I really starting to like the cleannes of SMD stuff. And alot of you guys are rejuvenating old classics using SMD.
I made some SMD stuff (all on home etched boards).
Most of you created your own PCB layout for SMD.
We want to see them.
And let us know if some of those PCBs are for sale. ;D
Have you seen this site? It was posted in another thread originally.http://milas.spb.ru/~kmg/index_en.html (http://milas.spb.ru/~kmg/index_en.html). It mixes smd with standard components.
I built the V30 speaker emulator and I really like the way the whole thing is mounted on the socket.
Moving ever more towards SMD. still hybrid though. through hole resistors and caps are still way way faster for me than SMD. maybe that'll change if/when I start using reflow ovens, but untill then, not so much.
I've sort of given myself the "rule" that I won't home-etch SMD boards that are meant to be durable. Just SMD adapters or something. I don't like the idea of cheap pads lifting when there isn't a hole to anchor something down. Also, a solder mask makes SMD work about a thousand times easier when working with 1mm pitch stuff or finer.
(http://nearworlds.org/stuff/he5_populated.jpg)
(http://nearworlds.org/stuff/pic32_dev_board_v1.jpg)
(http://nearworlds.org/stuff/antinautilus_v2proto.jpg)
Nice looking stuff Etienne.
But I'd like so set a new rule for this thread.
When you post stuff......you need to tell us what it actually is! ;D
first one is my programable tremolo :)
second one is a dev board I made for looping/sampling tests ;D
third one is the second version of my 1000th page contest entry, the granular glitcher thing :icon_redface:
More SMD through hole hybrid stuff
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48986&g2_serialNumber=2)
Spin FV-1 multiFX board, with PC programming interface on the breadboard.
*drools a little*
I made a Chipdrive OD on homemade SMD stripboard that I use for breadboard (it now has the 4 leads bent to space to .1")
(http://imageshack.us/a/img37/8962/sam0050.gif)
;D
SMD strip boards! Nifty idea.
I messed up on a board design, and used a 0.8mm pitch footprint on a 0.5mm pitch part!!!
So, instead of trying to redo the whole board ($55 or so), I designed a little adapter to go between the two. I had to reflow solder it to the original board. I didn't have any solder paste (I had some, but it had gone off, since it was about 18 months old), so I just used a bit of solder and my flux pen.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8736057203_2e37d4654e_z.jpg) (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8736057203_067ab596b9_o.jpg)
Oh NO!!!!!!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8736058443_355b1beaf2_z.jpg) (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8736058443_c0d98e1650_o.jpg)
The adapter on the left is the back side, which matched the 0.8mm pitch footprint on the board. The one on the right is the top side, and my first (failed) attempt to solder on the adapter. Fortunately, I have three of these boards and only need one, really.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8737179570_d9f56a440d_z.jpg) (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8737179570_a90ca153b3_o.jpg)
The second (successful!) attempt at reflowing the adapter to the board. I haven't tested all the pins yet, but the 30-40 I have checked are right!!!! Yeah!!!
Gabriel
Amazing!!
What size the board is?
Quote from: SISKO on May 13, 2013, 11:08:58 PM
Amazing!!
What size the board is?
Which one, the big one or the little one? The big one is about 3.75 inches x 2.75 inches (about 100mmX70mm, give or take). The little one is about 3/4 of an inch on a side (about 20mm). I've redesigned the big board so it is right, so if I ever get around to actually programing it I'll get it made right before I box it up, but it saved me some money for right now! I did all the via stitching on the ground plane (well, it's not actually connected to anything - I guess it's more of a heat transfer plane) to try and help with the thermal conductivity. I have no idea if that actually helped or not, but once I got it lined up more or less right, it just kind of popped itself into the right place.
Gabriel
The big one, sorry.
It beautiful!
Seems like a development board (kind of) isn it?
Well, yes, but for a particular project. Lots of switches and LEDs on a yet to be manufactured board, but that's fine as I have an amp to finish before I can start programming it.
Gabriel
My first SMD project :) I didn't realize how sloppy it looked till I took high def pictures :icon_redface: Big thanks to Pickdropper for the awesome pcb. It's the Blue Delay
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08442_zps8d537569.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08443_zpsa920b7a4.jpg)
And the unfinished enclosure. Radioshack just started selling these cool little jewels so I decided to try one.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08444_zpse1916cf5.jpg)
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on June 01, 2013, 01:26:10 AM
My first SMD project :) I didn't realize how sloppy it looked till I took high def pictures :icon_redface: Big thanks to Pickdropper for the awesome pcb. It's the Blue Delay
And the unfinished enclosure. Radioshack just started selling these cool little jewels so I decided to try one.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08444_zpse1916cf5.jpg)
Good job! Did you use solder paste?
Quote from: Jdansti on June 01, 2013, 01:56:35 AM
Good job! Did you use solder paste?
Nope. Just some SUPER thin solder and a fresh soldering tip.
I've put this one on a test bed now - a mock up of the project I can use while trying to program the µC - along with a whole bunch of switches and bi-color LEDs and such.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/8946369080_20f9f81335_z.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/8945744497_c4a76f0693_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5443/8946365734_8743ea15e1_z.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/8945740909_869b85742e_z.jpg)
The Flickr set (http://www.flickr.com/photos/9609103@N07/sets/72157633474861745/)
Gabriel
Excellent! Very good job! What are those 8 pin chip for, memory?
Quote from: SISKO on June 06, 2013, 05:26:49 PM
Excellent! Very good job! What are those 8 pin chip for, memory?
Yup, I2C flash.
Gabriel
:icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/SMDISADDICTIVE_zps25faa54a.jpg)
You show me this today after I get hands on some TAS5613, PLL1705s and PLL1707s...
Love it.
Good one. Looks like the LPB I made from Chromospheres kit.
I know it's not all smd but still...
This is my unfinished FV-1 infinite reverb project.
The board is almost fully populated now, but I still have to do some programming.
(http://content6-foto.inbox.lv/albums/h/humanx/pedal/-IGP2327.sized.jpg?1377116224)
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on August 19, 2013, 02:08:22 AM
:icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/SMDISADDICTIVE_zps25faa54a.jpg)
Aaaand I've got a new desktop image, hope that's ok?
:icon_lol: no problem :icon_lol:
The guys at work found it funny too.
By the way; am I the only one, who normally is a righty when soldering, but switches to lefty from time to time when doing SMD? (pincer in right, iron i left)
Blackout Musket Fuzz clone
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eo8z_BCir4c/UMmRhzAmHOI/AAAAAAAAAjE/aL5UzKDMjC4/w925-h694-no/2012-12-11+11.29.25.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ks930NWKs54/UNLnJn6F0LI/AAAAAAAAAok/ZZK-LuxHDc8/w925-h694-no/2012-12-20+12.17.27.jpg)
Polyphonic octaver (FV-1 chip based). 2 layer PCB
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XyQOE8qBnuw/Ug3365ZxsoI/AAAAAAAABLY/u0EPwsvfwZM/w925-h694-no/P6220364.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x871vB_rxTo/UbGI_0Z0MhI/AAAAAAAABSw/xKXIx1rQ2mc/w925-h694-no/2013-06-07+10.11.12.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g7MA09ZBA3A/UcVzGHg3LII/AAAAAAAABDI/vm4RIE0TpzY/w925-h694-no/P6220360.JPG)
Zerg distortion (Suhr Riot clone). 2 layer PCB
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BTZsccX_09Q/UdMFQ6BunOI/AAAAAAAABJA/XsoKydWNIR8/w925-h694-no/P7020367.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P0aaLbag8a4/Ug34GR7jyVI/AAAAAAAABLg/UBz9x3YkdVo/w925-h694-no/2013-07-02+10.33.34.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UTUTdwYY-rg/UdMFPUzBfLI/AAAAAAAABIw/nEwaxqn7cV8/w925-h694-no/P7020368.JPG)
Memory chains analog delay with tap tempo (2x mn3205) http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=100541.0
(http://www.shift-line.com/research/MemoryChains/memory_chains2.JPG)
(http://www.shift-line.com/research/MemoryChains/memory_chains1.jpg)
(http://www.shift-line.com/research/MemoryChains/memory_chains3.JPG)
Alesis AL3101 based reverb. DIP ATTINY13 as encoder
(http://cs407921.vk.me/v407921436/8c77/m81HHKqmquw.jpg)
(http://cs10039.vk.me/u987436/96096001/z_2a97cc20.jpg)
Little Angel SMD
(http://cs408431.vk.me/v408431436/177e/gF2QHfH2vLo.jpg)
(http://cs408431.vk.me/v408431436/1787/iR7Hlf_2omI.jpg)
There are some more pics in the Pictures thread, but since this is the SMD thread. It's pretty straight forward, and kind of a boring project, but it is going to be REALLY useful.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/15142858970_9075fe8201_z.jpg) (https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/15142858970_f97062d7cb_o.jpg)
Gabriel
Probably smallest UniVibe clone in the World housed in 1590B Hammond enclosure.
Made in SMD technology with light bulb and all components and options as Shin-ei Uni-Vibe.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10409759_1561717527385587_7053436132518711960_n.jpg?oh=1cbabbd73142836d34fdb0dc50f214fd&oe=54C11DC0&__gda__=1422100479_d8d49e29e81a55eda7d24671302434b3)
(https://scontent-a-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1907846_1561718314052175_288368227731804453_n.jpg?oh=518053ee6047578d8b111c5ac515118e&oe=5492AE67)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1600978_1561718467385493_111632731996077326_n.jpg?oh=61f81e7b56dba1e9133c751b27fe827b&oe=54BEA3FD&__gda__=1421703872_a2de64e56e4b2ed66d230a8e6aa43d05)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10675624_1561718687385471_6720536609681373828_n.jpg?oh=5ff0923b8072a3265fec3038f29be97c&oe=5488D443&__gda__=1422731642_e39b7f55e7016b2c52649e2ee8f4b59a)
I just discovered this thread today, but I want in SO BAD.
Quote from: vigilante397 on September 24, 2014, 03:21:45 PM
I just discovered this thread today, but I want in SO BAD.
Watch these:
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/06/19/eevblog-180-soldering-tutorial-part-1-tools/
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/eevblog-183-soldering-tutorial-part-2/
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/18/eevblog-186-soldering-tutorial-part-3-surface-mount/
SMT is easy.
Gabriel
Here are a couple of teaser shots that I took a dev board we made for Function f(x) a while back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/pickdropper/Function%20fx%20teasers/DigEVB3_zps8a11e03a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pickdropper/media/Function%20fx%20teasers/DigEVB3_zps8a11e03a.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/pickdropper/Function%20fx%20teasers/DigEVB2_zpsd31779d6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pickdropper/media/Function%20fx%20teasers/DigEVB2_zpsd31779d6.jpg.html)
I work with SMD all day at work. Except for the three boards that insert into the mainboard, there is only one through hole part on the the entire unit. However, I have a microscope there that makes it like child's play. Won't dare try it at home without a scope though. Maybe some day I'll get one off the bay or something. I would like to see how small I could make some of these circuits.
Pickdropper, what do you call those interconnects labelled J6 and SW6 and such?
They would be so useful to me to build two PCBs on top of each other without using wires to connect them.
Those are standard receptacles for pin headers with 0.100" spacing. IIRC, these are Harwin, but they could be any of a number of manufacturers.
I'll let my brother know all the fun things the PICs are being used for. He recently got a job at Microchip. He's an EE. :)
This just means I have to get back into SMD soldering.
Quote from: G. Hoffman on September 25, 2014, 08:28:54 AM
Quote from: vigilante397 on September 24, 2014, 03:21:45 PM
I just discovered this thread today, but I want in SO BAD.
Watch these:
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/06/19/eevblog-180-soldering-tutorial-part-1-tools/
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/eevblog-183-soldering-tutorial-part-2/
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/18/eevblog-186-soldering-tutorial-part-3-surface-mount/
SMT is easy.
Gabriel
Alright, I just watched the videos and my interest has gone up. I'm convinced I can at least try it out. I have a brilliant set of tweezers and a Weller WESD51 soldering station with a couple different tips. Can anyone recommend a basic project for me to get my hand dirty with SMT? Low parts count would be preferable as I don't have any SMT parts on hand and would be ordering everything.
Quote from: vigilante397 on September 26, 2014, 11:22:38 PM
Alright, I just watched the videos and my interest has gone up. I'm convinced I can at least try it out. I have a brilliant set of tweezers and a Weller WESD51 soldering station with a couple different tips. Can anyone recommend a basic project for me to get my hand dirty with SMT? Low parts count would be preferable as I don't have any SMT parts on hand and would be ordering everything.
Well, Adafruit, Jameco, and Sparkfun all have at least a couple SMT kits - not really music related at all, but they would be a fine place to start, but to be honest I've always just designed my own projects, so pick anything simple you like, and go from there. I will say, getting your boards made is really helpful if you are going to be using surface mount parts, as the solder mask makes a big difference, particularly for drag soldering.
I (and judging from the color of the boards, many other people in this thread) use OSH Park (https://oshpark.com/) to make my boards; I use KiCAD (http://www.kicad-pcb.org/display/KICAD/KiCad+EDA+Software+Suite) to design them (I like that it is truly open source, and that it is very powerful for a free program, but it does have some quirks that can take some getting used to!); and most of my libraries come from THIS GUY (http://smisioto.no-ip.org/elettronica/kicad/kicad-en.htm), though I obviously have to design some custom parts from time to time, which is not too hard.
Gabriel
Quote from: apollomusicservice on September 23, 2014, 01:51:30 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10409759_1561717527385587_7053436132518711960_n.jpg?oh=1cbabbd73142836d34fdb0dc50f214fd&oe=54C11DC0&__gda__=1422100479_d8d49e29e81a55eda7d24671302434b3)
Outrageous!!
Quote from: vigilante397 on September 26, 2014, 11:22:38 PM
Quote from: G. Hoffman on September 25, 2014, 08:28:54 AM
Quote from: vigilante397 on September 24, 2014, 03:21:45 PM
I just discovered this thread today, but I want in SO BAD.
Watch these:
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/06/19/eevblog-180-soldering-tutorial-part-1-tools/
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/eevblog-183-soldering-tutorial-part-2/
http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/18/eevblog-186-soldering-tutorial-part-3-surface-mount/
SMT is easy.
Gabriel
Alright, I just watched the videos and my interest has gone up. I'm convinced I can at least try it out. I have a brilliant set of tweezers and a Weller WESD51 soldering station with a couple different tips. Can anyone recommend a basic project for me to get my hand dirty with SMT? Low parts count would be preferable as I don't have any SMT parts on hand and would be ordering everything.
If you want some SMT pedal boards, shoot me a PM. I have a few different boards.
Quote from: pickdropper on September 28, 2014, 06:26:41 PM
If you want some SMT pedal boards, shoot me a PM. I have a few different boards.
PM has been sent.
Low-Noise Buffer prototype
(http://www.muzique.com/news/images2/buffer3.jpg)
(http://www.muzique.com/news/images2/buffer6.jpg)
Complete info here: http://www.muzique.com/news/buffer-direct-box/
regards, Jack
Another quick project for my rig rebuild - a bit more time than the MIDI splitter above, but still probably less than 20 hours into it. It's a stereo transformer isolated audio splitter, based on one of R.G.'s transformer isolated AB/Y boxes (well, really, I just cut out the switch). It's going to be a while before I can do much with it, but in the limited amount of time I've spent playing with it so far it sounds pretty transparent, which is pretty impressive for a sub-$5 transformer!
I had to put the power supply caps and protection diodes on the back side of the board, which I don't like, but with those transformers it was really a struggle to get the size down to something reasonable.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3933/15538622926_1dc36c5a51_z.jpg) (https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3933/15538622926_66a330e08e_o.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15376693140_46689900ab_z.jpg) (https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15376693140_24060c5712_o.jpg)
Gabriel
Quote from: apollomusicservice on September 23, 2014, 01:51:30 PM
Probably smallest UniVibe clone in the World housed in 1590B Hammond enclosure.
Made in SMD technology with light bulb and all components and options as Shin-ei Uni-Vibe.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10409759_1561717527385587_7053436132518711960_n.jpg?oh=1cbabbd73142836d34fdb0dc50f214fd&oe=54C11DC0&__gda__=1422100479_d8d49e29e81a55eda7d24671302434b3)
masterful work!
My first adventure into real SMD, a bit of a learning exercise in PCB layout and SMD soldering. Things I've learned so far, soldering ICs is easier than I thought it would be, soldering passives is surprisingly tricky. Hopefully I'll have my technique sorted once the board is finished, as you can see at the moment I suck at it.
It's a development of this (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106741.0) with a Wolfson WM8510 audio codec to handle the ADC and DAC duties.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51813&g2_serialNumber=1)
Quote from: slacker on December 08, 2014, 04:05:45 PM
My first adventure into real SMD, a bit of a learning exercise in PCB layout and SMD soldering. Things I've learned so far, soldering ICs is easier than I thought it would be, soldering passives is surprisingly tricky. Hopefully I'll have my technique sorted once the board is finished, as you can see at the moment I suck at it.
It's a development of this (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106741.0) with a Wolfson WM8510 audio codec to handle the ADC and DAC duties.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51813&g2_serialNumber=1)
When soldering in the like caps and resistors I usually usually feed a little solder onto just one pad then with tweezers place the component in place while flowing the solder on that one pad, this allows the part to lay flat on the pcb. Then solder the other side.
Also for parts that are not sitting square on the pads use a flux pen to wet the part then with a hot air soldering iron reflow the part, it will actually bring itself into line. gas hot air irons like the Irodo SolderPro 120 are cheap and ideal for this.
When it comes to removing large IC's with 48 pins it so much easier than removing those pesky through hole IC's :)
You usually have to hold passives down when soldering or they will lift up when you remove the soldering iron. I prefer not to use leadless components because if you flex the board, they tend to pop off. Through hole as long as possible for me!
slacker, you're not the only one who prefers SMT chips to SMT passives. even 0.5mm pitch stuff.
the passives keep flipping around upside down, and my OCD won't let me solder them crooked or on their side even though they'll still work fine. ;D that's why I use tiny 1/8w through hole resistors with my SMT chips
get some electronics cleaner on that ;)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/15699949937_e62777887b_b.jpg)
Quote from: cloudscapes on December 08, 2014, 07:58:16 PM
slacker, you're not the only one who prefers SMT chips to SMT passives. even 0.5mm pitch stuff.
the passives keep flipping around upside down, and my OCD won't let me solder them crooked or on their side even though they'll still work fine. ;D that's why I use tiny 1/8w through hole resistors with my SMT chips
get some electronics cleaner on that ;)
Yeah I can't let myself solder in SMD resistors white side up, my next project has to be an SMD oven from a toaster oven so that I can do SMD better than hand soldering.
I've been bitten massively by the SMD bug. This one is a Cornish Buffer, in the smallest enclosure I've ever used!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/7eb687a8b6311d36c44667cbffae73ba.jpg)
This is a SHO clone
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/faca31207dbc537aacaa450993569eba.jpg)
Yellow Snow - circuit I used is a underdrive, however, I would describe it as a very transparent boost with a clipping option which makes it sound very hamonicy.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/9809842e80e618a3d4ce59630fe1008b.jpg)
A one knob fuzz. I found a schematic laying around with all my build docs, so I designed a board for it.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/8d4829609e2732d0b92d3cd15ed173fe.jpg)
Absolutely the best booster I've ever used.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/282f10ff56b0a5cdb57f35fb2e4758e1.jpg)
A LofoMofo. absolutely awesome pedal, can't recommend it enough!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/f8201e361450c70ca463b4bd76f4f105.jpg)
And a few more I'm still going through verifying.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/b123772e729cc589df323918b37e4037.jpg)
Quote from: slacker on December 08, 2014, 04:05:45 PM
My first adventure into real SMD, a bit of a learning exercise in PCB layout and SMD soldering. Things I've learned so far, soldering ICs is easier than I thought it would be, soldering passives is surprisingly tricky. Hopefully I'll have my technique sorted once the board is finished, as you can see at the moment I suck at it.
It's a development of this (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106741.0) with a Wolfson WM8510 audio codec to handle the ADC and DAC duties.
One tip for board layout - if you are using standard footprints, I always extend the long dimension of the pads so they are easier to solder. On SOIC parts, I've modded all my footprints so the pads are 0.150" - 0.075" long (which isn't quite as large as it sounds! the standard size is .125"). It gives you a bit more wiggle room on exactly where you place the part.
Gabriel
Solder paste + hot air station give a nice, almost "factory" results:
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/314_tr/forumpics/pcb_reflow_zpsec1c58cd.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/314_tr/forumpics/PowerMon_pcb_zpsb12e705f.jpg)
I got some lovely PCB's from Pickdropper a while back and they had just been sitting on my desk for a few months. But today I finally went nuts and blew $50 (it felt like a lot :P ) on SMD components, so in the next week or so when things start to show up I hope to really participate in this thread :)
a [two!] question of nomenclature: what would be the correctest name for a surface mount on perf big muff? perhaps one of the russians, because of the "fat, thunderous bottom end" (and the chance of vodka and trololo .....)
[and can anyone tell why those that are are called "civil war"?]
Quote from: duck_arse on January 14, 2015, 08:37:52 AM
[and can anyone tell why those that are are called "civil war"?]
Internet rumor says:
QuoteThe nickname "Civil War" came from the fact that the early 90's Sovtek Big Muffs were primarily in blue and grey enclosures.
Quoteit's actually because of the colour scheme on the originals. It was blue and gray, like the uniforms of the opposing sides in our own civil war.
ymmv, imho, my .02 etc etc.....
(http://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11037031_10206880968878838_2868061238716556903_n.jpg?oh=4ce387a387acbe25fa0db0bb0790b4e1&oe=56A42AD8)
Here's two 1 to 2 GHZ amps in the same package I designed for the Phased Array Feed at work, most of it is 0603 stuff, but I cheated and used a microscope and conductive epoxy, I only soldered the power supply connector.
The transistors are unpackaged SiGe that I wire bonded by hand.
^
I am surprised conductive epoxy would provide a good enough contact with low enough resistance to be usable for an RF amplifier. It certainly does overcome the problems of excessive soldering heat.
Quote from: amptramp on October 02, 2015, 01:11:18 PM
^
I am surprised conductive epoxy would provide a good enough contact with low enough resistance to be usable for an RF amplifier. It certainly does overcome the problems of excessive soldering heat.
It's actually quite great stuff =84]http://www.epotek.com/site/component/products/productdetail.html?cid[0]=84 (http://www.epotek.com/site/component/products/productdetail.html?cid%5B0)
It's really the only reliable way to assemble cryogenic chip and wire or MMIC components, a lot of components we use are only about 10 mils (the thousandth on an inch mil) square. Because of it's relatively low frequency (we consider anything with a coax input low frequency, above that is waveguide) I could get away with a PCB design, but usually we glue components straight down to a gold plated chassis or CuFlon substrate with epoxy and wire bond the components. I've built amps up to 120 GHz, above that the SIS Mixer guys come in. Recently I've mostly been prototyping either low frequency (1-2 GHz) Phased Array Feed stuff, new ways of phase stable local oscillator distribution, some photonics stuff, and some 60-90 GHz amps. When I first started 8 years ago I was just in low noise amp production for the VLA in New Mexico, but now I'm really enjoying R&D. You'd be surprised how much my audio experience comes into play.
A lot of information about my lab is here: https://science.nrao.edu/facilities/cdl (https://science.nrao.edu/facilities/cdl)
Just wondering if this conductive epoxy will work as well with copper PCBs? It might open up a whole new way of building for those of us still in through-hole land.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on October 02, 2015, 02:16:02 PM
Just wondering if this conductive epoxy will work as well with copper PCBs? It might open up a whole new way of building for those of us still in through-hole land.
The stuff is great and easy to work with once you get used to dabbing it on with a pin vice (I have needles bent, flattened, and sharpened all sorts of ways to get down into RF channels, but for regular PCB work a sewing needle or syringe would be just fine, you can even stencil it on for big operations) I find it's a lot easier to epoxy some things because you can put the put the epoxy on the pad and drop the components in with tweezers and make sure it's settled in. For me it's better than tweezers in one hand, soldering iron in the other.
Keep in mind, there is no cleaning action of the flux so whatever you're working on needs to be very clean, the Enepig board in the picture doesn't oxidize and takes solder, epoxy, gold wire, and aluminum wire equally as well which makes it great to work on. When I use it on a copper board I make sure it's nice and shiny, then I keep a ceramic IC next to my microscope and I scrub all the tinned components on it before I place them, gold plated stuff is fine the way it is.
The other part to remember is that it shears pretty easy, if you have a nice stable substrate it will cool down to 15 Kelvin hundreds of times, no problem, but if you are going to flex or bend it at all it will break which is why my power connector is soldered and then glued with non-conductive epoxy.
And lastly, you need an oven or hot plate to cure it properly, otherwise you will have to wait a week for it to cure at room temperature, generally I do 20 minutes at 120C.
Thank you,very informative ;D
I think this is something worth pursuing.
Not a guitar pedal, but it's definitely SMT:
(http://alexanderbrevig.github.io/assets/images/wice_rev1_assy.png)
Several 0402 parts, I'll think twice before using that for hand assembly again.
Very nicely soldered.
I'm surprised you found the 0402 resistors more difficult than the higher pin count chips.
0402s are fairly easy to get used to. 0201s on the other hand are really really small. I haven't tried 01005s yet.
Quote from: alexanderbrevig on October 20, 2015, 08:24:57 AM
Not a guitar pedal, but it's definitely SMT:
(http://alexanderbrevig.github.io/assets/images/wice_rev1_assy.png)
Several 0402 parts, I'll think twice before using that for hand assembly again.
Great job on the hand soldering, I agree that I find it easier to solder the IC's over the ting resistors. Tack one corner then the opposite and the rest of the pins are easy.
Next time I get a PCB made with that much SMD though I think it worth while getting a solder paste stencil included.
Nice job. :)
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 31, 2015, 06:13:22 PM
Next time I get a PCB made with that much SMD though I think it worth while getting a solder paste stencil included.
I think I'm weird. I actually find it more difficult to apply solder paste evenly (with or without a stencil) than to solder by hand. Reflowing does save a good chunk of time, however.
Obviously, if there are BGAs or QFNs or components with thermal pads, then hand soldering isn't an option.
ONLY for rough-hacking, slash-and-burn clots like me, or if you get depressed by winter:
shown is not really an smd build, but for build helping. it's my new heat-soaker, boasting a MASSIVE 1.2 WATTS OF PURE ... erm .... warmth. it consists of a 7805 reg and 47R load resistor (shoulda used that 10R) mounted under an intel-style pentium heatsink, all clamped up in a lump of wood.
(http://imgur.com/9Ldve8T.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/Hyyhcvk.jpg)
turn it over and you see how it [is intended to] works. double sided tape yr board to the black, tastefully arrange yr parts about the place, place another heatsink on top and do something else for 20 minutes. when you come back, the parts and board have some preheat/soak to them, so you spend less iron-time soldering them.
(http://imgur.com/rBwaycB.jpg)
it even has some bishops graphics taping-tape around the edges to stop runaways. it does work/warm, but is yet to be used in anger. it could have temp-sense/comparator/mosfet controller added (greaser_au - different, but same principle), but switching it off if it gets too hot will work as well.
[edit :] oops.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/elements%20pcb_zpsl2iahhud.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/elements%20pcb_zpsl2iahhud.jpg.html)
Mutable Instruments Elements. Another great Olivier Gilette design!
The biggest issue I had was getting the firmware to upload, until I realised that the TX and RX wires were crossed.
This conductive epoxy is pricey , any preference between the silver or carbon epoxy . http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/adhesives-glues/conductive-adhesives//?redirect-relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E4C446573635461786F6E6F6D794272616E645365617263685465726D325F74656D70266C753D656E266D6D3D6D617463687061727469616C6D617826706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D3F5C707B5A737D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D31313326736E3D592673723D52656469726563742673743D4B4559574F52445F4D554C54495F414C5048415F414E445F4D554C54495F414C5048415F4E554D455249432673633D592677633D4E4F4E45267573743D636F6E647563746976652065706F7879267374613D636F6E647563746976652065706F787926&r=f#applied-dimensions=4294429411&sra=oss
I've decided I refuse to let this thread die :P
This is just a prototype (please excuse the mess, it's been hacked up and re-soldered a bit), but it's my first stompbox-related design using SMD. It's a programmable (4/8/16 ohm) dummy load with a speaker simulator on the end because I want to crank my amp in the middle of the night without waking up the kids 8) The dummy load is rated for 64W, but gets a little warm :P Still a prototype, so I'm working on kicking it to 100W, adding a balanced headphone out, and adding a speaker passthrough so you can use a cab and the emulator at the same time if you want. It's going to be neat 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/pBw0RkT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GbCnQ9u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/awILoCf.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/gcXcPdc.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/YmTtAe3.jpg)
Vigilante, how does that PCB sink 64W of heat? Or is there an offboard thing I'm missing?
Quote from: alanp on February 14, 2018, 02:43:56 AM
Vigilante, how does that PCB sink 64W of heat?
The twelve larger package (2512) resistors around the switch are power resistors. They're rated for 16W each and I have four in parallel for each load. In open air these do fine without a heatsink, but I'm not about to throw it in a box like this :P I still have some bugs to work out on this prototype, but the final version will definitely have a heatsink.
THOSE are rated for 16W? Now that's impressive.
Quote from: mth5044 on February 14, 2018, 10:49:11 AM
THOSE are rated for 16W? Now that's impressive.
I know right?!?! I had used some for a project at work that required them to operate up to 320 degrees Fahrenheit :icon_eek: and was impressed by how well they performed so I decided to try them out as a dummy load and they've been doing great. Most of my testing has been with an 18W amp, but I've tried them up to 45W. They get very warm, but no failures so far.
Quote from: mth5044 on February 14, 2018, 10:49:11 AM
THOSE are rated for 16W? Now that's impressive.
+1! What are they made of?
At full power, wouldn't they be a bit like a hot soldering iron tip? :icon_confused:
Quote from: EBK on February 14, 2018, 10:56:47 PM
At full power, wouldn't they be a bit like a hot soldering iron tip? :icon_confused:
They don't quite get that hot :P I was doing some testing with them at work today and I had a bunch in parallel inside a box taking 14W each, and they got to 170 celsius (338 in freedom units), not quite enough to melt solder, but definitely enough to take off your fingerprints! :icon_eek:
Quote from: thermionix on February 14, 2018, 07:17:26 PM
What are they made of?
I think they're metal film. They're from Susumu, the CPA series: http://www.susumu.co.jp/common/pdf/CPA.pdf?v=20170706 They're available at Mouser and Digikey, but at about $3 per resistor they're the most expensive thing on that board. Part of why I want to go to 100W wire-wound resistors is so just my dummy load alone doesn't cost me $36 :P
Quotesome testing with them at work today
Oh I see, alien technology recovered from a crash site.
Quoteenough to take off your fingerprints
DB Cooper style. 8) (<--actually DB Cooper)
QuoteI think they're metal film
Pretty crazy they seem no bigger than 1/4W metal films.
Quote from: vigilante397 on February 15, 2018, 12:00:04 AM
338 in freedom units
You caught me way off guard with that one! :icon_lol:
But luckily, I was not drinking coffee/water/beer when I read it.
Quote from: thermionix on February 15, 2018, 12:24:58 AM
DB Cooper style. 8) (<--actually DB Cooper)
Again, luckily not mid-sip. :icon_lol:
Quote from: thermionix on February 15, 2018, 12:24:58 AM
Oh I see, alien technology recovered from a crash site.
Something like that 8) One of my new favorite hobbies is to poke around online reading all the conspiracy theories related to where I work (NAWS China Lake). There's some doozies ::)
Quotehttp://Oh I see, alien technology recovered from a crash site
When they disassemble the little green boxes they always find some variant of a Tube Screamer circuit.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VeiUCfwstI0/maxresdefault.jpg
Quoteall the conspiracy theories related to where I work (NAWS China Lake)
I used to work at a "Secret Underground Submarine Base" :icon_eek: in the middle of the Australian outback, hundreds of miles from the ocean. I saw a guy on a UFO TV show refer to it as "Area 53" too. (There probably is an Area 53, a couple grid squares over from Area 51, which itself is only about 15 miles from Area 6).
Quote from: Rob Strand on February 15, 2018, 01:43:43 AM
Quotehttp://Oh I see, alien technology recovered from a crash site
When they disassemble the little green boxes they always find some variant of a Tube Screamer circuit.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VeiUCfwstI0/maxresdefault.jpg
Love this idea. 60-odd years of research on the Roswell UFO and the conclusion on the alien circuitry is "it's just 3.14 million stacked Big Muff pedals"
Finally got a mostly-functional version boxed up. The headphone amp sounded better on the breadboard, so I'll have to take a closer look at that. I haven't soldered the dummy load in as I wanted to test everything else first before I really commit to it. Plus I needed a dry fit to make sure I could get everything into a 1590BB :P So it now has a single input for guitar or amp, a 4/8/16 ohm dummy load that can be bypassed for either using an external cab or for plugging a guitar straight in (the DPDT switch), a gain control on the input of the speakersim, and a headphone level control. The three outputs are speaker out, line out, and headphone out. I don't have the dummy loads wired in yet, I just put them in for a dry fit and I'll solder them once I finish thoroughly testing everything.
The rectangle holes for the displays were milled with my CNC, but you can see the left one had some issues and the right one came out much cleaner. This picture was taken before the jacks were mounted.
(https://i.imgur.com/udoHCLR.jpg?1)
And this is how it looks right now with the 100W power resistors in place. It's a little tight in the 1590BB, but it fits :P
(https://i.imgur.com/1x4NcCu.jpg)
Maybe a few holes in the bottom plate under the power resistors?
Maybe. I also want to hook them up and do some tests with them to see how hot they get before making any decisions. I can thermal paste them and bolt them to the enclosure, but if they aren't even getting warm (my main amp is 15W and my biggest is 45) then I won't bother. We'll see ;D
Ventilation holes isn't a bad idea though. Easy to do and wouldn't really ruin anything. When I was still in the initial planning stages I even thought about a small fan to move the hot air out, but if I stick with the 1590BB then that will be pretty impossible :P
Continuing to refuse to let this thread die :P I was talking to a friend a while ago and we discussed how cool it would be to have a great sounding all-in-one practice/recording/lazy gigging solution that fit in a 1590B. So my gears started turning, and this is part of what I came up with. This is basically the Alembic F2B preamp with a 6N17B tube. I'm still auditioning cab sims but this one has a simple passive cab sim on it just because it was easy to throw on. The PSU is separate for now since this is just for prototyping, once I establish that all the individual sections work I'll throw them together on a single PCB. I will also be adding a headphone amp (386-based) and a DI transformer for balanced out, but one step at a time for now.
Etching job was a little sloppy (had some loose screws on my stepper motors) and the solder job was sloppy as well (ran out of small diameter solder), but it works and it sounds great ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/ajdYhk9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Zj19b5B.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/niaP73t.jpg)
P.S. It turns out you can get 250V SMD capacitors in an 0805 package, which saves quite a bit of space over higher voltage through-hole alternatives. Perfect for sub-mini tubes running at 200V or so.
Quote from: vigilante397 on July 11, 2018, 12:39:12 PM
but it works and it sounds great ;D
We need a proof... ;)
T.
Quote from: temol on July 11, 2018, 02:16:11 PM
We need a proof... ;)
I finished it at 2AM so I didn't get around to recording it :P I'll throw something together when I get home from work this evening. ;D
It seems like SMD would go well with a Korg NuTube. I know the Korg NuTube is a through-hole device, but you could mount in in a surface-mount socket.
But your version looks great!
Quote from: amptramp on July 11, 2018, 04:29:14 PM
It seems like SMD would go well with a Korg NuTube.
It's true, and one of my friends I showed this to mentioned the same thing, but the NuTube is a larger package than a Russian submini, less flexible for mounting, and waaaaayyyyy more expensive (~$3 for subminis vs. ~$50 for NuTube). :P
Shot a quick video of my preamp in action. Nothing quite like my sloppy guitar playing to distract you from my sloppy building 8)
This needs a project thread of its own, please. :)
Can you spot the error?
(https://s22.postimg.cc/9s7g7aue5/whoops.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9s7g7aue5/)
Quote from: bean on July 12, 2018, 10:52:19 AM
Can you spot the error?
Empty solder pad and blue cap (or something blue) soldered directly to R38?
T.
Quote from: vigilante397 on July 12, 2018, 12:21:48 AM
Shot a quick video of my preamp in action.
Nice! Any changes to the schematic with 6N17B tubes?
T.
Quote from: temol on July 12, 2018, 11:00:05 AM
Nice! Any changes to the schematic with 6N17B tubes?
T.
Nope. I played with values a bit on the breadboard but decided it sounded great with the same values as the original.
Quote from: bluebunny on July 12, 2018, 03:22:34 AM
This needs a project thread of its own, please. :)
Thanks :) I suppose I could do that. https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=120628.0
Cross-posting from pictures thread and the dedicated OmniBox thread, but this thing is finished. Nixie power supply feeding Alembic F-2B preamp with a 6N17B, simple cabsim v2, NE5532 headphone amp to 1/4" out, DI transformer to balanced XLR out. SMD except for the linear regulator and schottkey (didn't have any SMD yet), trimpot (SMD trimpots are weird), filter cap (10u/250V SMD cap? no thanks), and tube (duh).
(https://i.imgur.com/k27mRF6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2sYjAxq.jpg)
Soldered without my left thumb, using index and middle fingers for tweezers, please don't judge the soldering too harshly :P
(https://i.imgur.com/bCUbymp.jpg)
Diy modern DSP project in a 1590A enclosure ;)
(http://img.dimehead.de/thumbs/IMG_4726__1.jpg) (http://img.dimehead.de/IMG_4726__1.jpg)
Two tier PCB's main board and plugin top control PCB
(https://i.imgur.com/HOEudef.jpg)
Nice one, Mick. Very cute. :icon_cool: What is it?
Quote from: bluebunny on August 15, 2018, 08:44:01 AM
Nice one, Mick. Very cute. :icon_cool: What is it?
Cheers Mark, it is the Baby Blue Echo, Meazzi and Vox long tom tape echo emulations.
Quote from: Ice-9 on August 15, 2018, 08:58:45 AM
Quote from: bluebunny on August 15, 2018, 08:44:01 AM
Nice one, Mick. Very cute. :icon_cool: What is it?
Cheers Mark, it is the Baby Blue Echo, Meazzi and Vox long tom tape echo emulations.
That's awesome work!
Is R35 missing on purpose? (Just noticed C29 also)
Quote from: italianguy63 on August 15, 2018, 09:26:43 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on August 15, 2018, 08:58:45 AM
Quote from: bluebunny on August 15, 2018, 08:44:01 AM
Nice one, Mick. Very cute. :icon_cool: What is it?
Cheers Mark, it is the Baby Blue Echo, Meazzi and Vox long tom tape echo emulations.
That's awesome work!
Is R35 missing on purpose? (Just noticed C29 also)
Yeah both not fitted, R35 was not used in the circuit and C29 is part of the bypass LED for help with bypass pop but not needed anyway and I had none left for now.
Just wanted to be sure! After you box it up and it doesn't work you want to die!!
;)
MC
Do you guys make arduino based pedals as well? Or only PIC?
Quote from: MJ_Sound_Cubed on September 07, 2018, 03:52:57 PM
Do you guys make arduino based pedals as well? Or only PIC?
Both
Are these circuits shared somewhere? Or the PCBs purchasable somewhere? ;)
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 07, 2018, 04:11:16 PM
Quote from: MJ_Sound_Cubed on September 07, 2018, 03:52:57 PM
Do you guys make arduino based pedals as well? Or only PIC?
Both
And then some. The last two posted were an Arm chip and an FV-1, not either PIC or AVR.
I decided it's been way too long since somebody posted in this thread, so here's what I've been working on recently:
Bipolar power supply: I decided I was tired of playing with Tubescreamer variants so I'm going to play with a Providence Stampede SOV-2 and see where that takes me. I liked their idea of bipolar ±15V rails, but I didn't like how they got it (9V in -> 7805 down to 5V -> expensive module for bipolar outputs) so I designed my own supply that goes straight from 9V to ±15V with a cheap yet efficient switcher. I spaced the pins so it can drop straight onto the breadboard and I will be playing with it eventually when I have some time ::)
(https://i.imgur.com/dOiVLRh.jpg)
Tidepool: It's a Shoot the Moon tremolo. That's it. The original version that's out on the internet fit in a 1590B just fine with through-hole components, but 1) I wanted board-mounted pots and 2) SMD is neat.
(https://i.imgur.com/5AqvfBl.jpg)
BrontoChorus: EHX Small Clone with board-mounted pots and form-factored for a 1590B. I have a bunch of V3207, but I forgot to swap to positive rails so it has to take MN3007 :P
(https://i.imgur.com/HP0BQZY.jpg)
Black Mirror: I'm more proud if this than I am of pretty much anything so far, even though it's still in the testing stage. This is a Deluxe Memory man with board mounted pots and form-factored for a 1590B. Think that's pretty cool? Check this out: It takes a standard +9V input but runs internally at -15V, but keeping a neutral ground so it can still play nice daisy-chained. Again I used a neat little switcher to go from +9V to -15V internally. Unfortunately the modern production V3205 (which I have loads of) only runs up to 11V max, so this also will require MN3005s. Oops. Also I didn't follow the routing guidelines for my switcher so it's not giving me the current output it's supposed to, so I'm dealing with that (which is why the upper-right corner is torn up). Anyway, seriously super proud of myself ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/T4g0Z3M.jpg)
Quote from: vigilante397 on December 27, 2018, 01:12:03 AM
Black Mirror: I'm more proud if this than I am of pretty much anything so far, even though it's still in the testing stage.
You should be proud of all of that!
One prototype I can show as all my customers I have are under NDA. for reference this board will fit in the palm of your hand.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vcZn8y24/IMG-448122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcZn8y24)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1V9qq19Y/IMG-4484-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1V9qq19Y)
welcome, mookyj - can you explain something I've often wondered at? those interlocking fingers tracks, and the ones that go back and forth in a long line - what do they do, printed inductors? timing delays? something else?
those would be matched nets such as LVDS pairs, differential pairs, data busses, etc. sometimes called accordions.
Quote from: duck_arse on December 28, 2018, 08:26:34 AM
those interlocking fingers tracks, and the ones that go back and forth in a long line - what do they do?
High-speed signals like the ones mookyj listed (often referred to as differential pairs) need to be length-matched for signal integrity, and accordion-ing is the typical way to tune the lengths of the traces.
So mookyj, are you going to tell us what it does? :D You don't often see a single board, especially a small one, with three FPGA's on it! :icon_eek:
handles very high speed video from image sensor, processing, 80K frames a second, 138db Dynamic range , single electron noise reads
Quote from: Ice-9 on August 15, 2018, 08:09:24 AM
Two tier PCB's main board and plugin top control PCB
(https://i.imgur.com/HOEudef.jpg)
looking good, interesting why do you use 3x multiturn trims and one usual?
Little evolution of Twin/Olympic preamps
(https://pp.userapi.com/c849528/v849528784/caa79/lckVeW2LTjI.jpg) (http://www.shift-line.com)
(https://pp.userapi.com/c830400/v830400803/1e4200/yS0Z8wVwdjs.jpg) (http://www.shift-line.com)
Quote from: gena_p1 on January 15, 2019, 11:19:33 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on August 15, 2018, 08:09:24 AM
Two tier PCB's main board and plugin top control PCB
(https://i.imgur.com/HOEudef.jpg)
looking good, interesting why do you use 3x multiturn trims and one usual?
The 3 multiturn are for setting the JFET voltages and the one usual trimmer is an internal preamp drive control (next pcb revision will try and have this control on the outside of the enclosure as a pot if room can be made ), but it is really a set and forget control for drive into the tape saturation.
JFET voltages - as for non-matched jfets of phase-90? I don't understand it function in FV-1 schemes
Quote from: gena_p1 on January 15, 2019, 03:14:02 PM
JFET voltages - as for non-matched jfets of phase-90? I don't understand it function in FV-1 schemes
No not for matching phaser JFETS. There is a 4 stage jfet preamp which adds drive and harmonic content based on the valve preamp characteristics of the tape echo unit that the pedal emulates. The multiturn trimmers are for drain and source adjustments for accurate settings.
Wow, cool! I am your fan 8)
I keep forgetting to post my builds in here :P But this is one I've been wanting for a long time, a Deluxe Memory Man in a 1590B. Using an SMPS to take a +9V input and convert it to -15V so it's more pedalboard friendly, and running a pair of Xvive MN3005 for tasty analog tones 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ztj68Lc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MVYOx3q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MT5Pf6d.jpg)
Wow, now this is another level.
Even used BBDs in a 1590b box!
Quote from: thomasha on March 29, 2019, 03:00:01 PM
Wow, now this is another level.
Even used BBDs in a 1590b box!
Thanks ;D The BBDs weren't even the hard part ::)
SMD/through hole mash up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wRHJ82J2/board.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wRHJ82J2)
Quote from: vigilante397 on March 29, 2019, 11:23:13 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/MT5Pf6d.jpg)
Why are all the ICs sanded??
More likely to be a trick of the light -- with the wrong angle, lettering on ICs can be darn near invisible.
That is a really slick build by the way 8)
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on March 30, 2019, 02:57:48 PM
Why are all the ICs sanded??
Trick of the light, I promise they're not sanded. :P
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 15, 2019, 01:58:49 PM
Quote from: gena_p1 on January 15, 2019, 11:19:33 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on August 15, 2018, 08:09:24 AM
Two tier PCB's main board and plugin top control PCB
(https://i.imgur.com/HOEudef.jpg)
looking good, interesting why do you use 3x multiturn trims and one usual?
The 3 multiturn are for setting the JFET voltages and the one usual trimmer is an internal preamp drive control (next pcb revision will try and have this control on the outside of the enclosure as a pot if room can be made ), but it is really a set and forget control for drive into the tape saturation.
OH! Those cork compression washers are a smart idea on the jacks!!
MC
Quick smattering of some SMD stuff I've been doing lately:
Big Muff Pi (Ram's Head)
(https://i.imgur.com/csz7lzG.jpg)
Shoot the Moon Tremolo
(https://i.imgur.com/ulFga3i.jpg)
Small Clone Chorus
(https://i.imgur.com/YIN6RiM.jpg)
Lab Rat (ProCo Rat with the output buffer replaced with a 6N21B, plus a 6N21B clean boost)
(https://i.imgur.com/sxe4Tc2.jpg)
All that space left! could feed a family of five! Just kidding...
awesome builds as always, I see that you are using the really tiny parts.
I'm too afraid to go smd, last time I had to change a ceramic cap I lost it, soldered it to the wrong pad and so on... :icon_lol:
now if you want some fun what about that DMM in a 1590a? If you cut the board in half and stack it, it probably fits...
Quote from: thomasha on May 01, 2019, 04:42:28 PM
All that space left! could feed a family of five! Just kidding...
awesome builds as always, I see that you are using the really tiny parts.
I'm too afraid to go smd, last time I had to change a ceramic cap I lost it, soldered it to the wrong pad and so on... :icon_lol:
now if you want some fun what about that DMM in a 1590a? If you cut the board in half and stack it, it probably fits...
Thanks :) And yeah, these could all pretty well be 1590A builds (besides maybe the DMM), I just like 1590B aesthetically.
The smallest passives I use are 0805, which is considered pretty big in the SMD world :P I consider them to be the smallest you can reasonably hand-solder without a micropscope.
As for stacking with the DMM I feel like it's almost possible, but there's 5 pots, and they all have to go somewhere ::)
Nice builds, Nathan. Yeah, I was thinking "but 1590A??" too... If I can do four pots through-hole with sausage fingers and failing eyesight, then I'm sure you can do five. Didn't Russ or Darron or someone cram six pots into a 1590A? :icon_eek:
My SMD stuff!
(https://i.postimg.cc/QVjt67sB/indian-head-cover.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVjt67sB)
Very nice and tidy builds Nathan. 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: bluebunny on May 02, 2019, 03:03:51 AM
Didn't Russ or Darron or someone cram six pots into a 1590A? :icon_eek:
I know Dave (pickdropper) did 6 a while back, but he put 4 on top and 2 on the side. I'm concerned about 5 pots, an SPDT and 2 14-pin BBDs though :P I guess everything else is SMD though, I guess I'll think about it 8)
6 pots in a 1590a? soon.. ;)
Meanwhile...
Mostly SMD, mostly 0805, one 1206 (BB-74x), some THT. All pcbs are homemade, single sided (unfortunately).
Family shot. (left to right - ARM, Golden Pearl, 33, BB-74x)
(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/02/20190502221447-673f1c77.jpg)
Mr Black BB-74x.
(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/03/20190503104058-3693d585.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/03/20190503104058-418a0d6f.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/26/20190426000841-2ac725eb.jpg)
Goldfinger (Golden Pearl)
(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/02/20190502221449-e5be3a0a.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/02/20190502221448-a5c01b7c.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/02/20190502221444-2ac7462d.jpg)
Archaic Rock Machine
(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/24/20190424071531-36659580.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/24/20190424071532-1579c009.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/24/20190424220346-93dcba56.jpg)
Fortin33
(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/30/20190430005820-98c7889b.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/30/20190430005815-4803e0ca.jpg)(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/05/03/20190503102931-91ea0b82.jpg)
T.
Quote from: temol on May 03, 2019, 04:54:25 AM
All pcbs are homemade, single sided (unfortunately).
Family shot. (left to right - ARM, Golden Pearl, 33, BB-74x)
Awesome builds, Temol.
What method was used to leave solder pads free from solder mask? Transparent film print?
Thanks! :)
Yes, it's a transparent laser print film. I print @ 1200 dpi and stack two layers.
T.
(http://www.jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/04/24/20190424071531-36659580.jpg)
I look at your photos, temol, and am left wondering - back-nut power jacks, soldered to the unboxed board - is he squeezing the jack out thru the hole in the box, or is he squeezing the board in thru the dc jack hole ......?
I wish I could make my links that neat, let alone a whole board.
First option... I cannot imagine squeezing the board through 8mm hole... :)
T.
Quote from: temol on May 04, 2019, 02:56:00 AM
First option... I cannot imagine squeezing the board through 8mm hole... :)
T.
It's the 'Ship in a bottle' question. :icon_wink:
1590a stuff again. Jfet Krankenstein emulation. 0805 footprint.
(http://jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/06/22/20190622231050-eccb4f30.jpg) (http://jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/06/22/20190622231047-67e73e61.jpg)
(http://jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/06/22/20190622231049-c5135128.jpg)
T.
(http://alanp.info/images/k35.JPG)
Copy of the KORG35 device used in the early MS20 and MS10 filters. I've put this into a copy of the stock MS10 filter, sounds pretty good :)
The transistors were swine to solder.
Quote from: temol on June 23, 2019, 04:21:01 AM
1590a stuff again. Jfet Krankenstein emulation. 0805 footprint.
(http://jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/06/22/20190622231050-eccb4f30.jpg) (http://jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/06/22/20190622231047-67e73e61.jpg)
(http://jackrabbit.pl/foto/upload/2019/06/22/20190622231049-c5135128.jpg)
T.
I was wondering how you got the 3PDT to match the heights of the pots then I saw the bottom pic - very clever idea and well worth stealing ;-)
Phil.
I recently completed my first few SMD boards, i'm mostly using 0603 with some 0805 and 1206. I must say it was "easier" than i expected. This one was actually the first ever, not the cleanest but i'm getting better :
(https://i.ibb.co/VDv2v8k/IMG-20190911-214901.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1K989x4)
What's terrible with SMD devices is how everything appears really great to the naked eye but as you zoom in you start to see all the misaligned components and and such.
As someone with 'senior eyes' (one of which is not worth using really!) I have used mainly 1206 parts in my first SMD build though I did have to use a couple of 0805 as I couldn't get the values in 1206 size. I use an illuminated magnifier and check the joints afterwards with a hand lens.
I find it helps to tin one of the pads first then place the component using tweezers and reflow the solder, then solder the other pad - Thanks to Mick (Ice-9) for the advice and encouragement to take the plunge into SMD work. As those of you who have tried it have found, it's not as hard as you think it's going to be before you start!
If a 67 year old with one good eye can manage, then you young guns can do it :-)
This is my tenEQ project: a 10-band programmable graphic EQ. It can store up to 16 'patches' with the settings for the 10 frequency bands and the gain.
Thanks again to Mick for the great job he did on the enclosure - top class work buddy.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MftKz9c5/IMG-4563.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MftKz9c5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D47qzf6T/IMG-4577.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D47qzf6T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nQFWRLq/IMG-4565.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nQFWRLq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/svm9LWc4/IMG-4573.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svm9LWc4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fkbkjgLC/DSC09580.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkbkjgLC)
I've always felt like SMD and sub-mini tubes just belong together 8) These are a few that I finally decided are done after a number of revisions:
Particle Accelerator - Alembic F-2B preamp, I can't keep these around very long because hungry bassists have been devouring them
(https://i.imgur.com/9BN0LU4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wgOwtPH.jpg)
Black Eye - Soldano Supercharger GTO
(https://i.imgur.com/hJJ9465.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/olc2wG7.jpg)
Wrecking Ball - Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Preamp
(https://i.imgur.com/AjGKumQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n3IhySg.jpg)
What are the square black "101" things?
Quote from: willienillie on June 26, 2020, 03:36:36 PM
What are the square black "101" things?
100uH inductors, part of the SMPS for the high-voltage.
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 26, 2020, 04:04:59 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/AjGKumQ.jpg)
Fantastic work, Nathan, but knobs that close together would drive me crazy. I *need* bigger boxes just so I've got space to spread everything out enough. The others look ok though, even for me.
Quote from: ElectricDruid on June 27, 2020, 09:09:13 AM
Fantastic work, Nathan, but knobs that close together would drive me crazy. I *need* bigger boxes just so I've got space to spread everything out enough. The others look ok though, even for me.
Thanks :) That one is packed tight for sure. I originally did it in a 1590B kind of as a joke to see if it could be done, but people really like it :P Spreading things out is nice, but guitarists are packing so many things on their boards these days feedback has generally been that they like small footprints when they can get them. So from a design perspective I agree, but as a (now former) gigging musician I will put anything in as small a box as is possible :P