i'm about to build up a couple more pedals. nothing fancy, just a couple AB loop pedals. Anywho, it got me to thinking about how i could possibly use my 3d printer to make some cool pedals. The only thing i can really think of to print that would be custom are knobs. Anyone else have any ideas on what i could print to make for a cool pedal?
I have always wanted to make a 3D graphic plate.
Or some cheesy knobs.....
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08547_zps7741deb2.jpg)
you could make some rad slanted enclosures :icon_idea: :icon_twisted:
how about PCBs? I know soldering irons would melt the plastic if applied directly, but I guess it could be used for some kind of point-to-pint tying-component-legs-together sort of thing?
Optoisolator housings. You could design your own footprints. Just add LEDs and LDRs.
Quote from: jubal81 on December 25, 2013, 08:23:48 PM
Optoisolator housings. You could design your own footprints. Just add LEDs and LDRs.
You sir, are a genius.
Nice! What kinda 3d printer do ya got ? And what 3d modeling software do you use ? Do you use STL format models for this or can you use other formats as long as they are water tight ?
I've got a few idea's but they might be dependent on what your set up is and what materials you can extrude. Can you get or do you have a Clear filament to extrude ?
I would test out making add on parts to the enclosure for deco.
Here's an Idea 2 flexing muscle arms toward the top of the enclosure on the sides that wrap to the back and will hold onto the cables when their plugged in. Then Maybe do a 3d face for the top of the pedal so the knobs are the eyes led nose and maybe a plastic cap for the foot switch that looks like a mouth. If you do that the theme and names are countless!
Quote from: jubal81 on December 25, 2013, 08:23:48 PM
Optoisolator housings. You could design your own footprints. Just add LEDs and LDRs.
This sounds a little above my pedal skill level but it would be interesting if you need something like this. Once I knew what was needed, I could design and print something for you.
Quote from: Mustachio on December 26, 2013, 12:39:46 AM
Nice! What kinda 3d printer do ya got ? And what 3d modeling software do you use ? Do you use STL format models for this or can you use other formats as long as they are water tight ?
I have a solidoodle 3. It can print 8"x8"x8". More than enough for pedal work. I design with catia then the models are converted to stl format which is what the printer needs. The material is abs plastic and it can be purchased in clear.
Good idea on the arms for cable holders. It's ideas like that I'm looking for. I'm considering designing and printing a complete enclosure. I found some paint that has iron in it that I think could be used to shield it from noise. Just not sure what pedal to build.
How about some of those DOD pedal battery covers?
Arn C.
Quote from: Arn C. on December 26, 2013, 09:36:14 AM
How about some of those DOD pedal battery covers?
Arn C.
You know, I did think of that. I have two boss pedals that still have the covers but notice everyone seems to have lost or broken theirs. I may consider that. Maybe I could sell them for a few bucks on eBay.
pot labels... :icon_idea:
tone, vol, gain etc..just a washer that goes under the pot nut, with a tab for the label. different size for different knobs. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 26, 2013, 07:13:53 PM
pot labels... :icon_idea:
tone, vol, gain etc..just a washer that goes under the pot nut, with a tab for the label. different size for different knobs. ;)
Another great idea
i was just thinking if the text was cut out then the pedals colour would also highlight the text too.. 8)
: led diffusers/bezels..little cap to go on top of leds. ;)
Rob, that's a great idea! Black plastic for light colour enclosures, white for dark blue/black.
Could be a good little moneymaker for someone, perhaps. The part of the plastic washer that goes under the metal washer, just plastic, and the part that sticks out past the metal washer is cut out to form words, no inking needed.
Quote from: alanp on December 26, 2013, 07:47:17 PM
Rob, that's a great idea! Black plastic for light colour enclosures, white for dark blue/black.
Could be a good little moneymaker for someone, perhaps. The part of the plastic washer that goes under the metal washer, just plastic, and the part that sticks out past the metal washer is cut out to form words, no inking needed.
i'll design something up this weekend and see how it comes out.. stay tuned!
As for making money.. these printers are super slow. not really a money maker.
Perhaps not money making as a label but what if they were just used as stencils? 1 set could be used over and over. Place, mask, spray, remove. I could use a set like that - with 6.5 point text in bit dust font, -5 kerning.....mmm talking myself out of this one - perhaps just custom orders?
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on December 25, 2013, 10:41:08 PM
Quote from: jubal81 on December 25, 2013, 08:23:48 PM
Optoisolator housings. You could design your own footprints. Just add LEDs and LDRs.
You sir, are a genius.
I concur. Rather than any sort of sealed thing, though, I would suggest a two-part snap arrangement for relatively standard parts. That is, a sort of "saddle" for a specific size of LED and LDR. You seat them in their little saddle (which will provide a standardized distance and "posture"), and snap the other half of the assembly over it; not unlike the ferrite covers one can get for cables, like the one shown below. The entire thing can be made more light-tight as well as solid by a simple piece of heat-shrink.
(http://www.lessemf.com/images/a238-2.jpg)
similar to what the other DA said, but what about "input" and "output", or "axe" and "amp" to go under jacks? floating labels, no need for front panel work EVER AGAIN!
ok guys, post up some sketches with some basic dimensions and i'll get working on it
here's the general idea..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/potlabels.jpg)
Turns out my first pedal 3D print was for a spacer.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/DIY%20Tube%20Screamer/DIY%20Stompbox%20images/IMG_0378.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/DIY%20Tube%20Screamer/DIY%20Stompbox%20images/IMG_0377.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/DIY%20Tube%20Screamer/DIY%20Stompbox%20images/IMG_0376.jpg)
Come on john, that's too easy... ;D
sorted it though.. 8)
How about badges? Like a crest, to glue on to your builds. ..like the"supplier to the royal Court"badge on abu garcia fishing reels. ..
J
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 29, 2013, 06:18:03 AM
Come on john, that's too easy... ;D
sorted it though.. 8)
lol i know. i thought the same thing when i was trying to figure out what to use for a spacer.. then it was like DUH!
i'll have some 'really hard' stuff posted up tonight..
what if you printed an external dress-nut for that dc socket, w/ maybe "don't be stupid, it's center positive" engraved in, and then use the original supplied nut as the internal spacer/tightener?
Quote from: duck_arse on December 29, 2013, 08:59:41 AM
what if you printed an external dress-nut for that dc socket, w/ maybe "don't be stupid, it's center positive" engraved in, and then use the original supplied nut as the internal spacer/tightener?
great idea but the threads printed by these things are not very strong. So it would hold very well.
Video of some test prints
http://youtu.be/k4-RXnJRbsw
http://youtu.be/COY820FBeLY
it's been a while since i've tuned my printer and it looks like it needs it. As you can see the A and O's didn't print correctly. It may be better to try a two color print. But with a single color printer, that can be a pain in the behind..
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/IMG_0382.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/IMG_0383.jpg)
Those look great!
Cool...so you need a stencil font then, to get the tags for certain letters... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2013, 11:09:50 AM
Cool...so you need a stencil font then, to get the tags for certain letters... 8)
that's what i'm looking for, a stencil font. i'll have to google that. thanks
dafont.com is pretty good.
ok. did two more prints with a different font and different thickness.
The top row looks like the font that will work out best.
Also, the top row is 1mm thick. the bottom row is 2mm thick.
I think i can get the prints just a little better after i adjust the temps a little.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/7728C0FB-3701-4C6C-B435-5021697F9D21.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa112/t2436jf/7728C0FB-3701-4C6C-B435-5021697F9D21.jpg)
whats the rotation angle of the pots we use? I could also print these out with graduation marks from min to max. just need to know the total angle.
that's asking for trouble. there would be 3 different angles of rotation in my pot drawer. you would need to specify "these labels suit 270 degree rotation pots", and "... 300 degree ..." then we can all look up the manuf data for what is in our drawers/hands.
happy new stuff.
yes, old thread, but it seems the right place.
one of you 3d printer people - would it be possible to print a spline-shaft pot despliner? I've been tryiing, again, to fit a set-screw knob to a splined pot, with assorted adaptors trying to stop the knob nosing (it leans), and haven't yet come up with a satisfactory solution. solution? I can't even understand the mechanics of the problem.
so, the despliner - it would have a central "stick" to fill the shaft-split, and inverse splines to fill the splines, and the top/capping-end would be flat and squared off outer, and would fill the shaft-end bevel. the outer diameter would obviously be clearance for a set-screw knob.
possible? printable? worth thinking about?
I've been 3D printing enclosures to test drill locations. Hammond's website has the 3D files for all of their boxes that you can edit in 123D then spit out the stl for printing.
Quote from: duck_arse on October 26, 2016, 10:22:50 AM
I've been tryiing, again, to fit a set-screw knob to a splined pot, with assorted adaptors trying to stop the knob nosing (it leans), and haven't yet come up with a satisfactory solution. solution?
How about this ?
(http://blog.philadelphialuthiertools.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Correct-position-for-set-screw-on-split-shaft.jpg)
Quote from: duck_arse on October 26, 2016, 10:22:50 AM
yes, old thread, but it seems the right place.
one of you 3d printer people - would it be possible to print a spline-shaft pot despliner? I've been tryiing, again, to fit a set-screw knob to a splined pot, with assorted adaptors trying to stop the knob nosing (it leans), and haven't yet come up with a satisfactory solution. solution? I can't even understand the mechanics of the problem.
so, the despliner - it would have a central "stick" to fill the shaft-split, and inverse splines to fill the splines, and the top/capping-end would be flat and squared off outer, and would fill the shaft-end bevel. the outer diameter would obviously be clearance for a set-screw knob.
possible? printable? worth thinking about?
"Maybe" but probably not, there may not be enough room unless the hole for the knob is a good amount bigger than the splined shaft. I do use my 3D printer for a few pedal build things...
1. Various jigs/spacers for setting/gluing.
2. Jack isolation inserts.
3. A PCB holder that slides in and holds the PCB which means I no longer have to JB weld standoffs in.
I tried printing knobs for awhile but the fit and finish at that small tolerance gets a little iffy - I may have to revisit actually.
Beyond pedals, my 3D printer is one of the best purchases I have ever made; they are great for printing items that don't exist or you don't have. :)
Made this on the 3D printer a while back, a replacement Mu-Tron knob, that have gone the way of the Dodo.
(https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=53907&g2_serialNumber=2)
3D file can be downloaded at Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747120), if you just happen to have a Mu-Tron with a missing knob?
Knobs would be nice to make on a resin/SLA printer, because they are perfect at small, detailed objects. I did some experimenting with some other knobs and could model in a slot underneath for a metal nut, that a set screw can tighten in, so you aren't just threading through the plastic.
nice knob print, this could benefit a lot from some acetone vapor smoothing, to take out the grainy-ness and match it better with he smooth finish of the originals.
but a cool print nonetheless!!
cheers, Iain
I've been messing around with printing faceplates for pedals.
Had some promising results so far.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fk3TMQ8B/IMG-3705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fk3TMQ8B)
I really dig those little control labels
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDNKKwHX/58-AEF4-E6-4854-43-B0-83-C4-596416342229.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDNKKwHX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6ybp1ktD/D997-A12-A-0515-4-ED6-AF08-8-AE95-BE7-E045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6ybp1ktD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6yYDys9H/5-E0-CD82-D-7585-45-E1-9-E77-A620-C5-B76-B04.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yYDys9H)
Resin print of the same mutron knob, it even did the splined shaft part.
You could print up Nigel Tufnel knobs that go to eleven.
For occasions where you need a reverse log taper pot and they are difficult to get in the value and form factor you want, print up a set of two spur gears to reverse the rotation of the knob. You can hide this under the surface of the effect or put it prominently on the front for a steampunk pedal effect.
Such a gear could be used to turn volume down when the gain goes up
As my business card says, " Your imagination is not the limit ! "
PS, what do we do ? Make DIY Effects, ya ! Lots of em !
Quote from: Phend on September 14, 2022, 05:39:58 PM
As my business card says, " Your imagination is not the limit ! "
PS, what do we do ? Make DIY Effects, ya ! Lots of em !
Gene Roddenberry thought TV would last until 2040? Bless his heart...
You could make the most difficult part of a wah pedal - the rack and pinion and the slider that keeps them meshed with each other. Since you can control the design, you could make it an internal or external spur gear so you have a pedal and gear as a single unit without the pivot you need for a rack.