Hi
My electric mistress project is finished.
Dit put it in a real small MXR P90 like box.
The problem, even in bypass (true bypass that is)
at high volumes the clicknoise is coming through.
I think it has to do with were the in and output leads are lyign over.
So wire shielded at one point should fix this.
The problem is: the build is so tight that the shielded wire has to be thin. I was thinkung using the wire of an old earplug.
Does anybody know if very thin wire has any influence on the sound quality
Thnaks
My gut sense is that the thinner the wire (i.e., the greater the series resistance it provides), the greater the impact of any cable capacitance it might have. Sometimes that matters and sometimes it doesn't.
In general, earplug wire is pretty crappy. What I'd recommend more than that is the cable that usually accompanies CD-to-Soundcard connectors. It often has two conductors and a shield, and what strikes me as much sturdier insulation than what is found on the kind of earphones that break down easily. Even better, if you are making your own board, you can even use headers to simply plug the pot into the board and unplug when and if you want to remove the board, using the connectors at each end of the cable.
Steve Daniels at Small Bear recently sent me some spools of "pre-bonded" wire, and I have to say I've been very impressed with it. An absolute breeze to solder, strip, turn corners, twist together, and all those other things you need wire to do in a small chassis. Until recently I had been using some very nice 22awg stranded wire but the insulation is so bloody thick that the short lengths going to pots seem to actually be stressing the solder lugs (remember, shorter = stiffer). Good wire but a pain in the neck in some ways.
Thanks for the tip
I'll check out some of the CD audio wires.
I got some nice shielded cable lying around. But because of the tight build it simple won't fit in.