Since I wanted to give Flangers a try and there isn't yet a layout for the 9V Mistress I decided to do one.
Basically, I just traced the original layout from Berdarddur's pics as I wanted to be as sure as possible to get it working (I read a lot about problems with clock noise...etc).
Although I believe that everything is fine I still have to check it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/markusw/9VMistresstest1_2.jpg)
Some Qs and comments:
* Is it a good idea to have the gnd connections as a "ground plane" ??
* from Bernard's pics it seems that the two 130k resistors at the input were replaced with a 5.6k and a 1M (maybe 2M) to vref. Actually there was another 5.6k added from the input jack to the input cap. I suppose this is the mod performed by EH on Bernard's unit to avoid (reduce) the volume drop of the unit.
Bernard: it would be great if you could check if the input cap is still 39n as in the schem.
* From the pics it also seems as if the 200 ohm resistor between gnd and ps gnd is not used. Instead ps gnd is connected directly gnd.
* Also it seems that there is an additional electrolytic added directly to the ps jack. The two other ps electrolytics seem to be quite large (and of the same size). Maybe they were changed to larger values. At least the 100µ seems to have the same value as the 220µ (Bernard?)
* The funny thing is that I can't find the output wire although I really studied the pics very carefully. The pad that is connected to the 510R, the 8k2 and the 13k is not connected to any wire. Any ideas??
* Do you think it's OK to replace the 82n near the output with a 100n???
* In the schem by Francisco a 1M-C (this is reverse log??) is indicated for Rate, In the deluxe version at ggg a 1M log. Considering that the LFO section is more or less the same: which one gives the better response?? OK, I think I solved this one ;)
* Edit: one more: Would it make sense to add two resistors for gain control to the input buffer stage (to compensate for the volume drop when in true bypass??)
Thanks to Francisco, Stephen and Bernard for posting the schems and pics, btw!!
Comments on how to improve the layout are highly appreciated!
Once I've checked everything I'll post the complete stuff.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Markus
Cool!
Thanks for putting that together. I hopes everything checks out okay.
B.
Nice!
I'll keep an eye on this post...
Quote from: psst on April 25, 2006, 04:02:33 AM
Nice!
I'll keep an eye on this post...
Your comments on this unit were a reason too to give it a try :)
Berdardduur: could you do me a big favour and check on your unit were the output wire is connected to. I suppose this should be possible without removing the PCB.
Thanks a lot in advance!!!
Markus
I'll check in a while!
QuoteWould it make sense to add two resistors for gain control to the input buffer stage (to compensate for the volume drop when in true bypass??)
OK. I think I also solved this one. The headroom of BBDs is rather limited compared to e.g. opamps. Therefore, increasing the gain definitely doesn't make any sense. This limited headroom is also the reason for the 130k/130k voltage divider at the input. Isn't it??
Maybe I can squeeze in a gain stage at the output...
Markus
Let me see.
- input cap = .039 µf
- the PS filtering cap = 220 µf; without it you hear a lot of clock noise
- the output is the glob of goo next to the middle trimpot (on the backside). I guess I desoldered it when I took the pic
Quote from: Bernardduur on April 27, 2006, 01:51:37 PM
Let me see.
- input cap = .039 µf
- the PS filtering cap = 220 µf; without it you hear a lot of clock noise
- the output is the glob of goo next to the middle trimpot (on the backside). I guess I desoldered it when I took the pic
Thanks :)
Now everything is more or less clear!
BTW, how does it sound with bass?? Are there any issues with distortion (e.g. when used with an active bass)??
Markus
Hmmmm, good question; never used it with bass.
Give me 5 minutes ;)
OK, it sounds GREAT with bass. The unit sounds, to my ears, even better on bass then on guitar...... wow, this is a great discovery for me. No issues whatsoever with distortion or anything, altough I must say that I kinda lose distortion when the unit is on. I tried with both my P as J bass and with my Flipster preamp before it.
Nice! Now it is a shame I have it on my guitar board, have no place on my bass board and pretty much got used to my Small Clone (heavily modded) that I don't need it on bass.
Is this the same 9v Mistress as the one at Tonepad, I just finished building that one per the schematic and it is ticking like crazy. I have added some more filtering does'nt seem to do anything. It is Flanging just with a horrible tick, I have done the search on this and found a little advice. The strange thing is it so loud its like a pop at slow speeds that is. I hope this is OK to post this to your topic, if not I start a new one.
Thanks
Darryl
Bernard, thanks for your review! Seems I'm gonna like it :)
darryl, since it might well be that I have to deal with the same issues as you it's very OK for me ;)
How close is your layout to the original one??
Markus
Quote from: darryl on April 27, 2006, 02:59:02 PM
Is this the same 9v Mistress as the one at Tonepad, I just finished building that one per the schematic and it is ticking like crazy. I have added some more filtering does'nt seem to do anything. It is Flanging just with a horrible tick, I have done the search on this and found a little advice. The strange thing is it so loud its like a pop at slow speeds that is. I hope this is OK to post this to your topic, if not I start a new one.
Thanks
Darryl
Yes, it is..... mine is real (found it in a dumpster) ;) I have no pop or any noise at all as long as you keep the color pot low
I just layed it out on my own, just follow the schematic, did use two boards though one for LFO, and one for audio. So no real layout just go for it sometimes, tried a number of fixes nothing yet. I will note that in the Filter matrix mode it seems to work alright, it shuts off at the end of the pot turn. Lfo seems to stop to at the slow end of the resistence. I will keep working let you know.
Darryl
Good news!
It works ... and it sounds wonderful :) Just connected it the first time to my power supply and it immediately worked. Clock noise is not present. However, I replaced the two ps caps with ridiculously large ones (1000µ and 470µ). I'm very exited :) Tomorrow, I will check clock speed and also whether there is a volume drop. Will be interesting to see because I included the mods from Bernardduur's pics.
Hopefully, I can complete the project file this weekend. Thanks to EH for a terrific pedal!
Regards,
Markus
Excellent!
;D
Good going Markus!
Just checked the clock frequencies.
With the clock trim at 50% (lugs 1 and 3 are wired like in Stephen's schem), the rate pot at 0% and the range pot at 100% the clock frequ range is from ~29kHz to ~212kHz, with the trim at 0 or 100% the range is from ~172kHz to ~880kHz (measured after the flip flop).
If my calcs are correct this would give a flanging freq range (lowest notch) of 56-416 Hz (clock trim at 50%) and 335 Hz to 3437 Hz. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Just out of curiosity: Bernardduur could you do me another huge favour and measure the clock frequency range on your unit at pin 1 or 2 of the 4013 (with rate pot at 0% and range pot at 100%) ???? Thanks a lot in advance.
I believe there is still some volume drop (although I added the mods like in Bernard's unit) compared to true bypass but I can't say for sure since I did not connect the circuit to a stompswitch.
Regards,
Markus
Here is the promised profect file
http://www.diystompboxes.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v1.pdf (http://www.diystompboxes.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v1.pdf)
and here's a pic of the guts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/markusw/Mistressclonetop.jpg)
The pots will have to be replaced with others but I'm still waiting for the rev 1M pot.
Please report bugs.
Have fun,
Markus
NICE.
Thank you very much :icon_biggrin:
A HUGE thanks for all the hard work, R&D, layout, debugging,(the list goes on...) you did on this effect! You have done a truly great thing sharing your efforts with all of us. Guess it's time to finally build one :icon_cool:
Thanx again, and all the best,
red
Quote from: markusw on May 06, 2006, 09:34:59 AM
Just checked the clock frequencies.
With the clock trim at 50% (lugs 1 and 3 are wired like in Stephen's schem), the rate pot at 0% and the range pot at 100% the clock frequ range is from ~29kHz to ~212kHz, with the trim at 0 or 100% the range is from ~172kHz to ~880kHz (measured after the flip flop).
If my calcs are correct this would give a flanging freq range of 226-1666 Hz (clock trim at 50%) and 1342 Hz to 6874 Hz. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Just out of curiosity: Bernardduur could you do me another huge favour and measure the clock frequency range on your unit at pin 1 or 2 of the 4013 (with rate pot at 0% and range pot at 100%) ???? Thanks a lot in advance.
I believe there is still some volume drop (although I added the mods like in Bernard's unit) compared to true bypass but I can't say for sure since I did not connect the circuit to a stompswitch.
Regards,
Markus
I would love to.... but how should I do this?
Quote from: Bernardduur on May 07, 2006, 01:44:28 PM
I would love to.... but how should I do this?
I asked for this favour on the assumption that every DMM has a frequency counter, which I now realise might not be the case ;)
Thanks anyway!!
Markus
Quote from: markm on May 07, 2006, 01:21:17 PM
NICE.
Thank you very much :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: redeffect on May 07, 2006, 01:35:53 PM
A HUGE thanks for all the hard work, R&D, layout, debugging,(the list goes on...) you did on this effect! You have done a truly great thing sharing your efforts with all of us. Guess it's time to finally build one :icon_cool:
Thanx again, and all the best,
red
Kudos to Stephen, Francisco and Bernard......and obviously EH.
Glad you like it :)
Markus
Thank you !
Great work Mark.
I appreciate your appreciation!
today I feel like that song: Always the last to know!!
I have been wanting to build a flanger for some time, but the ac version was a bit past my capabilities.
I just traded this guitar
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/tenderstems/starstream2.jpg" border="0" alt="boo hoo, woe is me"></a>
for an old (I wont say vintage, I don't know how old it is) AC deluxe electric mistress. It doesnt have a grounded prong if that helps.
If I had seen this thread two days ago, I would have held out for cash instead!
dag nab it!
Also, sorry to hijack this, but does anyone know if the originals had sockets for some of the IC's. In my pedal, the SAD chip and the CD40... are both socketed. Weird? or repaired?
this is a great project!!!
QuoteIf I had seen this thread two days ago, I would have held out for cash instead!
Sorry about that! :(
BTW, just uploaded a corrected version (the note about the 200 ohm ps resistor was missing).
QuoteAlso, sorry to hijack this, but does anyone know if the originals had sockets for some of the IC's. In my pedal, the SAD chip and the CD40... are both socketed. Weird? or repaired?
In Bernard's 9V non-deluxe Mistress the SAD and the 4013 are also in sockets.
Markus
Edit: forgot another note...adedd..
Edit: just found another bug re C1 and C2 value note....corrected...
Quote from: markusw on May 08, 2006, 01:36:01 AM
QuoteIf I had seen this thread two days ago, I would have held out for cash instead!
Sorry about that! :(
BTW, just uploaded a corrected version (the note about the 200 ohm ps resistor was missing).
Its my fault! I'm just glad I can have a shot at my own. No, not glad, very grateful. Thank you!
Well Markusw, after looking over your schematic I had to make to changes to my layout of my Mistress. I had a 1N4001 on the 311 IC and the clock pot wired as a variable resistor. I changed these 1N4001 to a 1N4148 and pot wired correctly, works perfect no tick no thump just perfect Flanging. This is an incredible Flanger the long swoosh it has is great, thanks again to you Mark,Stephen, Francisco and Bernard. These are the kind of pedals that make it worth trouble shooting til you get it right.
Thanks Again to all the incredible thoughts and minds that are here at this forum.
Darryl Icard
Quote from: darryl on May 08, 2006, 11:43:03 AM
Well Markusw, after looking over your schematic I had to make to changes to my layout of my Mistress. I had a 1N4001 on the 311 IC and the clock pot wired as a variable resistor. I changed these 1N4001 to a 1N4148 and pot wired correctly, works perfect no tick no thump just perfect Flanging. This is an incredible Flanger the long swoosh it has is great, thanks again to you Mark,Stephen, Francisco and Bernard. These are the kind of pedals that make it worth trouble shooting til you get it right.
Thanks Again to all the incredible thoughts and minds that are here at this forum.
Darryl Icard
Cool you got it working! 8)
Interesting findings btw.
I suppose the different wiring of the clock pot shouldn't make a huge difference provided it is set to about 50% travel. Wired like in the original the total resistance is limited to 50k (at 50% travel) regardless which side you turn it, the reistance curve being quite flat at 50%; the curve basically looks like a mirrored log pot (U shaped). Therefore, with the pot wired as variable resistor at 50% you should get exactly the same result as with the pot wired the original way at 50%. With the pot as variable resistor you have a larger frquency range though, extended to lower frequencies.
Didn't expect that 1N4001 versus 1N4148 would make a difference. Voltage drop should be about the same.
I would highly appreciate if someone else (with more than 2 weeks of flanging experience ;) ) could comment on these findings.
Anyway, most important thing is you got it working :)
Markus
Thanks Markusw, yes it was great to get it going. I have build plenty of boxes and this is my first Flanger. Again thanks for all the work, and by the way are you looking for more of the science behind the pedal. Let me know if you have any more ?
Darryl
Quote from: StephenGiles on May 07, 2006, 04:02:57 PM
I appreciate your appreciation!
I appreciate you appreciating my appreciation ;) (Is this still english?)
Markus
Quote from: darryl on May 08, 2006, 01:41:54 PM
Thanks Markusw, yes it was great to get it going. I have build plenty of boxes and this is my first Flanger. Again thanks for all the work, and by the way are you looking for more of the science behind the pedal. Let me know if you have any more ?
Darryl
It was my first Flanger too. So I really understand your joy :)
At least I try to understand whats going on in all the pedals I build, which might be the reason for the actually quite low number of built fx boxes.
I'm always very happy if somebody reveals one piece of the whole electronic knowledge puzzle to me :) This forum is definitely a great source. You just need plenty of time to browse through all these posts. So most of the time it isn't me who is explaining the science behind the pedals.
Markus
Here's the BOM, maybe you want to add it to the pdf:
Resistors
---------
2 - 10R
1 - 200R
4 - 470R
1 - 510R
1 - 1k
1 - 2k7
2 - 3k9
1 - 4k7
3 - 5k6
1 - 6k2
2 - 8k2
3 - 10k
1 - 12k
1 - 13k
1 - 24k
1 - 27k
1 - 30k
1 - 33k
2 - 39k
1 - 47k
1 - 62k
1 - 82k
2 - 100k
2 - 200k
2 - 1M
1 - 1M2
Capacitors
-------------
1 - 47p
1 - 1n
1 - 2n2
1 - 3n3
1 - 6n8
1 - 15n
1 - 33n
3 - 47n
1 - 68n
1 - 100n
1 - 220n
Polars
-----------
1 - 1u (tantalo)
1 - 1u
1 - 5u
1 - 10u
2 - 33u (tantalo)
1 - 100u
1 - 220u
Diodes
------
1 - 1N961B
2 - 1N4001
1 - 1N4148
Transistors
------------
1 - 2N5087
Integ
----------
1 - CD4013 (14)
1 - SAD1024 (16)
1 - LM311 (8)
1 - 4558 (8)
1 - LM324 (14)
Trimmers
--------
1 - 10k
2 - 100k
QuoteHere's the BOM, maybe you want to add it to the pdf:
Thanks! Will add it this evening! I was too lazy to do it ;)
Markus
Quote from: markusw on May 11, 2006, 10:22:08 AM
Thanks!
No, thanks to you!
BTW, what about the volume drop when true-bypass? Did you check that?
QuoteHere's the BOM, maybe you want to add it to the pdf:
Added. File updated :)
QuoteBTW, what about the volume drop when true-bypass? Did you check that?
I checked right now, and although it's not massive it's clearly audible. So adding a tiny post-gain-stage PCB will be necessary for TBP.
Markus
Quotesuppose the different wiring of the clock pot shouldn't make a huge difference provided it is set to about 50% travel. Wired like in the original the total resistance is limited to 50k (at 50% travel) regardless which side you turn it, the reistance curve being quite flat at 50%; the curve basically looks like a mirrored log pot (U shaped).
Therefore, with the pot wired as variable resistor at 50% you should get exactly the same result as with the pot wired the original way at 50%.
Sorry for that crap :icon_redface:
Two 50k in parallel are 25K. Thus, to get the same VCO freq with the clock trim wired the original way at 50% you obviously need to turn the pot wired as variable resistor to about 25%.
QuoteWith the pot as variable resistor you have a larger frquency range though, extended to lower frequencies.
Still true IMHO ;)
Might be interesting for bass. Will try on weekend.
Markus
OK, right now I checked the VCO frequency w/o the clock trim jumper. With the trim wired as variable resitor at 50% travel the VCO goes down to about 17kHz, at 100% travel down to about 9kHz. Basically, I like the sound best with the trim set to about 25% travel which equals 50% travel with the trim wired like in the original. Anyway it for sure doesn't hurt to leave the jumper off since it's quite interesting to see/hear what happens.
At higher trim pot resistance than 50K (i.e. lower VCO frequencies than 17kHz) the sound comes somehow distorted. Maybe somebody could explain why ? ;)
Markus
Added a note on the 2k7 resistor at the battery pad to the project file.
Markus
Ahem, sorry for the stupid question, but where is the rest of the images? Is there an overlay for the components side? I was thinking to check the layout, but can't w/o the other side of the coin, so to say. :)
read the whole thread?
Oops, missed that one. I htink I got distracted by the beauty of a picture of a finished board. :) Sorry.
I'm gearing up to take on this great flanger project, but had a question regarding the 10 volt zener diode(1N961B): Can I get away with using a 9.1 volt zener instead? Was going to order the parts from Smallbear and that was the closest he had.
Thanks for offering up a comprehensive layout, markusw.... the efforts and generosity on this forum are mindblowing!!!!
I just love PCBs with ground planes,(don't ask why :icon_redface:)....great job.....thanks
Aharon
Thank you so much for working so hard on that and posting all of it. I am really humbled by how cool people are around here and how casually people undertake something daunting like turning a schematic into a PCB layout so doofs like me can actually build these projects.
And your timing couldn't be better, because my cousin's birthday is coming up! I can only afford to *buy* him Behringer pedals, but I can afford to *build* him an Electric Mistress!
SAD1024 = $15
Pots = $4
Widgets = $5
Other Widgets = $5
Seeing Your Cousin's Face When He Opens Up An Electric Mistress Clone = priceless
There are some things you can't buy. For everything else there is the generosity of others who make project files.
I have a killer enclosure, too.
Quote from: bluesdevil on June 10, 2006, 04:39:57 PM
I'm gearing up to take on this great flanger project, but had a question regarding the 10 volt zener diode(1N961B): Can I get away with using a 9.1 volt zener instead? Was going to order the parts from Smallbear and that was the closest he had.
I'm using a 15V Zener. So running the circuit at 12V isn't a problem. Since all the caps are rated for voltages of at least 25V (in my clone) it should be fine to run it at even 15V which is still 2V below the maximum rating for the SAD1024 (17V).
Markus
Thanks for the info Markus, I have a 12 volt zener on hand and will just use it. Should have something swooshing in a couple of weeks hopefully.
Here's a slightyl updated project file:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v11_update.pdf (http://www.diystompboxes.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v11_update.pdf)
The jumper at the clock trim was wrong in the schem, also I realised that the trim pots were not labelled in the wiring schem. The layout didn't change.
Markus
Here's the updated link
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v11_update.pdf (http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v11_update.pdf)
Have fun :)
Markus
Completely stumped. I built this with the most current project file and it's non-functional. I've checked voltages and everywhere that was expecting V+ is getting 9.15V, V+2 is getting 8.68 and Vref is 4.78.
There is a guitar signal at pin 2 of the SAD1024 but nothing coming out of it. i jumpered the send and return and get the unaffected signal at the output but nothing else.
Also there doesn't appear to be any clock signal but I can't see why. I've checked for solder bridges and broken traces, misplaced components and everything else I can think of and don't know what to do next.
Update:
I can see a pulse at pin 2 of the 311 and I can vary it's rate and magnitude with the rate and range knobs. But there is still nothing at pin 7. What should be output there?
There is 68mV voltage at pin 7 even though there is 9v at the other end of that 10K resistor right there.
I just started fresh with a completely new PCB and it's exactly the same problem. I even switch all the ICs to no effect.
I'm using a 1N4148 for D3.
I get a pulse input at pin 2 of the LM311 but nothing at pin 7. There's just a voltage of 0.09v but no pulse. Is this right?
Also I have the clean signal inputing the SAD1024 at pin 2 just fine and there is a faint output signal at pins 6 and 12 but no effect.
Here's my voltages:
LM311
1 - 0v
2 - 2.53v
3 - ranges from 0.42 to 0.57 v depending on clock trim
4 - 0
5 - 9.24v
6 - 9.24v
7 - 0.09v
8 - 9.24v
CD4013
1 - 9.24
2 - 0
3 - 0.09
4 to 11 - 0
12 - 9.24
13 - 0
14 - 9.24
SAD1024
1 - 0
2 - 2.27
3 - 0
4 - 0
5 - 8.75
6 - 1.3
7 - 8.75
8 - 9.24
9 - 8.75
10 - 9.24
11 - 8.75
12 - 1.27
13 - 0
14 - 0
15 - 2.27
16 - 0
At a first glance the voltages seem reasonable for me.
Does the LFO work?
You should see DC voltage changing on pin 8 of the LM324. Maybe check if the flanger/matrix switch is in flanger mode.
Voltage on pins 2 and 15 of the SAD seems to be a bit low. Maybe try to get it higher with the bias trim.
I can get the voltage on 2 and 15 of SAD1024 up to 4.32v the bias trim but it doesn't have any effect.
The LFO is working. I think my multimeter is too slow to register it but with an audio probe there is a definite pulse there and at pin 2 of the 311 so the flanger/matrix switch is in the right position.
How are the voltages on the 324?
Actually, I would assume if the LFO is set to slowest you should be able to see the sweep even on a cheap DMM (set to DC).
Don't give up! ;)
Do you have access to a scope or a frequency counter?
I have the audio probe going into a DI box into a MOTU AD converter and then into the computer with some software scopes and frequency analyzers and with that I can see the rate of the LFO sort of. It goes from somewhere around 20Hz with the rate pot at full to somewhat less than 1 Hz by watching for peaks on the input, I'm assuming the setup I'm using wouldn't pick up anything below 20hz anyways. So it would appear the LFO is functioning. At least up to the input of the LM311, pin 2. The actual IC is a LM311N but by looking at datasheets this shouldn't be important. I'd still like to know what is supposed to be output at pin 7 of the 311. There is nothing there on any scopes and the DMM.
Here's the voltages for the LM324 (the range knob is maxed)
1 - 2.67
2 - 1.62
3 - 1.57
4 - 9.5
5 - 4.38
6 - 4.3
7 - 4.37
8 - 4.35
9 - 4.39
10 - 4.30
11 - 0
12 - 4.33
13 - 4.77
14 - 4.77
The voltages on the 324 should be OK.
On the output of the 311 should be the clock signal, which is well above the audio range. So you won't be able to see the clock signal on soundcard software scope.
Maybe you can get access to a real scope to check?
Hello everyone,
I just built a 9V Electric Mistress using Gaussmarkov layout but the pedal doesn't work. :icon_cry:
I have the following problem i can't sort out:
- the 10 ohm resistor at the power input keeps burning up every time i tried to test the pedal. It only happened when using a power supply and the result is always the same: led works fine but that resistor burns immediately. Using a battery, instead, produced nothing...no led and no burnt resistor.
i don't have a clue about what's wrong with the board. I couldn't find any shorts or anything else wrong, and only substituted the 1N961B Zener (10V, 32mA, 500mW) with a 12V zener diode. I double-checked the caps polarity (electros and tantaliums), the diodes, the IC's...
??? ??? ??? ???
if needed, i can post pictures of my build, obviously.
Thanks in advance, mates
poniz
....help would be highly appreciated. thanks in advance
poniz
please, any information would be really appreciated...i'd like to sort everything out as that burning resistor is a nightmare for me ??? ??? ??? ???
poniz
There are 2 power supply inputs, one for battery and one for a transformer or whatever, if you connect the Power supply + to the Batt + the resistor will burn.
Quote from: ruispeeds on October 26, 2008, 06:01:46 AM
There are 2 power supply inputs, one for battery and one for a transformer or whatever, if you connect the Power supply + to the Batt + the resistor will burn.
hi ruispeeds, thanks for your message...
so, the two power supply inputs cannot be run together, isn't it? i mean, i soldered the red wire coming from the power supply positive pin to the pad marked "V+ Power Supply" on the board; and then the red wire coming from the battery clip to the "V+ battery". is that the error?
thanks in advance
poniz
Quotei mean, i soldered the red wire coming from the power supply positive pin to the pad marked "V+ Power Supply" on the board;
Did you check the orientation of the zener diode? If the zener was in the wrong orientation the 10R would burn. Also there might be a short between V+ and ground somewhere around the zener.
Quote from: markusw on October 28, 2008, 05:18:35 AM
Quotei mean, i soldered the red wire coming from the power supply positive pin to the pad marked "V+ Power Supply" on the board;
Did you check the orientation of the zener diode? If the zener was in the wrong orientation the 10R would burn. Also there might be a short between V+ and ground somewhere around the zener.
hi markusw, thanks for your help. i'm quite sure that the zener and all the polarized elements are placed correctly (but i'll check again). as for a possible short between V+ and ground around the zener...i will carefully look for something like that!
i made a few pics of the board (sorry, they're slightly blurred...hopefully i'll replace them with better ones soon)
the first one is the board
(http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l394/ilponiz/DSCF1095.jpg)
the second one is a close up of the area with the burned resistor (it's just above the IC on the right side of the pic)
(http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l394/ilponiz/DSCF1094.jpg)
thanks again
poniz
Quote from: ilponiz on October 28, 2008, 02:35:12 PM
Quote from: markusw on October 28, 2008, 05:18:35 AM
Quotei mean, i soldered the red wire coming from the power supply positive pin to the pad marked "V+ Power Supply" on the board;
Did you check the orientation of the zener diode? If the zener was in the wrong orientation the 10R would burn. Also there might be a short between V+ and ground somewhere around the zener.
thanks again markus, i just redrawn and etched a pcb based on your layout. i did it in order to avoid my messy soldering, hope you don't mind!
:)
here's a pic of the work in progress (i'll test it in the next days and can look forward to hear a nice flanging sound coming out!)
(http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l394/ilponiz/DSCF1361.jpg)
and another one
(http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l394/ilponiz/DSCF1360.jpg)
have a nice day
poniz
Quotei just redrawn and etched a pcb based on your layout. i did it in order to avoid my messy soldering, hope you don't mind!
Not at all. :) Looks verry nice! Actually, it's not really my layout. Basically, I just copied the original one.
Good luck with your first test!
Quote from: markusw on November 13, 2008, 09:25:49 AM
Quotei just redrawn and etched a pcb based on your layout. i did it in order to avoid my messy soldering, hope you don't mind!
Not at all. :) Looks verry nice! Actually, it's not really my layout. Basically, I just copied the original one.
Good luck with your first test!
just tested...clean sound comes through and clean sound (no flanging at all) even when the effect is engaged!!!!!
so, i triple checked the polarized caps, the diodes, the IC's and wiring. I tested it by using two different NOS sad1024 but still no flanger...any idea?
i'm including new pictures of the pedal.
the only modifications or substitution i added are:
-redrawn of the pcb layout (simply by removing the extra ground area, mainly)
-modification of the ground pads due to an error in placing the 9v jack (you can see in the pic i tried to fit everything by cutting a small portion of the pcb and adding a jumper to the ground rail)
-substitution of the 13K resistor with a 12k one
-i jumpered the pads of the filter matrix (which i didn't need)
please, help me in debugging this as i think i'm just few steps away from having it working!
thank you guys
poniz
the inner of the pedal with the pcb and everything...
(http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l394/ilponiz/DSCF1425.jpg)
and, just to let you know how the pedal looks like, here's the artwork for the pedal:
(http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l394/ilponiz/DSCF1420.jpg)