DIYstompboxes.com

Hi,
I have finished my multicolor etching tutorial and uploaded it to rapidshare.

It's a 20MB file, with high quality pics and step by step instructions.

Maybe there could be wrong words (I'm not a native english spoken, but I do my best...) so if you find anything weird please tell me and I'll correct it. Also if you have doubts about things that aren't in the tutorial you can leave them here and I'll be refreshing the file.

Download PDF (http://rapidshare.com/files/322185195/_Tutorial__Making_a_Multicolor_Etching.pdf)

(http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3006/sn859795.jpg)

(http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/4354/sn859831.jpg)

(http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/985/sn850062.jpg)

Hope you like it.

Regards,

Fernando.-

SWEET :D

Well I can only download by becoming a premium user. Unfortunately I dont do such things. :icon_neutral:

What? Can't you download the file as free user?
The file has several downloads but maybe in some countries people can't download from Rapidshare for free.

Well... Any ideas for where could I upload the file?

Quote from: Slade on December 17, 2009, 02:27:51 PM
Well... Any ideas for where could I upload the file?

Dropbox (https://www.dropbox.com/referrals/NTg3MDA4ODk)! Free, abundant, no silly "sign up" stuff to download. You just post a direct link to the file and you're done.

Your results look great! What pedal is that?

Quote from: iaresee on December 17, 2009, 02:39:55 PM

Quote from: Slade on December 17, 2009, 02:27:51 PM
Well... Any ideas for where could I upload the file?

Dropbox (https://www.dropbox.com/referrals/NTg3MDA4ODk)! Free, abundant, no silly "sign up" stuff to download. You just post a direct link to the file and you're done.

Haha! Now I'm uploading the file to Dropbox and you have more space on your account ;) Thanks.

The pedal is a 2s analog sounding delay with 2 PT's and a filter for the repeats.

Quote from: Slade on December 17, 2009, 02:50:53 PM
Haha! Now I'm uploading the file to Dropbox and you have more space on your account ;) Thanks.

Right on. I actually think I've maxed out my referral bonus space. It's capped. I'll be buying a subscription after the holidays. It's insanely useful technology. I've even started using it to save diffs automatically on projects as I work because it revisions every change to a file and holds on to them for a useful amount of time.

Nice enclosure BTW. :)

Good tutorial. Very easy to follow!

Thanks, glad you like it!

Here is the optional download site:

Download PDF from Dropbox (https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/%5BTutorial%5D%20Making%20a%20Multicolor%20Etching.pdf?w=41ad937f)

Thanks a lot for this Slade! I have been wondering about your technique since I saw your first etch on the picture forum. Your work truly is amazing. I hope to try and replicate it soon enough. I have one question though. The package of photo paper you use says it is for inkjet printers. Do you just use toner anyways and get good results?

BTW I was able to download from rapid share with out becoming a member. In my experience in times of heavy traffic it only allows premium downloads.

WOW!  What an amazing pedal.  I really want to learn how to do etching like you!

I tried both ways to download and got the "must be a premium member" on the rapid share site and the dropbox link gave me an error message that indicated I didn't belong.  I did create a login account, but clicking on your pdf link takes me to the error page and then when I log in I just get to my own file area. 

Anyone know how to get this to work?  I am dying to see the tutorial and order some supplies!

Quote from: KazooMan on December 17, 2009, 05:42:35 PM

WOW!  What an amazing pedal.  I really want to learn how to do etching like you!

I tried both ways to download and got the "must be a premium member" on the rapid share site and the dropbox link gave me an error message that indicated I didn't belong.  I did create a login account, but clicking on your pdf link takes me to the error page and then when I log in I just get to my own file area. 

Anyone know how to get this to work?  I am dying to see the tutorial and order some supplies!

Im getting this problem aswell and REALLY wanna see this tutorial

Hmm...
I'll keep uploading the file to different servers, sadly I can't modify the first post and I can only post different posts with the new links.

Answering to Kearns892: This paper is for inkjet printers but can be used with laser printers too, there's no problem with doing it, in fact I think it's better for this because it's High Glossy, really soft paper and the toner transference is faster and more efficient ;)

Quote from: Slade on December 17, 2009, 07:00:17 PM
Hmm...
I'll keep uploading the file to different servers, sadly I can't modify the first post and I can only post different posts with the new links.

Answering to Kearns892: This paper is for inkjet printers but can be used with laser printers too, there's no problem with doing it, in fact I think it's better for this because it's High Glossy, really soft paper and the toner transference is faster and more efficient ;)

Hey I got it working from rapid share. One questions, do ink jet printers work? or do you need a laser printer?

Ok, glad it worked for you. I'm uploading the file to other servers anyway.

You must print the design with a laser printer, inkjet print won't work, just like doing a PCB.

EDIT: New download server: Click Here To Download! (http://www.sendspace.com/file/o8bf3a)

Quote from: Slade on December 17, 2009, 07:46:13 PM
Ok, glad it worked for you. I'm uploading the file to other servers anyway.

You must print the design with a laser printer, inkjet print won't work, just like doing a PCB.

Ah dangit. Im gonna have to find one somewhere =/ I never knew it had to be laser but after all the use of the word "toner" I started to realise ha

Thanks for the tutorial

Quote from: Hupla on December 17, 2009, 07:49:31 PM

Quote from: Slade on December 17, 2009, 07:46:13 PM
Ok, glad it worked for you. I'm uploading the file to other servers anyway.

You must print the design with a laser printer, inkjet print won't work, just like doing a PCB.

Ah dangit. Im gonna have to find one somewhere =/ I never knew it had to be laser but after all the use of the word "toner" I started to realise ha

Thanks for the tutorial

You would probably be able to print it up on your inkjet, and take it to a copy shop (Kinko's, in my part of the world) and use a photo copier to get your toner version.  I'd do several, in case your first transfer doesn't work!


Slade - the only grammar thing that stuck in my mind was the word immerge.  You meant immerse.  Emerge means to rise from or as if from an enveloping fluid.  The exact opposite of what you are after.  Immerse means to plunge or dip into a fluid.  I know there were a few others, but they didn't get repeated, and so I didn't remember them. 

Good job, though, for English not being your native language.


Gabriel

I don't recommend to print the design in a inkjet printer and then photocopy it. The design print is really important, as told in the tutorial, and must be done in a laserprint with very good quality and high density toner to get good results.

Thanks for the correction! I just assumed that word would be correct but I didn't check it  :icon_lol:

Thanks for the tutorial Slade! Very thorough!

You're welcome! Glad you like it! ;)

Thank you very much Fernando.  You are an artist, an engineer and a true gentleman!

Thanks!

The third link worked just fine.  Very nice tutorial.  I need to work harder at masking off areas that don't get a good coating of toner.  The tips on sanding are also appreciated.  I have been using steel wool to prepare the surface and it doesn't always result in good adhesion of the toner.

¡Muchas gracias Fernando! Y no te preocupas de tu Inglés ;)
Ahora estoy pensando de un dibujo como los tuyos para un 'swell pedal' (el de Solderman) y un woolly mammoth. Sólo para probar tu técnica.

Thanks for the tutorial!!!!  ;D ;D

now..i need new enclosures.. :D

Thanks for the tutorial Fernando, I'm downloading it as we speak. I yearn to produce etches like yours, it's one of my goals for next year.  :icon_cool:


EDIT: OK, just read the whole tutorial, you attention to detail is excellent. Your etches are so good that my mouth is literally watering. My GF thinks I'm odd for that.

So cool, thanks for the tutorial

Hey guys. Just want an opinion. Is it easy to etch an enclosure after you have drilled holes into it? I can imagine it isn't too different, I just want to know as I don't think ill be able to etch for a while but I want to get the pedal done soone.

You're welcome, guys, I'm so glad you like the tutorial!  :icon_biggrin:

Quote from: KazooMan on December 18, 2009, 09:47:25 AM

Thanks!

The third link worked just fine.  Very nice tutorial.  I need to work harder at masking off areas that don't get a good coating of toner.  The tips on sanding are also appreciated.  I have been using steel wool to prepare the surface and it doesn't always result in good adhesion of the toner.

I think the sanding is a very important part of the process. Much people doing their first time etching don't pay attention to this part.

Quote from: Valoosj on December 18, 2009, 11:04:07 AM
¡Muchas gracias Fernando! Y no te preocupas de tu Inglés ;)
Ahora estoy pensando de un dibujo como los tuyos para un 'swell pedal' (el de Solderman) y un woolly mammoth. Sólo para probar tu técnica.

Valoosj, gracias por hablar en español! Eres nativo, aprendiste o usaste un diccionario? Haha.

Quote from: frequencycentral on December 18, 2009, 01:23:34 PM
Thanks for the tutorial Fernando, I'm downloading it as we speak. I yearn to produce etches like yours, it's one of my goals for next year.  :icon_cool:


EDIT: OK, just read the whole tutorial, you attention to detail is excellent. Your etches are so good that my mouth is literally watering. My GF thinks I'm odd for that.

Rick, just give it a try. It's so infinite as what you can design. Some persons think this techniques are limited... Maybe the colors are a limitation, but not the designs.. Just look at InsaneKane beautiful reverse-etchings... Because of that I incentivate you all to innovate applying your own ideas in the tutorial ;)

Quote from: Hupla on December 18, 2009, 05:42:11 PM
Hey guys. Just want an opinion. Is it easy to etch an enclosure after you have drilled holes into it? I can imagine it isn't too different, I just want to know as I don't think ill be able to etch for a while but I want to get the pedal done soone.

You can do it by protecting the holes (after the hard sanding work) with masking tape. The difference is that you won't immerse the enclosure on the etchant, but you shed the etchant over the designs in drops very carefully, just protect the areas around the designs and all the parts of the enclosure that don't have designs.

Quote from: Slade on December 18, 2009, 05:49:42 PM

Quote from: Hupla on December 18, 2009, 05:42:11 PM
Hey guys. Just want an opinion. Is it easy to etch an enclosure after you have drilled holes into it? I can imagine it isn't too different, I just want to know as I don't think ill be able to etch for a while but I want to get the pedal done soone.

You can do it by protecting the holes (after the hard sanding work) with masking tape. The difference is that you won't immerse the enclosure on the etchant, but you shed the etchant over the designs in drops very carefully, just protect the areas around the designs and all the parts of the enclosure that don't have designs.

So it's not a good idea to immerse it in the etchant but you can still do it? im not familiar with the drip technique seems more awkward.

Quote from: Slade on December 18, 2009, 05:49:42 PM

Quote from: Valoosj on December 18, 2009, 11:04:07 AM
¡Muchas gracias Fernando! Y no te preocupas de tu Inglés ;)
Ahora estoy pensando de un dibujo como los tuyos para un 'swell pedal' (el de Solderman) y un woolly mammoth. Sólo para probar tu técnica.

Valoosj, gracias por hablar en español! Eres nativo, aprendiste o usaste un diccionario? Haha.

Vivo en Bélgica, un pequeño país que nadie conoce y necesitamos aprender lenguas. ¿Porque quién habla néerlandes?
Estudio Inglés y Español en el instituto superior de Amberes, y hablo un poco de francés y allemán.

Quote from: Hupla on December 18, 2009, 05:57:45 PM
So it's not a good idea to immerse it in the etchant but you can still do it? im not familiar with the drip technique seems more awkward.

I don't recommend doing the immersion in this case, I recommend to shed the etchant over the designs carefully ;).

Quote from: Valoosj on December 18, 2009, 06:00:03 PM
Vivo en Bélgica, un pequeño país que nadie conoce y necesitamos aprender lenguas. ¿Porque quién habla néerlandes?
Estudio Inglés y Español en el instituto superior de Amberes, y hablo un poco de francés y allemán.

Ok, estás escribiendo muy bien, falta escucharte hablar para evaluarte! Haha, sólo bromeo. Ni siquiera conocía el nombre de tu idioma, pero si he escuchado mucho de Bélgica ;) Yo intento dar a conocer Chile al mundo a través de mi trabajo, es una buena forma!

Great job on the tutorial Fernando, thnaks for sharing!

dave

You're welcome ;)
Thanks for your comment.

thanks for this tutorial! great work!

Quote from: Slade on December 18, 2009, 07:56:13 PM

Quote from: Hupla on December 18, 2009, 05:57:45 PM
So it's not a good idea to immerse it in the etchant but you can still do it? im not familiar with the drip technique seems more awkward.

I don't recommend doing the immersion in this case, I recommend to shed the etchant over the designs carefully ;).
{

So do ya let the etchant run over it or like let it puddle on the part you want to etch?

Quote from: Hupla on December 20, 2009, 10:42:16 AM
So do ya let the etchant run over it or like let it puddle on the part you want to etch?

The second.
Just shed the etchant in drops over the designs until you cover them completely (You don't need to cover all the surface, just the designs, the surface must be protected with nail enamel and masking tape), then use a tip to remove the metal rests while the etchant is still working, like stirring it. Once the etchant is agglomerated just use a napskin to take off this rest, clean the enclosure with water and an old toothbrush and see if the etching is deep enough. Here I let you some pictures explaining this:

(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9730/sn856464.jpg)

(http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6543/sn856466.jpg)

(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4151/sn856470.jpg)

Quote from: Slade on December 20, 2009, 11:05:50 AM

Quote from: Hupla on December 20, 2009, 10:42:16 AM
So do ya let the etchant run over it or like let it puddle on the part you want to etch?

The second.
Just shed the etchant in drops over the designs until you cover them completely (You don't need to cover all the surface, just the designs, the surface must be protected with nail enamel and masking tape), then use a tip to remove the metal rests while the etchant is still working, like stirring it. Once the etchant is agglomerated just use a napskin to take off this rest, clean the enclosure with water and an old toothbrush and see if the etching is deep enough. Here I let you some pictures explaining this:

(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9730/sn856464.jpg)

(http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6543/sn856466.jpg)


(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4151/sn856470.jpg)

Thanks very much. it makes alot of sense now.

Quote from: Hupla on December 20, 2009, 11:14:48 AM
Thanks very much. it makes alot of sense now.

You're welcome. I want to see the etchings you'll do in the future ;)

Quote from: Slade on December 20, 2009, 03:25:45 PM

Quote from: Hupla on December 20, 2009, 11:14:48 AM
Thanks very much. it makes alot of sense now.

You're welcome. I want to see the etchings you'll do in the future ;)

I should have one in the next few weeks, and looks like i wont have to do the drip technique :)

Thanks so much for your tutorial.

Wow Slade, You're an inspiration. Can't wait to try out your techniques.

one more question slade, or anyone who knows the answer, what exactly is the difference betwern wet and dry sandpaper? Does wet sandpaper just have less grit?

Wet-to-dry sandpaper is bult so that it can be used when wet (to lubricate and prevent loading.)  It also works when dry, but often not as well.

Dry sandpaper may not withstand getting wet (either the backing disintegrating or the adhesive holding the abrasive failing).  Dry sandpaper may also have lubricants intended for specific uses, eg. stereated paper.  But these lubricants may then intefere with certain finishes (stereates are essentially fatty acids (wax like substances) and are known to foul up water based lacquers.)

Quote from: ThomasD on December 27, 2009, 02:16:56 PM
Wet-to-dry sandpaper is bult so that it can be used when wet (to lubricate and prevent loading.)  It also works when dry, but often not as well.

Dry sandpaper may not withstand getting wet (either the backing disintegrating or the adhesive holding the abrasive failing).  Dry sandpaper may also have lubricants intended for specific uses, eg. stereated paper.  But these lubricants may then intefere with certain finishes (stereates are essentially fatty acids (wax like substances) and are known to foul up water based lacquers.)

Ah it all makes sense now. Thanks. Now off to etch :)

Quote from: ThomasD on December 27, 2009, 02:16:56 PM
Wet-to-dry sandpaper is bult so that it can be used when wet (to lubricate and prevent loading.)  It also works when dry, but often not as well.

Dry sandpaper may not withstand getting wet (either the backing disintegrating or the adhesive holding the abrasive failing).  Dry sandpaper may also have lubricants intended for specific uses, eg. stereated paper.  But these lubricants may then intefere with certain finishes (stereates are essentially fatty acids (wax like substances) and are known to foul up water based lacquers.)

Thanks for writing that clarification  ;).
Hupla, when you watersand the enclosure, the water must be flowing over the surface so it drags all the metal and sandpaper rests, leaving the surface clean and soft for the etching work.

Quote from: Slade on December 28, 2009, 02:26:39 PM

Quote from: ThomasD on December 27, 2009, 02:16:56 PM
Wet-to-dry sandpaper is bult so that it can be used when wet (to lubricate and prevent loading.)  It also works when dry, but often not as well.

Dry sandpaper may not withstand getting wet (either the backing disintegrating or the adhesive holding the abrasive failing).  Dry sandpaper may also have lubricants intended for specific uses, eg. stereated paper.  But these lubricants may then intefere with certain finishes (stereates are essentially fatty acids (wax like substances) and are known to foul up water based lacquers.)

Thanks for writing that clarification  ;).
Hupla, when you watersand the enclosure, the water must be flowing over the surface so it drags all the metal and sandpaper rests, leaving the surface clean and soft for the etching work.

Adding a couple drops of dish soap to your water will keep the sand paper from getting clogged up too quickly as well.


Gabriel

thanks guys. Im hoping to etch 2moro so well see how well your techniques translate then. :) if all goes well i should have some pictures up 2moro

Fernando:

What do you recommend to use as an etchant?

(And thanks for the tutorial - your work is an inspiration!)

- Art

Thanks, Art.
I use ferric perchloride, but I think any of the same etchants you use for the PCBs will do the job, maybe at different exposition times.
Greetings.

Quote from: Slade on December 29, 2009, 09:23:08 AM
Thanks, Art.
I use ferric perchloride, but I think any of the same etchants you use for the PCBs will do the job, maybe at different exposition times.
Greetings.

Hey Slade. I tried my first toner transfer just now. It didnt work out so great the first time. My paper is different to yours. The back melts alot so i put some paper over it and when i go to peel it, it doesnt come off like yours. I have to woke it and peel the paper off with my nail, and then all i have left is the toner.

On my first go too much tone didnt transfer so i sanded it and had another go. The first time i forgo the cleaning with the lighter fluid but not the second time.

I also left it for longer this time and it looks like it might be a success. *fingers Crossed* Im letting it soak now so the paper comes off easier.

Ill continue this post somewhere else if you dont want all of this in your thread. Just let me know.

Thanks again slade.

Quote from: Hupla on December 29, 2009, 10:06:08 AM

Ill continue this post somewhere else if you dont want all of this in your thread. Just let me know.

Thanks again slade.

Just keep on posting here, so we all will know how that's going and if you have more questions you can ask here  :icon_biggrin:

Greetings.

Just thought I would show you how the etching went for me slade.

This is after the toner transfer. The photo paper I used left behind some lining which covered the parts without toner aswell.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=41834&g2_serialNumber=2)

So i had to scrape it all away. Its a step I'd like to get rid of ha :)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=41837&g2_serialNumber=2)

Turns out the ferric chloride etch's away the lining that was left over but very slowly so it still needs to be scraped away.
This is how it turned out.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=41840&g2_serialNumber=2)

And here it is painted and with holes drilled
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=41846&g2_serialNumber=2)

And Here she is all finished. :)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=41855&g2_serialNumber=4)

Thanks very much for your tutorial. I wanted to show these pictures an example of how following it can give you a great looking pedal (to my eyes anyway ha) ;)

And there are more pictures if anyone is interested http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/hupla/

( I apologies, im excited its my first build :))

Wow!!!! :o
Really nice first etching!!!! Congratulations, Hupla, just keep on working on your techniques, suddenly you'll find the way that suits better for you ;)
Thanks for showing your work to us.

Regards,

Fernando.-

Quote from: Slade on January 03, 2010, 07:23:04 PM
Wow!!!! :o
Really nice first etching!!!! Congratulations, Hupla, just keep on working on your techniques, suddenly you'll find the way that suits better for you ;)
Thanks for showing your work to us.

Regards,

Fernando.-

No problem slade. Thanks for gettin me started on this. :) I think etching looks the best. :)

Sure wish I could view this with an iPhone !

Quote from: glenn.b on January 04, 2010, 02:06:26 PM
Sure wish I could view this with an iPhone !

You cant? I can view these pics on my phone and its alot worse than an iphone :)

Forgive me, I was not clear.  What I meant was I'd like to view the whole tutorial on one of the sites listed here, but for some reason cannot navigate there/ download this file onto my iPhone .  As far as pics go, these ones on this post all look great on my phone.

Quote from: glenn.b on January 06, 2010, 12:41:45 PM
Forgive me, I was not clear.  What I meant was I'd like to view the whole tutorial on one of the sites listed here, but for some reason cannot navigate there/ download this file onto my iPhone .  As far as pics go, these ones on this post all look great on my phone.

Oh right im sorry. Well it is a PDF file. Can I phone's open PDF files?

man that work is cool.....love it...
could i use actetate  on an eddystone die cast box?...
they seem a bit cheaper quality than the hammonds....

ive been doing my pcbs with clear acetate and they come out really well...no paper to rub off etc...

also i use the white clear ferric chloride instead of the brown..will this be ok...?

excellent work man..really inspiring.......lets see some more pedal porn pics!....ha ha..

rob. uk.

Quote from: deadastronaut on January 11, 2010, 09:11:13 PM

also i use the white clear ferric chloride instead of the brown..will this be ok...?

That's probably not Ferric Chloride, then, but some other etching chemical.  Ammonium Persulfate or some such.

At a guess, any toner transfer method would work.  I tried it with Press n' Peel Blue, and it worked fine.  The one thing I did find is that, when you fill any holes in your toner transfer you might have, you need to be more careful about how you fill them.  On circuit boards I use a Sharpie (permanent marker) and it works great.  The same is was not true etching a 1590BB.  I've got no idea why the difference.  You could try a clear nail polish or something - I'm guessing that would work.  However, to save a bit of time, I covered the sides of my box with a good clear packing tape, which worked great!


Gabriel

Ammonium Persulfate does not work on aluminium

For the sides of the box, do you do any etching or just tape off the top and paint?

Awesome tutorial! I've never tried etching, but this kinda makes me want to take a shot at it...

I cannot download the pdfCan someone upload it anywhere else?

Just found the PDF here after trying to download it for hours.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/24250149/Making-a-Multicolor-Etching

You have to login, but it works like a charm.

Thanks for your comments, this download link is still working, it was on the first page of this thread just a few posts down:
http://www.sendspace.com/file/o8bf3a

Quote from: Slade on February 26, 2010, 08:02:40 PM
Thanks for your comments, this download link is still working, it was on the first page of this thread just a few posts down:
http://www.sendspace.com/file/o8bf3a

Sort of...Sendspace told me for something like 3 hours that they don't have slot for non-premium user and I should please try again later.
Gonna upload it somewhere else tomorrow and post the link if that's ok with you. Nice tut btw. :)

Don't worry, I'll upload it again to other servers and I'll post them here together.
Glad you like it.

Since I couldn't sleep last night: http://sharebee.com/94e03333

would anyone be kind enough to send me the PDF please? ive tried to download it but keep hitting walls. id much appreciate it.  :icon_biggrin: which ever way is convenient, but my email is below if an attachment is suitable?

knealebrown@hotmail.co.uk

thanks in advance

The tutorial is great, but the pdf is a 20 Mb file.  I can't send any email that big and I have no way to host it. 

I will see if I can break it down into more manageable pieces.

Quote from: KazooMan on April 22, 2010, 06:13:12 PM

The tutorial is great, but the pdf is a 20 Mb file.  I can't send any email that big and I have no way to host it. 

I will see if I can break it down into more manageable pieces.

thanks KazooMan, is dropbox not an option? i use it all the time but have no idea what it maxes out at?

I'll try anything.  Give me instructions on how to use the dropbox to get it to you.

Hey Slade-today you saved my life!
Was looking for those multicolour-eeching and now I found that! Great!!! Like the style of your Blackbird Fuzz, awesome man.
Thanks!

I have reduced the file size to 1.7Mb and I could host it on my site, if Slade agrees?

Great tutorial!!! :)

You're welcome, guys, glad you like the tutorial.
merlinb, I think the quality of the pictures is really important, a 1,7MB file won't have that quality, but thanks anyway :icon_smile:

The Tutorial is now in my Dropbox, download it here:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/%5BTutorial%5D%20Making%20a%20Multicolor%20Etching.pdf

Regards,
Fernando.-

Quote from: Slade on October 04, 2010, 02:56:41 PM
merlinb, I think the quality of the pictures is really important, a 1,7MB file won't have that quality, but thanks anyway :icon_smile:

The quality is the same as the 10Mb version- the photos weren't that big.

merlinb, when you zoom on the PDF the photos don't get pixelated, I like that and that's why I made it a 20MB file :icon_biggrin:
Download 20MB is not really big effort if someone wants the tutorial.

Cheers!

I will end the issue once and for all and host it as a direct download from my webserver if slade says it is ok.

Quote from: Slade on October 04, 2010, 05:21:30 PM
merlinb, when you zoom on the PDF the photos don't get pixelated, I like that and that's why I made it a 20MB file :icon_biggrin:

I think you'd be surprised- there's nothing important lost in the photos!

Hey--

Is there a way to color both the etched AND un-etched sections? If there's a way, my pedal graphics life is set 4ever!

Thanks, julian

Quote from: diemilchmann on October 12, 2010, 08:18:23 PM
Hey--

Is there a way to color both the etched AND un-etched sections? If there's a way, my pedal graphics life is set 4ever!

Thanks, julian

I've been thinking about experimenting with a hard rubber roller. Paint the etched part, then roll over with paint on the hard roller for the raised part. Otherwise, I've not found a way.

very interesting... ill give it shot, thanks!

My first etch, made using the fantastic tutorial and some personal help from Etch Master Slade himself. I know my humble effort pales into insignificance alongside the interstellar work of The Great One. He is my Etch God and I worship at his etched alter. Slade! Slade! Slade! Slade!

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Etch%20Disciple/I%27m%20Scared.jpg)

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Etch%20Disciple/Toe%20nails%20too.jpg)

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Etch%20Disciple/Ooh%20my%20toes%20look%20girlie.jpg)

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Etch%20Disciple/My%20first%20born.jpg)

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Etch%20Disciple/Sanded%20drilled%20and%20painted.jpg)

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/LA%20Front.jpg)

nice rick ,i love an etch.... i'd lose the white washer imho   8)

Interesting.  :-\
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/ (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/)
**sigh**
I leave you guys alone for a few years and look what happens!
Congrats Slade, nice work!

Looks great .... Q ... why does everyone seem to hate white washers so much ???

MM.

Quote from: markm on October 17, 2010, 01:53:39 PM
Interesting.  :-\
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/ (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/)
**sigh**
I leave you guys alone for a few years and look what happens!
Congrats Slade, nice work!

OH. MY. GOD. MarkM! Are you back for good?

Quote from: MartyMart on October 17, 2010, 03:42:13 PM
Looks great .... Q ... why does everyone seem to hate white washers so much ???

MM.

i guess its a personal taste type thing...i just like the more industrial look.. :icon_cool:

upon looking closer...its probably coz of the little dig in the box...  ;)

Quote from: Barcode80 on October 17, 2010, 03:44:32 PM

Quote from: markm on October 17, 2010, 01:53:39 PM
Interesting.  :-\
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/ (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/)
**sigh**
I leave you guys alone for a few years and look what happens!
Congrats Slade, nice work!

OH. MY. GOD. MarkM! Are you back for good?

Nahhh.
I came to visit and found I have been de-throned!!  :icon_lol:
My personal life does not allow time for me to be here or mess with stompers as often as I would like but, I do like to pop in every now and then.
Everytime I do though it makes me feel over-the-hill!

Quote from: markm on October 17, 2010, 03:46:43 PM

Quote from: Barcode80 on October 17, 2010, 03:44:32 PM

Quote from: markm on October 17, 2010, 01:53:39 PM
Interesting.  :-\
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/ (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/)
**sigh**
I leave you guys alone for a few years and look what happens!
Congrats Slade, nice work!

OH. MY. GOD. MarkM! Are you back for good?

Nahhh.
I came to visit and found I have been de-throned!!  :icon_lol:
My personal life does not allow time for me to be here or mess with stompers as often as I would like but, I do like to pop in every now and then.
Everytime I do though it makes me feel over-the-hill!

Hopefully, you can make it a more frequent occurrance. You are sorely missed!

Oh Man, I miss it too.....more than you may think!
You're all good guys and there is a wealth of knowledge and information here.
I'm glad I can still log-in here!!
I'll leave you with this:

(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1034&g2_serialNumber=2)

I don't have words..
Your tutorial was an inspiration to start with etching, there's where I started and many others around the world too. I'm so glad to read some words from you! I just tried to make it even easier to do etchings by making a detailed step by step tutorial (because some members asked me to do it), never meant to de-throne you but thanks again for your kind words... oh, happy day :icon_biggrin:

Edit: That's a beautiful piece of work!!!!!

I sincerely mean you have done a fabulous job!
I don't know about this around the world stuff though, I'm gonna get blamed for ALOT of FeChl improperly disposed of!  :icon_rolleyes:
(Hey! I could always blame it on Jay Doyle since he isn't here!! {just kidding folks!  :icon_lol:}
As an "oldie" here now, and an infrequent visitor, I LOVE seeing someone continue on with some of the stuff we were doing many-moons ago now.
On the other hand, it makes me want to jump back into the hobby but, my time won't allow it right now. I haven't touched a soldering iron in over 2 years and I have turned down many oppurtunities in the stompbox world.
Maybe someday aye?
Anyway, like I said.....GREAT WORK and keep it going!
I admire your work as it it very well done.
  MarkM

I might be mistaken here but, has anyone else noticed that Slade talks in his tutorial about TONER transfer however, he shows a picture of the transfer paper he uses and it says it is for INKJET printers.  ???

Slade.... Are you using inkjet paper in a laser printer for your transfers?

While you have a high glossy paper it's not important if it's recommended for inkjet or laser printers. The toner transfer needs a glossy paper... you can even do it with some magazine paper, I only showed what I use to do it ;)

Quote from: Slade on October 22, 2010, 02:36:16 PM
While you have a high glossy paper it's not important if it's recommended for inkjet or laser printers. The toner transfer needs a glossy paper... you can even do it with some magazine paper, I only showed what I use to do it ;)

Wow.. Thanks for the heads up Slade! I know you are the aforemost expert in the enclosure etching area.  ;)

Are there any specific recommendations that you have for the paper? I tried using PnP blue last night and i failed miserably. I downloaded and read your tutorial and I think it was all about the transfer media I used. I probably cannot get the EXACT paper you use however, that is why I am asking for the info about the paper. Any particular brand? The weight should be 180 correct?

Thanks for everything. I merely want to become a humble etch servant like Rick!  :D

Some varaible I discovered while attempting (and failing) to etch.

• The first laser printer I tried didn't want to play. It was a colour printer, but could be set to black only. The toner just didn't want to transfer. I changed to a monochrome-only printer and straight away got good results. Slade recommends only to use a monochrome printer, somehow the toner is different.
• A flat surface is EVERYTHING.
• Timing is very important. It's possible to cook the toner with too much heat at the start, then however much heat you use after, and for however long, nothing will happen.
• Read the tutorial a few times
• Slade is all-knowing, all-seeing. Omniscient

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 02:56:22 PM
Some varaible I discovered while attempting (and failing) to etch.

• The first laser printer I tried didn't want to play. It was a colour printer, but could be set to black only. The toner just didn't want to transfer. I changed to a monochrome-only printer and straight away got good results. Slade recommends only to use a monochrome printer, somehow the toner is different.
• A flat surface is EVERYTHING.
• Timing is very important. It's possible to cook the toner with too much heat at the start, then however much heat you use after, and for however long, nothing will happen.
• Read the tutorial a few times
• Slade is all-knowing, all-seeing. Omniscient

Thanks for the tips Rick. Any ideas about paper recommendations or paper characteristics to follow?

I used 190gsm high gloss inkjet paper. Nothing special or expensive. I bought a 2000W iron, 3 minutes set to minimum heat just resting on the paper to heat the toner. Then the paper is pretty much stuck to the box, the masking tape peels off due to the heat. Then I ironed very hard from every direction for 6 minutes on maximum heat, loads of pressure, the paper won't move.

.......and remember to think about Slade as you transfer, he will watch over you as you work so long as you observe every tenet of his dogma. Maybe consider wearing a t-shirt with his holy image on it too. It'll help.

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:13:27 PM
I used 190gsm high gloss inkjet paper. Nothing special or expensive. I bought a 2000W iron, 3 minutes set to minimum heat just resting on the paper to heat the toner. Then the paper is pretty much stuck to the box, the masking tape peels off due to the heat. Then I ironed very hard from every direction for 6 minutes on maximum heat, loads of pressure, the paper won't move.

So.... just to make sure I am correct. I will be printing the toner from the LASER printer onto the INKJET high gloss 190 gsm paper? Is this right? Everything else is pretty straight forward. Thanks for the help  ;)

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:13:27 PM
.......and remember to think about Slade as you transfer, he will watch over you as you work so long as you observe every tenet of his dogma. Maybe consider wearing a t-shirt with his holy image on it too. It'll help.

Maybe a continuous yet silent chant in my mind would be just what is needed for a good etch. (Slade is all knowing... Slade is all powerful... Slade is the Etch Master!)  ;D

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 22, 2010, 03:24:41 PM

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:13:27 PM
I used 190gsm high gloss inkjet paper. Nothing special or expensive. I bought a 2000W iron, 3 minutes set to minimum heat just resting on the paper to heat the toner. Then the paper is pretty much stuck to the box, the masking tape peels off due to the heat. Then I ironed very hard from every direction for 6 minutes on maximum heat, loads of pressure, the paper won't move.

So.... just to make sure I am correct. I will be printing the toner from the LASER printer onto the INKJET high gloss 190 gsm paper? Is this right? Everything else is pretty straight forward. Thanks for the help  ;)

Correct! A MONOCHROME laser printer according to the sacred word of Slade.

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 22, 2010, 03:24:41 PM

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:13:27 PM
.......and remember to think about Slade as you transfer, he will watch over you as you work so long as you observe every tenet of his dogma. Maybe consider wearing a t-shirt with his holy image on it too. It'll help.

Maybe a continuous yet silent chant in my mind would be just what is needed for a good etch. (Slade is all knowing... Slade is all powerful... Slade is the Etch Master!)  ;D

I use this chant: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRsekFYkCDM

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:31:15 PM

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 22, 2010, 03:24:41 PM

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:13:27 PM
I used 190gsm high gloss inkjet paper. Nothing special or expensive. I bought a 2000W iron, 3 minutes set to minimum heat just resting on the paper to heat the toner. Then the paper is pretty much stuck to the box, the masking tape peels off due to the heat. Then I ironed very hard from every direction for 6 minutes on maximum heat, loads of pressure, the paper won't move.

So.... just to make sure I am correct. I will be printing the toner from the LASER printer onto the INKJET high gloss 190 gsm paper? Is this right? Everything else is pretty straight forward. Thanks for the help  ;)

Correct! A MONOCHROME laser printer according to the sacred word of Slade.

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 22, 2010, 03:24:41 PM

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:13:27 PM
.......and remember to think about Slade as you transfer, he will watch over you as you work so long as you observe every tenet of his dogma. Maybe consider wearing a t-shirt with his holy image on it too. It'll help.

Maybe a continuous yet silent chant in my mind would be just what is needed for a good etch. (Slade is all knowing... Slade is all powerful... Slade is the Etch Master!)  ;D

I use this chant: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRsekFYkCDM

Great. I got the instructions. I got the chant  :D Now I just need to find the paper. I found some at the office supply store but, I am having a hard time finding some with a rating below 225g/m2

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:31:15 PM

Correct! A MONOCHROME laser printer according to the sacred word of Slade.

Ah crapsocks. I just bought a colour laser printer to do graphics and labels and shizz. Didn't realise that it might not do toner transfer as well. Gave the mono one away. I'll try an etch over the weekend.

Quote from: markeebee on October 22, 2010, 04:47:39 PM

Quote from: frequencycentral on October 22, 2010, 03:31:15 PM

Correct! A MONOCHROME laser printer according to the sacred word of Slade.

Ah crapsocks. I just bought a colour laser printer to do graphics and labels and shizz. Didn't realise that it might not do toner transfer as well. Gave the mono one away. I'll try an etch over the weekend.

In my old school opinion, and not being an etch expert, I would suggest a laser copier not a printer as alot of the printer toners are not going to work well at all.............as many of you have discovered!
I used to use an office copier and achieved tremendous results.
PnP Blue will work fantastic with this type of toner as this is what it was originally designed for.
PnP Blue can produce fine details like this but, I don't know, maybe you youngins can acheive the same with shiny glossy paper?!


(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=979&g2_serialNumber=3)

Any body tried etching using Pulsar paper? If it works for PCBs it should work for enclosures.

I don't think the problems are with our papers........its  all about finding the right toner that will stick well.

I've also played with the iron's temp. for my paper and toner combination, I have to set the heat at 3/4 of the way ....... hotter then this I don't get good results.

i am thinking about doing some etching but using spray paint and stencils!do you think that will work?anyone tried it? ;)

hi tasos, it probably will be ok,...the etchant wont eat through the paint...

Hi there!

Today i tried Slade's guide to etch my enclosure.
I used perhydrol 50% (h2o2) with hydrochloric acid like i do to etch my pcbs.The problem is that my letters and the pictures on the enclosure are not deep enough.what is the problem? i used many ratios between perhydrol and hydrocholic acid (1-4)-(1-1) but i couldn't go deep enough.
It is like the mixture is not strong enough to etch the aluminium.I had it in about an hour and it had stopped in a standar deep and then nothing.
Can you please help me?

Thanks.

I'm sorry to read that but I know about many guys from Europe that can't get good results or deep etches because of the acid they're using. I've not experience with any other kind of acids or about solutions, I just use a prepared solution that attacks the aluminium really hard.

what prepared solution you use ?i have found FERRIC CHLORIDE GRANULES in a shop.is it the same with yours ?
Thank you by the way for the turtorial.

ferric granules..(orange balls) .yep thats what i use...great results with a good strong mix... :icon_cool:

thanks for your answers  :) Today i used ferric granules in a mix 1 part water and 3/4 granules.I can't say it was strong enough because it took me about 30 minutes to etch my enclosure.What mix are you using?I saw at the pictures that slade's ferric was much more darker than mine and i suppose it would be much more stronger!I will post some photos later to see my first attempt.

Quote from: dromilious on April 09, 2011, 08:29:19 AM
thanks for your answers  :) Today i used ferric granules in a mix 1 part water and 3/4 granules.I can't say it was strong enough because it took me about 30 minutes to etch my enclosure.What mix are you using?I saw at the pictures that slade's ferric was much more darker than mine and i suppose it would be much more stronger!I will post some photos later to see my first attempt.

i use the orange balls but instead of water i use aqueous solution of hydrochloric acid [10%]

Quote from: tasos on April 09, 2011, 09:27:09 AM

Quote from: dromilious on April 09, 2011, 08:29:19 AM
thanks for your answers  :) Today i used ferric granules in a mix 1 part water and 3/4 granules.I can't say it was strong enough because it took me about 30 minutes to etch my enclosure.What mix are you using?I saw at the pictures that slade's ferric was much more darker than mine and i suppose it would be much more stronger!I will post some photos later to see my first attempt.

i use the orange balls but instead of water i use aqueous solution of hydrochloric acid [10%]

yep i use the orange balls...but  warm water...fizz'z like .... :icon_wink:

pdf in the first post doesn't exist... help please

Quote from: ampsmaster on March 08, 2012, 06:44:28 AM
pdf in the first post doesn't exist... help please

Page 4 ,Post#75
You lazy boy! ;D

DOWNLOAD LINK

DOWNLOAD LINK

RIGHT CLICK -> SAVE AS... (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/%5BTutorial%5D%20Making%20a%20Multicolor%20Etching.pdf)

;)

Quote from: markm on October 24, 2010, 09:39:02 AM
In my old school opinion, and not being an etch expert, I would suggest a laser copier not a printer as alot of the printer toners are not going to work well at all.............as many of you have discovered!
I used to use an office copier and achieved tremendous results.
PnP Blue will work fantastic with this type of toner as this is what it was originally designed for.
PnP Blue can produce fine details like this but, I don't know, maybe you youngins can acheive the same with shiny glossy paper?!

Man, the laser printer in my office is suck.  The copier may have the right toner, but the copies, even at darkest setting, are not solid black... I subscribed to the free Front of House magazine so I'd have an endless supply of glossy paper, but the toner printer or copier at my disposal is bunk.

I want to etch so bad that I made this the other day by cutting electrical tape... <sigh>
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/electapefuzz.jpg)

CHAD

cool, it worked though eh!!!...looks good to me!!!!... :icon_cool:

now if we were all sign writers we could do some fantastic etches using paint... :icon_cool:

you've got to find someone with a laser printer man!....in fact they aren't really that expensive, i bought mine new with the toner for £50.00

i got sick of having to wait till my secretary(wife) came home from work with my prints... :D..its reall handy for knocking up a pcb etc...

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 08, 2012, 11:47:11 AM
cool, it worked though eh!!!...looks good to me!!!!... :icon_cool:

now if we were all sign writers we could do some fantastic etches using paint... :icon_cool:

you've got to find someone with a laser printer man!....in fact they aren't really that expensive, i bought mine new with the toner for £50.00

i got sick of having to wait till my secretary(wife) came home from work with my prints... :D..its reall handy for knocking up a pcb etc...

Totally true!
However i print at photocopy shops ;)
Can't wait to get a laser printer! :'(

Hi folks:) My first post on this forum, i have been lurkin' around a few month' though. I got this thread recommended from a user on Madbeans diy-place. This thread and its author Slade is absolutely brilliant.

Anyway, i just finished the etching part of my first etched box, all guided by Slades tutorial. And i like to share a few pics of the work, as well as one disastrous mistake i must have made on the way. Here we go:

After a few tries with different papers and minutes with the iron, i ended up ironing about 20 minutes, and a photo paper from the local bookstore (pretty much the same as Slade recommends, i think. 200 gsm). Then toner transferred well, and i could put it in the etching bath. I have never etched anything before, so i basically read around internet on what fluid to use. I think (?) most of you guys use Iron tri-Chloride (correct spelled? not sure of the english term, im a swede), so i looked all over for it, but couldnt find a place near to buy it. I ended up using "Kaustik Soda" (again, spelling. Its NaOH, everyone here has a bottle of it in the cleaning cupboard), and the etching part went really well for a first try:). I had the box in the bath for four minutes, then i masked the small letters and let it etch for two more minutes:

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10190945/MetHell/IMG_0368.JPG)

Then painting and drilling. At this point i am perfectly happy with the result (even though i DO have some problem centerring the drilling holes. I use a handheld drill, and simply cant do it better..).

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10190945/MetHell/IMG_0370.JPG)

Then... disaster! I decided to clearcoat the thing (is that a beginners mistake? or... do you guys do or dont do it etched enclosures? So far i have clearcoated everything i have boxed) and i dont know what happened... The black color "rise" in the clearcoat and pretty much destroys the whole artwork completely. I dont know why. Maybe residue (black color or aluminum particles?) from the sandpapering? Or maybe i clearcoated it too fast, and it had water/alcohol rests in the etched parts? Im not sure. If any of you guys have a hint about how to avoid this happening again, im a happy reader for sure. Til then, i wont clearcoat my etchings;) Anyway, heres the pic: 

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10190945/MetHell/IMG_0372.JPG)

... so i had to get back to sandpaper it all over. I tried to be very careful, and hope to keep the most of the black color. The result is not exactly as good as it was before my blunder though. Result:

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10190945/MetHell/IMG_0374.JPG)

***

Well... i guess i will come back with some more pic when i have filled the box interior. It will look more "complete" then.

Cheers
/Bengt
Sweden

Quote from: Vallhagen on June 02, 2012, 03:53:27 PM
Hi folks:) My first post on this forum, i have been lurkin' around a few month' though. I got this thread recommended from a user on Madbeans diy-place. This thread and its author Slade is absolutely brilliant.

Anyway, i just finished the etching part of my first etched box, all guided by Slades tutorial. And i like to share a few pics of the work, as well as one disastrous mistake i must have made on the way. Here we go:

After a few tries with different papers and minutes with the iron, i ended up ironing about 20 minutes, and a photo paper from the local bookstore (pretty much the same as Slade recommends, i think. 200 gsm). Then toner transferred well, and i could put it in the etching bath. I have never etched anything before, so i basically read around internet on what fluid to use. I think (?) most of you guys use Iron tri-Chloride (correct spelled? not sure of the english term, im a swede), so i looked all over for it, but couldnt find a place near to buy it. I ended up using "Kaustik Soda" (again, spelling. Its NaOH, everyone here has a bottle of it in the cleaning cupboard), and the etching part went really well for a first try:). I had the box in the bath for four minutes, then i masked the small letters and let it etch for two more minutes:


Then painting and drilling. At this point i am perfectly happy with the result (even though i DO have some problem centerring the drilling holes. I use a handheld drill, and simply cant do it better..).


Then... disaster! I decided to clearcoat the thing (is that a beginners mistake? or... do you guys do or dont do it etched enclosures? So far i have clearcoated everything i have boxed) and i dont know what happened... The black color "rise" in the clearcoat and pretty much destroys the whole artwork completely. I dont know why. Maybe residue (black color or aluminum particles?) from the sandpapering? Or maybe i clearcoated it too fast, and it had water/alcohol rests in the etched parts? Im not sure. If any of you guys have a hint about how to avoid this happening again, im a happy reader for sure. Til then, i wont clearcoat my etchings;) Anyway, heres the pic: 


... so i had to get back to sandpaper it all over. I tried to be very careful, and hope to keep the most of the black color. The result is not exactly as good as it was before my blunder though. Result:


Well... i guess i will come back with some more pic when i have filled the box interior. It will look more "complete" then.

Cheers
/Bengt
Sweden

Any time you use a clear coat over an undercoat which use the same solvent, you risk some bleed.  For me, working on guitars and other wood, the easiest solution is usually to spray a coat of super blond shellac, which sticks to everything, and will usually keep the bleed from happening.  (Bleed isn't always a bad thing, though.  We use it deliberately on sunbursts, as it softens and evens out the fade.)  The other thing that will cause problems is spraying your topcoat too soon.  The base layer needs to be completely dry.


Gabriel

"Any time you use a clear coat over an undercoat which use the same solvent, you risk some bleed" ...


Thank you Gabriel.

They say you learn something every day, this day i learnt from You:)

Cheers
Bengt

that looks awesome

:)

...and to round off my participation in this thread (at least so far); here's a pic of the final box. It's the MadBean Chunk Chunk (known around here as dr Boogey, right?)

Cheers, and sorry for mediocre photo quality:)

(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10190945/MetHell/001.JPG)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10190945/MetHell/002.JPG)

First etch?
Wow, I should start selling this tutorial...

:icon_lol:

Congrats, and glad you liked the tutorial!

Quote from: Slade on June 07, 2012, 06:29:29 PM
First etch?
Wow, I should start selling this tutorial...

:icon_lol:

Congrats, and glad you liked the tutorial!

Hey, is this a compliment from Theee mr Slade Himself?!! ;) ;D ... Thanx.

And i am perfectly honest; I have read through more than one and two instructions / manuals / tutorials on different topics over the years, and your tutorial is by all means brilliant. Really.

If i could wish for one thing, it would be that you somewhere in the text tell what etchant you use (maybe as a chemical formula too, it can cause misunderstandings to translate chemistry terminology). I had to do some research to choose etchant, though that sub-subject is partly covered in this thread.

Cheers! Keep up the good work!

Hi all,
I have questions, maybe you guys can explain it to me...

1. When you print the monochrome design to high glossy photo paper 180grm/m2,
    should i erase those white areas empty in the design or just let it be white
    and it will be separated by itself from the black areas when the photo paper is peeled after 13 minutes of ironing ?
2. What if i use food acid + salt + 9 volt DC current to etch ?

The first question is important for me. Many thanks.

hi roger,

white areas are the areas to be etched, ...(where the ferric chloride eats into.) bear this in mind with your design. , you cannot print white, and remember to reverse the image  too.  ;)

never tried salt etc...

i would stick with ferric chloride.

use nail varnish on parts you don't want etched...border etc..

Quote from: deadastronaut on May 17, 2013, 07:26:28 AM
hi roger,

white areas are the areas to be etched, ...(where the ferric chloride eats into.) bear this in mind with your design. , you cannot print white, and remember to reverse the image  too.  ;)

never tried salt etc...

i would stick with ferric chloride.

use nail varnish on parts you don't want etched...border etc..

Hi Rob,
Superb answers for a newbie like me  :icon_biggrin:
You gave a nice conclusion idea of what to do.
I thought this was going to get quite a long time before somebody answers this, but you are quick.
Thank you Rob  :icon_biggrin:

your very welcome... 8)

This is good Sh*t!!

I have just successfully 'toner-transferred' my first ever design to my enclosure this morning (took several attempts, ended up leaving it under the iron for 23 minutes before I could get it to stick reasonably well, first attempt at 10 minutes was awful, second attempt at 15 minutes wasn't much better). Now I am happy with the result, and all masked and taped.

I thought I had better have a re-read of this thread before attempting to etch, and am glad I did; I noticed that Ammonium Persulphate does not work on die cast enclosures.

I have spent all day trying to track down ferric chloride on the Gold Coast, Australia without much luck. Is there another chemical that will do the job?

lmorse, altronics has ferric listed as "H0800" for 12.95$. "Prime Electronics, 11 Warehouse Rd, gold coast" is listed as a distributer. try them.

failing that, get yourself down here to sydney and I'll give you a bucket full. I'm not using it.

Cool, thanks Duck. Will check them out.
No Sydney trips in the near future I'm afraid.  :(

if you get really stuck, shoot me a pm, I'll see what we can do.