introducing the 'SPITFIRE' metal 'n' blues pedal....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%20LAYOUT.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%20PCB.pdf
enjoy.....\m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
its been a lot of late nights, blood, sweat 'n' tantrums and lots of whisky drinking...but its done...(unverified as yet!..) ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 10, 2011, 11:18:58 AM
introducing the 'SPITFIRE' metal 'n' blues pedal....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%20LAYOUT.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%20PCB.pdf
enjoy.....\m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
its been a lot of late nights, blood, sweat 'n' tantrums and lots of whisky drinking...but its done...(unverified as yet!..) ;)
Does it have a MERLIN transistor ( engine) in it ? :icon_mrgreen:
of course...merlin fets.. ;)
Any sound samples?
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 10, 2011, 11:18:58 AM
its been a lot of late nights, blood, sweat 'n' tantrums and lots of whisky drinking...but its done...(unverified as yet!..) ;)
Tantrums or Tantalums :)
@rob..both.. :)
clips
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/bsoab2.mp3 through marshall avt 275 clean channel...sh*t mic.. ::)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/funkycapmod.mp3 ....through my crappy stereo..no amp... ::)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/hillagefuzz1.mp3 ...through my crappy stereo again, no amp...but you get the idea... :icon_twisted:
sounds nice. What are the transistors?
j201's.... :icon_twisted:
note: using an ibanez rg470....HSH
nice sounds very british to me, but i like it!
So what does the final schematic look like? I'll probably vero it.
Quote from: arawn on November 10, 2011, 12:32:37 PM
nice sounds very british to me, but i like it!
Yes, I'm willing to overlook the british part, as it sounds nice. :D
Cool stuff Rob!
But is this for Slayer or Christian rock? ??? :icon_lol:
Crunchy! Thanks!
I hear Battler Britton! But like brand new engine and that´s holy blue smokin something!!!
Great Rob! Thanks!
Have to build it this weekend... :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: John Lyons on November 10, 2011, 10:35:10 PM
Quote from: arawn on November 10, 2011, 12:32:37 PM
nice sounds very british to me, but i like it!
Yes, I'm willing to overlook the british part, as it sounds nice. :D
Cool stuff Rob!
But is this for Slayer or Christian rock? ??? :icon_lol:
@john: its only to be used for gay right wing disabled islamic extremist rock ...... ;D
@all, you racist anti
English infidels. :(......... :D
@maik, go for it, i etched n drilled my pcb last night, got stuff to do today ::), but should have it up n running by the weekend...end.... ;)
oh yeah i'll sort the schemo out for you inferior veroboarder infidels.. :icon_mrgreen:..
edit: hold on, i think ive missed a switch connection...@#$%!...back i n a bit.. ::)
ok, pdf's above updated...all sorted ok.. ;)
heres the schemo... (switch 3 will be an (on/on/on.IIRC, so you have a setting on each.)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spitfieschematic.jpg)
To make it more realistic i would add an accelerometer chip to cut out the output on negative Gs ;) Box it in a nice elliptic enclosure and put next to a yellow 109 Germanium overdrive ;) Nice sounds!
Yowsah!
All my life I've been searching for a Funk switch........
Does it make you funky even if your not? ;)
For some time around here, there has been a school of thought that is demonstrated by the switchable EQ concept. It is, that the circuit used to produce the clipping isn't as important at the EQ. Here we have one of the more popular clipping generators i.e. the dual mu-amp, with 2 separate EQ stages that are switchable that are specifically tweaked for 2 different types of sounds. Very Cool. ;)
@wgtp: of course...but you must wear flares when you touch that toggle :icon_cool: .... edit: thanks man,you helped point me in the right direction.....appreciate it!... ;)
and yep its all about EQ...
@mark:glad to oblige .
@anyone: i'm tinkering with getting the layout smaller width wise, ....its a bit of a filing squeeze into a 1590b....it does fit though, i'm just a fussy bugger.. ::)
i'm on it.... :icon_twisted:
Preliminary vero layout, looks Ok but might have some errors. The component numbering follows the schematic. Once I've built it I'll tidy it up and add the components values and stuff.
(http://www.eskimo.plus.com/fxstuff/spitfireboard.jpg)
Quote from: slacker on November 13, 2011, 12:37:11 PM
Preliminary vero layout, looks Ok but might have some errors. The component numbering follows the schematic. Once I've built it I'll tidy it up and add the components values and stuff.
Very Nice. I spent an hour or so last night trying to convert Torchys BSIAB II vero to Spitfire specs. I think it will work, but yours are much better. Thanks
Regards
Carsten
good stuff guys... heres spitfire layout #2...fits a 1590b nicer...spaced it out a bit more.....widened the pads for the diode too......
i'm etching this now, will build tommorow..... ;)
@carsten: this was initially based off the bsiab-x russian extreme version....not the standard bsiab..
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%232.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREPCB%232.pdf
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 13, 2011, 02:57:23 PM
good stuff guys... heres spitfire layout #2...fits a 1590b nicer...spaced it out a bit more.....widened the pads for the diode too......
@carsten: this was initially based off the bsiab-x russian extreme version....not the standard bsiab..
I know, but that was the vero layout i had :icon_smile: However, it would propably have been easier to start from scratch, like Slacker.
Carsten
etch , drilled, populated my pcb with exact breadboard components i was using... (layout #2) ...
wiring up today!.... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 10, 2011, 11:18:58 AM
introducing the 'SPITFIRE' metal 'n' blues pedal....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%20LAYOUT.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIRE%20PCB.pdf
enjoy.....\m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
its been a lot of late nights, blood, sweat 'n' tantrums and lots of whisky drinking...but its done...(unverified as yet!..) ;)
Nice one Rob!
It's what I'd do, I think that's obvious ... lol... :icon_redface: :icon_razz:
[redface razz]...if I was as inclined as you to design/build/retweek a dual Mu blues/metal monster !
I have appreciation for the 'effeciency' of it...basically two kinds of pedals [dirty boost and metal, eq'd] in one !
I also see you've incorporated the noiseless biasing [also makes neater board]...cool lookin' schematic...I haven't fell into temptation recently [soldering irons and mess put away], but this one's beconing me to drag out the pedalbuilding hardware once again !
^ blow the dust off that iron pete!... ;)
ok i've built it...(layout#2)...it works ....but, i may have a problem with my switching, its working but seems like its 'sucking', a bit like a fuzz,
it hasn't got the distortion/s punch and clarity like i had on breadboard...
the sustain switch isn't doing anything..that should connect/disconnect the C1 yes?..
modern/classic is doing something , but like i say its not distortion, just a muffled type of fuzz..
A: could someone please confirm which switches i should be using?..
B: here are my voltages: anything weird to you guys?...
Q1:
G 0.00
S 0.28
D 4.95
Q2
G 4.32
S 4.95
D 9.10
Q3
G 4.14
S 4.95
D 9.10
Q4
G 0.00
S 0.37
D 4.95
Q5
G 4.95
S 5.00
D 9.11
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spitfirejpeg.jpg)
Not much help, but the layout looks correct to me, matches the schematic at any rate, and the voltages look like what I'd expect for the circuit.
For the switches you want a SPDT On/On for the modern/classic, that will give you 2 settings one for each cap.
For the Blues/funk/hicut/fuzz you want a SPDT On/Off/On. One of the On settings connects C9 and the other connects C2, the middle position connects neither of them. I think that's how you want it to work anyway.
Just waiting for some J201s to arrive before I start mine.
cheers ian, i'll have a poke around...ive triple checked the layout too, all seems ok..
and the switches i have..
i'll resolder a few joints and see how it goes...
it must be something on the pcb i think, as the tone is being weird too.....loud at one end, which i did resolve on the layout/bread etc...
cheers man!. 8)
p.s your c3 is a 1uf electro ;)
VERIFIED!...WHOOOOOHOOOO....!!!!... ;D
(layout #2)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/th_smiley_emoticons_ozboss_gitarre3.gif)
@ian: i sorted it, there was a miniscule line of solder cutting across a trace....the usual @#$%er eh!.. ;)
all working great now...its late now, but i'll do a video demo tomorrow through my amp!!!!....i can go to sleep happy now!.. :icon_twisted:
here she is in all her glory!...(prototype, i used a box i etched ages ago)... :icon_twisted:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P161111_00.22.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P161111_00.19.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P161111_00.19%5B01%5D.jpg)
That enclosure is sick man... Guts!
as promised...sorry no guts at the moment...will do asap... ;)
Rob,
Any thoughts regarding the use of 2n5458 fets instead of yer 2n5457s? I've got Vgs' ranging from 1.23 - to 1.89. 6 groups of 4 within that spread.
Thanks,
Adam
Albany, Oregon
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 16, 2011, 01:21:36 PM
as promised...sorry no guts at the moment...will do asap... ;)
Wow! :o I think you out did your self on this one. Sounds killer :icon_twisted: Great job Rob.
@adam, i used j201's for all 5 fets..., i guess if you socket them you can try em...!..
@paully, cheers man, yeah a lot of work, but well worth it....i spent nearly 3 months on this @#$%er, trying out various tone controls, all the usual suspects
bmp,bax,endless tsc'ing etc etc...but i didn't like any of em..i wanted something that had that deepness there, but not 'flabby', and taking into account the bass that an actual amp 'n' cab gives too..
i like it better than my boogie now!...i did a comparison test and the spitfire has more sustain, and better feel under your fingers...more versatile too....very 8)
i like the way it makes even an ibanez HSH sound like a fender if you want it too...i love it!..
anyway...glad thats done...i'm off on my next mad project now!... :icon_twisted:
I've been messing with the Duncan Tonestack and trying to sim your final design, took me awhile to get my head around it. If you use the BMP, set the Zsrc (impedance) at 1k, since the input of the stack is set by the output of the Jfet buffer in front of it. Then set R2 at 100M to effectively be infinity and remove it from the circuit. IIRC you indicated that C15 in your design rolled off the bass, so let's forget it for now and focus on the midrange and treble.
It appears at one extreme to act as a low pass filter, removing most of the treble. On the other extreme it has max treble with a 10db notch centered around 350Hz. At 50% or 12 O'clock, it reduces the treble around 6db and the notch moves up to around 475Hz. Does that sound about right?
That is for the Modern setting. Using the 6.8n cap in the Classic setting produces a notch that is around 8 db and 100Hz lower.
I also used the James version with C15 and it came out the same, but that is more complicated to use. I need to figure out some real sim software. ;)
The cap values in the actual distortion also affect the feel and EQ, as well as the tone control settings on your amp.
Great Box.
Mods. For around 3db more notch, change C8 to 3.3n and R13 to 12k.
For even more notch change C8 to 2.2n and R13 to 17k.
As Aron always says, use sockets. :icon_smile:
Thanks for the inspirational undertaking. ;)
@wgtp: i'm not too au fait with translating facts n figures into what i can/should hear as i'm just a tinkerer rather than any kind of EE, but it sounds like you've been a busy bee!...cool.
have you a comparison chart (pics of tsc sweeps) to compare before/after?.....or get ya breadboard out and give us some clippies of before after, (i don't have it on bread now)...... :icon_wink:
Rob man, this is plain AWESOME! I wish I had time to build one though :icon_cry:
but it really rocks! my fav clip was the second one :D
Quote from: slacker on November 13, 2011, 12:37:11 PM
Preliminary vero layout, looks Ok but might have some errors. The component numbering follows the schematic. Once I've built it I'll tidy it up and add the components values and stuff.
(http://www.eskimo.plus.com/fxstuff/spitfireboard.jpg)
Ian,
I just spent some time checking your vero. The layout seems fine, but I think that the labels on C2 and C4 are switched. Also a label for input is missing.
I am very impressed how compact it is.
Regards
Carsten
I haven't figured out how to post the Duncan Tonestack graphs on here, but it is easy to plug the values I listed into it. ;)
Quote from: WGTP on November 18, 2011, 01:16:49 PM
I haven't figured out how to post the Duncan Tonestack graphs on here, but it is easy to plug the values I listed into it. ;)
cool, go for it... :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 17, 2011, 04:23:55 AM
i like the way it makes even an ibanez HSH sound like a fender if you want it too...i love it!..
I could have sworn I heard a fender strat in there somewhere!
Sounds great, I really like that sound. A lot of detail from the guitar is coming through.
Definitely on my build list.
Quote from: cab42 on November 18, 2011, 09:00:36 AM
I just spent some time checking your vero. The layout seems fine, but I think that the labels on C2 and C4 are switched. Also a label for input is missing.
Thanks for looking it over, yes you're right C2 and C4 are switched. I'll correct that and add the input.
Quote
I am very impressed how compact it is.
Thanks, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. Hopefully I should get some time to build it next week.
Quote from: Ronan on November 18, 2011, 04:16:46 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 17, 2011, 04:23:55 AM
i like the way it makes even an ibanez HSH sound like a fender if you want it too...i love it!..
I could have sworn I heard a fender strat in there somewhere!
Sounds great, I really like that sound. A lot of detail from the guitar is coming through.
Definitely on my build list.
yeah its definately got that fender-ish sound option in there even with humbuckers....go for it..you won't be disappointed... :icon_twisted:
Quick question Rob, I'm starting to put this together and I've just noticed C7 is a different value on the schematic and the latest layout, 2n2 versus 22n, could you just confirm which one is correct. Cheers.
hi ian, yep C7 is a 2.2nf....
i'll sort it...
Cheers Rob. Just finished building it, my layout is a bit tight but it works.
(http://www.eskimo.plus.com/fxstuff/spitfire.jpg)
Sounds fecking amazing :icon_twisted:
I like that sound! How does it sound with a Lightwah in front of it?
@ian: nice one!.. yeah its great!... :icon_twisted:....drilled ya box yet?.....edit: so you didn't use a C3 electrolytic 1uf then.!..
@james: ive tried it with lightwah, morley classic and a cry baby....all good!... :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 21, 2011, 06:55:03 PM
....drilled ya box yet?.....edit: so you didn't use a C3 electrolytic 1uf then.!..
No box yet, just wanted to get it built to see what it sounded like and make sure the layout was Ok. I didn't have any 1uF electros so I used some 1uF ceramics that I had lying around, they're the two yellow caps.
Had to do the Classic/Modern differently as well because I didn't have any 6n8 caps, rewired it so the 4n7 is always in the circuit, the switch then puts a 2n2 in parallel with it for 6n8, well 6n9 but that's close enough for rock n roll :)
Quote from: slacker on November 22, 2011, 12:40:17 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 21, 2011, 06:55:03 PM
....drilled ya box yet?.....edit: so you didn't use a C3 electrolytic 1uf then.!..
rewired it so the 4n7 is always in the circuit, the switch then puts a 2n2 in parallel with it for 6n8, well 6n9 but that's close enough for rock n roll :)
good idea!...now why didn't i think of that!... ::) ;)...cool glad it works ok... \m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
demo of the spitfire with cry baby GCB-95: straight into mixer..no amp:
Damn, son! Hot playing (as usual)! :icon_biggrin:
:tony, cheers man, ....i love it. i'll have to try a full tone stack on it too next!... :icon_twisted:..
Sounds great, my friends birthday is just around the corner I could build this one for him. Though I think he would like more gain. Would BF 245c transistors produce more gain than J201's? He is into Chris Broderick, Alex Skolnick and similar type of guitar players, but he also plays in a death metal band, could you give me an advice on how to get more gain out of this amazing pedal?
Quote from: JebemMajke on December 12, 2011, 07:45:06 AM
Sounds great, my friends birthday is just around the corner I could build this one for him. Though I think he would like more gain. Would BF 245c transistors produce more gain than J201's? He is into Chris Broderick, Alex Skolnick and similar type of guitar players, but he also plays in a death metal band, could you give me an advice on how to get more gain out of this amazing pedal?
BF245 will not give more gain .
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94902.msg820158#msg820158 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94902.msg820158#msg820158)
OK, no ups in gain with BF245. Since i don't have time to order and wait for j201 and I do have lots of BF245 (a,b,c) around can i just use them instead or would i have to bias it differently? And again the same question how to get more gain out of this pedal? :)
Quote from: JebemMajke on December 12, 2011, 09:00:11 AM
OK, no ups in gain with BF245. Since i don't have time to order and wait for j201 and I do have lots of BF245 (a,b,c) around can i just use them instead or would i have to bias it differently? And again the same question how to get more gain out of this pedal? :)
You could use the same bias , but the gain will drop 25% .
I'm afraid i don't know , J201 are the highest gain FETS i know ... i believe .
The Spitfire is tuned to have lots of treble boost thru the circuit and then roll it off at the end. There isn't much left to boost the highs except the R6 change. You can tweak the 2.2nf caps at the end for treble adjustment, but it won't effect the gain. I would start with changing R6 to 100k as this should boost all frequencies. Then try the others. The others changes will mostly boost mids and lows.
Suggestions to increase gain that will also alter the tonal balance. They could also increase oscillation problems:
Change C6 to 68nf or 100nf - more bass
Change R6 to 100k or a 470pf/470k resistor network - more highs
Change C3 and/or C7 to 4.7/10uf - more mids and bass
^what dave and wgtp said:...
imo j201's are the best!...if using other fets you might wanna breadboard it, and experiment.
i think it has plenty of gain, its the eq adjustment like wgtp said really that'll make it 'seem' like theres more gain , and going by my lengthy experiments with different tone controls too i found that to be true!....
Question for Rob (or anyone else who knows)...
Why are R1 (560k) and R8 (1M) different? Aren't they both there just hanging off of the 10k divider to bias Q1 and Q3 to 1/2 9V?
Edit: Also, why a 10k divider? Wouldn't a 100k divider work here?
i just went by the russian version setup..and altered the 510k to 560k....
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93909.msg808943#msg808943
no idea on the actual purpose though... :-\
Quotei just went by the russian version setup..and altered the 510k to 560k....
OK. Anybody? It wouldn't make much difference if they were both anywhere between 500k and 1M, right? Are they even neccessary? What effect would it have to remove them altogether and just bias directly off the voltage divider?
This bias method is a Mod to the original Mu amp Jack Orman presented by R.G. It is called "noiseless biasing". IIRC R.G. used a 1 Meg, but I suspect your right that anything down to 500k would work. I don't think you can leave that out, or R.G. wouldn't have used it, but I haven't tried it. The Mu used a 1 Meg to +V and -V without a cap there. Works fine, but may be more noisy. ;)
QuoteThis bias method is a Mod to the original Mu amp Jack Orman presented by R.G. It is called "noiseless biasing".
Yep. Thanks for the reminder. The last time I saw that page, I didn't really understand it, but it makes more sense to me now. If I understand it correctly, the two 10k resistors in the voltage divider contribute less thermal noise than larger ones would. The 560k and 1M resistors going to the Q1 and Q3 gates could be just about any high value.
Rob - nice work on this. Thanks for sharing. I'm gonna build one.
@walt: cool, go for it!...you won't be disappointed...better than a standard bsiab imo..
i'm breadboarding another one just to have to tinker with, i'll try other stacks with it... :icon_cool:
tip: that fuzz mode/cap, socket it, its really sick with a 47-100n in there...really deep, almost octave down-ish...just a fun option... ;)
I forgot. Try it at 18v. Use 2 batteries in series. It's self biasing. ;)
Anyone who doesn't build this is a sissy girl! :'( This thing will knock yer nuts off :icon_twisted:
yeah, you big girls blouse's... :icon_twisted:
i have this on breadboard again..much to the delight of my cat... ::)
anyway..
i'm doing another build, but with just the funk, setting...sustain on...and just one toggle for modern /classic....just for a simpler build...
tinkering at the mo with wgtp's mods...... ;)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Sweet+16.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Apologies to Doug and everyone else. I had the tone stack drawn wrong and didn't figure it out until I was simming it and couldn't get it to work right. Try it again for a big scooped tone. Sorry. :icon_redface: :icon_rolleyes: :icon_sad: :icon_eek: :icon_cool::
aha....i'll give this tone a go now then!......i'm sure you'll be forgiven.... ;)
Hi Rob, I figured I would give this thread a bump since I think this is THE BEST pedal I have built yet, and I have built a few! I posted a tone sample on the DIY Stompboxes facebook page but since there is only 138 members on there and there are 23768 on here I figured I would post it here as well... As soon as I saw your youtube vid I started building it... First pedal I have built in a long time that I have just sat and played for hours without turning a knob or flippin a switch, just dailed in a tone that I liked and went into wonderland! Had to go deep into my electronics junk pile to find a couple of the parts but I was determined to get it done... The tone pot and a couple of the caps came out of a 1980's boombox stereo that I picked up at a yard sale for $2 that I got just for rippin the guts out of! :icon_twisted: Keep in mind that I am playing on a guitar that is slightly out of tune and it's somewhat sloppy but, I think it has "THE TONE!" I recorded it with no mixing of any kind going direct into the USB interface (Line 6 GX) and I am using a software cab sim with celestion 30w impulses, some software delay and lite chorus. I have since really dialed it in and it sounds unbelievable! Best pedal I have built and probably the best pedal I have ever played, period! It can do thrash metal to bluesy Satriani stuff all day long..! It has "The Brown Sound" as in I just crapped in my jockeys when I played it! :o So, put those op-amp to the side and build this mutha!!! :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20TEST1.mp3
@jok3rx
sounds really great man, ...nice clip n lick too......still got to check out that impulse lark..interesting stuff!.. :icon_cool:
glad you got it built...any pics?... :icon_cool:
ive been looking into a way of doing away with the toggles and converting the switching to rotary....bit of a nightmare though!...
ive leant mine to a good mate, he's trying it out on his amp/setup...he must be happy, i haven't heard from him... ;D :icon_twisted:
Thanks Rob..! No pics yet but I will get a few tonight... It's just the guts, I haven't boxed it up and given it a final resting place yet... Waiting for some good parts to come before I seal it up! And "THANK YOU" for stickin with this and getting it to where it is today!!! Great Job to you and all that helped!
@cheers jok3rx jim.. ;) look forward to seeing it in its full glory!...
+1 on the guys that helped too.. :icon_cool:
i tried wgtp's modern mod on this.(as i have it breaded)..the 2.2n where the 4.7n on the modern stack is...its nice n punchy...and feels nice and tight under your hand.......its got to be added to it.......its just got too... :icon_twisted:
hence the need for a rotary switch......still trying to get my head around it switching wise...hmmmmm..nightmare!
so this would be the shopping list for switching options:
modern 1 & 2
classic
hi cut
blues
fuzz
and just doing away with the sustain switch..always on..
but here is the bit that's doing my head in..i want to be able to choose between modern 1 & 2 plus all other options too...and the same with the classic with all other options...arghhhhhhhh my head!!!!!!!!!!!...
i'm sure one of you guys would go about it a better way....ahem!.... ;)...i would need a 6 pole ? way rotary right?.... ::)
no need for a rotary, use a toggle on - off - on
connect a 2n2 from the top of R11 to the top of the tone pot (effectively in parallel with teh switch & tone caps)
change C8 to 2n2, and C10 to 4n7
in the top switch position the added 2n2 is in parallel with C8, a total of 4n4 "modern 2"
in the center switch position we have teh added 2n2 only "modern 1"
in the bottom switch position we have the added 2n2 in parallel with C10, a total of 6n9 "classic"
i never worked out how to insert a picture into posts on here....
can add 1 more switch, a NOTCH DEPTH switch.
change R13 to 18K
in parallel with R13 fit a 22K in series with a switch.
when the switch is open, we have 18K & a larger Notch depth
when the switch is closed we have 18K in parallel with 22K (approx 10K) and a "standard" notch depth
Would a contour type knob be possible? Maybe a stupid question... :icon_redface:
@andy: cool mods and use of the 4.7/2.2 to make the classic 6.8/9 too...nice.....but i just wanted rid of toggles though...i'm a clumsy @#$%er..and just thought it'd be neater on the box too... ;D
btw sign up to http://www.dropbox.com/ its simple and free...for pic uploading... ;)
@jok3rx : arghhhhhhhhh more knobs...........i put a 47k pot before the 1uf in the tonestack and that was quite tweakable too...along with the 2.2n ...
righto, i'm back on it after the xmas pissup... ::) anyway...hangover over...for now!..
ive been messing around with rotary switches...and getting confused as @#$%... :-\
i have a 2pole 6 way, a 1 pole 12way, and a 3pole 4way...now what i want to do is ....
modern 1 2.2n
modern 2 4.7n
classic 6.8n
but....heres where it does my head in..
i want to be able to select between those 3 options, plus add the hi cut/blues/fuzz options too each of the 3 options...get me?.......arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...my @#$%ing head!.. ;D
any suggestions?..
You're not after all the possible options on the one rotary are you? :o
yep!... ;D
Can't tell how many switches you've got at the mo, but....
Modern 1 / Modern 2 / Classic = 1p3t
Add Hicut / Blues / Fuzz to each of the above = 2p9t
Add any more to each of those? each switch = add a pole / multipy the throws
If it's just those above maybe find 3 of those permutations that are either similar enough or that you can live without and use the 2p6t.
Otherwise just adding a 1p2t to the above would require 18 positions.
Quotei want to be able to select between those 3 options, plus add the hi cut/blues/fuzz options too each of the 3 options
If you want to have all the settings controlled with one rotary switch, then the number of unique combinations of settings determines how many "ways" (throws) the switch must have. If you have 3 settings for modern1, modern2, and classic and 2 settings for hi-cut or fuzz, then you have 6 unique combinations:
Modern1-Fuzz
Modern2-Fuzz
Classic-Fuzz
Modern1-hi-cut
Modern2-hi-cut
Classic-hi-cut
So you need a 6-way switch. Your 2P6T switch would be perfect for this. One of the two common connectors in the middle of the switch goes to ground (to switch the fuzz/hi-cut caps). Each of the fuzz/hi-cut caps connect to three of the twelve terminals around the outside of the switch - so half of the 6 switch positions have the fuzz cap connected, and half have the hi-cut cap connected. Every alternate connector around the outside of the switch should have one of the fuzz/hi-cut caps connected to it.
Similarly, the other terminal in the middle of the switch connects to the junction of Q5 and R11. Each of the modern1/modern2/classic caps is connected to 2 of the remaining 6 connectors around the outside of the switch.
The end result is that position of the 6-way switch is used to represent one of the 6 combinations of modern1/modern2/classic and fuzz/hi-cut.
...unless I completely misunderstood what your are trying to do - then all bets are off.
Edit: Uhhh... just recalled that the fuzz/hi-cut switch might need three positions (including off). For that you would need a 2P9T - or an additional SPST switch.
ahhhh walt, your solution was nearly there ..apart from that bloody off! which gives the fender-ish sound to it.....shame!.arghhhhh...
i think i'll just stick to 2 toggles in the end, its just more logical and instantly visible and selectable too....thanks for your ideas though chaps... :icon_cool: :)
i was just over-thinking a simple issue..and being a greedy bastard too.......still ya gotta aim high right!..... cheers guys. ;)
andymac got me thinking.....
right, i'm going down the kiss (keep it simple stupid ) route...
ive done away with , sustain boost/cut switch..
and hi/cut blues fuzz switch.....just having blues on all time..
so..
left with one switch ok...
heres the idea to have modern 1 / modern 2 / classic..
using an on/on/on spdt, _ = lugs of switch.
_ 2.2n modern 2
_ 2.2n modern 1
_4.7n classic
shouldn't it?...the 2.2n being the middle lug on always.... and adds to the other 2.2n to make 4.4n.....and 2.2n adds to 4.7 to make 6.9....is that right?.. 2.2n
like this..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spitfire1switch.jpg)
This pedal is very interesting i think.. is this a clone of something ? is there a way to get more gain out of it ?, is the SPDT a mode selector with different sound patterns ?
its based on a russian version of the bsiab called bsiab-x , but with selectable tone controls....much better than a standard bsiab imo..
more gain?... :icon_eek: theres a lot on tap as it is imo..... :icon_twisted:....you may want to try the dr boogie instead then.. :icon_twisted:
yes the spdt is a tone selector..
alas i think ive messed up the caps, i need to readjust it, for series.. ::)...i'm working on it now on breadboard... ;)
report back later..
edit: right ive got it now...
_ 6.8n giving 4.6n modern 1
_ 2.2n giving modern 2
_10n.....giving 7.8n classic
sorted...i'll try it ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 01:06:09 PM
its based on a russian version of the bsiab called bsiab-x , but with selectable tone controls....much better than a standard bsiab imo..
more gain?... :icon_eek: theres a lot on tap as it is imo..... :icon_twisted:....you may want to try the dr boogie instead then.. :icon_twisted:
yes the spdt is a tone selector..
alas i think ive messed up the caps, i need to readjust it, for series.. ::)...i'm working on it now on breadboard... ;)
report back later..
edit: right ive got it now...
_ 6.8n giving 4.6n modern 1
_ 2.2n giving modern 2
_10n.....giving 7.8n classic
sorted...i'll try it ;)
I saw your video of the version number 2.. and i like that the most i think.. just cus it have alot of different modes... wich one should i build.. ?
go for version 2, its the same, i just squeezed the layout to fit a 1590b box easier...
this version 3 will just have 1 toggle instead of the 3...i'm just making things simpler for myself after a few weeks of playing through it
and finding the options that i want and actually need....its a great distortion man...build it you won't be disappointed i can assure you... :icon_twisted:
edit: you might want to wait for version 3...i'll have it up real soon... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 01:45:20 PM
go for version 2, its the same, i just squeezed the layout to fit a 1590b box easier...
this version 3 will just have 1 toggle instead of the 3...i'm just making things simpler for myself after a few weeks of playing through it
and finding the options that i want and actually need....its a great distortion man...build it you won't be disappointed i can assure you... :icon_twisted:
edit: you might want to wait for version 3...i'll have it up real soon... ;)
I just printed the wiring diagram to get a hang of what its all about, D1 could i use what ever i wanna ? 1N914, 1N4148 etc etc ?
What does VR1 100k lin means.. i only see 3 pots.. but the VR makes it 4.. ?
I have all the components but not the switches.. so i will order that and when i got them i will make a build of this.. :D
I have 1590B enclosures here.. and the PCB seems to fit just fine.. :D
ignore the list go by the diagram ok......don't worry its only 3 pots .. no trimmers etc........ ;)
the 1n4001 is just a polarity protection device just to stop damage in case of people plugging in a tip positive supply ok...it can be left out....
i just prefer to put it in for other peoples use....you know what people are like...(like my mate who destroys stuff all the time.. ;D
edit:
1MA GAIN
47K LIN TONE
10K LIN VOLUME...
I see.. well i dont destroy stuff at all.. or well i have been smashing the shit out of a couple of strats on stage when i was young.. but now i am old and vice :D
Anyway.. do u have a wiringdiagram how to hook up the 3PDT switch to this circuit as well as in and out on the circuit.. i dont think i can manage.. i am old remember.. :D
ok you old bugger, here ya go.. :D....so am i btw.. ;)
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/
bookmark it.. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 02:10:37 PM
ok you old bugger, here ya go.. :D....so am i btw.. ;)
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/
bookmark it.. ;)
Hahahaha.. thanx.. that will do it.. and i belive i could ask u here when i am actualy building this.. :D
I am gona order some other components and enclosures to so i thought i order the things i need for this one as well.. and try it out :D...but.. i can not get 47k pot... will a 50k do the job as good ?
yeah, it''l be fine...in uk we have 47k's..in usa etc they have 50k's...
same as 470k/500k...etc... just the way it is..
again you might wanna hold fire and wait for the version 3...less switches, and better imo...
i'll post it up later or tomorrow ok...i'm just trying to find a @#$%ing on on on switch arghhhhh...... :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 02:20:59 PM
yeah, it''l be fine...in uk we have 47k's..in usa etc they have 50k's...
same as 470k/500k...etc... just the way it is..
again you might wanna hold fire and wait for the version 3...less switches, and better imo...
i'll post it up later or tomorrow ok...i'm just trying to find a @#$%ing on on on switch arghhhhh...... :icon_rolleyes:
OK cool.. well, yes if u can provide a sound sample of the version number 3 maybe that is what i want to build.. i am gona order some stuff so.. just let me know what components it have and i order than at the same time.. :D
get a on/on/on switch for sure....
i can't find one in my bitsbox..arghhhhhhhhhhhh....off to the shops tomorrow...if they are open.. ::)
all other components will be standard stuff...just one more cap ...
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 02:26:56 PM
get a on/on/on switch for sure....
i can't find one in my bitsbox..arghhhhhhhhhhhh....off to the shops tomorrow...if they are open.. ::)
all other components will be standard stuff...just one more cap ...
Ok i´ll get an on/on/on switch.. i have most of the standard stuff so i hope i have everrything else..
But would be cool to see a wiring diagram on the version 3.. just to have a look what it looks like.. :D, and hey.. btw, in the version two, isnt it possible to have an ON/ON switch for the VOL 1 bright and VOL 2 darker ? i mean so it could easy be switched between the both modes ? just a thought though..
you could do that yep...but when you build the pcb try both outs first to see which you prefer..
i'm all for the simple life.. :)
Yes.. ok.. thats what i had in mind, and i kind of like switches that change the sound, but i am all out on developer so i cant etch eny PCB´s now.. need to order that to :D
Well u mean that i could build both the version 2 and 3 ? or what did u have in mind ? :icon_biggrin:
i would build 3..., you'll still have both outs if you like too...optional.
i'll knock it up asap, my family have just turned up from miles away, so i'll have to squeeze it in when i can... ::)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 03:01:30 PM
i would build 3..., you'll still have both outs if you like too...optional.
i'll knock it up asap, my family have just turned up from miles away, so i'll have to squeeze it in when i can... ::)
Thats awesome.. i´ll wait and see what happens..
What amp did u use in the demo of this pedal ?
no amp, straight into a mixer... :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 03:16:48 PM
no amp, straight into a mixer... :icon_cool:
Thats cool.. cus a amp sounds different to.. if i test a pedal in a music store that i like and i was playing it on a JCM 800 and comes home and hook it up to my Marshall MG15 ministack it will not sound the same..
Ok so i am doing a little thing here.. the PCB will fit in to a B enclosure.. BUT with the 24mm pots and IF i wanna have 9 volt battery in it.. i am @#$%ed... it will not fit in to a B box.. impossible..or ? have u checked this up anything ?
My attempt
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/401727_10150429175205964_606400963_8672170_1315722851_n.jpg)
i never use batteries......and only use mono jacks..
and whoa!...those are big pots...i use 16mm pots..then the middle pot can face backwards...
you need room for a dc socket too..and a toggle switch.... :icon_eek:
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2011, 05:23:31 PM
i never use batteries...
and whoa!...those are big pots...i use 16mm pots..then the middle pot can face backwards...
I was just curious about if its possible to have a battery in a B box when building a Spitfire..we maybe i can use a B box.. but no battery will fit in.. so it will only be 9 Volt DC possibility..
The 16mm is not easy to ge my hands on over here.. :S in 99% of my builds are 24mm so thats why i almost only use them..
Looks like a magic trick getting a battery into that box...? I use 125B 4.77" x 2.6" x 1.39" enclosures most of the time just because they are deeper and I don't like fighting to get all the guts inside, plus it's only like .25 cents more so... I am sure you could get it to fit inside but you will have to pull some slick mojo... I would just use a 9V external power jack like Rob said... Is there a reason why you want to put a battery inside? You know, you can always solder a 9v battery snap connector to a DC plugin connector and use it external if you have to use a battery. Anyway, you are gonna love this pedal!!
Rob - Nice job on the new layout :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: J0K3RX on December 30, 2011, 07:29:26 PM
Looks like a magic trick getting a battery into that box...? I use 125B 4.77" x 2.6" x 1.39" enclosures most of the time just because they are deeper and I don't like fighting to get all the guts inside, plus it's only like .25 cents more so... I am sure you could get it to fit inside but you will have to pull some slick mojo... I would just use a 9V external power jack like Rob said... Is there a reason why you want to put a battery inside? You know, you can always solder a 9v battery snap connector to a DC plugin connector and use it external if you have to use a battery. Anyway, you are gonna love this pedal!!
Rob - Nice job on the new layout :icon_biggrin:
No.. no reason to use a B box.. just a tought if its possible, i will use a 125B enclosure for sure.. :D, Yes a external battery clip is possible.. :D
Rob, I made a board transfer for your second rev. with 1 switch, hope you don't mind :icon_question: It's really large so if anybody wants it they can re-size... I left in the ground plain so you can get a little more out of your etching solution... Happy New Year!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/spitfire_1switch_transfer.JPG)
I know it's late in the process, but the BSIAB II uses the 3rd jfet as a gain stage rather than a buffer. So if you want more gain... ;)
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bsiab2_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a
Quote from: WGTP on January 02, 2012, 05:32:10 PM
I know it's late in the process, but the BSIAB II uses the 3rd jfet as a gain stage rather than a buffer. So if you want more gain... ;)
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bsiab2_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a
WGTP
Does it have more gain than the spitfire? I have seen that one but have not built it, yet...
~ Jim
i built that bsiabII^ , i couldn't get on with it, it was too muddy imo, thats why i explored it further.... :)
I'm not sure how to measure or calculate the gain of the 2. I think the bypass caps in the stage has allot to do with it, the resistance between stages and the number of stages. For max gain, use big bypass caps, 22uf, minimize resistance between stages and use 3 of them. That could present some problems with too much gain, not sure. ;)
Here are some suggested gain mod to try. :icon_twisted:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire+Mods.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
The problem with more gain is less definition, less of the guitar tone itself coming through. I think the Spitfire is a good balance. You could destroy what you got by adding more gain, or maybe not, depending on what your ears wanna hear.
Yes, I'm not saying all those mod's will work, as apposed to creating an oscillating mess, those are standard methods of increasing gain. Some designs produce 2 stages maxed out, others 3 stages with less gain in each stage, but about the same overall gain for the devices. When designing for max gain, a point is usually reached at which additional gain will cause the device to be unusable. ;)
I forgot to add that resistance can be added between stages to reduce gain. This is commonly used int tube amps. :icon_mrgreen:
right, heres version #3 . i kept it simple in the end......a bit like me.. :P
using an spdt on/on switch...to go between modern/classic...socket c10/c11 to taste.......
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3PCB.pdf
pcb's available soon if anyone is interested, pm me ok.... ;)
hey rob,
the first link is dead ???
works fine for me?... :-\
Looks great.. :D
Do u have a demo of this pedal ? on youtube maybe ?
:icon_eek:....its the same as this but with the sustain boost on permanent, and blues on permanent...
with just modern/classic as in the video.....simplified after a few weeks of using it... :)
from 7:33.
U are a damn good guitar-player.. i must say, sound good.. :D
The V3 sounds awesome.. and less SPDT ´s than the V2.. :D
cheers man!....yep kiss (keep it simple stupid)...is the way to go.. ;)
spam alert! :o
spitfire pcbs ready guys. (fits 1590b) sorry for the wait, i was waiting on an etchant delivery.. ::)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spitfirepcbpic.jpg)
i found out the average airmail post worldwide is £1.50 +£6.00 per pcb.= £7.50 GBP total.
paypal at deadastronaut@yahoo.co.uk if you would like one..
i'll post orders out on saturday 14th jan...if ordered by friday 13th night ok..
any questions pm me .. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 11, 2012, 07:53:12 AM
spam alert! :o
spitfire pcbs ready guys. (fits 1590b) sorry for the wait, i was waiting on an etchant delivery.. ::)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spitfirepcbpic.jpg)
i found out the average airmail post worldwide is £1.50 +£6.00 per pcb.= £7.50 GBP total.
paypal at deadastronaut@yahoo.co.uk if you would like one..
i'll post orders out on saturday 14th jan...if ordered by friday 13th night ok..
any questions pm me .. ;)
Looks great, do u etch yours in a etching tank ? do u use OH and photopossitive copperlaminate ?
Looks GREAT Rob but...
I'm gonna hold off until the 1590A version shows up :icon_eek:
i dont do 1590a's...i haven't got tiny feet... ;)
@perkla: laser toner method:
Rob ~ Nice looking etch and drill! I like using DIY Layout Creator, quick an easy... I like to leave as much copper as possible on mine just to save ferric chloride etching solution... I know some people don't like it if their solder skills are shaky and are prone to creating solder bridges/shorts etc... But I like it.
Rob ~ Here is one I did from your layout but with on-board pots.. less wire :icon_wink: I don't have the parts layout but it's pretty much the same as yours, a couple things have moved a little but nothing that somebody couldn't figure out... This was for my own personal use, not going to sell them!
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3.1.34%20transfer%20onboard%20pots.bmp
@jok3rx : nice work man!.
i like to have my pcbs a bit more open plan, for shaky dudes with dodgy eyes like me.... ;)
@Ian.W.B. thanks. will post saturday with other orders ok.
edit:
@Al .S. thanks. post saturday ok.
edit:
@R.V. thanks. post saturday ok .
Here is a shot of the frequency response of the tone control set at modern, with the 50k pot in the middle. A 100k pot lowers the midrange notch down a little and cuts more of the treble. ;)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Dead+Astro.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Hope you don't mind me doing this Rob... I just love this pedal!!! :icon_biggrin:
layout with the onboard pot differences
See diagram below:
dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%203%20%20onboard%20pots%20layout%20daigram.jpg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%203%20%20onboard%20pots%20layout%20daigram.jpg)
Standard Layout differences
See diagram below:
dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%203%20Standard%20layout%20daigram.jpg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%203%20Standard%20layout%20daigram.jpg)
Board Transfers:
Onboard Pots - open layout without the ground plane for those with unsteady hands and poor eyesight
dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3%20onboard%20pots%20open.JPG (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3%20onboard%20pots%20open.JPG)
Onboard Pots - With ground plane fill to save etching solution
dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3%20onboard%20pots.JPG (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3%20onboard%20pots.JPG)
Standard layout no ground plane for the elderly... :icon_razz:
dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3.1-1%20open.JPG (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3.1-1%20open.JPG)
Standard layout with ground plane fill to save etching solution
dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3.1-1%20transfer.bmp (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20v3.1-1%20transfer.bmp)
Quote from: WGTP on January 12, 2012, 10:31:34 PM
Here is a shot of the frequency response of the tone control set at modern, with the 50k pot in the middle. A 100k pot lowers the midrange notch down a little and cuts more of the treble. ;)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Dead+Astro.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
I will give that a try!
I think it will be a good idea to move the design files to the wiki, with a "mods" section. This pedal is great!
@wgtp: nice, i'll try that too..just a 100k pot yeah instead of 47/50k?.....i have it on a designated breadboard still for any tweaking :icon_cool:
@jok3rx ..linko not workingo.... :P (for the elderly ha ha... :icon_mrgreen:)
@jorge pm'd
pcb's sold out!... blimey they went quick...:icon_eek:
@jorge: thanks .
i will post them all out today ok guys......
i spent last night designing my new box...its gonna be nice!!!... ;) :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 13, 2012, 04:48:51 AM
@jok3rx ..linko not workingo.... :P (for the elderly ha ha... :icon_mrgreen:)
Try them now... I forgot to create hyperlink :icon_redface:
@jok3rx: nice work man, what prog are you using for those?...
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 13, 2012, 05:15:43 AM
@jok3rx: nice work man, what prog are you using for those?...
Thanks.. I am using "Sprint Layout 5.0" http://www.abacom-online.de/html/demoversionen.html (http://www.abacom-online.de/html/demoversionen.html)
a sneaky peek preview of the spitfire v3..it'll have 3mm red/orange eyes like the original too... :icon_cool:. ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.30%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.31.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.34%5B02%5D.jpg)
Do you sell those enclosures too? :icon_biggrin:
I want mine witth UV-Led :icon_twisted:
hi jorge, nope sorry...too much work, but i like my ones etched...i'm just a fussy bugger, i dont like waterslides,stickers etc...
as for uv ....hmmmm...get some sunglasses.. ;D
Rob ~ That looks Outstanding!!! Great design & etch job...! As compared to other retail/custom pedals this could easily be a $250 to $300 box!
^ :icon_eek:
i dunno about that!..my concience wouldn't let me charge anywhere near that, they usually go to friends and they say 'mate rates' which is considerably less than £100.00 believe me.......cheeky bastardo's ::)
but hey mates are mates eh!..even skint ones!... :)
got a day of drilling today...which i never look forward to as i don't have a press....just a block of wood, and my foot... ::)
Hey Rob, nobody needs 2 feet to play guitar ;D
ha ha its come close a few times.... :P
Quote from: Jorge_S on January 14, 2012, 06:49:56 PM
Do you sell those enclosures too? :icon_biggrin:
I want mine witth UV-Led :icon_twisted:
If u want to get blind i´d say UV is pretty good... if u want to be able to see for a little while longer...well then i´d say go for a normal LED... :D
Quote from: Perkla on January 15, 2012, 12:59:33 PM
Quote from: Jorge_S on January 14, 2012, 06:49:56 PM
Do you sell those enclosures too? :icon_biggrin:
I want mine witth UV-Led :icon_twisted:
If u want to get blind i´d say UV is pretty good... if u want to be able to see for a little while longer...well then i´d say go for a normal LED... :D
I like laying in tanning beds with my eyes wide open! I'm a rebel... :o
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 15, 2012, 01:39:02 PM
Quote from: Perkla on January 15, 2012, 12:59:33 PM
Quote from: Jorge_S on January 14, 2012, 06:49:56 PM
Do you sell those enclosures too? :icon_biggrin:
I want mine witth UV-Led :icon_twisted:
If u want to get blind i´d say UV is pretty good... if u want to be able to see for a little while longer...well then i´d say go for a normal LED... :D
I like laying in tanning beds with my eyes wide open! I'm a rebel... :o
U seem to be pretty hard core JOK3RX :icon_eek:
This circuit made it off the to-do list and onto breadboard today! One quick, then one thorough review of the 2N5457 GDS pinouts and it worked on the very third try. I didn't want so many switches, and wanted slightly darker range of tones, so playing with some values I ended up
-removing the bright cap on the volume pot (C4)
-didn't need either C3, C5 or C12
-made C7 10uF
-settled on 4.7nF C8
-removed R7, C11
-used 100K pot with a 47K strapped C15 to R14 to reduce the range of HF on the tone knob
Awesome. Thank you so much for your efforts on this circuit deadastronaut!
CHAD
good one chad....
the version 3 just has 1 switch now...
2n5457's eh!...less gain?.
yeah its a good idea to breadboard it, to get it to set it to suit your 'style' taste'.....cool.
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 16, 2012, 04:14:04 AM
good one chad....
the version 3 just has 1 switch now...
2n5457's eh!...less gain?.
yeah its a good idea to breadboard it, to get it to set it to suit your 'style' taste'.....cool.
I didn't realize they had less gain than the j201... I'm a latecomer to the pedal-building party, but assumed since your schematic says 'J201 & 2N5457', that meant they were similar. But, still- great circuit. Certainly doesn't need any more gain! Oh, I also ended up removing the 680K R6 resistor, which perhaps added back some of the lost gain.
I have this pedal in mind for a hardcore 7-string friend.
CHAD
Quote from: seedlings on January 16, 2012, 09:36:51 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 16, 2012, 04:14:04 AM
good one chad....
the version 3 just has 1 switch now...
2n5457's eh!...less gain?.
yeah its a good idea to breadboard it, to get it to set it to suit your 'style' taste'.....cool.
I didn't realize they had less gain than the j201... I'm a latecomer to the pedal-building party, but assumed since your schematic says 'J201 & 2N5457', that meant they were similar. But, still- great circuit. Certainly doesn't need any more gain! Oh, I also ended up removing the 680K R6 resistor, which perhaps added back some of the lost gain.
I have this pedal in mind for a hardcore 7-string friend.
CHAD
Chad, I am very curious as to how this will sound with a 7 or 8 string? It has a very tight low end so I am expecting it to do very well...
~ Jim
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 16, 2012, 02:04:04 PM
Quote from: seedlings on January 16, 2012, 09:36:51 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 16, 2012, 04:14:04 AM
good one chad....
the version 3 just has 1 switch now...
2n5457's eh!...less gain?.
yeah its a good idea to breadboard it, to get it to set it to suit your 'style' taste'.....cool.
I didn't realize they had less gain than the j201... I'm a latecomer to the pedal-building party, but assumed since your schematic says 'J201 & 2N5457', that meant they were similar. But, still- great circuit. Certainly doesn't need any more gain! Oh, I also ended up removing the 680K R6 resistor, which perhaps added back some of the lost gain.
I have this pedal in mind for a hardcore 7-string friend.
CHAD
Chad, I am very curious as to how this will sound with a 7 or 8 string? It has a very tight low end so I am expecting it to do very well...
~ Jim
Well, I'm not the 7-string player. I did try it with dropped B and it growls nicely. I was reading my post again and noticed a few other things I ended up changing. Removed R14, R7, C18, C11 in favor of a .001uF strapped across the volume pot. C6 and C2 are .05uF. And then I played more and changed C7 again to .68uF, but added a 100uF cap in place of C3. C8 / C10 is a .001uF. Now the tone knob goes from 4x12 boom on one side to tight 10" sealed on the other side.
I totally understand why you put the switches ! I like just about everything. Now to get my bud to come over and try it out. to see if it needs anything in the frequency range that bass guitarists hate.
CHAD
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 14, 2012, 06:36:14 PM
a sneaky peek preview of the spitfire v3..it'll have 3mm red/orange eyes like the original too... :icon_cool:. ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.30%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.31.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.34%5B02%5D.jpg)
Man that is off all the following:
The Chain
The Hook
The Charts
CHAD
8)
i had detuning and standard tuning in mind with this from the beginning, its great drop tuned....in my video near the end its drop c#...
thats why i kept the higher end tone...so its a good all-rounder... ;)
Quote from: seedlings on January 16, 2012, 02:43:24 PM
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 16, 2012, 02:04:04 PM
Quote from: seedlings on January 16, 2012, 09:36:51 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 16, 2012, 04:14:04 AM
good one chad....
the version 3 just has 1 switch now...
2n5457's eh!...less gain?.
yeah its a good idea to breadboard it, to get it to set it to suit your 'style' taste'.....cool.
I didn't realize they had less gain than the j201... I'm a latecomer to the pedal-building party, but assumed since your schematic says 'J201 & 2N5457', that meant they were similar. But, still- great circuit. Certainly doesn't need any more gain! Oh, I also ended up removing the 680K R6 resistor, which perhaps added back some of the lost gain.
I have this pedal in mind for a hardcore 7-string friend.
CHAD
Chad, I am very curious as to how this will sound with a 7 or 8 string? It has a very tight low end so I am expecting it to do very well...
~ Jim
Well, I'm not the 7-string player. I did try it with dropped B and it growls nicely. I was reading my post again and noticed a few other things I ended up changing. Removed R14, R7, C18, C11 in favor of a .001uF strapped across the volume pot. C6 and C2 are .05uF. And then I played more and changed C7 again to .68uF, but added a 100uF cap in place of C3. C8 / C10 is a .001uF. Now the tone knob goes from 4x12 boom on one side to tight 10" sealed on the other side.
I totally understand why you put the switches ! I like just about everything. Now to get my bud to come over and try it out. to see if it needs anything in the frequency range that bass guitarists hate.
CHAD
Seems like you have made quite a few changes... Got any sound clips?
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 17, 2012, 06:20:35 PM
Seems like you have made quite a few changes... Got any sound clips?
I'll put one up, but it will be embarrassing. Other clips are made by genuine players- I'm generally a 'color' guy over basic chord progressions, so sweet or fast licks aren't on tap.
CHAD
Here's a couple boards I made.. A few flaws but they are fixable. Now for the fun part, drilling :icon_rolleyes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Image1.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Image2.jpg)
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 17, 2012, 06:20:35 PM
Quote from: seedlings on January 16, 2012, 02:43:24 PM
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 16, 2012, 02:04:04 PM
Quote from: seedlings on January 16, 2012, 09:36:51 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 16, 2012, 04:14:04 AM
good one chad....
the version 3 just has 1 switch now...
2n5457's eh!...less gain?.
yeah its a good idea to breadboard it, to get it to set it to suit your 'style' taste'.....cool.
I didn't realize they had less gain than the j201... I'm a latecomer to the pedal-building party, but assumed since your schematic says 'J201 & 2N5457', that meant they were similar. But, still- great circuit. Certainly doesn't need any more gain! Oh, I also ended up removing the 680K R6 resistor, which perhaps added back some of the lost gain.
I have this pedal in mind for a hardcore 7-string friend.
CHAD
Chad, I am very curious as to how this will sound with a 7 or 8 string? It has a very tight low end so I am expecting it to do very well...
~ Jim
Well, I'm not the 7-string player. I did try it with dropped B and it growls nicely. I was reading my post again and noticed a few other things I ended up changing. Removed R14, R7, C18, C11 in favor of a .001uF strapped across the volume pot. C6 and C2 are .05uF. And then I played more and changed C7 again to .68uF, but added a 100uF cap in place of C3. C8 / C10 is a .001uF. Now the tone knob goes from 4x12 boom on one side to tight 10" sealed on the other side.
I totally understand why you put the switches ! I like just about everything. Now to get my bud to come over and try it out. to see if it needs anything in the frequency range that bass guitarists hate.
CHAD
Seems like you have made quite a few changes... Got any sound clips?
No skills>
Parker fly deluxe bridge humbucker>
radioshack project board>
champ clone>
eminence wizard sealed>
sm57>
>iphone diy mic adapter
I think all the changes are correct. I'll delete this schematic as fast as I can if you don't want it posted deadastronaut (or mods remove).
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/NOTspitfieschematic.jpg)
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/NOTspitfire.jpg)
CHAD
Parker Fly Deluxe!? You Suck!!! That was great man!!! You are like some kinda mad metal scientist in that room with all that sh!t :icon_mrgreen: I gotta get me one of those Radio Shack electronics learning labs! That was a really good demo and it sounded pretty damn good also..! Thanks for posting all this and great job man! I will PM you with my address so you can send me that Parker Fly :icon_lol:
Diggin your coffee vids too! :icon_wink:
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 17, 2012, 10:53:06 PM
Parker Fly Deluxe!? You Suck!!! That was great man!!! You are like some kinda mad metal scientist in that room with all that sh!t :icon_mrgreen: I gotta get me one of those Radio Shack electronics learning labs! That was a really good demo and it sounded pretty damn good also..! Thanks for posting all this and great job man! I will PM you with my address so you can send me that Parker Fly :icon_lol:
If you read about the deluxe you'll find it's only for country music... :icon_eek: ...whatever. I did roll the guitar tone back just a wee bit because it is a bright guitar and the EMI Wizard is bright too. You did add a lot of smileys, but I'll take the compliment anyway. I figured if I stayed on D how bad could I screw up a demo? Got that learning lab for the boy like 6 years ago when he was 9. We made a light sensitive buzzer and put it in the bathroom to surprise sister. It worked, then went back in the box till a few months ago when I remembered we had it and I wanted to make a pedal.
OH, I got a deal on the FLY.... essentially I bought it for the money I made selling my prized LTD EC-1000 w/EMGs. Um... worked out well for me.
CHAD
*edit: Pfft! Coffee is my other geek hobby ::)
Hey Chad, check out Reeves Gabrels with Bowie. That is no country... ;)
@jok3rx: looking good... :icon_cool:
@chad: sounds cool man....no worries on the schemo ok...its all about tweaking ok..!!!!!... ;)
those lab things are handy eh!!!...
finishing my build today, have had to do stuff for my bro the last few days...been frustrating the @#$% out of me not being able to get it done....
should be done by this afternoon...without interuptions ::)... :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
da da... :icon_twisted:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P180112_17.18%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P180112_17.17%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P180112_17.21.jpg)
Great Stuff. ;)
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/BeavisHeadBang.gif)
CHAD
:icon_twisted:
hay is that an etch or transfer?
etch.... :icon_twisted:
This pedal will probably be my first attempt at etching. I'm thinking something like this:
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/jfet1mini.jpg)
CHAD
Amazing! I love how it can go from a warm crunch to mean & spit-firing :icon_twisted:
This design has to be one of the best distortions in the diy world, thanks for sharing!
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 18, 2012, 04:26:10 PM
:icon_twisted:
ok..ok ..ok... I hate you, I will have no time to get my homework done and this pedal...... masters degree, pedal... master.. pedal..... PEDAL............. :icon_evil: :icon_twisted: :icon_evil:
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 18, 2012, 04:26:10 PM
:icon_twisted:
Rob, can you tell us which kind of capacitors you used for the pedal at the demo? which ones ceramic, film, poly...? :icon_eek:
Awesome Video! (both the playing and the video production - you must have some nice software toys)
How about a gut shot?
@walt, i used a mix of windows movie maker, and sony vegas pro for the logo space stuff...nice toys indeed..
heres the best i can do at the mo for an intestinal shot.....i hate gut shots, its tantamount to having to do games (P.E) in your under pants at school..... :icon_redface: ;D
i used a mix of mono ceramic, ceramic's on this one...the next one i build will be film's etc....just as a personal experiment in 'differences' ,if any, in sound... ;)
not the neatest of wiring, but i had a lot of human+feline interference at the time... ::)
@walt: recognize that 1uf?... ;)
@steve H . do a masters degree in pedals!!! ;D
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/guts.jpg)
Here is mine!
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2316/bilders2028.jpg ;D
Tried something new. First sanding 120/300. Then spraying with a photo positive liquid, this one:
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/526/bilders2009.jpg
Then etching with HCL 30%, H2O2 30% and water (1:1:1).
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/7937/bilders2019.jpg
Thin lines got a little bit too thick, next time I cover the thin lines with a liquid frisket, this one:
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/5163/bilders2024.jpg
Etching took ca 10 min...
This weekend I do the soldering, hope it sounds good ;D
Here's some guts for ya...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/DSCF0075-s.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/DSCF0076-s.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/DSCF0077-s.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/DSCF0078-s.jpg)
@maik.. whooohoooo came out great man!...so that stuff worked fine!....cool...
one tip though...don't spray the paint in...dab it in by hand, so you don't fill any pits....looks great!...love those little mushrooms!.. and the duck! ;)
@jok3rx: that looks the nuts man!....very tidy indeed.!...love the black pcb, nice touch!...it'll make it sound meaner too... ;) :icon_cool:
Thanks Rob.
Will do the paint with a brush.
And jip, the psylowichtel are great... ;D
@maik: ha ha...are you putting 3mm led 'eyes' in for on/off....or 5mm led in the gun hole?..... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
and whats that in the ashtray?...tut tut...!!... ;D
@ Rob: hupsi, wrong photo :icon_mrgreen: :icon_twisted:
No LED-Plexiglass between box and bottom as a footlight with a red LED like this one
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.100
Post Nr 9. This is how it will look, but in red 8)
cool,yeah i like those, ive done a few too....
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P150610_21_36.jpg.html
i'd be tempted to do the eyes though too...just for eye candy!...
but i am addicted to leds... :D
Check out this new ROG project called Ginger. Notice the placement of LED's to prevent "hard" clipping of the Jfets. I have placed 2 red ones between distortion stages and it has a nice affect, slightly altering the distortion character. I bring it to your attention for that reason, but also the LEDs BLINK, getting brighter the harder you play and going dark when not playing. ;)
http://www.runoffgroove.com/ginger.html
The PCB arrived and I built it up on the table (meaning its not in a box yet). Very impressed, close to tube-like sound IMO, but different also.
I built the V3 sticking as close as possible to the spec'd parts using parts on hand. The tone control is a bit touchy but there is a sweet spot there for me. It made me keep playing. I think it needs a few hours to sound right, because it seems to get better and better with use.
One thing I did was put sockets in for the JFET's and found the 2N5457 to be a bit warmer in the lower position of each gain stage (Q1 and Q4 on the V3 pdf layout). I love it. I used 10n and 4n7 for the switch, it works great, both positions are good and useful. This circuit has heaps of gain if required.
For some reason the neck humbucker sounds a bit single coilish with this circuit, no idea why, but I like it. The 470pF bright capacitor on the gain pot got pulled in the first 5 minutes, just a bit too bright for me, sounds good without it.
I really like this one and it will probably become my #1 dirt pedal. It is unusual in that a lot of original tone from the guitar seems to be preserved rather than mashed up. 10 out of 10 Rob!
@ian: great stuff man, :icon_cool:
yeah its good to mess with the fets, and the tone caps too...anywhere from 2.2n to 10 is great...tight to open..
and yeah even on my ibanez humbucker neck pup, its got that woody fenderesque sound...i love that too...goes from metal to funky-hendrixy slappy stuff....lovely tone!...
really nice....and still like you say preseves the guitars sound as well...its my #1 dirt for sure.....
i fancy i'll have a dig at the dr boogey next, ive built a few but never liked the tone controls on it...but at the end of the day, i like this best!!!...more versatile, i also love the way it cleans up
with the guitar volume...great with a swell/volume pedal.... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
i look forward to seeing/hearing your build man... :)
Quote from: Ronan on January 31, 2012, 06:17:42 AM
The 470pF bright capacitor on the gain pot got pulled in the first 5 minutes, just a bit too bright for me, sounds good without it.
Jumper or just pulled?
either i guess...
i just built another spitty, but i dropped my 'modern' cap 4.7n...to a 3.3n....makes it a little tighter for riffin... :icon_twisted:
whoops sorry maik, pull it and jumper it.... ;)
I just removed it, no jumper, since my bridge pickup is fairly high output, and I don't use full metal-type gains, so maybe that's why I noticed the brightness at low gain settings. If you don't use lower gain settings, you wouldn't hear the bright cap.
If you put a jumper in there where the 470p cap was, that would give a different sound again, I don't know what though.
Will try to get a sound clip going this Friday, any suggestions on where to host it?
hi ian, use 'dropbox', its really easy to use...drag n drop...copy link..paste...and free.. ;)
Parts arrived, so I will let the 470pF inside and if it's sound boring :icon_mrgreen: I pull it out...
You might try a 220pf or 100pf instead of the 470pf if it gets too bright.
You guys are building some gorgeous pedals. ;)
just been tweaking a little...as the tone control goes too bright imo......
so i'm trying resistors across pin 3 -1 on the tone pot using my resistor sub box......very tweakable..as long as i don't lose any bass too.. :icon_cool:
@ian: i tried cutting one leg of the 470pf.. just to try that....didn't hear any noticable difference...soldered it back..
try the pot resistor mod ..very noticable........i'm not settled on a value just yet as there are a few possibilites.... :icon_twisted: back later...i'm on it now!!!!... ;)
8.2k - 10k sounds pretty cool...
edit: 5.6 k seems to be best....btw i stuck with a 47k lin pot, and a 4.7n-6.8n cap selection..... :icon_twisted:
With the caps across the pot, it does nothing at max. Turn it down 1/2 and you should be able to hear the treble boost effect that it creates. 470pf may be too much 100pf may be to little. It's used in guitar amps as a bright switch typically. ;)
Here's a rough sound clip (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/I%27m%20not%20effin%20joe%20satriani%201.mp3) with a digitech synth wah thrown in on top of the spitfire in the last few seconds. Sorry bout the guitar playing guys, best I could manage today ;)
@wgtp..oh i see...
@ian.. cool,..not effin satriani.. :D....don't apologise, sounds good man!....love that wah too... :icon_cool:
Robert, I hope you don't mind. After further study of Mu/Srpp gain stage behavior to cap/resistor changes, I refined my mods to add a little more SPIT and included a BSIAB2 mod (converting Q5 from a buffer to a gain stage)(in RED) to add some more FIRE. :icon_twisted:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
@wgtp: cool...i'm all for more improvements.....any clips?... :)
wgtp, Q5 still looks like a buffer, cap in wrong position maybe.
Rob, I tried the circuit with no tone control but left the dual 2K2 and 2n2 low pass filters in place. Sounded quite good, and maybe a bit strong in the mids. The original tone control has been put back now, but it made me wonder, what if a simple mid cut control (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Simple%20400Hz%20mid%20scoop%20filter%20passive.png) were used, as well as a straight treble cut aka the Crunch Box (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Crunch%20Box.GIF). The treble cut, or not cut, might give a balance between bass and treble, and the mid cut control would fill in the hole in the middle. Just ideas...
yep thats very similar to what wgtp was suggesting early on with this project,
i did do a layout which was just the distortion with no tone at all, to be like a distortion module, that could have any tonestack added...(i wish i'd built that now just for experimental purposes...
i see what your saying.. ;) i haven't got this on bread at the moment, as i'm working on other stuff, as soon as i finish that , i'll get it boarded again
and do some more experimenting!.. ;)
Whoops, forgot to move the output of Q5 from the source to the drain. Thanks. It's fixed. ;)
As a bonus, I added a FAT mod that boosts the mids and almost makes the tone control flat at the mid point. :icon_lol:
Any cap size from 2.2n to 22n can be used there for varying the mids and action the control. Pick the 2 values you like for the switch. :icon_eek:
Replacing R13 with a 25-50k pot will function as a Bass/Mid control and should be very useful for many different tones. :icon_smile:
Keep spitting fellow Dragons. :icon_twisted:
This project and it's threadspawn rule!
:icon_smile: :icon_twisted:
CHAD
Cool to watch it evolve. ;)
More Tone Control Mods. :icon_twisted:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Is this better than the dr. boogie?
Pretty simple schematic and no more trimmers for biasing.
imo ...more versatile ;)
and yes, no bloody trimmers..yay!... ;D
so your spitfire V3 is better build than the original spitfire? schematic changed? :icon_rolleyes:
thanks..
yes, less switches etc...more to the point!..
but people are suggesting mods all the time too.... ;)
Can I please ask what are the changes in the original schematic to get the V3? I want to get that V3 sound on your Youtube video..
Thanks..
here ya go, v3 pdf's.. ;) rock on...... :icon_twisted:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94608.msg826603#msg826603
oops! :o ;D BTW, I assume this doesn't have the noise/hiss issue like the Dr. Boogie?
Thanks..
I wish I could have all that guitar skills you have on your demo videos.. ;D
Can't say for sure about the noise since some is due to construction, but just looking at Dr. Boogie again and with all those resistors and gain stages the Spitfire is surely quieter and easier to build. The basic design has been around awhile and is used in some of the most popular DIY boost overdrive/distortions.
Check this out for some theory and Mu mod to SRPP for more gain. Look for 7.7.01 article. ;)
http://www.geofex.com/
SRPP mod (for more gain and lower output impedance) and Hiss Reduction, if needed. :icon_twisted:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Whoops, did I already suggest trying it at 18 volts with 2 - 9volt batteries. No need to rebias. :icon_twisted:
All these cool mods/updates... anybody gonna post any sound clips? :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: WGTP on February 15, 2012, 01:18:17 PM
Can't say for sure about the noise since some is due to construction, but just looking at Dr. Boogie again and with all those resistors and gain stages the Spitfire is surely quieter and easier to build. The basic design has been around awhile and is used in some of the most popular DIY boost overdrive/distortions.
Check this out for some theory and Mu mod to SRPP for more gain. Look for 7.7.01 article. ;)
http://www.geofex.com/
SRPP mod (for more gain and lower output impedance) and Hiss Reduction, if needed. :icon_twisted:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Whoops, did I already suggest trying it at 18 volts with 2 - 9volt batteries. No need to rebias. :icon_twisted:
is that schematic verified already? :)
The original schematic is, unless I have messed something up in the drawing, the mods should work. Might start with the original and may not need mods. ;)
For more mod ideas, check out the Okko Diablo at the other forum. Also, the Catlinbread Formula 5. Didn't realize there are so many dual Mu/Srpp designs around.
Robert, I apologize for so many posts. ;)
pcb of this mod? :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Quote from: Maik on February 17, 2012, 06:57:05 AM
pcb of this mod? :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Sure, I would like a pcb with this mod! How long will it take you to draw? :icon_wink:
@wgtp: don't apologise man!...its all good stuff!.... i take it thats an on/on/on for the cap switching!...
@maik: go for it!...
anyone breaded it yet?... :icon_twisted:
No, the switching is pick the 2 you like best, but it could be done. ;)
Remember boys, use sockets in strategic locations. :icon_twisted:
Sorry, I don't do pcb's, just breadboards and point to point. :icon_rolleyes: :o
since it's posted on the schematic, will a 2N5457 work the same as J201's in the same pcb board as spitfire v3? less gain?
thanks..
yep, less gain though....socket em, and try a mix or just j201's.... :)
I read somewhere that a 2SK117 has much higher gain than J201? Different pin-outs though..
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 17, 2012, 06:19:04 PMSure, I would like a pcb with this mod! How long will it take you to draw? :icon_wink:
Don´t know. Never done it before :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Maik on February 20, 2012, 07:54:37 AM
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 17, 2012, 06:19:04 PMSure, I would like a pcb with this mod! How long will it take you to draw? :icon_wink:
Don´t know. Never done it before :icon_mrgreen:
No worries... I was just joking with ya. I may try to draw it up if I get some time.
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 20, 2012, 08:23:01 PM
No worries... I was just joking with ya. I may try to draw it up if I get some time.
:icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
Hi all,
I am planning to build Spitfire (probably the v1 with all switchable options).
Thinking of 2 separate Gain pots and they would be switchable using a footswitch (like I have in my Carl Martin PlexiTone).
Any suggestions where to put the switch in schematics?
Will there be any side-effects while operating the switch, like loud pops?
And what about 2 totally separate "channels" with Gain, Tone and Volume pots in the same box?
Is it easier to use 2 separate boards+pots and use a switch to select the outputs from them?
hi mpv and welcome!... ;)
i did this to a dr boogie, i had 2 vol/ 2 gains...
heres how i wired that up...it would be pretty much the same...look at the gain pot switching..
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/twinboogie+wiring+guide.png.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P240511_12_54.jpg.html
might i suggest just using a volume pedal with adjustable max/min vol pot.....it will then back off the drive or max it out.....thats what i do and it works fine...
this pedal cleans up really well just with guitar volume backed off....then full on distortion with guitar volume up...just my 2p... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 23, 2012, 05:18:05 AM
heres how i wired that up...it would be pretty much the same...look at the gain pot switching..
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/twinboogie+wiring+guide.png.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P240511_12_54.jpg.html
Thanks for a fast response!
I will check those out when starting actually building the board...
Off the topic, does anyone know good links for infos on etching aluminium enclosures?
Those examples I found look really nice but I have never done it...
http://www.scribd.com/doc/24250149/Making-a-Multicolor-Etching
But I think it is easier with HCL 30%, H2O2 30% and water mixed 1:1:1, but remember to fill in the water first. :icon_mrgreen: No need to make it warm. But use safetyglasses and rubber gloves.
just a quicky note about etching, i etched 2 boxes yesterday...the eddystone came out fine...but those rounded ones from the usa/hammond, didn't etch at all..diifferent blend of metals.....be warned. :)
therefor I use HCL and H2O2...
i'll have to give that a go one day... ;)
Jip Rob, go for it! It etches more consistent. And it takes 4 to 8 min...
Ok so I gave this one a go on the breadboard awhile ago..and to my surprise, the pedal itself has its own delay with two repeats.. ;D ;D
Though there is an audible hiss in the background, and a volume drop as compared to the bypass signal. ??? ???
delay ? ???
less than unity?... theres something wrong there....i have massive volume on mine...much much more than unity...
yes a delay..it's like you connected an echo base with this with 2 repeats setting..i disconnected some capacitors but still the delay doesn't go away so I guess this is like an added feature? ???
i dunno about the volume drop..even at max volume and max gain, it's still less than unity..
WEIRD.... are you sure your soundcard on your pc is set right.!!!...thers no way it can delay!!!!... :icon_eek:
but am interested in 'how the f... you get delay on it... :icon_eek:
defo something wrong there....should be plenty of vol and gain
got a pic of breadboard...?....or soundclip?...
Oh by the way, I used my laptop as input signal. I just played a song in the media player and set it to repeat every time the song ends. That's where I noticed the delay. The last signal from the song was repeated like the circuit itself has it's own delay. I listened again to the original song(without the circuit) and definitely there's no delay at the end of it. And when I connected the circuit again, tada the built-in delay feature is back again. ;D ;D
Can't provide photos for now as I disassembled it for a moment. But mostly I used mylar and ceramic capacitors. I used 100k for the tone control. One thing I notice on the volume drop issue is that when I remove the mod caps and just shorted them, the signal is boosted a little, but still not on unity.. I tried placing another JFET stage at the end to recover the volume loss but all I got was weird distorted signal. ???
sounds like you need to turn off 'monitoring' on your sound card!...i get delay if i have that on...
try unticking a few settings on your laptop sound device!.. ;)
you shouldn't need a recovery at all....which version were you looking at v3?....its fine, ive built 3 of them.. :)
Put a pot for delaytime and then it´s V4!
Yes, I was following the V3 layout on my breadboard..
talking of v4.. ;). i just knocked up a layout of WGTP'S mods...unverified,
not sure about how to switch between those caps either???......rotary?...what do you think?...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/WGTPSPITFIREV4.pdf
from WGTP'S MOD schematic..
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire-BSIAB+mod.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Hm, rotary? Then it´s 5 knobs...
Couldn´t it be done with an on-on-on switch?
4 knobs and a switch looks better :icon_mrgreen:
yeah 4 knobs would be best...for 1590b...
i guess it could have a 0n/0n/0n...with a tweak of the cap values yes..!..
if we came off the 1uf then had a 6.8n to a 6.8n = 3.4n
then the same 6.8n to a 10n= 5n ish..
the the same 6.8n to a .....hmmmm..... thats what i was thinking... ???
Hello all and many thanks for your fabulous work deadastronaut!
Spifire becames very fast one of my favorite distorsion pedal...I've built v2 and I want to upgrade it to v3, but I can't find any schematic of v3...have you posted one?
Best regards!
hi gigimara, great, glad you built it and like it...nice one.. :icon_twisted:
here ya go!... ;) v3 is pretty much just the same, but simplified switching..more straight to the point!
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.jpg
the pdf's are in my gallery (robert henry) ;)
I'm glad your in London and I'm in Newcastle - Oklahoma, USA in case it doesn't work. Wish I knew more about switching. Might just use sockets on standard switch and pick the 2 values that work the best for you. :icon_smile:
ha ha...i'll find ya!!!!... :D
i would bread it first anyway, but yeah thats probably best...just socket and choose.. ;)
did you bread your mod version?..
The Mu/SRPP stage is on the bread board, but is running into 2 Fetzer valve type Jfet stages after that with 2 LED's to ground from the input of the last Jfet. I have tried the various mods I've posted. Also simmed a lot of the tone control stuff. Should work if I drew things correctly. :icon_rolleyes:
I've been thinking of getting some V3 PCB's made up, doublesided 1.4" x 1.2". The PCB's would mount/hang from 16mm gain and vol pots, with the tone pot and switch connected with wires. Any interest? And would this be OK with you Rob if I made some pocket money/hobby money from doing this? If not, that is fine, no problem. I've had this PCB drawn up for near 3 weeks but haven't pulled the trigger, maybe waiting for some new development, when in fact I like it just the way it is!
Here's a pic. (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Spitfire%20photoview3.GIF)
@ian: hi man, looks good, go for it...i haven't any problem with that!... ;) as long as you verify your boards.. ;D
might i make one suggestion though, when i built mine i had the 3 pots in this way.... vol.. lugs facing down...tone pot lugs facing up...gain pot lugs down.. so they all aligned in a straight row...
so you could have all 3 pots on board...with careful measurements allowing for pcb/ lugs /component height (against pots) and pcb height in box/and importantly knob spacing when fitted etc....
i was thinking about this the other day funnily enough, great minds and all that!.. :icon_cool:
there would even be room for a battery then if needed/wanted too...
i use my etching as my drill template, ive never done onboard pots, then drilled to fit etc.....so it would be interesting..and very neat and tidy too...cool. ;)
Looks like you guys are coming up with some cool stuff! I sure wish there were some sound demos though... Doesn't have to be a youtube clip, just a simple mp3 on dropbox...maybe :icon_question: I have reverted back to the original with the 3 switches, not because I like switches but because I am able to get the best tone from that build so far... :icon_wink: Keep on tweakin!
hmmmm... ive just built a spitv3,
but theres no bass in it...ive built it to usual spec, all traces are fine, switch is working fine, its just weird, (i have another with exact same parts to compare)
the tone (47kb) when fully anti clockwise is still bright but still working ok but not got that full bass......maybe ive toasted a cap is my guess, ::)
what would you guys swap out...
c8 - 470nf
or c12 - 1uf (np)
or the 2.2n's.....c14/15...
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 29, 2012, 10:07:47 AM
hmmmm... ive just built a spitv3,
but theres no bass in it...ive built it to usual spec, all traces are fine, switch is working fine, its just weird, (i have another with exact same parts to compare)
the tone (47kb) when fully anti clockwise is still bright but still working ok but not got that full bass......maybe ive toasted a cap is my guess, ::)
what would you guys swap out...
c8 - 470nf
or c12 - 1uf (np)
or the 2.2n's.....c14/15...
eeny meeny miny mo - try all three and let us know... :icon_lol:
yeah looks like i'll have too... ::) ;)
The 2.2n's roll of the treble, so I wouldn't think they were the cause. The other 2 could be, but there are lots of caps that could be affecting the bass. C2, C6, C17.
Stick a small wire on the end of your output chord and start at the front of the circuit and touch the wire to various places in the signal path and see if you can hear where the bass drops out. Audio Probe method. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 28, 2012, 12:46:07 PM
hi gigimara, great, glad you built it and like it...nice one.. :icon_twisted:
here ya go!... ;) v3 is pretty much just the same, but simplified switching..more straight to the point!
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.jpg
the pdf's are in my gallery (robert henry) ;)
Thank you very much!
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Spitfire+Gain+Mods.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Higher gain Mods that don't require a change to the layouts. ;)
cheers wgtp: i'll have a go at that....oh yeah facepalming myself on the 2.2n's..of course!.. :icon_redface:
i'll track this bugger down... :icon_twisted:
edit: ive a sneaking suspicion that its some new caps i bought!!....hmmmm,. :-\
edit 2 : swapped c2/c6 /c17 /c9/c15/c17.....still the same...weird!......@#$%ing @#$% @#$% @#$%er :icon_evil:
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 29, 2012, 06:04:24 AM
might i make one suggestion though, when i built mine i had the 3 pots in this way.... vol.. lugs facing down...tone pot lugs facing up...gain pot lugs down.. so they all aligned in a straight row...
Like this? (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Spit%20V3%20possible%20layout.GIF) This PCB would be 2.2" x 1.4", with 0.8" between pot centres. I was thinking of using this pot here, (http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=692)they are out of stock on two of them at the moment though. The pots would mount on the back of the PCB.
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Switches/
Switching info. :icon_smile:
Quote from: Ronan on March 03, 2012, 06:30:48 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 29, 2012, 06:04:24 AM
might i make one suggestion though, when i built mine i had the 3 pots in this way.... vol.. lugs facing down...tone pot lugs facing up...gain pot lugs down.. so they all aligned in a straight row...
Like this? (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Spit%20V3%20possible%20layout.GIF) This PCB would be 2.2" x 1.4", with 0.8" between pot centres. I was thinking of using this pot here, (http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=692)they are out of stock on two of them at the moment though. The pots would mount on the back of the PCB.
They have those pots at Mammoth also.
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/category-s/46.htm
@ian, i meant still in a 'V' formation, with the pcb in the middle...like..
o o
------
o
top pots lugs facing down..'pcb style lugs'...bottom pot lugs facing up...if practical, and possible... :)
edit like this..so pcb is designed around an upstanding board...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pcbedge.jpg
edit: saying that , that would require a double sided pcb, so it may just be easier to wire the tone off board anyway....hmmmm..... just thinking aloud!.. ;)
edit again!...hmmmm
i just tried a pot attached to vero and an enclosure....it doesn't allow for much room...
8 holes high, including pots total.....not too practical imo....
probably better off using jokerx's or your (ian's) route....shame though would've been neat... :)
Yes I see what you mean, there's not a lot of vertical height in a 1590B. It could be done easily though if the resistors were mounted vertically in the PCB itself, like most commercial stompboxes of the past. I layed the resistors flat since there was room enough to do it.
I put in an order for some PCB's last night, so if they work, there will be a few available if any new builders are interested. I have found if there is a PCB (or vero layout) available, I suddenly get a lot more enthusiastic to do a build!
The pots could still be arranged in a V formation but the tone control would have to be attached with wires. It's only just gonna fit sideways in a 1590B, if I'm lucky.
cool, i look forward to seeing those!... :icon_cool:
i did try an upright layout last night, but it was just too damn small to be a comfortable build really....
busy today, some bastard tried breaking into my car and @#$%ed my lock......arghhhhhhhhhhhhhh...@#$%ing @#$% @#$%ers @#$%ing @#$%s...........@#$%s :icon_evil: :icon_evil: :icon_evil:
a pcb for the V4
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/3168/spitfirev4.png
@maik: no need to reverse the image..sorry i forgot to post the pcb pdf.. ;)
unverified: you have been warned!... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/WGTPSPITFIREPCBV4.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/WGTPSPITFIREV4.pdf
@Rob it´s reversed cause I put it on film
gotcha!.. ;)
ups, now I´m dead :icon_mrgreen:
@maik i just realised what your avatar is... invaders from mars!!!!.. brilliant film, i love an old sci-fi ufo flick!.... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
a classic quote from that film ' a spaceship?...from where?'........'from outer space!'... ha ha...brilliant!.
you gotta love 0.31-0.33 :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ury5b-qtI1Y&feature=fvsr
rinaldi, always sticking his neck out... ;D
sorry guys back on topic.. ;)
Rob:
Read through the posts and is this pedal more metal than blues? Some of your earlier sound clips, page 1-2, are dead links and what I have listened to later sound more in the metal genre, and it does sound good.
I am interested in building the pedal, but I would like to hear blues tone oozing from your pedal :icon_mrgreen:
Damn... everytime I blink my eyes you guys have a new mod..! Any audio clips of ver.4 yet? I have built a couple of these now and I still like ver.1 the best... I don't mind the extra switches because I usually just jumper two of them the way I like and use one switch anyway so no biggie... Version 4 looks interesting Rob, care to do a clip? :icon_lol: I really dig yer playing and it gives me a real good idea of what type of tone and sound I will be able to dail up...
@jok3rx, haven't tried it, i will breadboard it soon though...been busy bee lately....gotta sort my car out today!.. :icon_evil:
@textstrat, here is a demo of v3...check it out from 4:18..with volume backed off it cleans up nice for bluesy/funky stuff..
but you can get that by just turning gain down ok... ;)
Hey Rob, 0:31 is great. Thats why everybody wants kids... :icon_mrgreen:
@#$%ing right.. yeah!!!!!... ;D
Hey Rob, can I do the switching with an on-on-on switch like this?
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8103/spitfireschalterononon.png
not sure!...rotary?..
thats unverified too, you've been warned ok.. ;)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/3way%20switching%20with%207211%20DPDT.GIF
Newark/element14 sell these for around $5. One side switches then the other side switches, the two poles don't switch at the same time.
Just another option...
hmmmm...isnt it an on/on/on from that switch out?...looking at it again ....hmmmmmm.... ..(terms & conditions apply as i'm on the vino though!).... :P
.....hic.........
Hmmm. Just looking at the schematic on page 1 and C7 - 2.2nf seems too small to do much but add hiss. I wonder if it is supposed to be 2.2uf, or .22uf or 22uf, all of which would boost things with various levels of bass??? ;)
on the v3 layout c7 is 22nf..
Figured it out. I take an on-off-on SPDT and put the caps on the switch, not at the pcb.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2060/capswitching.jpg
Middle will be 3,3 and left 1,5 and right 6,8. This will give 4,8/3,3/10,1
cool...sorted, are you building the v4 then?..
@maik, wont that be halving the values...series?...or am i looking at that wrong?..
and a dpdt.. :)
Hey Rob, I think its parallel (hope so :icon_mrgreen:). And a DPDT off course :icon_mrgreen:
If C7 isn't at least 220n, I'm not sure you can here it's contribution. :o
hmmmmm.....i'm hacking a spit 3 at the mo, (the one i built that didn't have any bass for some strange reason..)
i'll swap that 22n out for a 220n and see how it differs...cheers wgtp. ;)
Quote from: Maik on March 10, 2012, 09:20:57 AM
Hey Rob, I think its parallel (hope so :icon_mrgreen:). And a DPDT off course :icon_mrgreen:
Edit: serial off course...
ahh a 0:31 moment... ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ury5b-qtI1Y&feature=fvsr
; while hacking the spit 3, ive decided to go with 3.3n for the metal modern, its just that bit tighter...and 6.8n for classic..
(the bass mysteriously apeared after poking around.).. ::)
this is with 3.3n/6.8n...
switching between..messing around n stuff...... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/3.3n6.8ncaps.mp3
So that's what your doing with this thing. Sounds good. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 12, 2012, 01:34:58 PM
this is with 3.3n/6.8n...
switching between..messing around n stuff...... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/3.3n6.8ncaps.mp3
I lean more towards the 2nd tone but I like the 1st tone also.... Sounds real damn good!!! Ok, now I am gonna have to make this thing again... This will be like the 5th board I have made of this pedal :icon_lol:
yeah sounds great...i socketed those so i could mess around, i attached my cap sub box to it and went through all values...
but its definately best in the realms of 2.2.-10n........i settled for 3.3/6.8.... :icon_twisted: :icon_cool:
I need to experiment with a 50k pot replacing the resistor in the tonestack. ;)
^ yeah i stuck with a 47k lin, i did experiment with different values across the outer lugs (croc clipping my sub box on)...had interesting results...
and different taper/range /tighter sounds too.. i kept it as standard in the end though.... :)
i fancy the next one i build/bread i'll try and tame that pots top end though..... :)
got a little angel on bread at mo....i'm after an alex lifeson sund out of the spit and la... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Just looking at Xbananov stuff. C7 should be 2.2uf, but anything from 4.7uf to .22uf will affect the "Body" of the circuit.
i'm about to put this on bread again, just for future tinkering sake...so i'll give those values a try !! ;)... :icon_twisted:
edit: got it on bread again!.... :icon_twisted: i wanted to attack that hi treble and tame it on the tone pot...sorted it.., instead of a 10k to the 1uf....try a 8.2-6.8-5.6k......
it puts the tone at 12oclock position on a 50k pot.... ;)....i'm getting mass oscillation due to breadboard, but its still great fun messing with this monster, i love the subtlety too...best of both worlds... :icon_cool:
Decreasing the R13 - 10k resistor will increase the low mids, reduce and raise the midrange notch to a higher frequency. That is where I was talking about adding a 50k pot as a Low Mid/Body control.
Increasing the C7 cap to 1uf will also increase the mids in the distortion section.
For oscillation and taming the highs, try a 1n to 4.7n cap between R6 and Q4 and/or between Q3 and Q5. Using a smaller cap in both places may be preferable to using 1 larger value cap in one place. Keep spitting. ;)
Quote from: WGTP on March 19, 2012, 01:53:35 PM
Decreasing the R13 - 10k resistor will increase the low mids, reduce and raise the midrange notch to a higher frequency. That is where I was talking about adding a 50k pot as a Low Mid/Body control.
i thought thats what you were talking about, i tried the anti-bread-oscillation tricks, but no joy, still sounds like the fat bloke on deliverance.. :D
maybe if i laid it out tighter/neater it might sort it out.... :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 20, 2012, 05:44:06 AM
Quote from: WGTP on March 19, 2012, 01:53:35 PM
Decreasing the R13 - 10k resistor will increase the low mids, reduce and raise the midrange notch to a higher frequency. That is where I was talking about adding a 50k pot as a Low Mid/Body control.
still sounds like the fat bloke on deliverance.. :D
:icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: Ha ha ha!!! Is ver 4 pretty stable? I am gonna give it a try... Anything new going on with it I should know about before I wade neck deep into this build? lol - Seems like there is always a couple mods right in the middle of it every time I etch a new board for this thing! It's a good thing, I just gotta get my timing right :icon_wink:
dunno on v4...never tried it..unverified...
ive been messing around right now with adding a 47n to ground on the left side of C15 (1uf)...tends to get a bit tighter....might be good for recording...
also ive twiddled around with that 10k (r13) at the same time with varying results..
i would suggest having a dedicated breadboard for this as its very tweakable....i have now! ::)..apart rom the @#$%ing squeeeeeellll piggy stuff... :icon_twisted:
edit: heres a clip of the 3.3n modern, with the 47n cap to ground (thrash mod) ....then with just the 3.3n, then back to the (thrash mod) 47n...i really like it...
it feels nice under your hand... i had to keep the gain down (9'0clock) to hold back squeeeelllll but you get the idea!... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/modern1%262thrashmod.mp3
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/thrash1.jpg)
edit 2: heres another clip, riff 1=3.3n modern/ riff2:=3.3n modern with 47n mod/ riff 3:=6.8n/ riff4:=6.8n with 47n mod...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/moderntests.mp3
Holy shit, I loose the second time! Don´t know why. Spitfire works for 2-3min, then it half the volume and the sound is thin.
When I hit the strings it starts as a normal distorted sound (with half volume) and then it sounds like "brrrrsssrrr". :icon_evil: Seems like the sound breaks.
Have 2 wonderfull boxes and nothing usable to put in. One is a gift... :-\
Must get them to work.
sorry to hear your probs man....check the usual stuff, joints , cap orientation etc.....did you socket the fets?..did you toast one?...
i had a similar prob, but it turned out to be the worlds tiiniest bit of solder betweeen the tone caps...get the old magnifier out... ;)
meanwhile!...da da da da da da daaaaaaa..
:icon_twisted: SPITFIRE V5 :icon_twisted:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/th_smiley_emoticons_ozboss_gitarre3.gif)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5.jpg)
Hey Rob, that sounds real good man!! You gonna post the PCB? No biggie, I can redraw it myself if not.. But I will just use yours if I can?
Thanks,
Jim
whoops yes of course!...that would help eh!.. :P
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5THRASHER.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5PCB.pdf
for those that are interested in the fuzzy part of things heres a clip using different caps, 22n/10n/4.7n/2.2n... :)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spit5fuzzcaps.mp3
I thought this morning: perhaps it´s the etching, a broken line. Have to test it today, also need to etch V5 :icon_mrgreen:
Some day I will have V3 to V....20? :icon_mrgreen:
good luck man, its really bugging when its nothing obvious....
and yes indeed v2000..... ;D
i'm looking into tonestacks again...so there may be the 'ULTIMATE SPITFIRE'.... :icon_mrgreen:
or V666 :icon_twisted:
OK then, lets do V666 :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
:icon_twisted: i'm on it... ;)
These might be cool lookin knobs on the Spitfire?
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/bullet-guitar-knob-deluxe-set.jpg)
Great knobs. The Thrash mod lowers the midrange dip a little and with the 3.3n it also makes the dip larger. Increasing C17 to 150n has a similar effect.
I've been looking at some of the Russian stuff and have tried replacing R9 and C7 with a GE or SI diode with the cathode to ground, See what you think. ;)
Quote from: WGTP on March 24, 2012, 01:53:51 PM
Great knobs. The Thrash mod lowers the midrange dip a little and with the 3.3n it also makes the dip larger. Increasing C17 to 150n has a similar effect.
I've been looking at some of the Russian stuff and have tried replacing R9 and C7 with a GE or SI diode with the cathode to ground, See what you think. ;)
WGTP,
I am building it tonight... will try your suggestions. Did you ever actually build your version 4 with 4 knobs? I would like to build that also...
Thanks
~Jim
Regarding the PS to drive this creation, there were several mentions that 18V is optimal. Has anyone tried using a 12V PS? Also, what would the minimum mA requirement be for this pedal?
I haven't built a pedal in several years. It's all on the bread boards and simulations. I have tried everything I post about, but haven't assembled it all at once. Sort of makes me look like a fraud. Most stuff is either standard stuff, or things I've found researching, or simulated. Live I use an all tube amp with Celesion speakers. That keeps me fresh on good tone.
I been working with Tone Controls a lot lately since I figured out how to sim them in LTSpice. It's cool to both see and hear what is going on. Currently on the breadboard is a Vulcan Stage - SHO Stage - Mu Amp - Tone Control. The values are constantly changing.
The 4th knob in the tone control adds lots of variation for mid-range flexibility. Probably an audio taper would work best, depending on which way it is wired. ;)
Quote from: WGTP on March 24, 2012, 01:53:51 PM
R9 and C7 with a GE or SI diode with the cathode to ground, See what you think. ;)
i'll give that a go..
@jokerx: great knobs...just make sure those are blanks ha ha..BANG!! :P ;D
@textstrat: never tried it...i only have a 9v psu.. :)
Quote from: WGTP on March 25, 2012, 02:37:18 PM
I haven't built a pedal in several years. It's all on the bread boards and simulations. I have tried everything I post about, but haven't assembled it all at once. Sort of makes me look like a fraud. Most stuff is either standard stuff, or things I've found researching, or simulated. Live I use an all tube amp with Celesion speakers. That keeps me fresh on good tone.
I been working with Tone Controls a lot lately since I figured out how to sim them in LTSpice. It's cool to both see and hear what is going on. Currently on the breadboard is a Vulcan Stage - SHO Stage - Mu Amp - Tone Control. The values are constantly changing.
The 4th knob in the tone control adds lots of variation for mid-range flexibility. Probably an audio taper would work best, depending on which way it is wired. ;)
WGTP - That's cool, keep doin what your doin man!! Bread boards and simulations work for me! I wasn't thinking of you as a fraud at all, more like somebody who really knows what he is doing... :icon_wink: I really wanted more tone control in this pedal to take down some of the highs and give it more mids etc.. When it's all on one knob you just don't get that control. You can eq it but I don't like doing that to make big tonal changes... Anyway, I enjoy all of your input in this forum!!
+1 to wgtp's input...its always welcome whether you build it or not is irrelevant as its well tried n tested theory/knowledge....far beyond mine thats for sure!..its all good stuff! :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
@jokerx: i have bass and treble tone controls on a seperate breadboard at the moment that i'm tweaking in conjunction with
the thrash/cap mods i started off with this 'middle one...its good as the bass/treble are independant of each other...unlike a few ive tried ::)....tweaking as we speak. :icon_cool:
i just want a bit more bass out of it.... :icon_twisted:
http://www.muzique.com/lab/atone.htm
Quote from: WGTP on March 25, 2012, 02:37:18 PM
I haven't built a pedal in several years. It's all on the bread boards and simulations. I have tried everything I post about, but haven't assembled it all at once. Sort of makes me look like a fraud.
No way... a fraud is some kid who finds his dad's magazines, figure's that his dad is cool, so he's gonna try to be cool now after ignoring the stuff all his life. How does he try to be accepted and "Cool"? By mimicking Mark Hammer and scanning articles from magazines with his own "This is a great circuit! Here's my analysis" (and I obviously don't know what I'm talking about, but I'm gonna keep talking anyways) attached to the posting. Later, a REAL fraud will talk people into stealing software, and somehow seem to think that knowing which compressor is a REAL compressor is just basic electronics, and anyone who doesn't know should go back to school with their VCR's and stuff. :icon_evil: :icon_evil: :icon_evil:
Lol... at least you own a breadboard and give some great ideas and input. You go much beyond that, but you
at least experiment and research, not just assume your knowledge from a magazine article from the mid-80's. :icon_biggrin: We're all here to build, learn, share, and enjoy. I think of "frauds" to be the types that come on here and
pretend just so they can just socialize. It's kind of understandable, since there's hardly a board out there without some kind of niche attached to it, but still, some people just have some issues they should get over so that they could lose the social retardedness and hang out with people normally. To me, it's all in the fakery, or sincerity.
^well put!..
looking at tone controls etc..i guess what we ultimately would like/need is a bass / treble and a notch filter (which btw wgtp did suggest early on) to get as many tonal possibilites
out of it as possible....or parametric?......just thinking aloud!... :)
in laymans terms (which i understand) a bass / treble...with a moveable centre freq <> to cover everything.....possible?....i lack the knowledge to perform such endeavours though...
i can do the bass treble (standard controls) , but how would a moveable centre freq be wired?...any thoughts as i'm a dumbass... ;D
I've played around with a muff filter using a dual gang pot to move the center. That was accidental, I was actually trying to make a different mid control and hooked it up wrong. Only thing I ran into for a snag was that I couldn't quite get a smooth shift because I dropped and subsequentially tapered the value of one gang in half. The notch, according to DTS, was getting deeper and shallower through the sweep, which makes sense with one gang being tapered.
Food for thought.
hmmm....say i have this graph, and i want to adjust the scoop section fully left/right (pot adjustable)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/tonesweep.jpg)
but using these simple tone controls (middle one)
http://www.muzique.com/lab/atone.htm
how would i add a pot to shift that?....sorry for the dumb ?'s.... :)
edit: passively, preferably... ;)
Thanks guys. What I was thinking was that I don't actually put the stuff in a box and use it on stage. I (over) use a 40 year old Echoplex and that is about all I can manage and remember which song I'm playing. ;)
OK how about this tone control I stumbled upon while simming the Spitfire tone control. The mid-range dip of the Spitfire tone control moves forward and reduces as the Treble is reduced (similar to other tone controls). It is basically a BMP with one of the resistor values set to infinity. Using the switch for the different cap values allows you to sort of tweak the mids and treble content.
Adding a resistor between Q5 and the tone control may shift the bass treble balance towards the bass. Start with 10k.
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WGTP/Tone+Control.jpg.html
This one is different in that the mid-range doesn't move in frequency when adjusted (I wanted to identify where I liked the mid notch the most :icon_rolleyes:). Replacing the 2 resistors with a dual gang pot should slide it up and down in frequency while the existing pot adjusts the Treble. I haven't tried this one, since I just change the resistors on the breadboard. A separate pot for each resistor would allow even more flexibility, but get a little crazy. Doing much more than this will probably require active tone controls. :icon_cool:
@wgtp: cool, so are you adding this to the existing tone control?...or replacing it with this one after the mode caps?...
i'll give it a go on its own first... :)
heres a clip of the notch tone...with a 10k off Q5 to a 3.3n..then notch tone (6.8k's)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/notchtone.mp3
doesn't seem to change much until a little treble bunched at the end, is this right?....or is it meant to be used in conjunction with the other tone?
i'll have a tinker.. ;)
This would replace the existing tone control. You could add the 2 resistors and caps on the end if you wanted to. Unfortunately most of the change is at the end of the pot. I'm not sure if an audio taper pot would help or make it worse.
The PCB's arrived. Will try to get one built this weekend to verify.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/SpitPCB1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/SpitPCB2.JPG
I was thinking of a Tonemender for another pedal, but it might might work well for this too. It has bass treb mid and gain controls. Maybe put both in the same box and see what happens :)
Switchable frequency for the midrange dip. Details here:
http://www.runoffgroove.com/tonemender.html
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Spit%20TonemenderPCBs1.JPG
Heres a moveable notch in the big muff tone control done with a dual gang log pot
(http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/9610/moveablenotch.jpg)
There is however some interactivity between the two controls, however it has a pretty good range
Here is version 5 with onboard pots... :icon_wink: The layout is pretty much the same as Rob's but there are 2 added jumper wires on the Vol and Gain... No parts diag so you will have to flex your brain muscle :icon_eek:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/Spitfire%20V5%20Onboard%20Pots%201.jpg)
wow you guys have been busy!...
@wgtp: gotcha, i got it to sound nice last night, but yeah it still bunches up at the end. more tinkering i guess.
@ian: very nice indeed. very pro. :icon_cool: as f.../ i might lift that stack and try it passively tacked on the end.....hmmmmm...i think after all we are going to need/demand good tonal tweakability..
@simon: thats an interesting one...i 'll give that a go with 2 pots...(havent got a dual)
@jokerx: another cool layout!.. ;) let us know if those mods work ok.. ;)
@rob: stop drinking tea and get the @#$% on with it... ;D
cheers guys appreciate all your input... ;).........looks likely that this is going to end up 1590bb. ::)
No d'astro, the Enclosure is called 1590A.
Quote from: Perrow on March 27, 2012, 06:34:36 AM
No d'astro, the Enclosure is called 1590A.
erm...i'll let you do that one!...let me know how you get on.. :D
Guess it's time to order some 9mm pots and fire up diylc :D
@pelle:yeah ha ha...that'd be cool.... ;)
@ian: i like the look of that tonemender, with switching caps etc... i have a passive version on bread at the moment, but the mid lug1 has got me puzzled
because its passive....hmmmm...i'll mess around, the treble seems nice though as is, sounds a bit like satch/saraceno/ not harsh at all.....hmmmmm.....possibilities
may need a buffer on the end though...
edit: sussed it, i'm using the 'fender' stack from the calculator....its quite good actually.....i'll tweak some values and whack a clip up later...busy today...got to sort out a mates poxy pc.... ::)
Your original tone control has a Fenderish notch to it when rotated CCW. I have thought about using the Marshal with the Bass and Mid either fixed, or with trim pots and using the Treble as the tone control on the outside of the box. :icon_cool:
http://gtlab.net/gtlab2/readarticle.php?article_id=33
Something a little different to try. X bananov seems to know his stuff. :icon_cool:
I can see where this is going...bass mid treb seems to work for most guitarists...it will fit in a 1590B, if not like this, (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/guvnorclone3.JPG) then with all knobs on top. One and 2 knob eq's are a compromise IMO, so is a 3 knob, but much less so. The Marshall guvnor tone stack works well too (on a guvnor). The single tone and trimpot "presence" control on a crunch box work well, would like to give that a go this wkd too. I've found that with a 3 knob tone control, most of the parts can be mounted on the pots themselves and the rest air-wired if necessary, don't really need a PCB.
The Q5 is a buffer so it should drive the tone controls no worries, but a buffer or gain stage on the end might be needed, which you did mention Rob.
I'll see what I can build this wkd, speculating gets me nowhere.
@wgtp: cool, of course the xbananaanananananaov stuff.....where the whole thing started....full circle eh!... ;)
i'll give that mid/hi/lo a go and see how it sounds....cheers!.
@ian: yeah BMT is ideal i guess, as long as there isn't too much interactivity with each pot affecting each other....which this fender one does somewhat....
but it has the foundation of a pretty good stack....if tweaked..
cool stuff guys!!!.... :)
Quote from: Ronan on March 28, 2012, 03:37:14 AM
I can see where this is going...bass mid treb seems to work for most guitarists...it will fit in a 1590B, if not like this, (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/guvnorclone3.JPG) then with all knobs on top. One and 2 knob eq's are a compromise IMO, so is a 3 knob, but much less so. The Marshall guvnor tone stack works well too (on a guvnor). The single tone and trimpot "presence" control on a crunch box work well, would like to give that a go this wkd too. I've found that with a 3 knob tone control, most of the parts can be mounted on the pots themselves and the rest air-wired if necessary, don't really need a PCB.
The Q5 is a buffer so it should drive the tone controls no worries, but a buffer or gain stage on the end might be needed, which you did mention Rob.
I'll see what I can build this wkd, speculating gets me nowhere.
If you've only got two controls that can both cut and boost, you can get the effect of boosting the third one by cutting the first two and adjusting the overall volume to fit and vice versa. Kind of like what you have to do to get mid scoop sound with a bandaxall tonestack -> boost the bass and treble and you're left with a smiley face.
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 27, 2012, 06:37:38 AM
Quote from: Perrow on March 27, 2012, 06:34:36 AM
No d'astro, the Enclosure is called 1590A.
erm...i'll let you do that one!...let me know how you get on.. :D
Ok, this should be 1590A'able. Go for small pots and submini switches and place the jacks high and the stompswitch far down, watch for height of components (may I suggest going for multi layer ceramic caps?).
The layout follows version five (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94608.msg840843#msg840843) quite well, wiring should be "easy" looking at that layout.
(http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Perrow_MLP/Builds/Layouts%20and%20transfers/Spitfire1590A.png)
Nota bene: Not verified :)
Some pics, progress has been made, despite missing some minor parts like a stereo input jack, knobs, paint job, etc...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/DSCF0896.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/DSCF0899.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/DSCF0901.JPG
I do like the 100K for tone control. Sound is very good, but I have a hum problem when not playing that I can look forward to in the morning. Nite all. :)
@ian: looking good man!... :icon_cool:
I'll repost my slightly improved, but still unverified, layout this evening :)
The Valve Jr. I play thru doens't have tone controls, so I simmed this one until I got this tone control to mimic the Treble control of the Marshall stack, as well as the mid-range dip. It's a little flatter than the standard one, so it should have some more mid-range to it.
C8 3.3n
C10 5.6n
C17 10n
R13 100k
Quote from: Perrow on April 02, 2012, 07:11:49 AM
I'll repost my slightly improved, but still unverified, layout this evening :)
The days are sooooo long now :P
yay!...i'm back from my week away...now i can crack on again..i missed my breadboard big time... ;)
ive been swayed by jim to try the amt cab sim on this....i'll give it a crack later!!!!..
i'll try those wgtp mods to0 as i still have a spitty breadboarded....back soon....ish!..
@perrow: stop being lazy.... :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 11, 2012, 07:49:17 AM
stop being lazy.... :icon_mrgreen:
OK
(http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Perrow_MLP/Builds/Layouts%20and%20transfers/Spitfire1590A-1.png)
Still unverified, and the extra solder pad still hasn't appeared on the layout (just on the transfer). Now D'Astro, go buy some 1590A's and start building :icon_twisted:
:icon_mrgreen:
ive got 2 1590a's...one is for an amp....and the other?...hmmm maybe!... ;)
I've got 6 1590BB's so don't be afraid to get big :icon_wink:
^ indeed i won't...
full stack , cab sim etc..(which i'm breading right now!)......for the ultimate spitty... :icon_twisted:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 12, 2012, 07:43:12 AM
^ indeed i won't...
full stack , cab sim etc..(which i'm breading right now!)......for the ultimate spitty... :icon_twisted:
Excited! :icon_twisted:
can i use spitfire as a preamp for a diy solid state amp? :icon_biggrin:
would this be able to emulate some tube-like sounds?
or respond to picking intensity?
thanks.. ;D
i don't see why not.. :)...it sounds great through an amp/cab..more ballsy
i was going to build a SIMPLE small amp (for camping) with the spit in it...you may want to explore tonestacks if your going to build it in an amp though..
while i'm here ,ive been looking at cab sims with jokerx, but so far haven't got it to work.. :'(
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97072.0
maybe someone with more knowledge could chime in on that...anyone?.. ;)
another preamp? or works like a power amp?
would it be better as a closed cab? or an open one? ;)
spit----then clean amp...just like normal pedal-amp
not sure on the cab question, depends on a lot of variables....
you can always stick a removable panel on the back and have both.. ;)
Hi i like Spitfire, the name really suits it. Can u post schematic pls?
in my gallery... ;)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3.jpg.html
also a pcb and layout pdf's ok...for the v3.
have fun. :icon_twisted:
Cool, thnx. I suck when it comes to reading layouts, i get easily lost there. Is there a big difference between v3 and v5?
v3 is the bog standard good all rounder..
v5 has more bells n whistles..fuzz/tone caps switching...
breadboard it and try em out...see if you like it..
i use the v3 all the time now...can be subtle, to heavy with just your volume.... :)
How it reacts with guitar volume/strings/harder picks/picking?
Quote from: JebemMajke on April 19, 2012, 10:54:10 AM
How it reacts with guitar volume/strings/harder picks/picking?
its good...check out the demo of volume on guitar lowered...its got good tonal character...
ive been playing 32 years and its fine for vaious styles..heavy blues/metal etc etc.....on this pedal i had it switching between 4.7 and 6.8 caps..
on the one i have now its 3.3 and 6.8... the 3.3 just tightens up the metal mode more... :icon_twisted:
demo is not through an amp, just a mixer ok...bear that in mind.......i'll do an amp demo one day... ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ1y8gikPqQ
Ok, I will check it out.
Btw here are some speaker simulators, it's a Russian site, but still electronics are the same no matter the language.
http://www.guitar-gear.ru/index.php?p=proj&id=40
http://www.guitar-gear.ru/index.php?p=proj&id=47
http://www.guitar-gear.ru/index.php?p=proj&id=59
cheers man, i'll check those out...thanks a lot!... ;)
I'm finding the the by-pass caps can be smaller than usual to reduce bass and in effect get more treble. 100n to 470n are cool.
I'm going to stick an SHO in front or maybe the middle and reduce the gain elsewhere. :icon_twisted:
Has anyone tried replacing the 2.2k source resistors to ground with GE or SI diodes. I'm interested in what you think. ;)
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on April 19, 2012, 08:38:38 AM
can i use spitfire as a preamp for a diy solid state amp? :icon_biggrin:
would this be able to emulate some tube-like sounds?
or respond to picking intensity?
thanks.. ;D
Don - Phil. - Just fyi, I use the Spitfire v3 as a preamp all the time and in my opinion it is where it really shines!!! I have used it running right into my B.K. Butler MosValve power amp and it sounds insanely good!!! From the pedal I run into a delay pedal into a stereo chorus pedal then splits into stereo into the right and left channels of the power amp then runs into a 4x12 cab that I wired for stereo. The high end of the tone knob that has somewhat too much treble is totally usable in this setup! Sounds like the a hot rodded Marshall - Brown Sound early VanHalen I,II sound! Really good tube sound, better than most actual tube amps! I also run it direct into my DAW and I use Marshall - Celestion G12M 25 watt Greenbacks 8 Ohm 4x12 Cab impulses.... Sounds amazing!!! So, yeah you can absolutely use it as a preamp! The only thing that I wish was different is the tone stack... needs a bass/mid/treble stack for better preamp type tone shaping.. not a real big deal but would be nice and not something I have seen in hardly any BSIAB variants...
Edit: I have also run it into the FX return of my brothers 5150 II thus bypassing the amps preamp and going into the power section of the amp... Guess what? Killer!!! :icon_twisted:
Edit Again: Damn Rob, we gotta get a good cab sim for this thing!!!
@wgtp: i'll give those diodes a go today.... and report back ok... ;)
@jim: sounds like a good setup you have going there....nice!...
ive tried a few stacks on it, but it tends to lose its 'thick' tubey character when replacing the original tone....(which i worked on for ages) ::)
a full stack is going to need more than a few tweaks in the tsc or other stacks ive tried to get that the same and adjustable........we'll get there in the end i'm sure!... ;)
@wgtp: any ideas on splitting the tone control into its seperate BMT parts freq wise?....mr tonemeister ;).....that'd be cool... :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 20, 2012, 02:30:41 AM
any ideas on splitting the tone control into its seperate BMT parts freq wise?....mr tonemeister ;).....that'd be cool... :)
Craig Anderton's super tone control (http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7786/andertonsupertonecontrozr1.gif) can do that. Tried and proven circuit, very versatile, also has adjustable freq and resonance. Capable of very good results.
^ looks cool...have you built that?.. :icon_cool:
Quote from: J0K3RX on April 20, 2012, 12:22:33 AM
Don - Phil. - Just fyi, I use the Spitfire v3 as a preamp all the time and in my opinion it is where it really shines!!! I have used it running right into my B.K. Butler MosValve power amp and it sounds insanely good!!! From the pedal I run into a delay pedal into a stereo chorus pedal then splits into stereo into the right and left channels of the power amp then runs into a 4x12 cab that I wired for stereo. The high end of the tone knob that has somewhat too much treble is totally usable in this setup! Sounds like the a hot rodded Marshall - Brown Sound early VanHalen I,II sound! Really good tube sound, better than most actual tube amps! I also run it direct into my DAW and I use Marshall - Celestion G12M 25 watt Greenbacks 8 Ohm 4x12 Cab impulses.... Sounds amazing!!! So, yeah you can absolutely use it as a preamp! The only thing that I wish was different is the tone stack... needs a bass/mid/treble stack for better preamp type tone shaping.. not a real big deal but would be nice and not something I have seen in hardly any BSIAB variants...
Edit: I have also run it into the FX return of my brothers 5150 II thus bypassing the amps preamp and going into the power section of the amp... Guess what? Killer!!! :icon_twisted:
Edit Again: Damn Rob, we gotta get a good cab sim for this thing!!!
hey, thanks for sharing man.. :D
about the tonestack, this could work perhaps..
the one in "0p" is actually "10p" and the ICs are Dual Opamps.
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on August 07, 2011, 09:23:01 PM
(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/636/61876921.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/61876921.jpg/)
I'm not aware of anything new and wonderful with passive circuits. There is the standard Fender, Marshal and Vox stacks modeled with the Duncan Tone Stack or the Baxandall which might be good to have if your already using the standard ones in your amp. Some people "scale" them for less resistance. ROG has a couple of interesting things. The one above looks good. You almost have to go active to get very "detailed" tone control. ;)
hmmm...so that tonestack above needs a voltage divider...say 9v-100k-100k-ground ...
and between the 100ks connected to the 1/2 v's...
i take it the freq is a dual 47k pot...or is it best as 2 seperate 47k's..?..just curious.. :)
best on 2 opamps rather than a quad too i guess...
:don: wtf is that avatar?... ;D
yep.. a dual 47k pot.. though i'm not really sure if it's good when separated.
also i'm thinking of quad instead of dual opamps..
it would depend on which layout is more or less flexible. ::)
does this schematic need to be "scaled" too? ???
i'm not sure though where to connect this tonestack to the current V3 schematic.
i think right after the last JFET would do it but i also want that modern/classic cap mod.. ???
:i found this avatar funny though.. ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 22, 2012, 04:01:35 PM
sorry to hear your probs man....check the usual stuff, joints , cap orientation etc.....did you socket the fets?..did you toast one?...
i had a similar prob, but it turned out to be the worlds tiiniest bit of solder betweeen the tone caps...get the old magnifier out... ;)
meanwhile!...da da da da da da daaaaaaa..
:icon_twisted: SPITFIRE V5 :icon_twisted:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/th_smiley_emoticons_ozboss_gitarre3.gif)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5.jpg)
I'm beginning to suspect that you haven't verified this layout.
Looking at Q1, "D" is connected to three different caps, i.e. no DC on that one and can also be shorted to ground with the Fuzz switch, "S" is only connected to ground, via one resistor and a cap. I was trying to mentally follow the signal on my 1590A layout and got stumped, so I had to check your layout and couldn't find anything that differed, went back to page one and to V3 and they're Q1s are connected quite differently, so how
should V5 look?
hi pelle: ive built the page 1 version, and the v3 version all ok......check this schemo as a reference.... ;)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3.jpg.html (schemo)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3.pdf.html
and yep that 'fuzz' cap does go to ground (socket to taste)....haven't built v5 as yet, but looks ok.....
correcto!..Q1's drain is connected to Q2's source!......oh hold on i'll check again...
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3.jpg.html
ahhh isee what you mean..on v5 that fuzz cap .....hmmm....yeah it should be connected to the source of Q2....then the switch under it...
give me a bit i'll sort it ok......well spotted. ;)
here ya go ...sorted...good catch man!.. ;)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5THRASHER.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5PCB.pdf
And the still unverified 1590A Layout.
(http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Perrow_MLP/Builds/Layouts%20and%20transfers/Spitfire1590A-2.png)
full of curly mojo..... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 26, 2012, 02:57:59 AM
here ya go ...sorted...good catch man!.. ;)
Sadly I didn't spot it before etching and stuffing the board, I'm still a few capacitors short of completing it so I haven't tried it yet.
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 26, 2012, 07:28:48 AM
full of curly mojo..... ;)
Always :icon_mrgreen:
@perow hey...thats a spitfire. bet it adds to the mojo factor.
never noticed that before, nice touch ;D
just got my J201s and on to the breadboard!
after the baby sleeps...
cant work at all with a 2 yr old ard.
arrrgh...the wait!
Try it with a two year old AND a five year old ;D
wow this thing rules!
i'll have to order more caps to do mods and hear what you guys been talking abt.
i do need an advise.
im having difficult time finding log pot (for the gain) locally.i learned fm geofex how to hack a linear pot to mimic log taper.however the largest pot i can find is 1Mohm and RG advised that the load the hack gives is only 20% of the pot value (200Kohm only).
im not sure but can the first stage drive this kind of load?
will i lose some highs if i employ this hack with my 1Mohm pot?
is there a way to get around this with what i have?
much appreciate your advise.
hi bon:
do you mean you have a 1M linear pot?...
i wouldn't bother hacking a lin to be a log..
the only difference i think you'll get is the actual travel 'sweep' action as you turn it...but you will still have full gain on max!.. :icon_twisted:
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 28, 2012, 03:48:58 AM
hi bon:
do you mean you have a 1M linear pot?...
i wouldn't bother hacking a lin to be a log..
the only difference i think you'll get is the actual travel 'sweep' action as you turn it...but you will still have full gain on max!.. :icon_twisted:
high gain is good, but every little now and then, we all need some blues :icon_mrgreen:
which btw, i think the low gain stuff this pedal offers is also great!
yep sure is!... :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 26, 2012, 02:57:59 AM
here ya go ...sorted...good catch man!.. ;)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5THRASHER.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5PCB.pdf
where C2 in this layout?
There never was a C2 in this layout! :icon_mrgreen:
C2 was from outer space... :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Perrow on April 26, 2012, 07:24:01 AM
And the still unverified 1590A Layout.
(http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Perrow_MLP/Builds/Layouts%20and%20transfers/Spitfire1590A-2.png)
The layout looks great, which is the software?
Quote from: Crontox102098 on November 13, 2012, 06:15:02 PM
But how do the curves? look great ..
I've gotten that question before, maybe it's time to write a "how to" on "Perrow style DIYLC" ;D
QuoteI've gotten that question before, maybe it's time to write a "how to" on "Perrow style DIYLC"
Please do. You're layouts are beautiful - like eye-candy.
Quote from: Perrow on November 14, 2012, 02:33:28 AM
Quote from: Crontox102098 on November 13, 2012, 06:15:02 PM
But how do the curves? look great ..
I've gotten that question before, maybe it's time to write a "how to" on "Perrow style DIYLC" ;D
Yeah man, please how to?
The how to is up on the wiki, I'll provide a link as soon as I'm not on the phone.
Quote from: Perrow on April 26, 2012, 07:24:01 AM
And the still unverified 1590A Layout.
(http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Perrow_MLP/Builds/Layouts%20and%20transfers/Spitfire1590A-2.png)
What size has the pcb?
Quote from: Maik on November 15, 2012, 09:58:49 AM
What size has the pcb?
.1 inch pitch, count rows and columns and multiply. The image should print correctly at 300 dpi.
http://rumbust.net/Perrow+Style+DIYLC+PCBs (http://rumbust.net/Perrow+Style+DIYLC+PCBs)
Quote from: Perrow on November 15, 2012, 03:31:10 PM
http://rumbust.net/Perrow+Style+DIYLC+PCBs (http://rumbust.net/Perrow+Style+DIYLC+PCBs)
I am gonna have to try this! Great job and thanks for sharing that... I don't know why I never tried to use curved traces? Your boards really are very cool!!
nice one perrow: 8)
btw guys, the chorus is verified too... ;)
@maiik, if perrow did the layout, you can be sure it works!!!.. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 17, 2012, 05:19:41 AM
@maiik, if perrow did the layout, you can be sure it works!!!.. ;)
How I wish that was true :icon_cry:
i'm sure it is...don't be modest!.. ;)
So I built the spitfire on slacker's vero layout, and after I had soldered everything up, I noticed cab42's comment that C2 and C4 were switched. I had plugged it in to my amp, and with a bit of debugging (such as finding out my expensive footswitch was buggered) I got a clean, and rather tube-ish sound, with a bit of nice sounding distortion (a family member commented that it sounded like fleetwood mac). Having C2 and C4 switched wouldn't lower the gain that much would it? I am also using 2n5485 jfets instead of j201s, which i am unable to buy here in NZ, but that shouldn't lower the gain too much either. Any thoughts?
slackers vero layout?...link?
the spitty v3 should go from cleanish overdrive to full on metalness..but still retain that tubey type sound...
I still have a few V3 pcb's lying around here not doing anything, if anyone wants one.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/SpitPCB1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/SpitPCB2.JPG
No beautiful curves, like what Pelle does, I do like those curves.
^ nice, very posh... 8)
Stuff veroboard, I think it's time to buy some j201s from small bear, and a decent metal box, and also try making a PCB. Do you have any PCBs left Ronan?
Quote from: Ronan on December 18, 2012, 05:41:54 AM
I still have a few V3 pcb's lying around here not doing anything, if anyone wants one.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/SpitPCB1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/SpitPCB2.JPG
No beautiful curves, like what Pelle does, I do like those curves.
PCB arrived today. Looks great! Cheers!
^ cool glad to see someone else building this.
not sure on ronans layout, but on my pdf
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47087
c16 is a 100uf. ok.
c10/11 are the caps for modern/classic switch. i settled on 3.3n/6.8n......you may want to socket those to taste.
have fun. :icon_twisted:
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 03, 2013, 04:05:39 AM
^ cool glad to see someone else building this.
not sure on ronans layout, but on my pdf
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47087
c16 is a 100uf. ok.
c10/11 are the caps for modern/classic switch. i settled on 3.3n/6.8n......you may want to socket those to taste.
have fun. :icon_twisted:
Awesome! thanks for a great circuit! I'm looking forward to this one ;D
Looks like 4.7n/6.8n on my layout, but anything that will fit can go in there.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/61170900/Spitfire%20build%20overlay.GIF
Here's the schematic for V3:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.jpg
Edward, still have some pcb's, just send me a pm if you want one. It's the version 3 schematic.
ian, thats a nice layout you did there, :icon_cool:
@nomorebetts: before you whack it in a box experiment with the tone pot value , try 25k - 50 - 100k.
i tried a 22k on it and it seemed to squeeze it nicely....depends on your taste/style i guess , but its good either way.. :icon_twisted:
i must get round to a full tone stack versionof the spitty one day.......one day. ;)
Must get around to etch a new board from my layout and try to verify it, then order 9mm pots and start squeezing it into a 1590A ;D
^ why do your posts add 'Sv' to the title? ???
Swedish for "Re:" :) guess it's a setting in Tapatalk, I've noticed it before and was slightly annoyed with it, I'll see if I can "fix" it.
Edit: no, no setting for language in Tapatalk, you'll have to learn to live with it.
just for wanking...my new Spitfire V5.
Etched and colored
http://imageshack.us/a/img716/3489/030tvr.jpg
just for what?.... :icon_eek:
looks sick.. 8).....looks like a silk screen
you do know thats never been verified don't you?.....should be ok though. ;)
Damn Rob. I made a second box right now...
But I think it will work after somebody found the mistake with the Fuzz-Condensator.
Will tell you after veryfing...
Happy eastern
0:29-0:32 ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ury5b-qtI1Y
condensator?
eastern?
;D
Hey Rob i made the board tonight.
I'll solder up the switch and pots tommorow .
I know i've gone wrong somewhere already but hopefully i'll be able to debug it.
Looking forward to hearing it
Rich
hi Rich, great, its well worth a build...
hopefully you'll love it, i use mine all the time now..
look forward to seeing/hearing your build man.. 8)
with mine i socketed C10/11....for the modern i suggest 3.3n, classic 6.8-10n..
What a doufuss i forgot to socket those even though i read it earlier.
Anyway i'll have to debug in the morning now it's getting late again and i know it doesnt pass audio i. I just put it on the test rig and ziltch,nada not a peep.
Oh well i should be used to it by now.
i'll let you know how i get on.
I'm gonna look up the voltages page now.
lol...
remeber C16 is 100uf.. ;)
i must remember to update the pdf.. ::)
i've just changed that or i wont sleep the same thanks
Rob, I gotta build this again! This is the main pedal that got me mad obsessed with the whole high gain thing!
Just started building V3 after I finally got some very nicely matched J201s. Very excited, just need some other minor bits to finish it. This thread and Jok3rx's (engl is on the list...) high gain threads are great. High as FK gain for life. Big ups to deadastronaught on this. I've listened to the demo for too long to not build it. Thank you man. I'll do a demo no doubt, my high gain sound needs some serious work in my newer rig.
hi jim, yeah you should man, the mu amp setup is nice n quiet (noiseless biasing) ..you should try that out on your hi gainers.....stick a nice (carvin maybe) stack on it and your away...
ive just been looking at 'active' stacks actually...i'm looking for ''independent' control over bass/mid/treble..instead of the same old
interactive stacks...they always 'lack' something ...too much interactivity,
with these hi gainers its all in the EQ imo...
i now have one of my breadboards dedicated to messing with tone controls...i'm going to try out a carvin BMTP in a bit...looks interesting.
then i'll attack some active stuff and see how it goes...
@smooth, go for it man... :icon_twisted:..look forward to the demo too... :icon_twisted:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 31, 2013, 09:31:39 PM
hi jim, yeah you should man, the mu amp setup is nice n quiet (noiseless biasing) ..you should try that out on your hi gainers.....stick a nice (carvin maybe) stack on it and your away...
ive just been looking at 'active' stacks actually...i'm looking for ''independent' control over bass/mid/treble..instead of the same old
interactive stacks...they always 'lack' something ...too much interactivity,
with these hi gainers its all in the EQ imo...
i now have one of my breadboards dedicated to messing with tone controls...i'm going to try out a carvin BMTP in a bit...looks interesting.
then i'll attack some active stuff and see how it goes...
@smooth, go for it man... :icon_twisted:..look forward to the demo too... :icon_twisted:
Yeah, I was looking at some sort of sansamp active eq... You know on actual tube amps the eq really does next to nothing the louder you get so it's kinda universal in that sense... There are a few stacks that I am interested in - Blackstar, Framus Cobra, and Carvin... Carvin looks really interesting!
(http://gr1ng0.tripod.com/Leegazzy/Calvin_Layupe.jpg)
yep thats the one i was checking out... 8)
then i found this....interesting .. :icon_idea:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/carvin2.png)
what is that from? Looks similar to the sansamp active but there are obviously differences... The Spitfire would be totally awesome'r with a real good tone control!!! Not that it isn't already totally awesome but it would just be that much more awesome, ya know! I need something better for the stuff I am working on also!
Have you seen this one?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=71716.0
i lifted it from on here somewhere..no link sorry..but looks worth a try.
that one looks cool going by the write up too..
yeah the spitty could do with a revamp...i always kept it simple, but a nice full 'proper' stack would be brilliant..
ive got the stack from the bass preamp after it at the mo just for the hell of it, , and makes it tighter/punchier instantly...
but loses the flow of the lead sound though i find...as is the problem with hi gain punchy sounds, great for riffin, but feels a bit stiff for leads sometimes..
its just getting the balance right i guess...those stacks are on my list anyway... ;)
Rob did you post the voltages. I thought i'd seen them somewhere but i can seem to find them now. Despite trawling through all 23 pages.
Can you pm me a latest v3 thats had the componants (C16) updated if you have a link pls
I still cant get mine to work.
thanks
I've got it working i had a bridge at R6. me and my blobby soldering.
It sounds amazing.
That tone stack is so effective.
I might have to rip that one of for use in my piglet.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7ma9n53c5jqdgsr/d-0TvwYXDL#f:Spitfire%20tone%20stack.jpg
Is this the tone stack or have i included some bit that are not needed? if it was transposed to a differant circuit.?
thanks
hi rich, glad you got it working ok...nice one.
yep that's the tone control...cool init!!.. 8)
Very ccol mate where did that one come from does it have a name? The tone stack.
It's one heck of a good sound lots of gain. (it's making the amp squeel when in my test box , not ideal test box)
lots of useable sounds from the dark and manacing to biting, responsive, treble screaming and lots of crunch between.
Good job. Thanks again to you Rob and everyone else who helped you.
I like that there arent too many parts. I treid it with 2n5457s but i prefer it with J201s.
Come to think of it it only squeeled when i put the j201s in in the sockets. mmmmm
i made up the stack as i went along..i tried the usual BMP and others, but was never happy with em....they always lost the chunk, but this one retains most of the chunk even when adding treble..
if you shield the input you shouldn't have any squeel at all..and should be near silent too..... :icon_twisted:
yep j201's definately... :icon_twisted:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 01, 2013, 03:37:16 PM
i made up the stack as i went along..i tried the usual BMP and others, but was never happy with em....they always lost the chunk, but this one retains most of the chunk even when adding treble..
Well done sir excellant work.
The tone stack from the Carvin amp is a variation of the James tone control. The active version of the James tone control is the Baxandall tone control. Rob's tone control is a version of the Baxandall tone control. Pretty interesting one also.
You can use the famous Duncan's Tone Stack Calculator (http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/) to play with the values.
I saw quite a few threads on this topic, from which the main idea seems to be that James/Baxandall tone control is better suited for lower gain, especially when we're talking amps.
BUT Rob's version doesn't have the usual two shelving filters and it is behaving more like an graphic equalizer with 4 wide bands around 60Hz (bass), 700Hz (mid), 5kHz (treble) and 10kHz (presence). The simulation looks like this:
(http://s22.postimg.org/una5y1qm9/rob_tone_stack_animated.gif)
The separation, though, doesn't look that good (bass - blue, mid - green, treble - pink, presence - red):
(http://s22.postimg.org/bjguhpds1/rob_tone_stack_overlay.gif)
Maybe you wanna try a gyrator circuit a la Metal Zone. Aron has a Gyrator Filter Calculator (http://www.muzique.com/lab/gyrator.htm) that you can use to tune it to your needs.
Mine sounded great but i had to do some mods as it made my rig squeel when the tone and gain were maxed out.
I changed the gain pot 1meg for a 100k and its reigned it in a bit and the gain range is a lot more useful now for my needs.
Please say if you think i could do some harm to the circuit with this mod.
I also put 2N5457 in the place of 3 of the transistors.
Someone please explain "Merlin fets" to me too
thanks
Rich
cool, i think i ended up using 47k-100k..
i have my tone at around 9-10 oclock..
'merlin fets' have to be used on this....= spitfire planes have merlin engines.. ;)
i still don't understand why you get squeel 'if' you sheilded the input from the 3pdt to the pcb you should be pretty quiet :)
I've built my first spitfire based on the original layout. It's been on my list for some time & I'd downloaded the layout ages ago, then didn't bother to read the full thread before starting...
It sounds pretty good straight off ( actually, it's pretty amazing-thanks Rob) but I intend to swap a couple of caps to 'tune' the channels. Before I do, I've one problem to sort first. Oscillation. Faint and tuneable using various switch combinations but it only occurs a second or so after I switch the distortion off. I can get rid of it by rotating the gain but the circuit is not in the signal path??
I'm switching both input and output of the circuit so I don't believe I'm loading the output on bypass. I've tried disconnecting the led, it happens with battery and ps but the effect goes when the board is unpowered.
Any ideas where I should look?
I hope it's not a problem with the skew gear......
Ahh. Seems I've sorted my own problem. Turns out that an electrolytic was causing the noise. Put my finger within an inch of it and it went quiet. Had a bit of a theremin thing going on. Quiet now but it's late so won't start swapping caps now.
ok, cool...glad you spotted the possible problem..
love the pics on the pics thread btw... 8)
i think your the first to build the 'spitfire v5' ..
'maik' etched his boxes for the v5 but i never saw the final result...
i have the spitfire v3 on breadboard at the mo, (amongst other projects) and am modding the tone to be a better 'modern' tighter , punchier one...... :icon_twisted:
so there may be a spitfire v6 soon.. ;)
Fraid not on the v5. Mine's a v1! but rest assured - I will be building the newer versions. It would be mad not to and spitfires always looked good in formation
Just built the spitfire v5 and it works great. Its the best JFET distortion I've built yet. Thanks deadastronaut for this great project. I have a few questions about adding more gain but need to get some sleep right now.
So does this make me the first one to build the v5? :icon_mrgreen: Anyways, I was messing with it today and put acouple overdrives in front of it and sounds really good. The mods come in handy as well. I'm also running it at 18V's. The 18V's seems to tighten it up some. Either way. 18V or 9V. It still sounds good. I left the cap values the same on the layout. I'll mess with them when I get more time. The fuzz is really cool too.
Mine is just 90% ready. Have to make it 100%. Build V3 and it sound great. Rob made a fine thing!
cool 2 x V5 builds...nice one guys..we must have demo's by law.. ;D
today i finally dragged my marshall into my lair....at long last. :icon_twisted:
and have the breadboarded V3 through it so i can mess with the tone again...ive been comparing marshalls (AVT275) distortion with the V3,
and the v3 is way better....the marshallls distortion is 'thick and flabby' and lacks definition, the sound is 'around' the note if you get me...and is the hissiest thing
on the planet...nasty...that always pissed me off.
..anyway ive been messing around and getting some nice 'variations' ' varitone' stuff going on. (much to the annoyance of Rert the cat.)
the V3 is sounding even better now....i'll go through few 'varitones' and settle on a handfull then sort a full stack out around them fav's hopefully...
(glad to see the forums back to normal)... 8)
Sounds interesting Rob.
When V5 is ready and my new software (Torpedo WOS) is here-then there will be a demo...
Shame on me that it took so long :icon_redface:
Interesting problem with my recently built mk1 spitfire.. Did not have the right switches when I put it together so the modern/classic has a neutral in the centre and the sustain boost/cut works as boost/cut/boost. Also, I really want to try different values for C15. I have the components ready but each time I plug the pedal in to check the current sound, I play a bit, then a bit more and after a couple of hours, the components are still sitting on the side and I've run out of time..... Wish every pedal I've made was this addictive
Does anybody or can anyone, please convert the original and or v3 to a vero layout???
or am i going to have to get not connected vero boards and wire every little link?
but i really love the sound of this thing.
thx :)
@dys: no vero version as far as i know..
which country are you in?...
if your in the UK i have a pcb up for grabs (5.00 to UK) (£6.00 GBP. to USA )
if your in the USA i think 'Ronan' may have some pcb's too..
In Australia :( would take forever to arrive.
i'll put my brain to work and see how i go.
ok..
@dys
aks him for a vero, perhaps he does it for you (normaly he does).
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.be
I always make my own veros. You become intimate with the schematic more than working with a premade PCB, and you are less prone to have errors compared to following someone else's vero.
It is a very good mental exercise! You just have to make sure you plan ahead a little and mark where your cuts will be right when you think of it, before your forget.
Quote from: Dysfunction on June 27, 2013, 05:11:24 AM
In Australia :( would take forever to arrive.
Got my board from Ronan. Didn't take very long to get to the UK from Oz. Less than a week.
hmmm tempting to buy , but i may just have a crack at print n peel.
thought probably cheeper if i paid either of the guys selling them.
Live and learn i say ..
Quote from: Perrow on April 26, 2012, 07:24:01 AM
And the still unverified 1590A Layout.
(http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Perrow_MLP/Builds/Layouts%20and%20transfers/Spitfire1590A-2.png)
Would it be possible to upload the DIYLC file to dropbox or the like? I'm thinking of trying your layout, had a good check over it and it seems ok, however I'm having a few issues with scaling it correctly.
It's 300 dpi, won't see my computer for about a week.
^ ahhh another fan of the pelle's 'curly' stuff... 8)
in case you cant wait....
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3PCB.pdf.html
Quote from: Perrow on July 13, 2013, 06:23:15 PM
It's 300 dpi, won't see my computer for about a week.
Unfortunately, when I scale it to 300 dpi it gets wayyyyy to big.
Strange, for me they scaly perfectly at 300 dpi.
just etched my first PCB ever to build the V3. so cant wait to get home from work and start building ;D
just waiting for my J201's .... >:(
only have 2N5457 , 2N5484/5's , MPF102/106's doubt any would sound as good thou???
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 13, 2013, 06:41:57 PM
^ ahhh another fan of the pelle's 'curly' stuff... 8)
in case you cant wait....
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3PCB.pdf.html
link isn't working for me. takes me to the gallery but i don't see anything and it won't let me login at the gallery.
Hit the download link.... Took me a while to find it as well
or use these links as i did
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3PCB.pdf
:)
found it, thanks!
Rob :
almost finished the V3 layout , but looking at the PDF , i cant find where the 9v + input is going into the board.
could you tell me where it links in?
and if so is there any possible way i could use LEDs to show which mode it is on?
Cheers,
Dys
+9V will be the square pad 2nd from the right at the top, or the top left pad. By mode do you mean bypassed, or modern/classic? If you mean bypassed, wire it as shown here:
(http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/StompboxWiring.gif)
You have extra pads on the PCB for ground (2nd from bottom on the right) and +9V, which are probably intended for an LED indicator.
If you mean Modern/Classic, you'll need a DPDT switch instead of the SPDT in the layout. Then you just wire the extra pole like the three leftmost pads in the 3PDT in the diagram above.
Thanks for asking that question, by the way, it gave me a cool idea! :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: psychedelicfish on July 18, 2013, 02:00:20 AM
Thanks for asking that question, by the way, it gave me a cool idea! :icon_biggrin:
thanks psychedelicfish ,
thanks for the diagram , and yeah was asking about having 2 LEDs for the modern/classic function.
just an LED top and bottom of the switch , so you can visually see what mode you are in.
Cheers,
Dys
my idea was to combine both, using a bi-colour LED, which is switched on and off by the bypass switch, and has its colour changed by the modern/classic switch :icon_biggrin:
^ indeed or...
To switch modes and leds at the same time as modes use a dpdt
/....led+.....led to ground
/......4.7k.....9v
/....led+....led to ground
use other half of switch for modes...
or
/...led ground.......+...../.
/
/
/......ground. /.........4.7k......9v.
/
/
/...led ground......+....../
8)
tip: socket those mode caps to taste. ;)
WTF?...what a c... :icon_evil:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=364780470280925&set=a.105688826190092.10501.100002469256623&type=1&theater
cheers jim/tiro...for bringing this to my attention, on ALL my layouts i specify ''do not post to other sites'' '' not for commercial use''
but what can you do eh?...nothing, once its out there your pretty much f......d eh.....hmmmmm...shame some people act like assholes, and don't respect others work...
i wonder why he added ''spitfire' on the description though..weird.
makes me re-think about posting other stuff now though, which is a shame as this is what a DIY forum is all about imo.......hmmmm....
reported to FB for intellectual rights and copyright breach. 8)
for a laugh...plus a little bit of satisfaction. ;)
but really, if its 'out there'' in web world its out there...thats the way it is really.... ::)
anyway, i wont be put off from posting stuff up still...that's just my ethos....so screw him. :icon_twisted:
did he find C2? http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94608.msg878002#msg878002
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=4900
lol....the elusive C2 mystery... ;D
And while this all goes on....
(http://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/carlsbergAstronaut.jpg)
Quote from: stallik on October 13, 2013, 06:40:20 PM
And while this all goes on....
(http://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/carlsbergAstronaut.jpg)
yep... ;)
@jim: yep too.. ;)
thankyou battery acid......now lets put it to rest, and move on. thanks.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/46e1fa3ce5c108230c3e26c6ecac9449.jpg)
Hey Folks,
By request I removed most of the posts involving this copy cat situation. I tried to leave deadastronaut's own posts on the topic so everyone can know how he feels about it without other's thoughts getting in the way.
Let not get dragged down in drama, instead lets focus on building cool stuff. 8)
BTW it is considered bad form to switch languages in mid topic. Please keep to English for this thread.
Your Tone God,
Andrew
Cool. Cheers andrew. 8)
This reminds me... I finally finished my Spitfire a couple of weeks ago :icon_biggrin:. It's my first actual build, but I've been breadboarding stuff and looking at schematics for about a year now so I know plenty about the circuitry side of things.
I'm having a problem with the tone control, I'm getting no or very little signal on the treble cut end of the tone control (it's acting a bit like a volume control and I have almost no low end). Any suggestions about fixing this are welcome, but I think I'll just keep trying to figure it out myself.
Anyway, thanks to Rob for a great distortion!
hi edward, cool, glad you like it... 8)
did you use my layout? in my gallery..if so it should be fine.
check your wiring around the tone pot / and caps select switch...seems the most likely culprit.
btw, its a nice and easy circuit to breadboard and tinker with too..
I built a v3 today using Rob's PCB (thanks Rob).
It fired up first try, I love the sound of it. But I am having a few issues, and a few questions.
- It squeals like crazy with the Tone control (I used a b50k) if I turn it up past 1/4 turn, it's really, really bright too
- There is a lot of noise, enough that it is audible over the playing (more so than my Wampler Pinnacle, Dr Boogie, or Wampler Triple Wreck)
- When bypassed (not sending output to ground, just a straight bypass) it causes my Wampler Pinnacle further down the chain to whine, which I can tune with the *bypassed* Spitfire tone and gain knobs...
Question - Should the gain at zero kill the signal? I get nothing, then pretty mid gain, then full on metal within the first few degrees of pot rotation (probably due to my use of linear instead of log for that pot)
Build notes:
--- I didn't box it yet so I am sure some of that will clear up when it's in an enclosure.
--- I used a shielded wire grounded at one end for the input
--- I made no attempt to match the J201's (I could though, I have a hundred or so leftover from a big buy when they announced they were going out of production)
--- I ended up with 3.3n and 6.8 as C10 and C11 for the switch
--- I used a B1m for the gain, I plan to swap out for A1M
Thanks for such a cool sounding distortion, so far I am loving it tone wise (and if I can get rid of the extra noise, it's going to replace my Pinnacle, the gain is more natural and amp sounding).
cool glad you got it ok. 8)
you could drop the tone pot to 22k...makes the tone range better. also you could raise the values of c14 /c15..from 2.2n to 4.7n etc.. (maybe socket them to taste.)
any squeel will go once boxed and with the sheilded input. (mine is very quiet)
on my builds i take all grounds to the input jack, (tonepad wiring 5 layout) i found this to be the best imo.
Quote from: mthibeau on December 08, 2013, 02:52:19 PM
Question - Should the gain at zero kill the signal? I get nothing...
Is there a resistor to ground directly off the pot leg? If the pot is tied directly to ground on one of the legs then.... YES, your signal will mute when it is all the way down.
^ yep...
if you stick a 4.7k off lug 1 before the ground you'll get a nice overdrive at minimum gain...
and try a 100k-470k gain pot...
i just dug this out on breadboard and tried it out... :icon_cool:
Thanks for the suggestions, the 25k for tone was perfect, and I swapped in an A500k for the gain.
You were right, pretty much all squeal was gone once I boxed it.
Thanks again for such a great high gain pedal, loving it!
- MikeT
cool, glad you got it sorted. 8)
i should rearrange the layout file for that...
I played with it a while last night, still loving the sound.
I do have extra noise that I can hear over playing (like a buzz). I get a bit of hissy buzz whenever I turn up the guitar volume (when it's down, it's dead quiet) - I also noticed that when I have the guitar cable unplugged and the Spitfire on, it's really noisy (even if I ground the sheath on the plug).
It's a bit noisier than my Dr Boogie or Pinnacle builds (which I hand picked the J201's that trimmed/sounded best). Could bad/questionable J201's cause extra noise/buzz
Any tips, I'll go over the board tonight to see if I have any shorts, but my solder job looked pretty good (and it is working, just some buzz/noise).
- MikeT
hmmm sounds a little weird.
try using a sheilded output too...
I only have 3 of J201 and 2 of 2N5457 ,where should put it in order to get a high gain?
try the 5457 just before the tone Q5 and Q3..
i would socket them though, and try it ok.
tanks. :) :)..i'll try it.
Hey Rob, how about version 6? :icon_twisted: This is totally "unofficial" of course...
Large version --> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/Large%20SPITFIRE%20V6.jpg
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SPITFIRE%20V6.jpg)
Hi man, that looks interesting, especially the tone stack...have you tried/breaded it yet?
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 30, 2013, 07:45:35 PM
Hi man, that looks interesting, especially the tone stack...have you tried/breaded it yet?
No, not really.. It's a dud, nevermind.
A little bit of a bump, but I've only just hopped on the Spitfire bandwagon :) Breadboarded this last weekend, tried some different values through the week and built it up tonight. As everyone has said, it sounds awesome! Thanks Deadastronaut for the design!
My contribution back, here's a vero layout I drew up based on Version 3. Verified too, as this is what I built tonight and it works fine.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img593/12/1cgv.png)
All components are labelled as per the schematic here: http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.jpg (http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV3.jpg)
The only variation is the classic/modern caps C8 and C10. I've added an extra cap to that section and moved them all offboard on to the switch (SW2 coming off the board attaches opposite the Tone 3 wire on the switch). This gives three different options. The values I settled on are marked on the layout. Just a reminder, the three options are the middle cap by itself when the switch is in the centre/off position, and in each of the switched ON positions, you get the middle cap added to the value of one of the outer caps.
So in the layout above, you'd effectively have 2.2nf, 6.9nf and 12.2nf. I found that gave a good variety of sounds. And if you have the capacitors arranged flat against the side of the switch with the legs poking up over and through the lugs, then it doesn't any extra height, it's actually quite compact.
For pots, I settled on Drive - 250KA, Volume - 10KA and Tone - 50KB.
But as DA has encouraged, experiment and choose what you prefer!
And now I will get back to playing with this thing :icon_biggrin:
Edit: if it's of use, you can download the DIYLC file for the above layout here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3035771/spitfire%20vero4.diy (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3035771/spitfire%20vero4.diy)
cool, nice one ozsi.. 8)
OK! Loving my spitfire. I just built the vero version Ozsi posted above and it straight rips. So consider that layout super verified. Be careful when installing the caps, I had to bend legs for most of them but its legit as all hell with care taken.
Yea, this circuit curb stomps my bsiab2. I'll play around with the drive pot as there is too much gain, it gets a smidge muddy at the far end but I'm extremely happy and thankful to deadastronaut and ozsi. Bless you dudes.
Not sure if it will completely replace my plexidrive + naga viper combo pedal (f'n gonna hard to beat that) but once I get the spitfire boxed and shielded nicely (noisy with long leads) its gonna give my current setup a run for its money.
Peace and metal lovin' all up in this b+tch. Thank you DA and Ozsi for circuit and layout respectively.
Proof. And yes, I'm a messy SOB. I'll be boxing this evening. Match FETs and shield leads!
(https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1467395_615295775206879_2187542_n.jpg)
Progress..
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1974183_615352098534580_1590242878_o.jpg)
Awesome, thanks for the update, it was my first layout of a non-trivial design, so it's great to hear and see that it's working for someone other than me. Neat idea with the enclosure too, just red and black Sharpies right?
I'll try to get some pictures up of mine too, keep the spitfire love coming :)
Hello
I'm having some problems connecting key middleweight version 1590a someone could help please.
Sorry for the bad English.
Sorry, i dont understand ....
my mistake, is not key, is switch changes from modern to vintage mode
I put one image to try to express myself better.
thanks a lot for the help.[/img]https://imageshack.com/i/n8mxq7p[/img]
Quote from: escroito on April 09, 2014, 10:37:19 AM
(http://imageshack.com/a/img836/8932/mxq7.png)
is there a current version circuit somewhere handy?
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/SPITFIREV3.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1
thanks, DA (the other). so, looking at the layout posted above, the parts numbering doesn't seem to quite match.
no it doesn't perrow did that curly one a while back..
I thought that was for the V3 but I might be wrong? I think I matched the parts numbers for the version I used as reference and I think it was a version d'Astro never did build. I etched and populated an earlier version of that board that copied the posted layout which had a flaw (so my 1590A version did too) and I never got around to etch another.
I'd look at my layout in DIYLC but I haven't installed it since upgrading my computer and I just have to get to bed now. Maybe I can look it up tomorrow evening.
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 26, 2012, 02:57:59 AM
here ya go ...sorted...good catch man!.. ;)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5THRASHER.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/SPITFIREV5PCB.pdf
T'was V5 I modified. Some caps aren't numbered in d'Astros layout, but you can deduct which one's which from value and parts list.
That layout is not verified but neither is it disproved.
I built V3 today. This thing rips! Thanks for all your hard work DA. I built it on the vero layout in the tag board request forum. It can be found here: http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Spitfire-Metal-n-Blues-Pedal-from-DIY-stompboxes-request-td8893.html#a8991 (http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Spitfire-Metal-n-Blues-Pedal-from-DIY-stompboxes-request-td8893.html#a8991)
Yep, it rips. DA did a super job on this circuit, my buds are hounding me about the sweet toanz of this pedal. I just tell em to build one themselves out of respect for DA, I won't be selling mine or any multiples.
Waiting for robs 3 band eq version. The single tone control works nicely but I'm amped to see his reincarnation of this wicked beast. Puts my bsiab2 in the dog house for sure.
I can't wait to get a chance to play with this pedal some more. For V3 is there much difference from V1 other than removing the hi boost/cut switch and the blues/funk switch? I'll look at the schematics side by side when I get a chance. Would it be worth adding these switches to my build or was there a good reason they were removed? Ultimately I'll have to try it for myself just wondering about other opinions. Thanks.
cool glad your enjoying it... :icon_twisted:
i removed those option just for a simpler build...i settled on the one i liked and left it at that...
rob,
So I plugged my build into the breadboard since I don't have it boxed yet and I couldn't figure out why it was so quiet as it was quite loud when I tested it after first building. I cranked the gain and volume still not very loud though it sounded good. Upon checking connections i discovered that I had plugged the output of the circuit in to the adjacent strip to where I plugged in the output jack. I was surprised at how much signal came through without actually being connected :icon_twisted:
Hey Rob you still have this on the bread board? I am curious to how this will sound..?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/11111.jpg)
Hi jim , yep i still have the stackless one on breadboard, if i get time tomorrow ill try it man...
Here is "straight up version 3" done with Diptrace.. Not the most beautiful but gets the job done! :icon_twisted: Needs some silkscreen touch up..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_TOP.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_BOTTOM.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_OSH_T.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_OSH_B.jpg)
Sweeto...im still getting my head around eagle...i,m at the point of sorting out the gerbers etc....bit by bit...in between other stuff.... :icon_rolleyes:
Nice jok3rx! I am a huge fan of all robs work here. A real go getter he is. There are so many circuits that get excessive love... This spitfire is criminally overlooked in the metal world for sure. I fekin' love mine. It needs a fabbed PCB, with DA's blessing of course. Sweat and blood is obvious here. I'm just a lonely diy'er for sport, but this one has me hooked.
BUMPED BECAUSE IT NEEDS TO BE BUILT.
Hi guys,
I just completed a build using the layout the Ozsi posted.
With basic ancilliary wiring it worked beautifully but i have just boxed it up and am having problems.
When a battery is connected the pedal produces a squealing noise even when the effect is bypassed. (standard 3pdt,led,9vdc socket wiring)
I have triple checked everything and cant see anything that would be causing a problem. Please note that the 3 position switch and the gain pot cause variation of the sound. Also if the board is lifted from the enclosure and moved around the noise varies (sounds like a theremin almost).
Any suggestions or direction to obvious problems would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
Gary
I had the same thing. I fixed it by using shielding wire on the input and output. Make sure to connect the shielding to ground .
Luke, thank you for your reply, did you have the problem before you put the circuit into your enclosure or after?
Only asking as mine performed perfectly just as a bunch of components and wires on the floor, only started playing up when put in the enclosure?
I will try shielded wire though.
It worked good the first time before I boxed it then when I pulled it out to troubleshoott it squealed sometimes depending on wire positioning. I think I shielded the wires to the classic/modern switch too not sure if that was necessary but it works now.
Thanks Luke, ill give it a try
Unfortunately shielded wiring hasn't helped.
I might be missing something obvious but I can't understand how it can make noise when bypassed.
The noise is there constantly unless the gain pot is turned below half. The classic/modern switch has an effect on the noise as well.
I am using a stereo input jack for power switching and have found that if I remove it from the enclosure the noise stops. The noise starts again as soon as I touch the jack on the enclosure. When I move it away from the enclosure the noise stops by fading off over a second or two, makes me think a cap is draining.
If it's true-bypass, try switching the input to ground when bypassed.
Quote from: 347sixtyseven on May 03, 2014, 03:33:51 AM
Hi guys,
I just completed a build using the layout the Ozsi posted.
With basic ancilliary wiring it worked beautifully but i have just boxed it up and am having problems.
When a battery is connected the pedal produces a squealing noise even when the effect is bypassed. (standard 3pdt,led,9vdc socket wiring)
I have triple checked everything and cant see anything that would be causing a problem. Please note that the 3 position switch and the gain pot cause variation of the sound. Also if the board is lifted from the enclosure and moved around the noise varies (sounds like a theremin almost).
Any suggestions or direction to obvious problems would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
Gary
Is your circuit input grounded in bypass? What bypass scheme are you using?
I don't have it grounding input on bypass. I used the following wiring
(http://users.tpg.com.au/adsly6up/wiring/photo.JPG)
Top centre lug should have 9v from board > led > 4.7k ...to top centre lug...
and central/middle lug of 3pdt to ground....
shield the input from top left lug...
to input on pcb....should be fine.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Deadastronaut, I will try your changes
Modified wiring and still have the noise.
only if the gain pot is higher than about two thirds.
this is all while bypassed, there is no problem when active regardless of gain pot position.
However, with these wiring mods, the effect does not pass any sound when activated
I have shielded wire on input and output between the board and switch, as well as between the switch and jacks. all shields are connected to ground.
The effect was working when engaged before you made the changes on the 3pdt? It might help if you posted a pic of your wiring. I wire all of my 3pdt switches like this http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_gi_dcj.pdf (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_gi_dcj.pdf) I've always grounded the circuit input when bypassed in this manner. It's probably not necessary to change over to this wiring scheme though. You probably just have something shorting to ground, a solder bridge or cold joint. How does the 3pdt switch look? It's possible to mess up the contacts with too much heat.
Yes Luke, it was working,
I had however noticed a strange noise when I switched to my neck pickup. Hard to describe. Didn't notice it on my bridge pickup. (Both humbuckers) when I plugged in another guitar the odd noise was noticeable on all pickups (single coils)
I will try to get a pic tomorrow, the one I have doesn't show the wiring very well. I might try retwiring it anyway as the neat wiring I had is getting messed up with all the troubleshooting.
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/347sixtyseven/imagejpg1.jpg)
Here is a pic I took earlier after making the changes Deadastronaut suggested. As I mentioned its a bit hard to see what's going on in the pic. The grey wires are the shielded input and outputs. All of the grounding is being done via the ring of the jacks.
By now the soldering looks like crap but the joints are solid. Switch is in good condition, no excess heat.
do you have the shields connected to ground at both ends? you only want to ground at one end, you can fold the braid back over the outer and heatshrink at the other end.
try testing continuity between inner and outer conductors on your shielded, see if any shortings.
I have earthed both ends of the shield.
I will disconnect one end of each in the morning when I get another chance to play with it.
The shielded wire was added after the problem noise appeared and hasn't seemed to have made any difference that I can tell
Cheers
Gary
I've had something like this before... Ended up being a cap ::)
You should make an audio probe and use it to pin point where the noise originates from. Very useful tool!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
There are a lot of videos on youtube on how to make and use them...
Thanks J0K3RX, I will make one when I find my old damaged lead.
Gave myself some time away from this but just had a play, I now have it grounding the input and the noise is gone when bypassed.
Effect is working beautifully, like it was before boxing it up.
However, if the gain knob is turned past half or so and you unplug your guitar (at the guitar) there is a horrible squealing noise. It can be stopped by dropping the gain and made nastier by increasing it. The noise is not present with an instrument connected.
Just a few questions, Its been a hell of a long time since i built something so im rusty as hell
I had to substitute some parts and im just looking for some advice from you guys/gals
R3 560k i used a 680k
C11 6.7 nf i used a 10nf
Tone 47k lin i had to use a 100k lin
Im just wondering if they (in particularly the tone pot) are going to effect the pedal that much.
Also i'm getting squeeling when ever i stop playing. I haven't boxed it up yet
for the tone pot, i would go smaller 22k for example, rather than 100k...
sheild the input when boxing up and it'll be fine...
other issues you'll get away with. ;)
Thanks Rob your a gentleman
I'm looking for a bit of input. Would this be a decent pedal for a 2nd build? I'd rather not jump in over my head. Too much at least. :icon_wink:
Yep, you'll be fine, easy build man... 8)
Thanks, deadastronaut! For a simple build, it sure looks versatile! I can't wait to start plugging away at it. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: J0K3RX on April 12, 2014, 06:34:16 PM
Here is "straight up version 3" done with Diptrace.. Not the most beautiful but gets the job done! :icon_twisted: Needs some silkscreen touch up..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_TOP.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_BOTTOM.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_OSH_T.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SPITFIRE/SFV3_OSH_B.jpg)
awesome.
I just got all my parts in the mail. Hopefully I'll have time to start breadboarding it next week. :icon_wink:
update:
new 7 string version coming soon-ish... ;).... :icon_twisted:
(http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/5889/supermarinespitfireprmk.jpg)
Where do the extra strings fit?
a) d'Astro, I wanna see that image etched on your next build.
b) No 10 & 12. I don't thing they put pilot life support equipment in the wings of todays aircraft 8)
Another one for the backlog. <sigh>
It,ll definitely have no,2 and 46.... ;D
Just messing with tone controls for that low B...
so its chunky, but not flabby...
I knew someone would pick 46.
62 is a must.
So, Rob, not trying to tune it for Bass too (or even Baritone - not that I go there)?
What goes wrong with a low B? Any clips?
156 is important too ;D
I work in aviation and almost everything can be turned into some sort of innuendo...
79 seems essential too... ;D
theres nothing wrong with it per se (pretentious? moi? ;D) , i,m just trying to get it tighter sounding,
so the bass is in the note, not around it...if that makes sense :)
those #10's look like sparklet bulbs. and I can tell you now, you ain't gonna fit that donk in a 1590A. cut two cylinders off, use them.
actually, i just went back to the original, and its pretty much there really...hmmm..
just a few 'fine' tweaks i think... 8)
maybe put an 83 on it.. :)
Maybe 86 so you can get modulation
i tried 86 on it and got smooth jazz radio... :P
You need a 135 so you can always see your settings.
Be careful not to add 155, you don't wants Imps, especially not ninety slippery ones, I don't care if they're jettisonable.
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 12, 2015, 11:03:46 AM
theres nothing wrong with it per se (pretentious? moi? ;D) , i,m just trying to get it tighter sounding,
so the bass is in the note, not around it...if that makes sense :)
31.
added a 49...
well, a pre gain pot really, which acts as your guitars vol...but without turning your guitar down,
this will be on a footswitch for low gain bluesy just breaking overdrive stuff...and nice high gain...its pretty cool as this cleans up nice on guitars vol
so i thought i;d incorporate that....nifty. 8)
been testing it, sounds pukka!!!.. 8)
this thread looks like it's just taken off.
141!
Ive got a spare coat for ya.. :)
Quote from: duck_arse on May 13, 2015, 11:30:40 AM
this thread looks like it's just taken off.
141!
I didn't know this circuit had valves! Will 12ax7 work?
Yep, swap it for the merlin engine, and it should fire up...might need a 00000000000000.0000000000001uf cap.
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 11, 2015, 06:36:17 AM
update:
new 7 string version coming soon-ish... ;).... :icon_twisted:
Serious? - soon-ish = weeks/months/quarters/years/decades/century/millennia...? I know you're an astronaut and you're also dead, so.. you are no longer tethered to the external oxygen supply of time like the rest of us mortals so, "soon-ish" could mean a quick moon hop or a 50 year cryogenically induced trip to Uranus... :icon_lol: While I always have had a strange fascination with Uranus I don't think I could survive the journey not to mention the extreme climate change and noxious gases... :P Thoughts?
Quote from: J0K3RX on May 13, 2015, 08:19:19 PM
Serious? - soon-ish = weeks/months/quarters/years/decades/century/millennia...? I know you're an astronaut and you're also dead, so.. you are no longer tethered to the external oxygen supply of time like the rest of us mortals so, "soon-ish" could mean a quick moon hop or a 50 year cryogenically induced trip to Uranus... :icon_lol: While I always have had a strange fascination with Uranus I don't think I could survive the journey not to mention the extreme climate change and noxious gases... :P Thoughts?
"Soon-ish" for Rob is about 29 pages... ;) And I'd be wary of having any kind of fascination about Rob's an- . . . Ah, I see what you mean... :icon_redface:
;D
Ähm, and Rob-pcb´s please
Quote from: J0K3RX on May 13, 2015, 08:19:19 PM
While I always have had a strange fascination with Uranus I don't think I could survive the journey not to mention the extreme climate change and noxious gases... :P Thoughts?
29 pages. like a baby, we're just filling space.
a little tester/teaser of the new version :icon_twisted:
tone stack..BMT
all eq's set at 12.....
clean channel marshall avt275...
out of marshall using emulated out, into flat eq mixer..
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/doomfirev3.mp3
drums by neil pearts sister in law... 8)
still tweaking, but getting there... ;)
excuse the squeel at the end....still on breadboard.. :icon_rolleyes:
Nice demo, DA! This thing is awesome. Bookmarked!
cheers dan, ... its a nightmare breading hi gainers...trying to hold back the squeeeeeelllllll.. :icon_rolleyes:
but you get the idea, should be fun when boxed up......eventually... :)
Nice one Rob! Does it still clean up?
hi kev, yep its still cool and cleans....,
i'm rigging it up with a kind of pre gain,
you know when you play hi gainers, sometimes you need to roll off the volly to clean up..and be a little subtle instantly
well..... in a word your guitar volly will be settable via footswitch...(not a boost) just a hi/lo gain setup..
its always pisses me off (especially jamming/live) with the lucky dip of physically turning a knob on your guitar down to that 'sweet just overdrivey' spot (only to miss it entirely or embarrassingly turn your guitar off....etc etc..so this will be ideal, for instant reliable gain cleanup level each time.....and instant DEATH DOOM TOO.. :icon_twisted:
i'm still adjusting to a 7 string, string gauge changes etc etc..till i'm comfy with it..
takes a bit of getting used to, but a bonus is my 6 feels effortless now...cool either way.. :icon_cool:
Is this V3 with the BMT tonestack, or have you added some secret sauce?
Understand that scenario totally Rob. Tried adding a bypass resistor to the guitar pot so I could whack the vol knob down completely and get a preset level but ran into 2 issues. First, the preset level only worked well with a particular pedal setup and second, I couldn't turn the volume off between songs.
Your solution sounds really interesting...
cheers man, basic,simple, but handy... 8)
check me on this...correct?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/capswitch.jpg)
calculate series caps like you would for parallel resistors
10n in series with 47n will give 8.2n
10n in series with 100n will give 9.1n
Hmmm....need more coffee....cheers russ
Shit Rob, sounds really cool!
Yeah man...been distracted by little solar charging projects lately...as the sun rarely comes out lol...
but i should get back on it after the weekend....sounds pukka!.. 8)
update: i haven't forgotten...just been really busy...anyway..
this is how it sounds so far...still on breadboard. 8)
DA- Thats sounding real good! Looking forward to a schematic- I'll have to build at least 2- my kid will want one too.
yeah its pretty cool as it is, but still tinkering, ....not far off what i want though.. :icon_twisted:
sounds good DA ... looking forward to it :)
First time poster, long time lurker; Rob, any further developments here? Getting itchy to give this one a go, but wanting to hold out for the TMB stack and baritone/drop-tuning tweaks...
Cheers,
Hi man, its almost there, been twuddling with cab sims lately too...
got a bit sidetracked...hold fire... :icon_wink:
I gotta say man, I am quite impressed with this thing. I drew my own layout and rocked it before boxing it today and it is pretty cool. Gotta lot of noise on full distortion, but I imagine most will go away once boxed. It has quite a bit of range in tone and grind. Now I have to come up with an enclosure design. Thanks DA!
Cool, yeah itll squeel like a mutha till you box it it, and shield input...
but well worth it.....glad you tried it man... 8)
lots of gain on tap, i have mine at about 11 o clock......with tea n crumpets. 8)
I like how smooth the distortion is. Color me very interested!
Rob, ever settle on the TMB stack and baritone tweaks?
yeah, kind of...
been uber busy designing/building a preamp/amp for my son in law..(which is very cool)
but has been a right pain, changing his f.....g mind on what he wants it to do
and mostly what etch design he wants too.......arghhhhhhh... :icon_rolleyes:
still ill be on the ass end of it soon..thank f..
saying that, actually it has inspired me to think of a dual active eq/ clean/dirt spitty
as clean channel often gets ignored...and the eq is rather nice..
as soon as ive finished i'm back on it man...haven't forgotten,been on the backburner always :icon_twisted:
Rob I have been thinking of building something similar to what you are doing for the kid. Seems like you have solved or worked through many of the same ideas that i wanted to build in to my little amp project. Would you be willing to share your schematic ?
honestly
waiting for 3band equalizer version
so have 6 knob. hahaha
build the spitfire v3, the tone so bright :(
so down the pot to 25K
nice circuit DeadAstro!
wait for it.....wait for it... ;);D
sorry guys, been busy lately, my bro had a long awaited heart op, so been down to cornwall
for a while...
just finishing up a rack, then i'm back on it...promise ok. 8)
Hope the heart op went well and your brother is doing alright. Family is far more important than any of this. We can wait.
cheers man, yeah its been a worry..but he's ok now. i only have 2 bro's and thats it for my family side
so i was praying big time that he'd be ok.
i have the new version on bread anyway ok...so it wont be long guys.. 8)
^^ wot Michael said = +1
Wow this looks like an awsome pedal and Rob thats some awsome guitar playing! Just finished my first DIY A/B pedal and accidentally stumbled across the spitefire while looking for info on building a 10 channel pedal looper. Can't wait to get start just have to get all the parts. This will be my second pedal and my first time building with circuits. Fingers crossed.
Ok. Getting my parts list ready to order and I have some Cap questions. I want to build the original ver.3 with same parts if possible without substituting. Hopefully getting it right the first time. I'm trying to use the gut shot as a reference but it's not clear enough to tell exactly what some of the caps are.
My first question is on the can style c1, c7, c 16 are those polarized or non electrolytics?
Second is about the others. Correct me if I'm wrong but is c4, c7, and c 10 ceramic disk? And are c3, c5, c8, c11, c13 dipped ceramic or tantalum? And c14, c5 polyester film?
And third what is c12? A box style cap? The picture is slightly blurry but it looks like a Smurf put a Post It note on there. I'm kind of a noob at this and would like to do it right the first time and not "pop a cap!" Or fry the whole thing.
Any help will be very appreciated. Thnx
hi,
C/ 1/6/16 are electros..polarized.
the only ceramic is the 470pf C5
the 1uf C12..is a non polar cap.
swap the tone pot for 25/22k instead of 47/50k...better range ok.
rob.
Thanks for the info on the caps Rob. And sorry for the stupid question. I just learned how to properly read a schematic today that clearly told me that. I me extremely busy now with Soccer season and starting a side buisness that my research time is very limited. So I will in advance apologize for my future stupid questions and will try and ask as a last resort not to waste anyone's time.
Hopefully this isn't a stupid one but here goes. I'm looking at Fairchild j201's on mammoth and saw small bear has National Semi and Vishay for a fraction of cost. I found a post that said Vishay sounded like muffled crap.
The price doesn't really matter but if one is equal to the other I'd rather save and buy extras for later. So question is what brand is best for this project so It spits fire and not water?
no questions are dumb...no worries,
as for vishay, no idea, but i'm sure steve at smallbear wouldn't ever sell naff stuff..
i would give them a go...
(unless others have bad experience with them?)
Everything I've bought from Small Bear has been top quality- Steve gives an accurate description of the items he sells.
don't let RG see this :
Quote from: BoogiemanX on November 11, 2015, 03:15:57 PM
I'm looking at Fairchild j201's on mammoth and saw small bear has National Semi and Vishay for a fraction of cost. I found a post that said Vishay sounded like muffled crap.
whoever said that (after double-blind tests?) is talking muffled crap, imo. Nat Semi is as good as you'll get. Vishay is as good. motorola is their equal. half these companies are no longer, having been bought and sold by the next company. and then they all stopped w/ the thu-hole j201, so the best parts are now the ones you have on hand.
Sorry, I was extremely tired when I wrote the last post. The word "crap" was not mentioned in the column I read. Not sure why I added it, but reading back it did change the whole context of what I wrote. Bashing the quality of a product or seller was not my intention. I will now bow my head in shame. :icon_redface:
;)
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=57022.10;wap2
3rd to last post is what I where I found it. Wondering if it muffled sound because of the configuration they were using it for. Or maybe it was just a bad transistor.
Anyone ever noticed any sound difference between brands?
DA - I'm still watching and waiting....
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/th_smiley_emoticons_ozboss_gitarre3.gif)
sorry...been busy...i still have it on breadboards though ok...a little more tinkering etc...
Quote from: psychedelicfish on July 18, 2013, 01:58:33 AM
+9V will be the square pad 2nd from the right at the top, or the top left pad. By mode do you mean bypassed, or modern/classic? If you mean bypassed, wire it as shown here:
(http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/StompboxWiring.gif)
You have extra pads on the PCB for ground (2nd from bottom on the right) and +9V, which are probably intended for an LED indicator.
If you mean Modern/Classic, you'll need a DPDT switch instead of the SPDT in the layout. Then you just wire the extra pole like the three leftmost pads in the 3PDT in the diagram above.
image not showing up for me. just want to make sure I got this right.
On layout the +9v goes on the top right square in between D1 and C16. Is this correct?
And what are the top left corner and bottom right for? are they just to have an extra + and ground for modding or testing?
yep. thats it... i always add a couple of extra ground holes just for wiring planning options...
Made my Pcb last night. What a pain in the butt that was. Got all my supplies free from work (photo paper, laser printing, acetone, and ferric chloride hydroxide rocks) so that was good thing. Etching sucked. Photo paper must have been s#!+ because it had some kind of film on the back that kept sticking to iron. Ironed it for almost 7 minutes to be sure. Had to soak it in hot soapy water for over an hour and paper was so thick it never dissolved. Didn't transfer like expected. Fine tip sharpies are my new best friend. Lol used 2 table spoons of Ferric in almost boiling hot water for over an hour. Etched side finally dissolved but back did not. Had to sand it off. I flipped the pcb and stirred it periodically like all guides said.
All guides made it look so easy. Anyone have any tips they learned to make this process easier? I know next time I will get my own photo paper. Lol
Now off to Harbor Freight for those tiny drill bits.
Quote from: BoogiemanX on November 23, 2015, 09:11:34 AM
Made my Pcb last night. What a pain in the butt that was. Got all my supplies free from work (photo paper, laser printing, acetone, and ferric chloride hydroxide rocks) so that was good thing. Etching sucked. Photo paper must have been s#!+ because it had some kind of film on the back that kept sticking to iron. Ironed it for almost 7 minutes to be sure. Had to soak it in hot soapy water for over an hour and paper was so thick it never dissolved. Didn't transfer like expected. Fine tip sharpies are my new best friend. Lol used 2 table spoons of Ferric in almost boiling hot water for over an hour. Etched side finally dissolved but back did not. Had to sand it off. I flipped the pcb and stirred it periodically like all guides said.
All guides made it look so easy. Anyone have any tips they learned to make this process easier? I know next time I will get my own photo paper. Lol
I tried several types of paper for toner transfer and settled on Pulsar Toner Transfer Paper. I get the 10 sheet pack from Mouser. It's foolproof to use with an iron.
First, I cut the copper-clad to size and then clean it with a scour pad and some steel wool. Then clean with some iso alcohol.
I usually preheat the copper-clad ( 1-sided copper-clad saves money and there's much less copper to etch ) and then place the transfer on the copper. Next, put the heated iron on top and let it sit for about a minute. Then apply pressure for about 2-3 minutes.
Pop the board/transfer in some room temp water and after a minute or two, the paper will come right off. I usually agitate the pan until the paper literally comes off.
I used to use ferric chloride until I came across the HCL/H202 method. It's very cost effective and etches a board in under 5 minutes. I bought the acid from the hardware store ( Muriatic Acid in the pool chemical section ) and hydrogen peroxide is readily available from any drug store or super grocery store.
I've been using 1 part acid to 3 parts H202 and have had very good results. A little agitation works well.
I've made at least 20 boards with this method with excellent results.
Quote from: BoogiemanX on November 23, 2015, 09:14:27 AM
Now off to Harbor Freight for those tiny drill bits.
A very good investment is a drill press. I use the Dremel drill press which I also got from the hardware store ( Menard's )
A drill press will make your life a lot easier if you plan on making more than a few PCB's. (Drilling PCBs by hand is a pain)
HP Premium Presentation 120g Laser Paper, Glossy 8.5x11... Works great and many here will attest to it.
Some toner brands don't re-transfer well.. I us genuine HP toner, have tried the cheap refilled toner but no luck with them. Would be nice if the cheap refilled ones would work because toner ain't cheap! I have a HP laserjet 1122n that is dedicated for toner transfer/etch so, my toner lasts a long long time. I have a cheap $29.00 laminator that I bought at walmart, modded the temp sensor to get a bit hotter. I tape the paper to the board using cheap masking tape and run it through a couple times. Then just to be safe I set a clothes iron on it for a minute and then let them cool for a couple minutes. Stick the board in some mildly warm to hot'ish water and the paper comes right off after about 1 minute.
I use about 50/50 ferric chloride powder and water mix, I don't measure it, eyeball it. I make about enough to fill a shot glass, heat it up a little bit in the microwave then dump it into a heavy duty ziplock bag with the board and agitate by hand. After it has been in there for about 30 seconds I put on some cheap rubber gloves that I get in bulk pack from harbor freight and start lightly scrubbing with a soft dish sponge. This takes about another 30 seconds and presto... completely done in about 1 minute total.
Jokerx, apparently you saw the same video on youtube that i did. i used a 1.1k resistor on that Scotch brand laminator myself. Works a treat.
Noooo!!!! Finished soldering pcb and realized I don't have the a 470 nf for C8. I looked everywhere and and the only thing I have is a .47 MFD Tantalum 35w. Can I use this instead of the non polar box type I thought I had? :icon_question:
Aw never mind. I was looking at layout list. I'll go by schematic c8 4.7nf I have (.0047uf) box. Thank god I added sockets for C8, C10, and C11
Finished boxing pedal last night. :icon_cry:
most horrible thing I have ever heard. Squealing like crazy, Gain has horrid, and strings made an awful sound when struck with a pic.
Today I had a look over and I shielded the input and outputs grounding only to jacks but I did not for pcb input. I replaced input wire with shielded one. made no difference. I did finally find the culprit. I mounted the spdt switch on the right side of enclosure where it sat right behind the gain pot.
I pulled it outside the box away from all other components and all the squealing interference disappeared. Im still not getting the earth shattering distortion that this pedal has become so popular for. I plugged my old boss DS-1 to compare and it destroyed the spitfire.
??? WTF is going on here? Ill do some more tinkering and report back.
then there
is an issue....
you only need to shield the input.
i shield from 3pdt to pcb only and its fine...
Ok now im getting somewhere. :icon_idea: thinking maybe these Merlins are not getting enough fuel.
The led i used was a 5mm 1.9v 20ma calculated 390 ohm resistance.
I used a 470 ohm resistor which is possibly taking away from PCB voltage?
Does the PCB need the full 9v to drive these Merlins?
your led wont make any difference...
you should be getting 9v to the top 2 fets drains...
squealing came back with a vengeance. I noticed it is worse on modern mode. when i touch the soldered joint on back of pcb with my finger it stops.
the spot is in between c4 and c5 where the first gain wire is connected. Any thoughts? I'm thinking maybe my amateur soldering technique may be to blame.
squeal seams to almost disappear when tone is turned down past halfway mark. turn the tone up and it gets louder the brighter the tone gets.
hi benji, as soon as you mentioned making a pcb with a sharpie a red flag came up..hmmmm...
inventive sure , but a moody solution for a fully functioning long term use pedal imo...
do you have any vero/strip board?...
if you have, and IF I get time i'll knock up a vero of the V3 for you ok.
I actually used the toner transfer method for the pcb.
I had alot of trouble getting photo paper removed. Not sure what brand it was, but after an hour of soaking I still did not want to come off. What I did with the sharpie was put 3 or 4 coats over toner just to be safe and to fatten the lines up for some added insurance. I will upload a pic when I get home. Can't seem to do it from phone.
ok...
Ok just want to post an image. what is easiest way to do this? Dropbox wants credit card info for 30 day trial. that's not happening so how do you guys get pics to show up on post?
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151122_180011_zpsg15uduyi.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/20151122_180011_zpsg15uduyi.jpg.html)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/cropped_zpset9z7nmi.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/cropped_zpset9z7nmi.jpg.html)
butt ugly for my first PCB but it got the job done. lol
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151130_184326_zpsroej5uoj.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/20151130_184326_zpsroej5uoj.jpg.html)
no etching sense i'm using a Hammond. Retro future look. there is an empty hole because i was going to have a second led and have them switch between modern and classic.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151130_184715_zpsxbaujtke.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/20151130_184715_zpsxbaujtke.jpg.html)
I think I might win first place for most wires exposed. looks like a birds nest.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151129_154622_zpsanre1rz1.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/20151129_154622_zpsanre1rz1.jpg.html)
I made this little adapter for a little more mobility while building the pedal.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151130_202504_zpsckqan6ah.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/20151130_202504_zpsckqan6ah.jpg.html)
works like a charm. ;D
I think all the squealing was coming from my Zoom amp which might have a ground problem. I ran it through my Marshall 1/2 and it was relatively quiet. Only thing now is choosing which caps to use for tone.
when I turn the tone up past 1/2 way it gets so high that I might go deaf. When switching to Classic it seams to increase the volume slightly and give a tight lead solo'ish vibe which gives me an idea.
This could possibly be an all in 1 pedal. I'm thinking of building a second one in a bigger enclosure with a second 3dpt switch that will be to switch between rhythm and lead rather than modern and classic. :icon_wink: just a thought.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151130_212225_zpsek3jh5b5.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/20151130_212225_zpsek3jh5b5.jpg.html)
Just one last thing to do. Welcome this little guy into the family.
My celebration is making me start to see double so thanks again Rob for an awsome pedal
I would also like to give thanks to my unofficial sponser "Bud Light" for making this post the challenge that it is
and Im gonna sign off before I go into a drunken rant that is completely off topic. lol
8) BoogiemanX signing off.....................
Quote from: BoogiemanX on November 30, 2015, 08:36:46 PM
Ok just want to post an image. what is easiest way to do this? Dropbox wants credit card info for 30 day trial. that's not happening so how do you guys get pics to show up on post?
Photobucket, imgur.
Edit: DANG, you have already figured it out.
i have free dropbox....dunno whats up with that.. :-\
anyway, so you got it sorted now then?... 8)
Might want to shield your gain pot as well, if you have not already.. Nice job on the sharpie etch :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 26, 2015, 11:22:02 PM
Loved the riffs, I'm gonna use them for my stuff ;)
Are you lefty or is the video inverted?
i'm a lefty.... 8)
I love the distortion on the 6 string STP riff. Man that sounds good!
Is there an editable file for the v3 layout? Or can the PDF itself be loaded into Sprint? There are several different layouts by different users. Just wondering if they had to start layout from scratch, use the pdf , or did I miss a ".ext" file somewhere?
swapping C8, C10, and C11 around to try and get this thing to sound right.
using this configuration I can actually get some decent gain. otherwise my pedal sounds very tame. :'(
C8 - 6.8nf ( using a .0068uf )
C10 - 4.7nf (using a .0047uf)
C11 - 2.2nf (using a .0022uf) all 3 are 63v Vikiin box caps
all other configs had lower distortion levels and almost all give squealing feedback when the tone is turned up past half way.
Should any of these 3 caps be changing how much distortion the pedal is putting out?
Lesson learned: -I REALLY need a breadboard-
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/My%20Layout%20with%20Rob%20Disclaimer_zps5lcaflgt.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/My%20Layout%20with%20Rob%20Disclaimer_zps5lcaflgt.jpg.html)
Here is my Layout with cap values. Note C8 C10 and C11 have been moved around several times.
Anyone see any mistakes I might have made?
you hit the nail on the head with " i must buy a breadboard"...
you havent a connection to the top left fet source... :-\
your second from left bottom fets cap n resistor should be to ground...
the 022 at the top should be to first fet drain....
look at the original...
(when he says top left, he means bottom left.) it looks like you've strung your led between V+ and ground: no current limit resistor?
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/my%20v3%20layout_zpspdo2hns2.png) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/my%20v3%20layout_zpspdo2hns2.png.html)
Ok here is a fixed version I just forgot to add a couple things but here is my layout.
Is my wiring ok?
The DC jack is being used incorrectly. The lug taking power to the board is intended for the red wire from a battery snap. Power and the LED connection need to come from the same place. (If you're not using a battery, leave the other lug unconnected.)
Ok I see what I did.
Muahahahahah! :icon_twisted:
I got it!!!!! Had the cap value on C8 too low. Swapped it for a 0.1uf and wow all noise problems gone and this thing is a beast. Trying to get a sample recorded through Guitar Rig 5. Might have to just use phone video.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/th_20151206_182051_zpswtaezzsq.mp4) (http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/20151206_182051_zpswtaezzsq.mp4)
Quote from: bluebunny on December 06, 2015, 04:20:53 PM
The DC jack is being used incorrectly. The lug taking power to the board is intended for the red wire from a battery snap. Power and the LED connection need to come from the same place. (If you're not using a battery, leave the other lug unconnected.)
So dc to resistor and led, led to center lug on 3dpt, top middle lug of 3dpt to 9v in on PCB.
Quote from: BoogiemanX on December 07, 2015, 08:00:09 AM
So dc to resistor and led, led to center lug on 3dpt, top middle lug of 3dpt to 9v in on PCB.
Nope.
Two wires from the DC jack (same lug): one to the board, the other to the LED/resistor. Check out Tonepad's wiring diagrams for some clear pictures.
http://gaussmarkov.net/images/1590B_SETUP_BRD.bmp
I used this one and tonepads for reference. Figured it wouldn't matter sense both lugs on dc jack were positive and I wasn't going to use it anyway. Other than that everything else looks ok? Either way pedal is working flawlessly now that I swapped caps.
Just to clarify: the second, unused lug in the gaussmarkov picture (where you would connect the battery) is disconnected when the external DC jack is plugged in. Anyway, good that it's working for you now. The Spitfire is a cool pedal.
Facepalm!
Marc I completely forgot about that second lug disconnecting battery. Thanks man, I will have to correct this.That would explain the slight delay when I first plug pedal up. Sometimes I have to twist the male plug just a bit for power to come on. I thought it was just a loose connection on that battery adapter I made.
Where is best place to get Eddystone enclosures?
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/my%20v3%20layout%20cropped_zps3vmr6qmt.png) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/my%20v3%20layout%20cropped_zps3vmr6qmt.png.html)
Here is my new layout with dual LED.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Dual%20LED_zpsvlcflttu.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Dual%20LED_zpsvlcflttu.jpg.html)
cool, glad you got it sorted....hows the guts, spaghetti ;)
It's a birds nest. Hahaha
Stay tuned.........
Working on some Sick graphics for this bad boy.
Is there a place to download pre made 2D drill templates for Google sketchup? All I'm finding are 3d models.
Any further developments on the baritone tonestack tweaked circuit? Inquiring minds want to know...
;D
Quote from: doctord02 on December 11, 2015, 10:16:03 PM
Any further developments on the baritone tonestack tweaked circuit? Inquiring minds want to know...
;D
Lots of 'em :icon_twisted:
Aye, but has Rob posted any? Wanted to see how the TMB stack was implemented before I go off and munge up the v3 circuit into something horrid.
not yet....
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/Spitfire_zpshwipt8cj.png) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Spitfire_zpshwipt8cj.png.html)
Here is a rough preview of what I have been working on. Still got to do some editing, blending, and shading between letters but you get the idea. ;)
nice, looks great.. :icon_cool:
Hello DIYS community!
>>>>>>>>> introduction rant <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
First post here and I registered because of this thread. I stumbled on this circuit a couple of weeks ago and curiosity got the better of me so I breadboarded it and... whooooa! This is the best high gain guitar sound I ever had! ...ever! I've been playing for 30 years with various setups and DIY stuff so I got some reference. I have built several amps and stompboxes, tube and SS, but never been completely satisfied though very close. Now my quest for "the tone" is finally over and I am very thankful to you DA for sharing this with us. I tried some different component values here and there and must say you really nailed the sweet spot on this one. Some small changes could just ruin it completely and had it been me there's no way I would have the patience to take it where it is. Awesome work man!
>>>>>>> end of introduction rant <<<<<<<<<<<<
I'm feeding the clean channel of a R*land c*be-15 with it. Smooth and chimey over the whole range on the drive pot. Wish my Marshall-ish tube amp did that.
My plan is to gut the cube and replace the preamp with the spitfire. The amp has a 4-way switch controlling 5 fet switches for different sounds. I want to tinker with the circuit to see if I can find tweaks that takes it towards the cleanish pick attack breakup land and back to stock spitfire via these four settings. I have been tinkering a bit but have not had much time with it but I have played around with LTspice so I have some ideas to try out, hopefully very soon.
The clean channel is a fet buffer -> op-amp stage with a huge treble peak -> FMV tonestack.
The FMV stack works great with this setup for me anyway. I thougt it was worth sharing this as it has been some requests for extended tone control. I have a bit more treble rolloff at the end though. Probably to compensate for the treble peak.
If anyone have some hints how to lower the gain in the first stage I would appreciate it very much if you would like to share.
Internet doesn't seem to see the point in find ways to lower the gain of a mu amp.
I am going to try with negative feedback and padding here and there to see if I can come up with something.
Cheers and thanks again!
hi and welcome...
cool, glad it worked out for ya man..
you may want to tweak the first (input) fet R/C values to ground a little... maybe just the resistor
to alter it a bit...happy tweaking :icon_twisted:
Welcome Daniel to the forum. Yup, this is one amazing pedal but before you lower the gain, please try lowering guitar volume. Mine cleans up so well i can play albatross with it on. Have to add loads of reverb mind....
Daniel you beat me to the post! Lol I was going to pretty much say the exact same thing. I finally got some free time yesterday and got a chance to actually play a couple of songs plugged into my 2 half stacks and I was completely blown away. I have searched my whole life for this sound and wasted dollar after dollar buying all kinds of high tech digital rack mount processors from Digitech to ADA and countless other configurations, but always ended up disappointed. This pedal Crushes All! And Rob I can't thank you enough for sharing this pedal. It's my most prized possession. ............"my precious"...........
> how to lower the gain in the first stage
> Internet doesn't seem to see the point in find ways to lower the gain of a mu amp.
First Google hit: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/modmuamp/modmuamp.htm
"If anything much less than 1M is connected to Vout, voltage gain starts falling."
So... connect anything much less than 1Meg to the output. Maybe make it adjustable. Better look what else is affected, such as coupling-cap.
(http://oi64.tinypic.com/2s0hkt1.jpg)
It *may* be that with this mod the "Drive" pot becomes pointless, or at best a set-and-forget internal trim.
Agree that lower axe volume IS a first step. But I can see how the Mu-Amp may be too-too-much gain for many situations.... won't non-dirt until your level is below the weeds.
I have done some tinkering.
My setup doesn't even come close to albatross clean when rolling back the volume all the way so I started with FET swapping to see if I had a gainy combo but no.
After I was done finding all the tweaks I think i need before transplanting the circuit into its true operating environment it struck me... oh waaait a minute... My drive pot is linear taper...: :icon_redface: I put a 1k resistor under the drive pot so I could turn it all the way down and yes, it cleans up well. The range of this circuit is remarkable.
I hope I don't offend anyone by screwing with this piece of art :icon_lol: . It is not that I really need to cover all that range as there is a clean channel already but, you know... there's a switch sitting there demanding to be utilized.
Anyway, I did the input pad and tried 1Meg and 10Meg NFB resistor between the gate and drain. When I put the DC blocking cap and a treble compensation cap over the padding resistor I realized that I had built a trioderizer with a FET on its head. Wrong values though, but it sounded really nice.
These are some tweaks I have come up with but not decided on if I will use them or combination:
-1M/1M input pad. There is a fet buffer on the amps input and I put the pad between the buffer and spitfire input. With the "trioderized" setup it works great to lower the overdrive but without feedback, only the pad, I felt like it sucked the tone somehow with or without treble bypass cap. I think it should not do that, could be my imagination after sitting with it too long.
-Feedback resistor gate-drain on Q2
-C3 bypass cap, as in the original design
-Drive pot treble bleed cap value
-330k resistor on the drain/source of the second stage to load it down a bit. I'm not sure whats going on there, if it alters the bias for Q5 or loading down the second gain stage or a combination of both but it cleans up what I think is the buffer clipping.
-different value of R11 Q5 source resistor alters the clipping behaviuor. I thought it was best as it were but worth mentioning.
-Series resistor between C2 and drive pot.
-Series resistor between the junction C2,C4 and the drive pot to move its sweep into the lower range.
BoogiemanX, did you do a open A-chord with a silly grin on your face again and again and again too? -zzzinggg -zzzing -zzzzing :D
PRR, Thanks for the tips. I have read both geofex articles about mu amps and tried loading the first stage but I think it sucked out the tone. I tried some variations with series and bypass caps but did not find a combo that I liked, worth exploring more though. When you mention it I realized I forgot to experiment with the source resistor of Q2 as described at the end of the article. Thank you for reminding me. I must try it out next time.
I modded the amp so that the aux input is routed straight into the tonestack and a buffer after the volume control is definitely needed.
I believe this circuit can be taken anywhere but I think such exploration is better to be pursued in another thread and stick to spitfire discussions here, right?
Cheers!
Daniel I still have that grin stuck on my face.
I hope it isn't permanent, my cheeks hurt. Lol ;D
Completely off topic here I apologize but I am overwhelmed at the amount of topics on this site. You guys here on the spitefire thread are the real deal and if anyone knows it's one of you. ;) much respect! Does anyone have a link to a good simple delay? Like the rebote or lofi. I can't seem to find a good detailed thread about this just trouble shoots and mods. Any help would be greatly apriciated.
You don't really say what you're looking for, Benji: "good detailed" could mean many things. If you don't fancy any of the (many) existing threads, you could start your own? Or else just download, for example, the Rebote project documentation from Tonepad and build it: it works out of the box. But don't start talking delay in this Spitfire thread. You'll only give Rob ideas... :icon_twisted:
Rob already had those ideas. Check out the Abductor 2 :icon_eek:
A while back I've breadboarded the first spitfire schematic and WOW. The thing has some crazy power. At the time I didn't notice the other many versions... and another is in the works?
I was wondering which one would be good for a guy like me. I use to be a huge metal head but now I'm all about funk, blues and some power shredding. Seeing what direction the spitfire has been going I'm not sure which version would be best for me. Of course they're all magical ;D
So which one should I build? Any recommended mods?
V3 for a 6string
Hey thanks! That one seems to be the "generic" spitfire.
I'm curious to why I'm not seeing a use of a blend pot to replace the capacitor switch? I've haven't tried a capacitor blend-pot mod but I feel it would be ideal for such a project.
Thanks!
(Never mind I believe that's what the 47-100k potentiometer is there for)
hi kevin, yep v3 will do you....try a 22k pot instead ofv47k....
Is there a Vero layout of the V3?
Quote from: BoogiemanX on February 05, 2016, 08:01:30 PM
Is there a Vero layout of the V3?
Ozsi submitted one on page 26.
I've had it bookmarked for a while now, hoping to find the time to pit this together. Sounds like my kind of pedal!
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/Spit_fire_zpsglzht2hw.png) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Spit_fire_zpsglzht2hw.png.html)
Here is my graphics. Still have some editing to do but, this is the general idea.
Hey BoogiemanX,
Vol, Tone and Gain above the Potis. More picture...
Looks cool
I originally had the txt above pots. I will be replacing those with flame txt also when I get time and they will have to go back above pots. Should look badass. ;)
On a side note I am trying to find a resin to replace 2 holes under the eyes. Needs to bond to the aluminum and be flush. Hopefully instead of looking like 2 LED'S it will just give the eyes an eerie glow. 8) Have to find the right thread about that.
cool...sand your leds flat....or get flat top ones... 8)
edit, ahhhh i get what you mean now.....hmmmmm.....cool idea..
god knows how youd get away with resin etc to be solid though....
edit 2..
thin perspex plate...put image on plate....with/without eyes...
flat leds under it....hmmmmm.....
I am thinking maybe drill the holes about the same size as I would for pots. Then fill them in with something similar to fiberglass resin (without the cloth) or something similar then sanding it down flush creating a window. Might actually look better if I cut a Simi transparent red piece of plastic to fill in whole. Can shape it with a drimmel to fit tight and use an apoxy filler to glue and sand flush. Just want a red glow. Don't want it to look like a light bulb shining through.
And Rob thanks for mentioning flat leds. I hadn't thought about the next obstacle being limited space with using the regular size leds. I might have not cought that until it was a problem.
The flat leds are a must!
yeah i see what your trying to do....see if you can get 10mm flats.... :icon_cool:
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Paper%20print.jpg_zpswljvomdx.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Paper%20print.jpg_zpswljvomdx.jpg.html)
paper printout:
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Leds.jpg_zps62xghumo.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Leds.jpg_zps62xghumo.jpg.html)
Plus 2 10mm :
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/2016-02-29%2017.37.21_zpsfjrv7viu.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/2016-02-29%2017.37.21_zpsfjrv7viu.jpg.html)
= Hell Fire!!!!!
awesome... 8) 8) 8)
That looks really good. Very effective at least with paper
Couple of possible issues you may have, if the label is full size of the enclosure top, the footswitch Won't get that close to the edge and the knob labels could be obscured by the knobs now you've moved them to the top. Maybe that's a good thing when standing?
Much prefer the volume font
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/Spit_fire%20editing%20GAIN%20flames_zpsrpm9lgej.png) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Spit_fire%20editing%20GAIN%20flames_zpsrpm9lgej.png.html)
I'm actually not to happy with the 'Volume' text that I redid in flames. Something will have to be done about that. As far as editing goes, I'm having a blast! I'm using Gimp and I'm amazed at what this software can do. Here is the Gain txt I'm working on. Doin it right this time. Zooming in 400% and dot erasing edges for more details. Downside is once I scale it down it probably not gonna be noticeable.
http://vid1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/12798529_1687236748208758_1090433967_n_zps9t5ay0wm.mp4
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/th_12798529_1687236748208758_1090433967_n_zps9t5ay0wm.mp4) (http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/12798529_1687236748208758_1090433967_n_zps9t5ay0wm.mp4)
An old highschool buddy invited me over to test drive his original "Dean from Hell" through the Spitfire so he could see what it can do. The feedback at the end is because I was directly in front of the amp. Lol
If you notice I have a breadboard next to the pedal. I made a jumper off of C8 to tinker with some different values.
SQQQQqqqqqqqquuuuueeeeeeeelllller... :icon_twisted:
Ok..so. I have C8 jumped to a breadboard. When I ordered for the build I failed to get the 470 nf (AKA .47uf) and had to settle for a .1uf instead. Sense then I've ordered new parts to build another Spitfire and got the 'AK .47uf cap'. I have it and the .1uf side by side on board switching between the two to see what difference is. Unfortunately I am having trouble telling any difference. I can almost hear a tiny bit of added low end bass (like a BBE Sonic Maximizer adding low end without effecting tone) but my ears could be playing tricks on me. I did notice that with the higher value cap I can turn the tone to 10 without causing property damage and making my dog howl in pain.
So what's really happening here? Is the higher value cap just dampening the higher frequency or is it shifting the whole frequency range down cutting treble and adding low end?
Anyone investigated this and if so what were your findings? It would be awsome to see the frequency response on paper like a wave graph. I will be ordering a .68 uf when I can to see what happens when I take it a step further. And If it truly is adding low end would it be possible to have the best of both worlds by keeping the low end unaffected while bring back the treble with a bright cap somewhere?
Anyway just throwing my random thoughts and Ideas out there. But seriously if anyone has really dug into the C8 realm and explored it I would love to hear your findings. In the mean while I will do my own investigation and let you guys know what I think.
Until next time.......Stay tuned for the next episode of......."Mysteries of C8"
Found an extra 1uf to play with on C8 so I played around with them a bit. My stock .1uf has a very dirty Randall ish thing going compared to the other 2. Very smooth distortion but a bit more sensensitive to picking up other sounds from strings. The .47 originally intended really does seam to bring out low end tones while dampening some treble and give a more well balanced feel with tighter notes. Jumping all the way up to a 1uf didn't seam to add any more low end but instead rounded out the notes and they felt too tight. Almost as if it was starting to loose some of its grit.
Rob I'm starting to like an earlier idea that you had about using a rotary dial to switch caps. I'm thinking of using my first spit to test this. If I can some how squeeze in 3 rotary dials for c8, c10, and C11 to quickly switch between values while playing. This will be god awful ugly but, very effective.
6 dials on a 1590b eww.
Hey Benji, I hope you're going to post a demo of this when you're done. I built a MK1 with the 3 switches and before I got to swap the cap values, discovered that it was nigh on perfect for me as it was. As a result, I built a barbed wire fence round the thing and posted sentries ;)
holy bloody molly
this thread has bookmarked and im visited almost everytime i open my pale moon
i dont know why im lust in spitfire update
maybe its curse of deadastro after i see in my dream?
(http://www.stencilrevolution.com/photopost/2012/10/skull-spaceman-stencil.jpg)
Rob, dont laugh with very high gain to me :icon_evil:
Hey Rob I have a serious question for you. When you were making the spitefire did you ever go past 5 gain stages or did you stop at 5? Did you ever attempt a 6th?
hi, nope...5 was enough for me...
Don't get me wrong, the spitefire is a masterpiece. I would have worked 2 jobs and paid any price to have this pedal if it was the only way to get it. You are the Michael Angelo of pedals.
By nature I am a tinkerer and like to push things to the limits. I would love to see how much further the spitefire can go. At some point it will have to peak and then start degrading, but I'm just wondering where the Spitty is sitting at. Is it near it's peak and how much more headroom for gain is there? Anyway I would love to push the boundary here but, I'm still a noob at this. Can you point me in the right direction on this? Where would another gain stage be added and would that change the whole layout?
another gain stage would likely just turn to mush and squeel..rather than be defined..
i am merely a tinkerer myself really..if my ears like it i go with it..
i have a new version on the bb at the mo, but have been distracted by too much other stuff to finish it off..
so its still in the pipeline so to speak...
you might want to explore some of jok3rx's metal projects....very cool. very heavy too..
he knows his heavy stuff for sure.. :icon_twisted:
No need for another gain stage and you will probably get a lot of squealing oscillation if you try.. Just drop a tube screamer in front of it if you want that extra "kick in the nuts" high gain. I have tried this with the Spitfire and it takes to a tube screamer in front of it very nicely and surprisingly not a lot of noise, squealing or feedback. The pair would make a nice combo OD/Dist box... just throwin it out there :icon_wink:
believe it or not ive never built a ts...
probably the only dude on earth who hasn;t....
one day... ;)
TS in front then turn guitar volume right down. Add loads of reverb and enjoy lush cleansish sounds with sustain for days. Nice.
^ ok, i'm convinced, i'll build a ts... 8)
but which version?...bog standard?.
edit...dont you dare mention kirk hammett..lol..
Mine's actually a Vox 810 but I'm told that's really a TS. Tried it with a zendrive and that's good too.
cool, i'll look into those....
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 11, 2016, 12:32:19 PM
believe it or not ive never built a ts...
probably the only dude on earth who hasn;t....
one day... ;)
You really had me there for a sec :icon_lol: I thought for a moment you meant that you had never built a tube screamer... Bwahahahahhhhhahha... Damn good one! :icon_lol:
or a fuzz faeces ;D
Actually that's where I got the Idea from. I put a gain pedal in front of the spit. It gives it more kick but also makes the pickups extremely sensitive to picking up even the slightest touch. So I get more gain but at cost of added background scrapings. That's why I was figuring that maybe if this could be worked into the spit circuit at the front (tied into spits natural super quiet circuitry) then maybe it would get same results without the side effects. Just food for thought.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_102932_zpsoj3i8lso.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_102932_zpsoj3i8lso.jpg.html)
It looks like a simple gain tone pedal. It was given to me by my cousin after her husband passed. Until then I didn't know anything about diy pedals and I didn't get a chance to meet him. That being said I don't know what diy forums he was in or if it was a kit from a pedal parts site.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_102916_zps4ff0fvwc.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_102916_zps4ff0fvwc.jpg.html)
Here is a gut shot. Does anyone recognize this design? Would like to find a layout for this.
Thinking maybe using this circuit as a guideline. Make a similar circuit with out tone (leave that up to spitty) and tying it all together in one circuit. Just have an extra control as a pre gain. Might clean up in one circuit and all grounded in same box. Now I wish I had left that second one breadboarded! Already put it on pcb.
no idea what circuit that is....6 diodes hmmmm....
obviously a clipper of some sort....
anyway, try a breaboarded tube screamer in front as suggested
, i havent a spare breadboard at the mo, otherwise i would...
i was going to stick a pregain pot on the new version of the spitty, footswitchable....hmmmmm....
see how it goes...
A circuit with no resistors? Looks like its just got caps and diodes, unless all the grey "diodes" are actually resistors. Orange diodes seem to be wired cathode to cathode too which seems odd to me.
+1 looks strange eh...
TLC2272... hmm :icon_neutral: Only a gain and tone control? Well, it ain't a tube screamer, pretty sure of that. :icon_wink:
I'd bank on more parts on copper side, besides the pots. but intriguing [sp] as is.
i have a feeling benji will have to pull it out to settle this mystery.. :)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160314_171733_zps6pkbhgb2.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160314_171733_zps6pkbhgb2.jpg.html)
Well there are a couple tiny things on top.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160314_171745_zpsp3sk7pi1.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160314_171745_zpsp3sk7pi1.jpg.html)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160314_171727_zpstsjipm2e.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160314_171727_zpstsjipm2e.jpg.html)
Has Wat printed on PCB and front of case, Zum Versterke at input, and Klampf Do Nol! On output. Tried German to english but Google wouldn't play nice.
> a couple tiny things on top.
Resistors. "103" is I think 10K (10,000).
> Zum Versterke
Verstarker is Amplifier. "Zum" seems to be "To the".
PRR is right
Think I will skip trying to breadboard this in front of the spit.
I jammed for a while with it in front of the SF yesterday and
I could not get it to sound like I did that time before. Not to mention That even with the Gain all the way down I can still hear noise. Click it off and the room is dead silent. This is with the Spitfire running wide open with Gain to the max!
If I don't hit a string......there is no sound. This is with 2 half stacks cranked up almost half way. The Spit amazed me once again.!
aha....smd stuff....thats a mad build...
have you breaded up a tube screamer?...i will when i get a mo...
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 15, 2016, 05:43:30 AM
...a tube screamer?...
Don't drink the Kool-Aid... an SD-1 is better... :icon_mrgreen:
I've got to get back to finishing the graphics! Been putting it off to finish pedal board and looper. I've been reading up on waterslide and it sounds like a pain in the butt. Would it be possible to flip image , laser print on label sticker paper backing, and iron on enclosure like when etching a pcb? Then clear coat it. Has anyone ever tried this? I have to do something similar so that i can get the eye holes drilled out and in the shape of the skull sockets. Then acitone it off so i can fill in the holes with resin.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160315_205814_zpsa4ucnicp.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160315_205814_zpsa4ucnicp.jpg.html)
NAILED IT! ;D
?sdrawkcab ti delian uoy evah
tbh that looks cooler than 'proper' artwork.
It's a Picaso. Lol
Well, waterslide it is then. :icon_cry:
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160322_051806_zpszyxswkg2.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160322_051806_zpszyxswkg2.jpg.html)
Picasso had to get Acetoned.
New aproach:
1 - use regular ink jet sticker paper as a template
2 - exact knife holes out for light windows
3 - mark holes with sharpie (looks wicked so far)
4 - use drimmel with fine tip cutting bit to carve out holes
5 - pop the top off a 40 oz malt liquor
6 - get drunk as f@*$!
i'll do number 6 for ya... :P
Don't know if I missed something, but it's 39 pages of this amazing pedal from Rob's and I didn't see one single mention to this as an artwork:
http://tinyurl.com/hztjvlm
That is a grat idea. Wish you would have posted that before I got so far into my skull design. Green fighter plane metal with rivets, battle worn star decal, and some bullet holes!
That would be sweet. Couple marks on side for kills. Maybe powder burn marks on jacks to look like gun barrels. 8)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_220654_zps65uw6ohi.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_220654_zps65uw6ohi.jpg.html)
Had to redo the graphics a bit. Someone mentioned earlier about my switch orientation being to close to bottom edge and they were right. Had to go back and do alot of photo editing. If I had time I would go back and see who it was so I could give you the credit you deserve. Anyway I put clear box tape on inside of encloser and the filled in wholes with epoxy.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_170058_zpsxqshqnju.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_170058_zpsxqshqnju.jpg.html)
Ta da! Windows. Hard as glass. Looks a little goofy like a retarded jack o lantern but in the end it's only to let the light through. We won't see it. I hope.
Metal Necronomicon? Lol
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_215556_zpsyasprrjy.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_215556_zpsyasprrjy.jpg.html)
Still need 2 more LED'S for nose n mouth.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_215714_zpsp5ldpueg.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_215714_zpsp5ldpueg.jpg.html)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_215743_zps2br8igql.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_215743_zps2br8igql.jpg.html)
And that's all I have for now.
Have to call it a night.
This beer isn't gonna drink It self. :icon_twisted:
Quote
Still need 2 more LED'S for nose n mouth.
Not sure you do. Personally, I like the fact the eyes are brighter than the nose and mouth. Extra LEDs might be overkill.
Also, is the image you're showing the final print or a positioning proof? The blacks look a little weak. The effect will look much better with a higher quality print.
Quote from: Hatredman on April 04, 2016, 06:24:46 PM
Don't know if I missed something, but it's 39 pages of this amazing pedal from Rob's and I didn't see one single mention to this as an artwork:
http://tinyurl.com/hztjvlm
Ahem.
(http://www.bouron.org.uk/marc/spit155.JPG) :)
yeah im with kev on the leds....looks cool as it is man...
nice...
also - Ahem. it's only 10 pages back .....
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94608.msg1019539#msg1019539
[also: also, googoo in opera on linux is busted again, but this link - http://tinyurl.com/hztjvlm - shows 2 images of the same australian (RG-V) liveried example.]
I think you guys maybe right about over kill on the leds. What I had planned was to make the nose and mouth light up when switched from classic to modern. I might still do that but with just enough light to give them a little glow.
The print I am very disappointed in. It was decently dark on regular paper but it printed extremely light on Testers white waterslide paper. That print I will be using as a practice run sense it is my first time doing decals. Then I'll acitone it all off and put a good print on.
I really wanted to make the leds pulse fade when switched but that requires a 555 timer and a 1000 uf cap and there's not enough room in a 1590b. Well maybe if the board is in 2 pieces jumpered on sides of 3dpt but that's just too much. Or is it?
Going to try something when I finish boxing this one. I'm going to run a Spitfire at the end on my fx chain after everything and all but have one in front of each amp.
Just tested that with spit on one side and ds-1 on other. It added a nice layered fullness to the sound. Only problem is distortion will destroy any effect before it. I did put the ds-1 before the Spitty on low and it gave it a nice boost.
Quote from: BoogiemanX on April 05, 2016, 02:08:48 PM
What I had planned was to make the nose and mouth light up when switched from classic to modern.
If you have spare switch poles, switch LED colours. Or switch on an extra blue or green one in the box and have a bit of colour mixing going on.
Yeah i considered switching to blue. Like "fire n ice".
step aside from the 555 and slowly walk away......
tick tick tick tick tick....
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04-06%2007.03.05_zpsepsnrzmd.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04-06%2007.03.05_zpsepsnrzmd.jpg.html)
Water slide going to take some practice. Got alot of tiny wrinkles when it curled up in water.
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah5/BoogiemanXL/Mobile%20Uploads/20160405_222222_zpslr9ulpti.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/BoogiemanXL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160405_222222_zpslr9ulpti.jpg.html)
This is actually a flash light but switching between red and white might work.
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 06, 2016, 04:59:33 AM
step aside from the 555 and slowly walk away......
tick tick tick tick tick....
I wonder if that could be solved with a pulsing circuit?
Like this one:
http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/up-down-fading-led.html
IIRC boogie was talking about 'fading leds'
i would go with an opamp lfo , rather than a 555 time bomb ;D
anyway....
here is the V8.... :icon_twisted:..its been on my breadboard since last year
but been busy with other stuff...
its a hybrid of the spitfirev3 and using a somewhat modded
active stack of the triple wreck....plenty of adjustment.. 8)
get ya breadboards out...enjoy. :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/V8.png)
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 19, 2016, 09:29:58 AM
IIRC boogie was talking about 'fading leds'
i would go with an opamp lfo , rather than a 555 time bomb ;D
If the 555 had been called the 666 I bet you'd reverse your argument :icon_mrgreen:
You could build this on a breadboard and hook it up to the 9V on the pedal and see what happens, six components should be quick. I could too, but I've no work space right now (filled with stuff and electricity disconnected, the stuff will go away soon but the power situation will be tougher to fix).
Version 8? :icon_eek:
I'm still on version 1!
v8 just sounded better...vrooooom.... ;)
Guess I'll wait for the v12 - should sound like a real Merlin
Quote from: stallik on May 19, 2016, 03:57:35 PM
Version 8? :icon_eek:
...and we're only on page 40. ;)
is meyo back?... :icon_surprised:
When is One and Only Son v2 coming out?
Quote from: blackieNYC on May 20, 2016, 09:53:23 AM
When is One and Only Son v2 coming out?
why, is he gay?
Some folks will consider that quite an upgrade.
There are no atheists in foxholes, and at electronic workbenches. The kids hear my oaths and prayers every night.
Enough of my hijacking. V11 above, yall. Been waiting for this.
I'm just very happy to finally find a schematic in this thread... been searching through it for months! ;)
Oh my. I finally got around to boxing this thing up. (V3! If my neighbours weren't already awake, they are now.
This is one really nice distortion pedal. Thanks Rob! I'd been planning on giving this to a friend when it was finished. Wish I'd built two now!
(http://i.imgur.com/EepyjJP.jpg)
cool....looks great. 8)
So, Mr. Rob... when will one of your fabulous layouts arrive for this? :icon_biggrin:
im working on it.... ;)
Cool! Can't wait to see it!
Any sounds clips?
it should be roughly the same as this demo.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94608.msg1028233#msg1028233
will dig it out later and test again...
Is there a way to take off the original tone knob? i am interested on experiment a baxandall on it. Oh forget! I´ve seen you did a lot more on V12!
well i finally got around to it, ::)
ordered up the boards for the ''SAPPHIRE'' (which i just saw a pedal called sapphire drive) so that'll change :icon_rolleyes:....anyway..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WAVES%20FOR%20PELLE/sapphire.jpg)
cant wait to get this off my breadboards and built...awesome distortion
3 switches for different EQ / tones..
active EQ/BMT..
ive been playing it through the clean channel of my marshall AVT275
and its pretty damn good!!! modern/vintage/ and a nice open overdrive too...
very versatile... 8) 8) 8)
:icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
now to plan out my box etch while i wait... ;)
Looking good. I'm finally getting around to building my faze filter. Started doing some enclosure etches
and made a nice reverse etch for the "fazex".
got my 'black' pcb's in....they look gorgeous in black n silver..very cool.
awesome.....soldering iron out... 8)
Still adore this pedal. I've just had a fairly short lived Sonic Titan phase but I'm looking forward to getting to play around with the spirfire again since i left the bugger at rehearsal and havent had it around.
I'm also now looking back and forward between a box i just etched for a Dr Boogie, and your v8 schematic and thinking something subconcious must have been going on. Art work is by an Austrian dude called Peter Kramer, I just added the skull. Mad.
(https://s13.postimg.org/wnk2ut57n/IMAG0642.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wnk2ut57n/)
Besides that pesky "presence" control (actually, its barely legibly, should be easy enough to obscure) this box seems (unintentionally) almost tailor made for me to make that spare Spitfire I've been after!
As an aside, and I'm probably just being dim here, but people are talking your V12, I can only seem to find your v8. No big deal. The v3 was great. Was there one that suited low tunings better or did I imagine that?
Hi man, the v12 is coming soon....just a few final tweaks...
it will be a 6 pot, 1 toggle pedal.....
love the etch... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 03, 2016, 04:35:46 AM
it will be a 6 pot, 1 toggle pedal.....
.... 32 pages .... and a led.
And an etch
you bstds..i'm too embarrassed to even start a new thread nowadays... :icon_redface:
i'm being persecuted.... :icon_frown:
i'm telling aron, na nah na nah nah.......he'll give you a good telling off :icon_smile:
I really hope you don't surf (comets?). That would be seriously creepy. Would make me seriously creepy, at least. The 6th pot doesn't happen to be a presence control by any chance?
Looking forward to playing with it whenever you have it done anyway. I'm sensing some mild impatience regarding the dev. of this pedal so I'll shut up now and let you get on with it.
As an aside. "6 Pots, One Toggle" sounds like the name of one of those viral videos you're always going to wish you hadn't watched.
nope not a pres....
more of a 'voice hi/lo.....could be interpreted as that if you like.. ;D
Ah no worries. I'll tell people it says "prosence" and then mumble something about it being highly technical and hard to explain.
yep, that should work... ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 03, 2016, 10:19:58 AM
you bstds..i'm too embarrassed to even start a new thread nowadays... :icon_redface:
i'm being persecuted.... :icon_frown:
i'm telling aron, na nah na nah nah.......he'll give you a good telling off :icon_smile:
We love ya really, Rob. ;D
It's just that some of us old folks need a nap part-way through your (invariably very interesting) project threads. ;)
Haha i know......me too.. ;)
Quote from: bluebunny on November 04, 2016, 04:23:13 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 03, 2016, 10:19:58 AM
you bstds..i'm too embarrassed to even start a new thread nowadays... :icon_redface:
i'm being persecuted.... :icon_frown:
i'm telling aron, na nah na nah nah.......he'll give you a good telling off :icon_smile:
We love ya really, Rob. ;D
It's just that some of us old folks need a nap part-way through your (invariably very interesting) project threads. ;)
I forgot my reading glasses at home but if feels like I would agree with you if I could read the text.
hi guys, happy new year,
ive decided to buy a small Kustom KGA10FX amp, so i can test using my marshall
and a small amp, i just got one for 20 quid..bargain 8). should arrive by friday hopefully,
ive still got my project on breadboard, (after a year or so ::))and have designed a pcb for it, i just want to test
a little more in both amps for 'ear' reference purposes...
should be good,
5 pots, 2 switches,
gain, bass, mid, treb, vol / modern/classic , and added ass/sym clipping switch
i added the clipping to the fet drive as it has a nice compression, which is very cool
for recording etc, and adds a little bite too....its rather nice. :icon_twisted:
back soon.
Can I exhale now?
no.... ;D
*BUMP*
My v3 keeps getting left at practice and this is still by a Heavy-Metal mile my favourite distortion pedal. So In lieu of hanging around aimlessly waiting on v13 or whatever number we're up to now, I'm throwing together another one of these to keep around the house. Board is almost populated, I'm just short on c8 (assuming I've got the numbering right, its the 470nF cap) , and I'm wondering about options for a replacment. If I look hard enough I think I might have a polarised one of that value, but it could take me hours to locate and theres every chance I've imagined having seen one in my misc parts bin in the first place. Neither do I like the idea of using 5x 100nF in parallel. I guess I could get away with using two 1uf caps in series, but it'll look a bit messy......
How far in either direction from 470nF am I likely to be able to go before seriously affecting the sound of this? Apologies for the absolutely arse of a question. I could socket it, but that would rob me of both the chance to procrastinate and the opportunity to nag Rob about the newest iteration.
Ignore all that. I managed to fit two 1uF's in parallel quite neatly onto the board.
The links for the v3 are down also, btw. I'm taking this as a hopeful sign that we could be in for a treat soon?
hi iain,
yep dropbox decided to f... me over on my 'public' folder...its a royal pain in the ass..and bites me every other day.. :icon_rolleyes:
go for a socket as you mentioned, and try a 1uf....
v13,000,000,001 is still on breadboard..
been trying lots of different EQ's...just not settled on any as yet... 8)
All sorted now man, cheers!
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 28, 2017, 06:00:40 PM
been trying lots of different EQ's...just not settled on any as yet... 8)
Glad you're not rushing it. Hope I'm not sounding too impatient! Hey as an aside, have you seen/heard the (Jeff Water's endorsed) Devil Drive? I was flicking through Annihilator video's on youtube and stumbled upon it, reminded me a bit of your v3 (not that implying anything untoward). Probably nothing more than the pot+switch layout and the British sound, I dunno. I've always found your Spitfire suited those trademark Water's licks to a T. Thoroughly Metal but with a Bluesy kinda snap to the crunch.
Edit: f*cksticks! It would appear I'm all out of J201's. Could've sworn I had a stash of them. Expect this one to be lost in the "nearly finished" drawer.
Would it be possible to post a schematic? Dropbox and other image servers f%&/(% us over recently :( I'm in the middle of tinkering with the brown sound, I would love to have a look at it from an Astronaut's view :)
Hi andreas, there is a schematic in my gallery...look for robert henry.
8)
Ha! Found it! Thank you, Sir!
Long been a fan of the Spitfire. Built a little valve amp that I wanted to work well with the spitty. It does, but it's much better with a Celestion vintage 30. Checked my other amps and the same holds true. My other speakers give an unattractive high end fizz which is clearly rolled off by the vintage 30
Must be down to my personal preferences( ears) but thought I'd mention it
Cool...will there be a pic of the amp?..
Yes, when it's completely. Now decided on the speaker, got to build the cab....
hi guys, memeber VIVEK asked me if i could repost the spitfire...
here you go, plus bells n whistles added version. ;)... 8) 8) 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RWpw6ccG/spitfirebellsnwhistles.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWpw6ccG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nssBvC2x/spitfirev3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nssBvC2x)
Wow! Ten years old! :icon_cool: I was running around in shorts, it was that long ago!
.
.
.
What am I saying? I've been in shorts since last March... :icon_rolleyes: