Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
Building your own stompbox / Re: Building a stereo headphone box
« Last post by thermionix on Today at 06:43:34 AM »
The wiring is easy.  The headphone jack just takes a mono signal and copies it to each side of a stereo out.  You could either just patch both sides back together into a mono signal, or you could pass one side and ground the other.

I don't think you need to ground anything out, and you're probably over-thinking this.  Just take signal from either tip or ring from each Terror.  Flip a coin, doesn't matter.  And you already know how to combine them at your new, actually stereo, headphone jack.

If you really want to get fancy, you can disengage the ring connections in both amps' headphone jacks, and run standard guitar cables (tip + sleeve only) to your new combiner box.

^ That's assuming the Terrors have 1/4" headphone jacks.
Speaking only for myself, I would like to thank Brian, Sebastian and entire crew at for giving me (a lowly mechanical engineer) the impetus to learn about all about JFETs and MOSFETs - a journey I wouldn't have undertaken had I not built the Omega booster and had it actually work the first time!  :D  From my initial study (using online EE resources), I developed some spreadsheets to predict JFET and MOSFET gain for given bias voltages and/or source/drain resistors. These enabled me to understand how the basic gain stages worked.  I've since learned how to use LTSpice, and have simulated several effects pedal circuits, including the ROG Azabache and Britannia, again in a quest to understand how the circuits perform.

I also agree that JFETs circuits with topologies similar to a tube can yield good results.  I particularly like the Supreaux and others like the Eighteen and Umble are cool in their own ways.  The Dr. Boogey I built is outstanding as well.  And this kind of design has been replicated over and over in the commercial pedal world (e.g. Plexidrive).

I should note that I never expected these circuits to sound ** exactly ** like any particular amp (or preamp), although at some settings with a given guitar and clean amp, they can yield some nice tube amp-like tones.  Of course, if you really want/need REAL tube amp tones, then buy a tube amp!  But playing with JFET/MOSFET circuits is good fun and, well, you never know - you may in the end come up with something that sounds great!
Building your own stompbox / A/B Switcher with Bi-Color LED Indicator
« Last post by natron_mn on Today at 06:39:49 AM »
I would like to build an A/B switching pedal, but instead of two separate LED indicators I would like to use one bi-color LED.

I've never worked with a bi-color LED before, so I'm not sure how to proceed.

I was going to use this diagram for the A/B switcher.

And this is an image for how to wire a bi-color LED. But I am two dense to work this image into the image above. Any thoughts?

Digital & DSP / Re: Raspberry Pi
« Last post by Ruptor on Today at 06:29:53 AM »
I received my little UDA1380 board that has microphone and earphone I/O as well as the line in & out sockets. It is very complex to program :icon_rolleyes: so I am looking at software examples like this
to try and get a handle on things.
The Julia Roberts?
Building your own stompbox / Re: The most rewarding part of DIY pedals
« Last post by suncrush on Today at 06:26:09 AM »
Running a little hot?
am I right in thinking that this may be what I was originally guessing? That it does FFT magic to figure out the actual notes (i.e., fundamental freqs) being played, then "reconstructs" those notes with the timbre you want? That's what I understood from "only has 6 fundamental freqs", anyway.
Yes it is a good question since a guitar can generate three fundamental notes an octave apart in a chord but midi guitar adapters seem to manage it and once you have the fundamentals it is easy to feed them through any effect or make them any instrument you want.
Okay, so we are looking at the exact same schematics.  That's a great start.
Judging from the legending that I can see, it looks like the same part numbers are legended for the distortion part.  If you can get a gut shot of a PDW somewhere, you should be able to simply install the missing parts, and confirm the connections to a second stompswitch with the picture.

Would you need to drill holes for additional controls/toggles-switches?
Getting a blister on your finger. From an LM13600.
C1 value will be fine r a 100nf no need to go bigger.
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10