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Building your own stompbox / Re: Pedal parts suppliers in Europe
« Last post by rockola on Today at 03:03:21 AM »
The OP doesn't seem to be coming to Helsinki, but for anyone else that might, Uraltone http://www.uraltone.com/ has pedal parts including enclosures.
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Had a quick look through my notes of the BMP Rams Head resistor values and found the following;

R22 = 2K7
R23 = 10K

Sometimes R23 may be a 12K resistor. These values are just the recommended values. You may wish to try different values in order to chase "that certain tone".

As antonis said:

Quote
If I trace correctly, R22 is Q4 Emitter resistor which should have a value of 2k7..
(with R23 Collector resistor value of 12k, result in 13db gain/recovery..)

This is what the figures for this stage should be. Change these resistors and your BMP should behave itself properly.

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Try and see if you find some PCBs on ebay or olx.pl - it was copied as hell without even credits given
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Building your own stompbox / Re: 15 malfunctioning MN3007?!
« Last post by Rob Strand on Today at 02:00:14 AM »
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Is it possible that what was sold to you as an MN3007 was actually an MN3207?
The 30xx and 32xx series have different Vdd and Vgg from each other.

Despite what is written on the package that could well be the case.  Worth investigating IMHO.
Like it could be an NE555 which doesn't work - who knows.

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Quote
So in order to get a match for a flat response the probes have an adjuster which trims C1 to match C2. 
It occurred to me most CRO probes will actually add a fixed C1 then place an adjustable C2 in parallel.    Wide-band voltmeters and the inside of CRO's tend to have adjustable C1's.   The idea is still the same.


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Building your own stompbox / Re: Aion Refractor (Klon clone)Issues
« Last post by Big mike 1100 on Yesterday at 10:43:15 PM »
would it make sense to

Make sure that the resistors and caps etc are the right sizes again?  I've done it a few times, but will do it again if that could be the reason for the issue?

Or with the audio probe, is there a point on the board where gain and tone might work and then just stop working? 

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Building your own stompbox / Re: Underperforming Maestro FZ-1B
« Last post by Aph on Yesterday at 10:42:20 PM »
Maybe dumb questions here.  Could the Balance be rewired to a blend, instead of one end going to ground?  Are the clean and dirty parts out of phase?

I tried that. Unfortunately, the clean sound was still dirty with not much gain.
This mod will give plenty of make-up gain even with the "Dirt" turned down a bit. Still not the greatest fuzz sound though, IMHO.


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Building your own stompbox / Re: Aion Refractor (Klon clone)Issues
« Last post by Slowpoke101 on Yesterday at 10:24:56 PM »
I just noted your last edit.
Damn. I was hoping that you were close to getting the effect to work properly. Oh well...
I will have another look to see if there is anything else that could be causing this problem.
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Building your own stompbox / Re: Aion Refractor (Klon clone)Issues
« Last post by Slowpoke101 on Yesterday at 10:18:45 PM »
As long as: "2&3 connect****strike that!  found a stray wire.  should be ok!" in now OK, then the switch tests OK. Now for the wiring.

Apply power and make sure that the LED lights up in when the effect is engaged and goes out when in bypass mode. If it does then go to the next step. If the LED doesn't behave have expected then you have to find out why.
If all is good then remove power will in bypass mode (LED not lit). Test for continuity between board connection point 1.1 and the tip terminal of the output connector. If there is continuity click the stomp switch to engaged and test for continuity between board connection point 1.3 and the tip terminal of the output connector. If there is continuity then the major switch wiring is correct.
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Building your own stompbox / Re: Debugging a Timmy+ MG clone
« Last post by suryabeep on Yesterday at 10:12:23 PM »
Guys you were right! I resoldered the timmy board and went over all trace cuts and checked continuity and now that board works (I think).
Another problem has come up: in bypass mode, there is an awful hum. The i/o jacks are right above two pots which I've insulated with electrical tape (the usual Tayda pot covers are too fat). There is continuity from the in jack to the out jack, but not from the in jack tip to ground. Everything that should be grounded is showing continuity to a main ground bus (a little 5 hole strip of Vero). I'm also using a similar strip of Vero for a 9v bus. Could this be the reason for the hum?
Also, the MG board shows the right voltages and continuity/non-continuity as expected, but still doesn't work after cleaning and resoldering. I may be wrong on this though, because I only gave it a precursory test - I have to test it again this evening
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