Know any creative "easy" ways to cover holes?

[J0K3RX]

I have about 10 boxes that have been pre-drilled in various configurations.. I was wondering if anybody knew of an easy way to cover up the holes or some of the holes so I can drill new holes for other projects that I have? I could just use them for whatever they were drilled for like for example a 1590B drilled for a classic tube screamer type layout but I have other ideas.. The only thing I have come up with is a piece of thin steel plate cut to size and pop riveted over the whole face or sides of the boxes which is a bit of too much work in my opinion! Since enclosures don't really cost "that much" it seems stupid to "go all out" to cover them!? Another example is a 1590bb drilled and the front has 5 pot holes and 2 stomp switch holes which is fine but the input, output and power jacks are not where I want them... Any ideas? I know some of you guys are very creative in here that's why I ask

[lonewolf]

I place a piece of masking tape over the hole and from the other side fill it with jb weld or something similar smoothing it with a piece od tin or a piece of plastic like a credit card...then when it cures remove the tape .I use the painters tape that is blue or green..then just finish the surface..it works great..you can also do reairs like cracks,etc..and smooth with a file or sandpaper

[tubegeek]

+1 JB Weld

[Jdansti]

+1 JB Weld is great stuff.

This type of epoxy putty is also pretty good. Cures rock hard.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Rectorseal-EP-400-4-oz-Epoxy-Putty/100174269/

I clean and scuff up around the hole on the inside of the enclosure and spread the epoxy out beyond the hole on the inside to give it extra holding power. I wet my hands with a little water to keep it be putty from gumming up on my fingers.

If the hole is larger than 1/4", you might want to cut a piece of window screen or similar material and epoxy it to the inside of the enclosure and then go back and fill in the hole with epoxy.

[deadastronaut]

leds...

or make a face plate to cover the whole front.

[J0K3RX]

See, that's why I asked Great advice/ideas!!! Why didn't I think of that

The only dumb question is the one that didn't get asked, right

Rob - Yeah it is getting to be Christmas and LEDS could work... You know I used to put those ultra bright leds in my pedals until one night I was in the dark and I went to stomp one of my masterpieces and found that it temporarily blinded me then I tripped over some stuff and almost fell Now I use the standard brightness leds... If I want to blind myself I can just flip my mouse over and stare into the pretty red light Who needs retinas anyway...

[deadastronaut]

^ ha ha...diffuse those retina destroyers with a bit of fine sand paper...

[MmmPedals]

If the holes are perfectly round and smooth you may want to rough up the edges to give the JB weld something to hold on to.

[edvard]

Holes I'm not particularly worried about I plug with any of the various sizes of hole plugs, available in chrome or plastic.
Like these:
http://hillcofasteners.com/prod/Hole-Plugs-Chrome---12__CH500.aspx

Otherwise, fill with JB.

[amptramp]

Those old jewel-type pilot light housings are made in various sizes (some with a mechanical dimming feature that dims when you rotate the housing).  You can get them in sizes up to 1 inch diameter mounting holes (Dialco 75 or 910 series).  The Dialco 857B series is more common and is 1/2".  There are a lot of other sizes as well.

[Devius]

I refinished my 1st guitar and filled one of the holes with 2 part epoxy. Turned out great!

[R.G.]

Cut a piece of plexiglas or aluminum to fit over the top, with nicely finished edges and corners. Drill and tap holes to hold it down on the top. When you're happy with how this looks, remove it, and cut out the original top entirely, leaving only edge reinforcement and the fixing holes. Now put holes where you want them in the new panel.  If you used plexiglass, edge light it from the inside, and pretend you intended to do this all along.

Mess up? Make a new flat panel.

[jymaze]

I sacrifice a penny that I superglue from the inside, then fills the outside and levels it with epoxy resin. Since the super-glued penny is stuck to the box so hard than an elephant could probably step on it, there is not risk for the epoxy to collapse or even move and crack during future stomping abuse.

[chi_boy]

It depends where the new holes would be in relation to the old, but how about a thin etched circuit board?

I've seen John Lyons and some others, use pcb material with artwork etched into the copper as a "faceplate."  With that approach, the holes would be hidden, without the need to fill them.

Just a thought....

[EATyourGuitar]

turn it upside down like a trogotronic

[deadastronaut]

^ now that is too obvious... 

[moosapotamus]

I've also used bondo (auto-body filler).

~ Charlie

[petey twofinger]

cant believe i didnt think to use jb weld , i did this with hot glue , but ... its still in there as of now .

ot , but has anyone used the jb quick weld ?

is it " not good " as i was told ?

i really do not trust the person who told me this ... for many good reasons but i digress .

[defaced]

If you know (or have access to) welding equipment that can be used to weld aluminum, you can do as I do:
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=39601

[PRR]

JB Weld is good stuff.

It must be mixed well.

It can't be old. (1-2 years tops.)

It can't work miracles. It won't stick to grease. It won't stick to paint... well, it will, then the paint pulls off.

I am dubious about it sticking to thin edges of large holes. That's very weak mechanically. A penny on the backside makes a far better connection. However this may foil any new hole or pot plan you have. Thin scrap from tin can may work.

As you say, there's only so much worth doing to save a few-dollar box. I'm trying to patch and re-hole a fusebox so I'm much more into heavy bolts and boards.