Switching between Tube Screamer versions

Started by Mexxx, July 08, 2013, 03:02:48 PM

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Mexxx

Hey guys!
So I found this video by Daniel Araujo - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2TMUW9G6QY&list=FLrBdpNwPAJsSDbeSLqIiUnQ&index=1

And he has modded his TS clone in a way that there is a swtich for switching between the TS-808 and TS-09 (between the caps and resistors, I guess) and a switch for sym and assymetrical clipping.

How to do that and maybe there is a clear and explanatory guide for this somewhere? I have been searching, but can't seem to find one. And the guy doesn't respond to PMs.

Electron Tornado

Honestly, did you hear any difference between the TS-808 and TS-9 positions? If you listen to the video with your eyes closed can you tell which setting is being used?

Here's a great article on Tube Screamers:  http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.htm
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Mark Hammer

The difference between the TS-9 and TS-808 would seem to be in the output stage and the manner in which they load (or don't load) the next device in line.  Since we have no idea what the next device in line ought to be, or might be, ET's suggestion that you might not notice any difference is correct.  That is not to say that there IS no audible difference, just that the conditions under which it is apparent stand a pretty good chance of not being your particular conditions.  So why drive yuorself crazy over it.  Build the one OR the other and be happy.

The symmetry/asymmetry thing is a little different.  I think there is something to be gained by having some means to vary the degree of symmetry, or the clipping threshold.  So, it is not unreasonable, or difficult, to make yourself a 3-diode TS-808, using the Tonepad layout, and install a switch to bridge one of the diodes along the path where there are two diodes in series.  So, you would install D2 or D3  a little higher off the board, so you can get at the diode leads, wrap the ends of some stripped wire around each side of the diode, solder it in place, and run those two wires to a SPST toggle switch.  That would switch between symmetrical and asymmetrical.

The difference would not be immediately noticeable, but after playing in the one mode vs the other for a while, you'd notice a little more "sponginess" or compression when using the symmetrical mode (1 diode in each direction), and a little less volume as well.

If you install that, and perhaps another toggle to add in a .1uf cap in parallel with the .047uf cap between the negative pin of the chip and ground (to add more bass), you'll have a lot more audible variety in the pedal than you would attempting to do the TS-9 to TS-808 conversion on the fly, and with far less trouble as well.

Ultimately, it is a matter of how much advantage you gain in real-world circumstances, for the amount of trouble or effort invested.  Having been down this road many many times, I think you'll find lots of value for very little effort.

Seljer

Heres the goliath of all switchable option tubescreamers: http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ScreamerLab/ :)

Messing around with it on my breadboard, I can vouch that the most useful options are different clipping diodes and different values of the capacitor that sets the mid-hump. The one I've got boxed up has got a switch for different clipping diodes (or no diodes for a mid boost type sound) but I one day I'm probably going to rewire it to have three different values for that mid-hump capacitor.

rousejeremy

I have to build a Screamer Lab someday. I'd like to be able to say "My Tubescreamer has all the mods".
Consistency is a worthy adversary

www.jeremyrouse.weebly.com

Mexxx

This http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ScreamerLab/images/ScreamerWiring.gif is just WOW!
As always, Beavisaudio doesn't stop surprising me.

And a huge thanks for giving the link and for the responses, guys!

The last questions:

- if we take the Screamer lab, can I just solder a, for example, regular TS-808 from Tonepad and use the symetrical clipping, then wiring a switch, as in the Beavislab diagram, to get assymterical clipping would mean wiring that switch according to the second (lower line) of switches for diodes (with the pink lines)?
-  And if I am trying to mod the second diode Di2, I don't add a diode, but rather leave it empty? Or I leave the Di2 in and wire it up to the switch?

- Also, the TS808/09 mod - does it really require two switches to switch between the two versions of the pedal? The resistor values on the board are from the TS-808 (acc. to Tonepad), but each of the switches seem to combine those resistors with a different value resistor from the tonepad version. Should I leave them empty on the pcb and instead wire the switches in the holes or do I solder the wires to the resistors? Also, Beavis states that it is possible to wire it up to a bigger switch, is that what Daniel has done in the video I added in the first post?

I hope I got my language right and you can understand everything.

peterg

Mexxx. You can find out more information re mods from Mad Bean Pedals Green Bean document.


pakrat