Fire Power Booster - schematic inside

Started by Alinne Vlad, August 12, 2013, 09:47:21 PM

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Alinne Vlad

Hi folks, my first post here. I' from Brazil and yes, I'm girl that loves electronic studies, stompboxes, etc.
So, we have here in Brazil some cool pedals,. Why not share with you guys??

The actual Fire Power Booster is a nice clean active Bass e Treble booster. Flat response with Bass e Treble at center and Booster at minimun adjust.
There's a switch to a Dirty mode - an overdrive for sure or a clean booster.




Kipper4

wow Cool
How effective is the tone stack?
Thanks for sharing and welcome aboard Alinne
Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

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Alinne Vlad

Quote from: Kipper4 on August 12, 2013, 11:55:25 PM
wow Cool
How effective is the tone stack?
Thanks for sharing and welcome aboard Alinne

Thank you Kipper

This guy is boring as hell ( the video guy not you Kipper  :D ).,,jeeezzz
Sorry for that guys, but you can hear the pedal in action
tip: jump ALL the yada yada yada boring talk. about 6:00 minutes

http://youtu.be/xHRjQZFpwbQ?t=6m


psychedelicfish

Cool! Unless you plan to share your PCB layout, I might knock together a PCB for it.
What do you reckon guys? Is it 1590Able?
If at first you don't succeed... use bigger transistors!

meffcio

Quote from: psychedelicfish on August 13, 2013, 02:01:16 AM
Cool! Unless you plan to share your PCB layout, I might knock together a PCB for it.
What do you reckon guys? Is it 1590Able?
Think different. Everything is 1590Able ;)
This one probably even without use of smd components.

samhay

Thanks for sharing Alinne - DC coupled stages and a Guvnor style gain setup are both tricks I am quite fond of.

psychedelicfish - A quad op-amp is not an especially tight fit in a 1590A, but there is quite a lot happening in the gain stages of 2 of the op-amps, which might give you a bit of a headache. Good luck.
I'm a refugee of the great dropbox purge of '17.
Project details (schematics, layouts, etc) are slowly being added here: http://samdump.wordpress.com

electrosonic

Usually the  pots in that Baxandall tone stack are linear. The log pots will skew the response in the mid setting (as opposed to the normal flat response when the pots are set at their mid points)

Andrew.
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Alinne Vlad


slacker

Looks great, thanks for sharing. On the schematic are the switches in the boost position? So Dirty adds the diodes and connects C4 to REF.

electrosonic

Looks like when the diodes are added, the low end is cut a little - a little less muddy for the distortion settings I guess.

Andrew.
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Govmnt_Lacky

That 470uF electro might make it un-1590A-able  :-\
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Hemmel

Are there some jumpers missing or something ?
I'm guessing the 14 empty connectors mean there are 7 jumpers ?
Bââââ.

Alinne Vlad

Quote from: Hemmel on August 13, 2013, 01:11:44 PM
Are there some jumpers missing or something ?
I'm guessing the 14 empty connectors mean there are 7 jumpers ?

Fixed. Sorry guys.

midwayfair

Thanks for sharing. I like the way the dirty mode switch was done.
My band, Midway Fair: www.midwayfair.org. Myself's music and things I make: www.jonpattonmusic.com. DIY pedal demos: www.youtube.com/jonspatton. PCBs of my Bearhug Compressor and Cardinal Harmonic Tremolo are available from http://www.1776effects.com!

earthtonesaudio

Pulldowns on the mode switch, what luxury!

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 13, 2013, 01:06:16 PM
That 470uF electro might make it un-1590A-able  :-\

Should be safe to use a smaller value, especially if your power supply is decent.

Alinne Vlad

Quote from: earthtonesaudio on August 13, 2013, 06:55:07 PM
Pulldowns on the mode switch, what luxury!

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 13, 2013, 01:06:16 PM
That 470uF electro might make it un-1590A-able  :-\

Should be safe to use a smaller value, especially if your power supply is decent.

Nope, no pulldown resistors, they are  just for set a lower  gain  for each pair ( R4/C3 ) for dirty setting and ( R7/C4 ) for clean setting.
R4/C3 are "ignored" at Dirty mode and R7/C4 are "ignored" at Clean mode.

electrosonic

At first glance, you could remove R5 and R6 and replace them with a single 1 M resistor from C3 to C4 (across terminals 1 and 3 of the switch). It would functionally be the same, but save a resistor.

Andrew.
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psychedelicfish

Quote from: electrosonic on August 13, 2013, 08:20:58 PM
At first glance, you could remove R5 and R6 and replace them with a single 1 M resistor from C3 to C4 (across terminals 1 and 3 of the switch). It would functionally be the same, but save a resistor.

Andrew.

That makes sense, I'll do that in my layout. My layout is probably going to be SMD, because I'm using circuits.io and didn't notice that the default footprint for passives was SMD, and I've done too much now to be bothered changing it all.
If at first you don't succeed... use bigger transistors!