My kit doesn't work! Please help!

Started by MCToast, November 07, 2013, 09:43:19 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

MCToast





I'm trying to give out as much info as I can so it's not too painful to help me. I tried with new 9v batteries, 2W 8ohm speakers and jacks, but I don't hear any sounds whatsoever, I tried moving the blue plastic things to change the output and input, wiggled pots and all. The left IC (on the first pic) gets really hot, I don't have any pins or solder touch other stuff, so do I have components on the wrong place? I checked that all the things were in correct places and the polarity as well.

Jack sockets could be wrong, heated IC or some other thing, this is my 1st kit, so I don't have any idea what I am doing. Kit's a velleman echo delay pedal.

I don't have picture of the naked PCB sorry :S
Here's how it should look, but I can't spot anything that's different to mine.



LOOK HERE FOR ADDED INFO:
I'll leave my old ''post'' as it is. All parts checked to be on correct places, polarity checked too. all parts used were with this kit.
1 of the smaller IC's getting really hot, it's the one that's close to the on/off switch.

Product name: mk182 velleman echo

Links: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2123944_-1

SCHEMATIC HERE:
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2123944%20Schematic.pdf

INSTRUCTIONS HERE:
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2123944.pdf

Pojo

I can tell you put a lot of time into preparing this post, but please look over this link and update us with the additional info that the thread mentions:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

All I can suggest at this point is to trim the component leads on the back of the pcb all the way down to the solder joint, those ends sticking out are a short waiting to happen!

scuzzphut

Check your jack sockets.

On the bottom right picture, you have no wire connected to the tip.

The long springy arm on the socket connects to the tip of the guitar cable and carries the signal. It's solder terminal is the one opposite that has nothing connected at the moment.

The other picture of the other jack is too blurry to see.


MCToast

#3
Post modified, I hope it's more helpful now. I don't have a good tool to trim the leads yet.


Ok, so how I connect the line ins and line outs? Maybe the reason is this, but I don't think the IC's are supposed to be warm enough to burn my fingers. I don't also know any terminology, so go easy :D Nothing's been soldered to them other than wires.

The blurry picture wasn't really important as I just put the sockets there to show what I had in mind, so where signal and ground go?

wavley

Looks like you did a pretty good job, but I would go and clip your leads closer to your solder joint, there are a few that look like they're hanging over and touching ground planes, I know there is a solder mask but it's possible one of those leads scratched through it and you have a short or they might bend over an touch a trace they aren't supposed to.
New and exciting innovations in current technology!

Bone is in the fingers.

EccoHollow Art & Sound

eccohollow.bandcamp.com

Rixen

the picture of the underside- looks like C15 is shorted ?

tranceracer

check and re-check the solder pads and be sure that there are no micro bridges.  Use a micro screwdriver to scrape around and between the pads to be sure there is no contact.  Sometimes flux has some conductive metals in it to create low resistance or contact bridges, especially with boards that are as tight as the one in the pics.

As wavley said, trim them leads!  (;

electrosonic

Are R1 to R4 10k resistors? (brown black orange) from here they look brown black red (1k)

Andrew.

  • SUPPORTER

PRR

> I don't think the IC's are supposed to be warm enough to burn my fingers.

That is a problem.

Probably battery or chip connected backward.
  • SUPPORTER

MCToast

#9
R1 and R4 are with a orange stripe. I have now trimmed the board:


I checked everything quite a few times, I found no micro bridges, it made some glue type of thing when ever I heated the board, so that's off too. (Not sure what to call it)

I found a broken pad thing, which I connected with wires as so:

I checked many of the "broken paths" with a multimeter (shorted or whatever, when they can't connect to each other.), but they all works, I checked C15 with it and seems to connect.

Nothing still seems to work and IC is still burning hot.

Pojo

The IC maybe fried at this point and need replaced. But the underlying cause will still need to be addressed before you even try another opamp.  Do you own a multimeter? Knowing the voltages for all of the IC's will help us tremendously.

MCToast

I do have a multimeter, but how I check the IC's? I tried a google search, but I'm pretty stupid and didn't find an answer.

duck_arse

using the layout for your results suggested in this thread:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

which we know you've read;

set your meter to dcV, 20V range probably, connect the black lead of the meter to some part of your circuit that is connected to the negative of the battery. with no guitar or amp plugged in, carefully place the tip of the red lead on each pin of each ic and transistor, and write down whatever the meter indicates.

measure your battery voltage. your IC2 pin8 and IC3 pin6 should read about 0.6 V less than your battery voltage. if they don't, you have a short somewhere you need to find. if pin1 of IC1 is not very close to 5V (4.8 ~ 5V2 ish), you have a short on the 5V line. if you have a short on either supply line, switch off power and find it, before bothering with the rest of the pins.

then come back and tell us.
You hold the small basket while I strain the gnat.

MCToast

IC1
2.30
1.10
0.05
0.05
0.10
1.60
1.20
0.05
0.94

1.03
1.03
0.80
0.70
0.60
0.20
1.20
1.20

IC2 get's burning hot.
2,24
1,49
0
2,28

1,85
1,85
0,75
0,01

IC3
0
0
0
0

0
0
2,24
0

Battery was 4.30. It was used one so idk.

I probably did something wrong here again, also sorry for late reply, I wish someone still wants to help me.

newperson

#14
You got dead ICs now most likely.  Just get three new ones.  The battery should be at least 8.5VDC to 9.7VDC when newish.  You should test the IC socket holes without the ICs when in doubt of having the correct voltages.  Put those numbers up and compare them to the set you put up first.  If you are getting more than the max power to an IC it will most likely burn it up.  If something is burn your finger hot with a 9V battery you might have a short somewhere.  

pinkjimiphoton

electrolytics c17 and c20 look like they may be oriented incorrectly. that could definitely cause issues if they are. make sure the stripe (negative) is on the correct side. wrong side, it won't work, or worse, will cook something else.
  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr