Best way to solder on pad-per-hole perf board?

[Squirrel Murphy]

I just built my first stick-built circuit on perfboard and my techique is questionable. I'm not a total noob to soldering,
but I've never used perfboard before and I'm looking for some sage advice. I did some searching but couldn't find something about
what I'm specifically asking.

The main issue is how best to get nodes of 2, 3, and 4 component leads so there is continuty between them. I tried 4 ways, each of
which may horrify you.

• Solder each component lead to the pad on its hole like you would for a PCB.  One gumdrop per hole. Leads at 90-degrees to the
  board. Two adjacent holes don't touch so add solder between to get continuity between the two. I don't like this because adding solder
  remelts the first two gumdrops. I could oversolder so big gumdrops touch... I haven't tried that.
• Bend the leads down against the board and physically touch the leads against each other. Solder each to it's own hole to
  anchor it. Continuity is through the physical connection. Maybe add some solder to the physical joint for good measure. I did
  this for most of the connections and it works good for 2 and 3 hole nodes but more connections makes it harder.
• Twist groups of longer leads together for a good physical connection. Solder the twist together. This is messy looking.
• Add a lead or bare wire that runs from one hole to the next (and oneward as required). Solder each hole and join the
  wire to the joint at the same time. I did this for my ground bus. Works well for 3+ holes, but is no fun for 2-holes because the run
  is only a few mm long.

I did get each type to work. I can get continuity from lead to lead on the component side of the board. But it's messy and may
have cold solder joints. Results are inconsistant. I'm going to remove the solder and do it "right". But what is right?

[mth5044]

When I do perf I usually start with the first component, bend the leads in the next direction and solder in all of its leads but don't clip them. If it's a straight shot to the next component/s, place the next components in line and solder the pad and two leads together at the pad. If there is a turn in the layout, bend the new components lead down in the next direction before soldering. Essentially the leads are the traces of a PCB.

Check out Frequency Central's perf work to get a picture of how a great does it.

[GibsonGM]

I use techniqe #2 and #4.  If I NEED to, I'll add another piece of wire to bridge, but usually use the part's lead to run to the pad it needs to. I build literally EVERYTHING this way, even up to an Easyvibe in complexity.  No etching. 

I don't like the 'flow solder to bridge', as I just feel it's not secure like having the leads touch & be soldered together.  But whatever works!

I also try to make a ground bus around the board, or part of it, in a "J".   Makes things convenient.

[Squirrel Murphy]

Essentially the leads are the traces of a PCB.

That clicked with me. I'll do a redo tonight and see how it goes. Thanks.