Tips for logical order in populating your PCBoard.

[DIMstompboxes]

Hello DIYer,
Given now you have all the parts on-hand as the following:

1. IC socket
2. Resistor,
3. Jumper wire
4. Capacitor
5. Diode
6. Transistor
7. Trimmer
8. other more (pls include)
You're ready to do your soldering... What/which would you start with? Just your logical sequence (2-4-5-1-...etc) OR you could say why it should be the first...OR does anyone here do the random(mix) thing? Like starting to the upper right corner first down to the left lower corner last....

I or we're just asking your better strategy/opinion/suggestion to follow.
Thanks,
Roger

[mth5044]

Jumper -> resistor -> diodes -> IC Socket -> trimmer -> the little circle caps -> transistor sockets -> box caps -> electros.

[armdnrdy]

I don't know if there's much logic involved save for the fact that I install and solder the most easily damaged components last.

1, 3, 2, 4, 7, 5, 6

#8 other....can vary greatly depending on the build.

I also install components from a BOM with designations, the schematic, and an overlay for reference.

I don't put in all of the 1Ks, then the 10Ks...etc.

I install per the BOM. It takes a bit longer to populate the board but I end up with less components in the wrong place. 

[R.G.]

Solder in order of lowest height first. This lets you put a pad of foam on cardboard over the board, turn it over, and have the foam press the parts in.

Generally I do SMD parts first (if any); then lying-flat 1/4W resistors. Then DIP ICs. Then capacitors, by height. At each stage, I place all parts for that height, place the hold-in pad on the board, flip it over, and solder at least one lead. Then the next layer/height.

I keep a printed parts layout and BOM and do double markoff of the physical layout and list. It catches a lot of errors.

[MrStab]

i tend to go in order of height, too - so it's less hassle to keep resistors etc. flat against the board. so, to follow Matt's ordering system:

resistors and diodes > jumpers > caps > IC sockets (and trimmers, if applicable) > offboard wiring > transistors.

i do jumpers second because i find them irrationally boring, and i leave transistors til last because they seem to be the most likely to die from excess heat. MOSFETs particularly, i don't know if that's down to static or what, but i figure the less i have to handle them, the better.

i usually try to start from the top-left, from the outer-most component on the board. i just find it easier to work that way - i miss out less components.

anal thought: i sometimes wonder if i'm inclined to go from left-right because i've written in English my whole life, whereas maybe people who write in Arabic would be inclined to go from right-left. hmm...

[greaser_au]

I usually order by height, subject to fragility (thermal or ESD), then value/partslist order.

david

[duck_arse]

just height, like I was taught.

[JRB]

Height makes the most sense to me.

I also socket every transistor, IC and what ever has more then two legs in case it needs to be fixed one day.
The exception to the legs rule is the big LM78XX series.

[IsaacMoth]

I agree, lowest profile parts to highest. Learned that hard way a few times!

[armdnrdy]

I see that some of you use foam/carpet etc. to hold the components in place while soldering.

I bend the leads of the components at the solder pads to hold them in place.

Is there a problem in doing it this way?

[Hemmel]

I see that some of you use foam/carpet etc. to hold the components in place while soldering.

I bend the leads of the components at the solder pads to hold them in place.

Is there a problem in doing it this way?

I tried that on vero and it caused a few solders to touch adjacent tracks and short them. I had to scratch out the excess solder or redo it.
Soldering with foam pushing up components never caused me problems.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I see that some of you use foam/carpet etc. to hold the components in place while soldering.

I bend the leads of the components at the solder pads to hold them in place.

Is there a problem in doing it this way?

Same here! Cant remember the last time I had a solder bridge problem 

[mth5044]

I see that some of you use foam/carpet etc. to hold the components in place while soldering.

I bend the leads of the components at the solder pads to hold them in place.

Is there a problem in doing it this way?

I do it like that too and never had a problem. I imagine it's an issue if someone were to use too much solder.

Also, I just figured out what your forum name was. I had always assumed it was some kind of northern European name 

[armdnrdy]

Also, I just figured out what your forum name was. I had always assumed it was some kind of northern European name 

It's phonetic for a Michael Schenker song. 

But....I am of Northern Italian and Northern Spanish descent.

[Ice-9]

Solder in order of component height , lowest to highest. Doing it this way helps to keep components in place when the pcb is turned over for soldering. Also when it comes to component types and values. For example, I will solder all resistors that are 1k all at the same time then move onto the next value etc and the same with caps

[DIMstompboxes]

Well height makes the most sense to many...
I usually start with jumper for me to check out the continuity of the circuit board afterward by using DMM beeper, then IC socket to double check again also the continuity if the socket soldering had failed especially those many socket requirement which gave me so much hard time to debug before when IC sockets was the last when following height idea.
Next is resistor which I could still check the value afterward then next those values can't be check, diode, ceramic, box, electro, etc....

I also bend those lead when my soldering helping hand can't hold it for me....So what is this foam many of you are using? Is it a styrofoam? and how it is use?

[Ice-9]

Also, I just figured out what your forum name was. I had always assumed it was some kind of northern European name 

It's phonetic for a Michael Schenker song. 

But....I am of Northern Italian and Northern Spanish descent.

Ha great ' Armed and ready' that's made my day to learn that. I used to love my 'One night at the budokan' double live album. 

[Thecomedian]

I see that some of you use foam/carpet etc. to hold the components in place while soldering.

I bend the leads of the components at the solder pads to hold them in place.

Is there a problem in doing it this way?

I see that some of you use foam/carpet etc. to hold the components in place while soldering.

I bend the leads of the components at the solder pads to hold them in place.

Is there a problem in doing it this way?

I tried that on vero and it caused a few solders to touch adjacent tracks and short them. I had to scratch out the excess solder or redo it.
Soldering with foam pushing up components never caused me problems.

I usually trim and form leads before soldering in place, rather than doing the cutting after. Haven't had a problem with that as long as the layout is 100% and you're not going to change it. Even if you do, extra cut leads or bus wire can bridge a gap of a last minute change. This also means that when you bend the leads over and then cut the wire, the remaining bent wire should be too short to cause bridging, and have enough tension not to shift around much.

If you do it this way, you can also put all the stuff in and cut the wires without ever turning the solder iron on. When they're all done, then you just have to turn it on, run over the spots once with hot tip and solder, and the entire board is done. It's kind of like making a kit every time. Instead of breaking off parts from a plastic mold and snapping it together so its done, you're taking the pre-cut components and just insert -> solder and done.

[jpwilksch]

Lowest to highest.

I also like to semi-clinch my leads (45 degrees) to hold components in and provide some mechanical strength to the joint (just like I was taught :-)

Fully-clinched leads (flat to board) are stronger, but a real pain to remove if the need arises.

[duck_arse]

"the girls" on the production line used those flap-over adjustable frames, sliding bars hold the boards, shove the parts in, (no funny bending) clamp the lid with its foam down on the component side, flip the frame, and solder. all the while talking to their sister.

I left out the talking bit and the flip frame, but have always copied the basic method.