Need help repairing Ibanez FL-9

[smallpoxchampion]

So this is my first venture into bring a commercial pedal back to life. Not super familiar with flanger circuits. As it stands right now, it won't pass a signal when the pedal is on or off. The LED does come on though. I see a bunch of solder bridges on the board but i'm not sure if someone tried to fix this before it landed in my hands. Where's a good place to start?

[smallpoxchampion]

[duck_arse]

find some circuit diagram so you know what you're looking at. have a look-see if there is a protection diode gone bad, maybe some scortching. then start measuring voltages. make sure you aren't confusing solder bridges with two points on a track covered in solder at the factory.

[Keeb]

Maybe this might be something... http://theawesomepowerofrockets.blogspot.se/2011/08/repairs-ibanez-fl9-flanger.html.

[smallpoxchampion]

So far I've measured the voltage all 5 IC's and here's what I got:

IC101 p1- 0, p2- 0, p3-4.7, p4- 0, p5- 3.1, p6-0, p7-0, p8-9.5
IC102 p1-0, p2-0, p3-4.7, p4- 0, p5 4.7, p6-0, p7-0, p8-9.5

IC103 all 0V
IC104 all 0V
IC105 all 0V

So clearly the last 3 IC's are either shot or there is something else in the way that's preventing them from getting proper voltage. The schematic for this thing is pretty damn hard to read so I'm having trouble verifying the voltages on IC101 and IC102. Should I measure transistor voltages next?

[armdnrdy]

Here's a redrawn schematic that I worked up for a "gift" build.



The PDF is a better printable image:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/FL-9.pdf

[armdnrdy]

It looks to me that the ICs being fed from +5 volts are not getting power.

The +5 volts is produced by IC6....the 5V voltage regulator.

Check the output of the regulator with a meter.

Here's the data sheet for the pin out.

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM78L05A.pdf

[smallpoxchampion]

So I checked the output (pin 1) on the voltage regulator and im getting a big fat 0.
pin 2 is ground so 0 there, and 9v on pin 3.
Maybe touch up the solder joint on the output?

[PRR]

1) fix the solder joints

2) replace regulator

3) FIX regulator flaw. There should be a diode from Out to In. See the regulator data-sheet.
There's a big cap on reg out. If reg IN gets shorted (stuff happens), the out cap discharges through the regulator BACKWARD. It dies. Usually not in the test lab, or right-away in the field, but eventually.

[Dirk_Hendrik]

As I posted "somewhere else";
First impression shows no excessive tampering on the soldering. However, a really sharp photo would help.

The 2 electrolit capacitors (C130~2, 47uF in series) for the LFO need to be replaced, based on the color change in your photo, as well as that they virtually always need to be replaced. It's the caps on the "orange" looking trace on the mid-left side of your photo. I suspect the caps are orange as well.

Find C135 (47uF, 6.3 volts) and replace it.

[smallpoxchampion]

So i replaced the caps and voltage regulator and this thing is still not passing a signal. The voltage regulator is getting all the proper voltage on all pins now which is an improvement. Any other ideas?

[armdnrdy]

Here is a component overlay that I whipped up when I built one of these for a gift.

You can use my schematic, which is easier to read than the factory one. The component designations are the same...just drop the first number. (R101 on the component overlay is R1 on my schematic)

Go through your flanger and check all of the power pins of the ICs first.
Let's see what we have power wise and then go from there.

If you don't know which pins are which....look up the data sheets.

[ilcaccillo]

Hi,
I trying to repair an Ibanez FLL Flanger, the circuit is the same as the FL-9 and also the SF10, all of them the same Maxon circuit.

My problem is similar to other FL-9 users, when I turn the pedal on I only have clean signal, the LED lights up clean signal passes through but the Flange effect is nowhere to be head.
It seems to be a common problem in this circuit although the suggestions other members reported to fix it didn't work. Those where cap replacement and D103 diode (MA150) replacement

So I did a complete recap of all the electrolytic capacitors and I replaced the MA150 D103 diode and I still have the same problem only clean signal.

I will continue my troubleshoot but if everyone in the meanwhile has any suggestion please chime in.

The schematic is a mess to read since most values and components are not discernible. Also it would be nice if the CP points where labelled on the pcb.

[BeastInTheCave]

I'm fixing the same issue but some of the links in this post have gone cold. Any chance you could post them again?