BYOC BBOD --> KingofTone

[turtle441]

So, the recent sale on the Bluesbreaker kits at BYOC inspired me to get one. I'm thinking about trying to covert it to match the specs of Analogman's King of Tone (or at least one half of one... only bought one kit)

I found the schematics online in a couple of different places:
1. diystompboxes
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=98391

2. revolution deux
http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.com/2008/05/analoggirl-king-of-turds-overdrive.html

3. Madbean's site (his King of Clones schematic is identical to 1/2 of what's on diystompboxes)
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/KingOfKlones/docs/KingOfKlones.pdf

Comparing these with the standard schematic from the BYOC kit, here's the changes that I think I need to make: (Component numbering is off of the schematic from the BYOC instructions...   http://byocelectronics.com/bbodinstructions.pdf )
1. Change R3 to 27k
2. Change R4 to 33k
3. Add an additional 10k resistor off of the Drive pot (haven't looked at the circuit board yet, but I'm assuming this'll require a trace cut and surfacemounting the component if I want to board-mount the pots... which I'm less sure I want to do the more I think about things.)
4. Change C4 to 100pF
5. Change C5 to 100n
6. Make sure R5, R8, and R9 are carbon comp
7. Add in a SPST switch in between the clipping diodes and their next connection
8. Add in a 2nd SPST switch between the 1/2V+ and a 2nd set of diodes, which then connect before the tone pot.
9. Add 50k "treble boost" trimpot next to C7
10. Add in 1uF tantalum electrolytic cap in parallel with C8
11. Change R10 to 1M
12. Change R11 and R12 to 47k (I'm not sure whether these are necessary or not. These are the resistors for the voltage dividers. From my limited understanding of electronics theory, I was under the impression that any 2 resistors will work as long as they're both the same value.)

And of course, on top of all of that, I primarily play a strat, so I'll likely be increasing the values of C1, and maybe C6 to keep it from being too shrill.  (Looks like the changes to C4 already handle adjusting that value.)

My questions for the groupmind:
1. Has anybody tried this before with a BYOC kit/board? (one of the schematics cited above has the conversions necessary for the GGG boards. Interestingly, their numbering doesn't match up with BYOC's and it looks like a couple of their component values are different as well, I didn't dig into it too much since it's not the kit I have.)
2. See any obvious errors?
3. If you've done it before, where'd you mount the switches? I'd like to use external toggle switches rather than the DIP switches that the original KOT has, I think that'd give alot more flexibility. Taking a quick look at the board and predrilled chassis that came with, I might try to squeeze them in between the Volume and Drive knobs if there's room in addition to the DC adapter. If not, I may end up not surface-mounting the pots so that I've got some extra flexibility on locating the board. (Or, make some Frankenstein-looking pedal with toggles on one side...)

[Mark Hammer]

I had made myself a Bluesbreaker, but wasn't really taken with it, so I swapped out some component values and made myself a KoT with the same board, which I preferred.  Less harsh, to my ears.

Well, actually about 40% of a KoT.  The KoT has two complete overdrives to cascade or select, a BB board only accommodated one.  The KoT also provides the option of clipping diodes in the feedback loop (as per the BB), on the output of the 2nd gain stage (like a DOD 250), or both at once.  I opted solely for the feedback loop, since I preferred that.  So, like I say, about 40% of a full KoT.

[flopoeko]

6. Make sure R5, R8, and R9 are carbon comp

Turtle 441, thanks for taking the effort. Are you sure these are the right spots? In the BYOC-Schematic they are the one just before the 2nd Gainstage (10k) and before/after the Tone-Control (1k/6,8k).