BYOC ESV Fuzz and Henretta Purple Octave UP mod/project

Started by edson, April 04, 2014, 02:21:47 AM

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edson

Hi, I have a Joyo JF-12 that I was thinking of throwing out, since I didn't like it.

Meaning, I'll throw out the insides :)

So the plan is to move a Henretta Octave up (http://www.henrettaengineering.com/Henretta_Engineering/Products.html) and a BYOC ESV fuzz in its case.

I'd like to have a switch, which changes the order of the effects (fuzz or octave first). Also, they should be individual. Meaning, I can only use the fuzz if I want, or the octave. And the other effect has to be bypassed if not active...

Any pointers on how to wire that specific part?

Furthermore, I will have for the fuzz: Volume, Fuzz, Bias, and for the Octave up volume and blend, but I think I have figured that part out :)

/Edson

samhay

You could use a standard bypass switch for each effect + an order switching (or juggler) switch, perhaps as a toggle.
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/juggler/juggler.htm
I'm a refugee of the great dropbox purge of '17.
Project details (schematics, layouts, etc) are slowly being added here: http://samdump.wordpress.com

edson

Quote from: samhay on April 04, 2014, 05:30:36 AM
You could use a standard bypass switch for each effect + an order switching (or juggler) switch, perhaps as a toggle.
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/juggler/juggler.htm

Thank you!

Did not understand this immediately though....

I was thinking of a pedal with two 3PDTS and 1 switch to change the orders. The effects should be able to be on at the same time too of course :)

/Edson

Mark Hammer

Scroll down near the bottom here - http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/Looper-Switcher/index.htm - and you'll see a nice graphic for an order-flipper switch (A->B or B->A).  I've made a few loop-selector pedals with such a switch, and it works great.

It does not absolutely need to use a 4PDT switch.  If you do it with a stompswitch, then I suppose yes, you will need the status LEDs to tell you which sequence is in effect now.  But if you use a nice compact 3PDT toggle, the package is much smaller, less of a pain to wire up, doesn't need more holes for more LEDs (or use power to light them), and the position of the handle tells you what order things are in presently.  That leaves more room in the box to stuff circuits.

The Send and Return leads shown in the picture will go to the in and out lugs on the stompswitches for the circuits you are stuffing into the chassis.

edson

Quote from: Mark Hammer on April 04, 2014, 01:00:54 PM
Scroll down near the bottom here - http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/Looper-Switcher/index.htm - and you'll see a nice graphic for an order-flipper switch (A->B or B->A).  I've made a few loop-selector pedals with such a switch, and it works great.

It does not absolutely need to use a 4PDT switch.  If you do it with a stompswitch, then I suppose yes, you will need the status LEDs to tell you which sequence is in effect now.  But if you use a nice compact 3PDT toggle, the package is much smaller, less of a pain to wire up, doesn't need more holes for more LEDs (or use power to light them), and the position of the handle tells you what order things are in presently.  That leaves more room in the box to stuff circuits.

The Send and Return leads shown in the picture will go to the in and out lugs on the stompswitches for the circuits you are stuffing into the chassis.

Couldn't I just use a SPDT for the order? And 3PDT only for the on/off of the effects?

I'm a little bit confused, but I guess I should try to draw it to understand better :D Thank you for the feedback.

Mark Hammer

Quote from: edson on April 04, 2014, 01:59:27 PM
Couldn't I just use a SPDT for the order? And 3PDT only for the on/off of the effects?

I'm a little bit confused, but I guess I should try to draw it to understand better :D Thank you for the feedback.


Nope, too many things to be switched around for that.  Look at the wiring diagram carefully, and you'll see that doing it with 3 sets of contacts (each one essentially an SPDT) is the bare minimum if you want to be able to turn A or B on or off, or have them both on/off, with one before the other.

Alternatively, you could always have a box with 4 jacks (2 in, 2 out), and use a short patch cable to take the output of whatever you want on first, and patch it to the input of whatever you want second.  Personally, I find it easier just to reach down and flick a toggle.  Takes less room, too.