Suggestions for enclosure primer and top coat spray paints ???

[steveyraff]

Hey guys,

I posted another thread about how my source for pre-painted white 1590BB enclosures has ran dry, and I can't locate them anywhere else in the U.K.

So, I'm going to have to go down the route of buying all the materials I need to paint my own unfinished enclosures. I think I require 2 grains of Sandpaper, and 2 coarsenesses of wire wool.

I believe I also need white primer spray and white top coat spray. I am quite concerned about this, because when it came to my first build I had about half a dozen failed attempts due to the wrong clear coat spray ruining my water slide decals. (It was poly-urethane based and the chemicals reacted, I needed acrylic).

So - my question is, what exactly do I need to look out fro when it comes to primer spray paint and top-coat spray paint? Do they need to be acrylic based too, to avoid chemical reactions of any kind??

Please advise.

Cheers
Steve.

[steveyraff]

Someone suggested acid etching primer? I was thinking of something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autotek-Professional-Acid-Etch-Primer-Spray-Paint-500ml-Autotek-/151307378323?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item233a9f5e93

Anything else I need to look out for when it comes to the White Top Coat spray? ie acrylic etc?

[bluebunny]

You need Halfords.     Works for me: own-brand car paint, primer and clear lacquer.  And I stopped sanding a looong time ago - life's too short...  

[steveyraff]

You need Halfords.      Works for me: own-brand car paint and clear lacquer.  And I stopped sanding a looong time ago - life's too short...   

Do they have etching primer? I use Halfords now for my acrylic clear coat and it works great - I'm just a little clueless when it comes to the primer and top coats.

So you don't sand?! Does the paint stay on ok? You must be using etching primer at least?

[bluebunny]

(Updated previous reply.)

BTW, don't know about "etching", but it does the job for me.

[steveyraff]

I'd just read a few other threads that said you need to sand, and if you don't sand you'd really need etching primer as it wont stick properly and will come off over time. That worries me!  

Thanks Blue Bunny! It may actually have been you who recommended the Halfords Clear Coat which was a god send after many failed previous attempts. Cheers.

[bluebunny]

Yeah, may have been me.  But don't go trying to find me if it all goes completely pear-shaped!    I am notoriously lazy when it comes to producing perfect enclosures (they're generally not for sale), but I'm getting pretty good results with uncleaned, unsanded die-cast aluminium layered with the Halfords trinity.  Just take care to do a few thin coats of whatever (primer/colour/lacquer) with a 15-20 minute wait in between each (you could get by with a single coat for the primer - it's relatively thick).  Then let it dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours before moving to the next part.  None of this toaster oven nonsense.

YMMV, of course... 

[bluebunny]

I'd just read a few other threads that said you need to sand

If you have the time (and patience), then yes, do it properly!   

[steveyraff]

Will take that all on board. Cheers man.

[duck_arse]

if you really want to do it properly, aluminium wise, use the etch primer. I don't remember the brand I used to use (tru-bite? the old can is still in the shed), but it was australian, water based, and I sprayed it on w/ an airbrush. it left a fairly rough texture, but it sticks, really sticks, like chemically sticks to the al. you can then undercoat/undercoat/sand/overcoat etc to smooth the finish more.

I use acrylic water based internal house paint, from "sample pots" from the hardware. it works, stays on, but is not done to any sort of exacting standards. wouldn't win any prizes on the pictures pages.

I've got a new tin of yellow "metal primer" to try and loads of metal sitting about waiting to be sprayed, but bright shiny things distract me every time.

[edit :] and 2 grades sandpaper means you're not really trying. you need about four grades to do good work, 220 for the metal edges, 400 for metal flat surfaces, 800, 1200 for your colour coats, and some worn-out 1200 to just wave over the finish, because you can't get any 2000 grit. get wet-or-dry (tuff back), don't waste time/money with garnet paper.

[steveyraff]

if you really want to do it properly, aluminium wise, use the etch primer. I don't remember the brand I used to use (tru-bite? the old can is still in the shed), but it was australian, water based, and I sprayed it on w/ an airbrush. it left a fairly rough texture, but it sticks, really sticks, like chemically sticks to the al. you can then undercoat/undercoat/sand/overcoat etc to smooth the finish more.

I use acrylic water based internal house paint, from "sample pots" from the hardware. it works, stays on, but is not done to any sort of exacting standards. wouldn't win any prizes on the pictures pages.

I've got a new tin of yellow "metal primer" to try and loads of metal sitting about waiting to be sprayed, but bright shiny things distract me every time.

Interesting!

Well , I am just trying to keep a standard consistently with my previous pedals which I'd bought pre-painted. I have to say though, they didn't look amazing or anything. I noticed a few of them had the odd little bit of hair or dust dried into them. I just want to make sure that the paint doesnt start to peel off or have a bad reaction with the graphics and clear coat going on top of the primer and top coat layers.

[Les Paul Lover]

Sanding the enclosure before to spray on primer is recommended - it will remove all non noticeable oxydation that could makeyour paint work flake a few years on.

That sanding can be done with any fine grade, from 180 to 400, and it really doesn't take very long, not even 5mns per box, more like 1 or 2 mns if you're doing more than 1 box at a time.

mc cormick tools has a good range of acrylic paints, primer and clear coat lacquers quite cheap.

http://mccormicktools.co.uk/hycote-spray-paint-touch-up-sticks/hycote-spray-paint/hycote-colour-match-double-acrylic-spray-paint.html

They also have a really good selection of small colour cans pretty cheap, 150ml, that are enough for one box - if you dont make mistakes!!!!
If you give you primed box a light sand, it will make your top coats smoother too. I've not been using waterslides though, hand painting & stencils so far.

My finish haven't been otally flat, but plenty good enough for my own use.
By the way, defo dont sand metallic paint - you will kill the nice shiny effect.
Sanding plain colour up to 2000 grit is a good idea though, it will make the lacquer flater still - and the lacquer melts all traces of sanding too.

Some pics of what i've done:

[karbomusic]

I'd just read a few other threads that said you need to sand, and if you don't sand you'd really need etching primer as it wont stick properly and will come off over time. That worries me!  

FWIW I did a handful of boxes at first without etching but regular primer and cleaning/sanding till the cow's come home didn't make it much better.  Switched to sanding + etching primer and it made a big difference YMMV.

[bluebunny]

mc cormick tools has a good range of acrylic paints, primer and clear coat lacquers quite cheap.

Useful link - thanks.

[deadastronaut]

poundland, ...not for primer (which is rubbish) , but they do a good white and matt/gloss black..in cans

ive used it on a few things, cheap as...surprisingly good too.