Guild Foxey Lady 2 Knob Project (Not for the Weak)

[bloxstompboxes]

Well, I thought I would try using Eagle for the first time and wanted a simple schematic to try out. I already have a Fuzz Face and a Tonebender but not a Guild 2 Knob Foxey Lady. I am not a fuzz fanatic which might be because I only have a solid state amp. I understand they are much better with a tube amp. But I thought what the heck. I didn't realize that the pads and traces would be so small and at first, I thought, holy crap! Then I thought, why not? I was recently just recertified for IPC-7711/IPC-7721 through my company so I knew I could do it even without my Sciencecope from work. I even used a chisel tip on my Weller. If you are feeling adventurous and daring, give this a try and let me know what you guys think.

R. G., I have read your book and usually follow all the rules but I though the symmetry of this one looked very good without the flow going left to right. It just kind of wound up going from bottom to top. Lol. Thanks for all your help, even though you didn't know you were helping me.

The layout is verified but I am not sure I will box this one up just yet. Might wait until I get a tube amp. Anyone who builds this, please let me know what you think. All criticisms, politely given anyway, are welcome! BTW, this layout should be printed out in 300dpi. Here is a link to the PDF of the mask: http://www.filedropper.com/guildfoxeylady2knobeaglemask Print it out as normal, lol.

NOTE: The image of the mask below is very misleading. The board is about 1 5/8in by 1 3/8in. If you have trouble scaling the image right, use the PDF. it's right.

[PRR]

> usually follow all the rules but I though the symmetry of this one looked very good without the flow going left to right. It just kind of wound up going from bottom to top.

If you turn it 90 degrees, isn't it left to right?

Sometimes the thought-problems do come better if you stand to the side of the drawing board.

On the schematic--

* R6 shows "476" but maybe is 47K?

* R5 and R6 have no power connection, which I would expect?

A hasty guess says that Q2 is "bottomed", collector voltage nearly the same as emitter voltage. Is that correct? It can work, with great violence to the signal (which is of course what you want).

[bloxstompboxes]

I did have it 90 degrees the other way but my pots were gonna be placed on the side of the board instead of the top, so I rotated it.

R6 should be 47k as shown in the BOM.

Son of a b*tch. I can't believe I didn't connect the power to R5 and R6 in the schematic!. I drew it in DIYLC first and I did connect it there. A a little jumper from one pad to another would fix the missing power connection. Crap. I may try this out this weekend and see what the sound difference is.

For now, lets say I came up with a new design, lol. If anyone does build this as is, let me know what you think.

[bloxstompboxes]

Ok, here are the corrections thus far. I updated the schematic for the 9V line to R5 and R6 as well as the value for R6. If anyone already, which I doubt, etched the previous mask, a little solder bridge from the reverse polarity 1N4001 diode to R6 would fix the problem. I did build and test the first layout and it worked, but having never heard the original pedal before I didn't know it was wrong, lol. I'll try this real quick with a solder bridge and see what the difference in sound is. The new PDF: http://www.filedropper.com/guildfoxeylady2knobeaglemask_1

And the new images:






You may want to have an exacto knife handy since these traces, pads, and pour are very close together. I had about 3 shorts found before first applying power. Then everything was ok, except for the errors PRR found. Once again, let me what you guys think. And thanks PRR for the help!!!

[mth5044]

You might want to use the junction tool for your schematics. Not just for others to see (as it's hard to tell if something connects or jumps over), but depending on how you do the connections, the ERC tool will give you a hard time.

[bloxstompboxes]

You might want to use the junction tool for your schematics. Not just for others to see (as it's hard to tell if something connects or jumps over), but depending on how you do the connections, the ERC tool will give you a hard time.

Yeah, I did that on another schem I drew later since it was giving me trouble like you said. It was harder to read too since it had a lot of overlaps. I didn't have any in this one though. I also just tried bridging the 9V to R6 like I stated above and couldn't tell much difference.

[LucifersTrip]

I think the Foxey Lady is one of the most underrated fuzzes. It's cool how much difference there is by distorting the "clean" blend part of a FuzzRite.

The only recommendation I can make is to use lower gains than the 5088's. Most of my 5133's I've had have hfe < 200. With higher gain ones it'll
sound more trebly and harsh....You could easily build this with 100 hfe Q's.

http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/schematics/foxeylady2k.gif

[bloxstompboxes]

That site is exactly where I found the circuit to start with, Trip. I can't remember why I chose 5088's. 3904's probably would have worked just as well. I know I don't have any 5133's.

[LucifersTrip]

It'll be cool whatever you use...Though, there's a bunch of lower hfe transistors that are very common if you ever need em.
These have worked out well in numerous FuzzRites & variants

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=2N5550+NPN+TRANSISTOR+160V+600mA
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/2sc1815-c1815-transistor-npn-50v-0-15a.html

[Mark Hammer]

Just stick a 1k trimmer in series with C2 and adjust gain of Q1 to taste.