Odd LED problem (slowly turns on when effect is off) in linked effects..

Started by Hav, September 28, 2014, 11:33:32 AM

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Hav

Hey guys

Had another post about linking two effects together. This is one I have finished, and as you can see in the video, the first effect LED just keeps turning on slowly...

The effects work fine even when the LED does this...

Any ideas on what this could be ?

Link: http://youtu.be/5cITEjRxVQ4

Thanks

GibsonGM

Totally weird.  Reminds me of the way a cap discharges after you take the power away (in DC).    Re-check your wiring, Hav....something isn't wired right.   Somehow you have a 'charging voltage' bleeding into your LED line.    Switch COULD be messed up, I suppose, or there is a short somewhere.
 
Is that all that's on those switch poles?  (The LED, I mean). 
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Hav

No, its just on the one switch, the other LED is working fine.

I have checked everything, no shorts. I also think its a dodgy switch. Any way I can test it?

GibsonGM

Well, you could just remove it, put an LED and resistor on it to a 9V battery...but wow - that is VERY odd behavior for a switch....you're not turning a power supply on/off as you engage/disengage the switch, possibly??   

I've seen things do this if you kill power/restore it, and it has caused me confusion in the past just like you are having.    I would at least check the power supply as you switch, just out of curiosity, to see what it is doing at the time.   But yes, do test the switch.
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Hav

im not turning power supply on / off, but it is linked to another effect... although even when that is not engaged this LED still turns on.. as you can see in the video.. :-s

I will try another switch (using millenium bypass from here: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/pcb-dpdt-daughter-board-with-millenium.html

so it should be too difficult to just swap them out. when I tested the effects separately (before linking together) the LEDs were fine, but then I tested it on a pre wired 3DPDT...

oh boy.. this feels like a long one.

bloxstompboxes

Quote from: Hav on September 28, 2014, 02:15:08 PMoh boy.. this feels like a long one.

Must....not...say...bad...joke....can't....hold.....back....... THAT"S WHAT SHE SAID!!!!!!!!!

Oh, thank God I got that out.

Floor-mat at the front entrance to my former place of employment. Oh... the irony.

slacker

What is the effect? If you're using millenium bypass it needs to have either a volume pot or a resistor to ground after the output cap, does it have either of those?  Without them the millenium could do what you're seeing.

Hav

Quote from: bloxstompboxes on September 28, 2014, 02:30:10 PM
Quote from: Hav on September 28, 2014, 02:15:08 PMoh boy.. this feels like a long one.

Must....not...say...bad...joke....can't....hold.....back....... THAT"S WHAT SHE SAID!!!!!!!!!

Oh, thank God I got that out.

LOL!!

I'm using the diagram in the above link. I believe it does have what you say. It's a Brian May Booster > Tubescreamer both from general guitar gadgets..!

GibsonGM

Quote from: slacker on September 28, 2014, 02:40:53 PM
What is the effect? If you're using millenium bypass it needs to have either a volume pot or a resistor to ground after the output cap, does it have either of those?  Without them the millenium could do what you're seeing.

+1   some kind of voltage bleed, that's the only answer. 
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slacker

According to the GGG schematic the Brian May hasn't got a resistor to ground after the output cap, that's your problem. On their layout there's a spare pad after C2 you can use, solder 1 end of a 1 meg resistor to there and the other end to one of the ground pads on the right. That should sort it out.
If you've already added a resistor check/resolder all the connections between the output cap and the millenium.

Hav

ah.. thats great, I will give this a try and hope that this is the solution! Will reply here with update if this is the case!

:-)


Hav

Quote from: slacker on September 29, 2014, 07:44:15 AM
According to the GGG schematic the Brian May hasn't got a resistor to ground after the output cap, that's your problem. On their layout there's a spare pad after C2 you can use, solder 1 end of a 1 meg resistor to there and the other end to one of the ground pads on the right. That should sort it out.
If you've already added a resistor check/resolder all the connections between the output cap and the millenium.

Yo! this totally worked! cheers man!

:-)

GibsonGM

:)  Good eye Slacker! I didn't look at the schematic (lazy!).   
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