cheap printer for PCB resist

[rring]

Just got a Samsung Xpress M2020W laser printer from amazon. It is only $60.00 and works really well for putting resist on PCB's. I used the high quality and 100% contrast setting and got thick, even and well adhering resist.

I use HP 120g presentation paper and an Apache AL13P laminator. I have tried a number of printers and most have been duds - so I was happy to find this one.

Here is a picture of the resist before etching( the white coating comes from the paper when you peel it off)

[thelonious]

Thanks for this lead---my old laser printer just died and I was wondering what to get next. Will definitely check this one out.

[John Lyons]

Thanks for posting Ray. My older Samsung is ok now but I have to baby it.
I'm always worried about finding a replacement that does the job.

[chicago_mike]

I picked up the Minolta 1650en and am liking it.


I tried glossy brochure paper, also from HP I think, its thin, glossy on both sides and you get 150 to a pack. That paper works very well too. =)

[rring]

Konika/Minolta printers work well - the one I use at my office was unrivaled until I tried this Samsung - which is just as good on the PCBs. The only other comment I would make is the  Minolta 1650en is $150 instead of $60.00. Of course,  these printers will be obsolete in a year and everyone will have to start  looking again!

This weekend I am going to give the ultimate test which is etching a Hammond enclosure. These are some that I etched with the Konika(Minolta) printer described above. No other printer has been good enough that I have tried. I think the Samsung will be able to do it.

[Mark Hammer]

VERY nice etched graphics.  I'm impressed.

Do you use the laminator to apply the toner to the boxes as well?  And what do you etch them with?

[rring]

For the boxes. I use a cheapo  iron and of course the good printer..and the HP presentation paper. Mediocre paper and mediocre resist work okay for boards but for the boxes you just get too much pitting..etc.

To prep the box, I use a orbital sander with 220 grit paper and put a shiny but powdery finish on the top- then I clean with an SOS pad. The resist really sticks well to this type of surface finish.

I iron on the resist, mask with tape where I can and then use ferric chloride -just like for the boards - I soak a sponge with ferric chloride and gently wipe across the top back and forth. Occasionally I drool it in the etched areas and let it sit some - then wipe some more. The gentle wiping speeds up etching, eliminates undercutting and you use less solution. I use the sponge method for boards also.


The inlay is Pro-Tec fishing lure paint powder that I impact into the etched areas with a razor blade and then melt in a oven at 375 deg(or use a heat gun  under the enclosure). It take 3 repetitions to fill the etched areas well and you have to clean the surface after each melt ( I use an SOS pad in the sink- takes 30 seconds) to keep residual paint from building up where you don't want it. Also, if you keep the box hot to the touch(but not enough to burn), the paint powder clings to the etched regions better.

The Pro-Tec is nice because it leaves a nice glass like inlay look. At the end you will need to clean off the residual paint and may also want to polish more( again I just use the SOS pad and get a nice finish). In doing this you may scuff the inlay - in which case you just run a heat gun over it and it glosses back up in just a few seconds.

[stringsthings]

I also recently bought a Samsung M2020W to replace my old printer.  It works great for PCB etching and for making laser decals.
I use Pulsar Toner Transfer Paper and laser decal paper from Smallbear.

[rring]

Works great for etching boxes also.....I did this last night