Guitar Pedal Debug ROUS Clone

[rthryhorysak]

 I have recently built a ROUS clone using a vero layout on tagboard. I have built the curciut before for a friend, but for this one I wired it to have 2 gain pots, 1 activated with a foot switch. However, I am getting nothing but a loud hum, and when trying to fix it today, when I plugged it in it seemed to be smoking a bit. I assumed it was something wrong with the ground, but I have checked all of them, I changed the DC jack, cleared any solder bridges, checked the vero to make sure its right, but still nothing but hum. So if some if someone could help I would be so grateful!

[rthryhorysak]

So I looked at it again, and I found that the 100uf electrolytic capacitor from ground was backwards, and that solves the smoke smell. I replaced that, and when the effect is bypassed without power it is fine, but when engaged without power the is still signal. It is just slightly weaker. So I replace the switch with one I know works, but that still hasn't solve the problem

[duck_arse]

I dunno what a rous is. can we have a circuit diagram, or at least a link to, please?

[rthryhorysak]

Sorry, here's a link. There is unfortunately no schematic.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/05/blakemore-effects-rous.html?m=1

[rthryhorysak]

I'll try to get pictures up when I get home, but I never have much luck posting pictures on here.

[rthryhorysak]

IC
1: 8.60
2: 4.63
3: 4.18
4: 0
5: 0.002
6: 4.63
7: 9.29
8: 4.71

Q1
G: 0.008
S: 5.45
D 9.29

[duck_arse]

seems rous means rat of unusual size, so we'll look on this as "a" circuit diagram. (thanks, ggbb)



yer voltages look ok as far as I can see. smoke can often escape from pots that have been miswired, maybe burning the track through. test all pots for being still good all lugs. also test for continuity from in to out jack, and from each jack to the pcb.

what problem do you have with posting images? you find a hosting service (imgur a good choice, dear god not dropbox), upload yr pics, being VERY careful to make good use of their re-sizing options if you've got pics a bit big (pease!), then they give you a link to your pic, you copy that, paste it into the middle of a button press, and then we all look and see your nice solderings.

[rthryhorysak]

Ok the smoke smell  was definitely  the backwards electrolytic capacitor because the smoke smell has stopped. Also I took all the pots out of the curciut leaving only the input, ground and 9v in the curciut, even the output was not connected, I still have the same problem with nothing but hum, and with no power, there is still signal even when pedal is engaged. What do you mean by testing continuity?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Check orientation of D1 

The side with the band should be pointing to the V+ power rail.

[rthryhorysak]

Well the diodes on a dpdt switch

[rthryhorysak]

[duck_arse]

well, we are a little hamstrung by the lack of a circuit diagram, we'll use the rat above as a rough guide only. the rat polarity protection diode is not fitted to the rous layout. when you say you took out the pots, do you mean you disconnected them from the board? that will render the circuit inoperable.

did you by chance test the completed build BEFORE it went into the box? for ALL your builds, no matter how messy the rigg gets, you should always test before box, then you know it works, or you fixx it, but without the box-digging hassle. as a bonus, if you know it works before boxing, then doesn't work in box, you've already done most of the debugging needed.

continuity. a circuit needs to be continous from one end to the other. you need to ascertain the yes or no-ness with your meter set to ohms/continuity setting (always with pedal power off for ohms range measures). a reading of "0" indicates a continous circuit, or a short circuit. so, you measure from the tip of the in jack to the board input, then work the bypass switch. you should have a zero (or very low) reading and a OL/open/very high reading to indicate that the switch is wired right. then do the output socket tip to the middle lug Vol pot. when the input side reads 0, the output jack to pot should also. then test that the input jack sleeve is continuous (I'll get that spelt right sooner or later) with the output jack sleeve at all times, and from sleeve to board ground as well.

then test from board output to vol pot middle, and work the vol pot. the reading should change. then work through ALL THE OTHER pots to baord, and switch to board connections. see what you get, let us know what you find. with the right circuit diagram, this process is easier, that's why we always want to see them. al those extra tone pots don't make it easy..

[rthryhorysak]

Well I don't know what I did, but it's working great now! Thanks for your help!

[duck_arse]

fantastic. fixed just by typing this time.