Silly beginner questions here

[BruceJustice]

Hello, everybody So, recently I ordered many electrical components to finally start learning what I always wanted to learn - building pedals. As I have never ever soldered a thing, I decided to start with something simple but useful at the same time to have a goal. It turned out to be this layout here:
http://www.fuzzface.es/fuzzpedal/especiales/tremolo-vero.jpg

Everything is very clearly shown in this picture and I can't wait to try it. But the thing is, I ordered 3pdt switches instead of dpdt, that have 9 pins instead of 6. The question is, should it be connected differently, or should I just ignore those 3 extra pins and connect as shown in the picture? Also, does the light dependant resistor have to face the led?

Another question is about this picture here:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ROTqWOOijpc/UEtmRvsyDII/AAAAAAAACa0/0ey7NvWKTK0/s1600/lg11.png

If I understand correctly, things like "Drive 2 & 3" or "Tone 1" indicate the pins of potentiometers. Is it true or false? Also, this ground wire here, is it just the wire from the battery clip, or anything else? And shouldn't the ground be also somehow related to the input/output jack sockets?

I would appreciate the answers to these questions so much as I am trying to understand how everything works before I actually start soldering these things. Thanks!

[bluebunny]

That DPDT switch is being used as a power switch for this circuit (it's actually masquerading as a SPST).  It's not being used as a bypass switch, which is how you'd usually be using your 3PDT switches.  So this circuit is "always on" (though you can dial back the depth control).  Yes, the LED and LDR need to face each other.  There's a hint in the BOM: it mentions a "tube".  The intention is that you're "rolling your own" Vactrol.  Make a small light-tight tube and poke the LED in one end and the LDR in the other.  Lots of options how to achieve that (search the forum).

The designations "Drive 2", etc., are indeed pins on a potentiometer.  Most often, if you have the shaft of the pot pointing at you and the pins pointing down, then it's 1-2-3 from left to right.  And all the things that say "ground" (including the black battery lead) should be connected together somewhere - often as a star arrangement at the input jack.

I'd suggest you check out some wiring diagrams for details of how to wire up your board and the jacks and the power supply.  It might become clearer.  Check out places like Beavis, Tonepad or Gaussmarkov.  (I routinely use the famous Tonepad wiring diagrams.)

And welcome. 

[DrAlx]

Just to help you avoid an embarrassing mistake...
It's not always spelled out to a beginner, but vero diagrams show the view from the component side of the board, not the strip side.
i.e. the strips in the diagram are shown as if the board material was transparent.
I know of at least one case where someone built a massive board and fried lots of chips because they misunderstood this convention.

[deadastronaut]

just to clarify, and a heads up...that tremolo is the tiny tremolo i designed a long , long time ago..

it will work ok, but it won't work well with distortions ok. you wont get the choppiness etc...

on its own its fine,

if you want a tremolo that behaves with distortions i would find another project ok.


welcome btw.

[GibsonGM]

Welcome, and just to add...you might choose to save those nice 3PDT switches and grab a cheap single-pole!  Pricey nowadays, there are many uses for them besides just a simple power switch...

[smallbearelec]

There are no silly questions, just silly people who don't ask questions before diving into something completely new. Other residents here have noted that Vero layouts often presume that you know certain things. That's one reason that I don't recommend them for first-builds. This article:

http://diy.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

answers a lot of FAQs, many of which a beginner does not know that he needs to ask in order to avoid "land mines". Breadboard First, and have fun learning.

Regards
SD