Drilling problem - Drill won't go through enclosure

[tacobender]

You should check out harbor tool and freight, they've got a small press for about 50 bucks. Perfect size for drilling enclosures.

[Morocotopo]

Sounds obvious, but make sure your drill is turning the correct way.

First time I tried to drill a box I had exactly the same problem you are describing and then I realised I had the drill set to reverse.

This.

I was drilling some plywood once, and the drill bit wouldn´t go through, I thought "well, more power!" and I insisted at a faster speed and with more pressure, suddenly there was smoke, and carbonized wood. Could have made a barbecue... then I realized the drill was set in reverse. Doh!

I made the barbecue days later.

[blackieNYC]

Please share more details on drilling thru stainless steel of a reasonable thickness. I found these neat little 4" mini mixing bowls, and I just couldn't get thru it.  I have a press (at work), a speed chart, used household oil, and the bits I used went right thru when starting the holes (1/16, maybe 1/8") but the holes would get red hot and not progress when I approached the useful sizes.  I had a variety of bits to chose from, some of which seemed unused.  I must admit I was afraid to use my Irwin step bit, seeing the smoke and all.  I can't imagine it can outperform individual bits.  Perhaps someone has a brand and model of bit that can get thru stainless.  (Some of the holes I was attempting were on a curved surface, which is probably more challenging, but some were on the flat.) thanks

[Ice-9]

Sounds obvious, but make sure your drill is turning the correct way.

First time I tried to drill a box I had exactly the same problem you are describing and then I realised I had the drill set to reverse.

This.

I was drilling some plywood once, and the drill bit wouldn´t go through, I thought "well, more power!" and I insisted at a faster speed and with more pressure, suddenly there was smoke, and carbonized wood. Could have made a barbecue... then I realized the drill was set in reverse. Doh!

I made the barbecue days later.

Then Man discovered fire ! it could be handy knowledge after we have a doomsday war, oh hold on no power for the drill = no fire, unless you keep your battery drill charged up and ready for fire making. Muhahaha, the intelligent will survive.

[PRR]

> keep your battery drill charged up and ready for fire making

Steel wool across the battery live terminals starts fire faster, and saves the motor.

[Ice-9]

> keep your battery drill charged up and ready for fire making

Steel wool across the battery live terminals starts fire faster, and saves the motor.

BOOF, just don't burn your fingers holding the battery terminals. That would be a good question in a quiz actually, What is the easiest way to start a fire if you can't make a flame, Cotton or steel ? As it happens I am well into camping and nature so would survive mankind being reborn and needing to start a fire or two.

Back on topic, a drill bit that will drill one piece of alloy easily but not a different alloy will be down to the composition of the alloy, more importantly the drill bits will be rubbish and just up to the job of the soft alloy while the slightly harder and probably zinc alloy is too much for the drill bit. The cost of a quality set of cobalt drill bits far out ways the cost of buying rubbish cheap HSS bits every other hole. A sharp drill is accurate, a blunt drill makes a mess.

[duck_arse]

I have to say the 2 cobalt drills I bought also make a mess, because they have the funny, step-cut face, which seems to clog far too often, especially when drilling Al. then the bit is pointless or lopsided, and stevie's holes go all wrong.

[mac]

I've been recycling bits for years, I have bits that survived many houses I built

*** DON'T DO THIS AT HOME (YOU DID NOT HEAR IT FROM ME) ***
A stonemason taught me how to do it with an angle grinder and a carbide disc.
The angle is the key. And the speed, turn the machine on for a fraction of a second and gently press the bit on the disc.
Not for the faint-hearted and those who have Parkinson disease
You can use a Dremel too. Easier and safer.

mac

[blackieNYC]

Regarding stainless steel, we've got one answer of cobalt bits, and one remark against the cobalt, specifically with that angled face or bevel.  so, does anyone have a brand/model of cobalt bits that will make it thru steel? (Again, these are mini salad mixing bowl - probably the thickness of a hammond enclosure.) I'd hate to let this thread get by without learning how to put nice holes in stainless. Without a firearm.  For now.

[davent]

The ss i was drilling was a double toggle switch wall plate i needed to adapt to accomodate a single toggle and a modern style rocker switch, available in plastic/nylon but not ss. Bolted the appropriate plastic one to the ss and with a hex-shanked centering  bit (5/64") and the rocker switch mounting holes in the plastic plate as a guide, drilled through the ss using kerosene as cutting fluid, (have heard mineral spirits works well), no problems. Traced the switch hole outline onto the ss plate Dremeled the hole with a reinforced cutoff wheel, again not much of problem. Two hours of filing to refine the hole for the switch itself, slow slog there. The mounting holes only had to be opened up enough for #6 screws so again easy steps from 5/64" to final size.

SS plate is 35mil thick.

Check out sites where people are drilling big holes in stainless steel sinks, they're using step bits for that, very slow turning step bits, doesn't appear to be too difficult.

For drilling into a curve surface a great center punch dimple would be imperative and a means to solidly secure the bowl to the drill press table so the to-be-drilled face is perpendicular to the drill bit.
Lee Valley bits.

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

I bought a couple of sets of cheap ones (plated and all), the unibit is way better. Something to do with the exact geometry of the cutter area. I had to learn how to sharpen them, which is possible.
However I would've rather spend $20 on a good step bit (the one that goes to 1/2") it covers most of your pedal needs.

[duck_arse]

the last time I drilled a salad bowl, I used an electric hand drill and hss bits. and files and a reamer. I also shaped a hunk a wood to about the internal radius of the bowl, and clamped that to the bench so I could hang the doings over the edge and have a something to push the drill against.

mounting pots and jax on a curved surface is a different topic again.

those lee valley bits, something I've never seen before, once again prove that there is already a proper tool to do anything you can think of.

[blackieNYC]

Lee Valley looks promising.  So many different types - can I ask for further detail on the bits you recommend?
I got my starter holes thru the curved part, angling the thing on a block rather than tilting the drill press.  I imagine most holes get more challenging as you go to larger bit sizes. And, yes, the curve is going to add to my struggle a little, 1/2" bit is a lot of surface area of contact.

[head_spaz]

Center-Drills are the absolute best.
Cleanest holes and work well on stainless.
Can be purchased at MSC, McMaster Carr... etc.
Fairly expensive, but they last forever if you take care of them.

[Ice-9]

+1 ^ I use these all the time for pilot holes.

[davent]

Lee Valley looks promising.  So many different types - can I ask for further detail on the bits you recommend?
I got my starter holes thru the curved part, angling the thing on a block rather than tilting the drill press.  I imagine most holes get more challenging as you go to larger bit sizes. And, yes, the curve is going to add to my struggle a little, 1/2" bit is a lot of surface area of contact.

The Lee Valley bit i use simply to accurately transfer the holes from one switch plate another that doesn't have them. The lower barrel centers the bit in the template hole and receeds into the upper barrel as the drill is advenced.

The holes are then stepped up to the final size with regular twist bits. to go to 1/2" i'd go with a good stepbit, the one i use has 1/32" steps so is never remocing very much material. Drilling a Hammond enclosure i can drill with it and not secure the enclosure at all once the drill has started.

Stacked switch plates.