lpb1 turret board style help

[LightSoundGeometry]

not sure whats going on but its squealing/putting off a loud hiss/high pitch frequency



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spYcVltocOU

[Brisance]

Does it do that with a battery? In any case put filter caps on supply.

[GibsonGM]

Does it do that with a battery? In any case put filter caps on supply.

Good call, x1000.   That, plus soldering your components in correctly, will probably go a long way.  The fact it changes when you touch that turret says something - solder better.  The HF oscillation is not normal; LPB-1 is 'medium hiss', not oscillation-prone.

I know when you're done, you'll have the transistor set up with short leads and on the board right    

[LightSoundGeometry]

yes, it was just mechanical to see if it worked first ..as that is a 7 dollar germanium transistor

where wouold the filter go ? from input draining to ground?

[LightSoundGeometry]

http://www.electro-labs.com/bypass-capacitors-why-and-how-to-use-them/

So I go from the Vcc to ground..the Vcc is just coming from my power supply ? is it an electro and polarized +/_ going a certain way ?

so when I look at pictures of a hand wired p2p guitar pedal and see the elctro cap on the DC power jack ..this is the power filter?

[Kipper4]

Is it a pnp germanium version?
Only normally the LPB1 is NPN jelly bean transistor (2n5088 etc)
I think the guys are saying put a power smoothing cap across the supply rails say 100uf +side to +9v
and the banded side to Gnd.
Also boxing up might help because your unboxed circuit is prone to RF interferance. Stick an empty enclosure over the top (careful not to short anything ) and see if the hiss goes.

[LightSoundGeometry]

Is it a pnp germanium version?
Only normally the LPB1 is NPN jelly bean transistor (2n5088 etc)
I think the guys are saying put a power smoothing cap across the supply rails say 100uf +side to +9v
and the banded side to Gnd.
Also boxing up might help because your unboxed circuit is prone to RF interferance. Stick an empty enclosure over the top (careful not to short anything ) and see if the hiss goes.

its a NPN germanium OC140 ..it has the same Hfe range as the bc109 and 2n5088 and the guys on here told me leakage doesnt matter , so I used it.  the turret has the oc140 and the perf has the bc109 - I cant tell a difference except visually. the germanium sounds smoother if anything but could be psychological

will do, I appreciate all the feedback from you guys

brisance, I dont have any battery snaps and never tried to wire a batt and a dc input off board ..is that easy to do? I think I tried it once when I first started and it didnt work so I stopped trying to have a battery and a power supply..maybe I need to go back and learn how to do that .

[Kipper4]

for battery snap and wall wart see below link

"Wiring the battery"

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower/

A  Smoothing capacitor is for smooting out ripple from the power supply. Yes use an electrolytic capacitor.
Anode to V+ , cathode (the side with a line down it) to V-

this may help

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=110102.0

[LightSoundGeometry]

I put a capacitor everywhere , and enclosed it ..works on clean channel but insane squeal on dirty ,,may have to try a once perm solder job and if that dont work scrap it

[samhay]

A power filter cap often works much better with a little resistance to work against - try a 47R or 100R in series wth your power supply - i.e. to V+ and then a large capacitor on the circuit side of this to ground - like R1 and C1 here: http://beavisaudio.com/projects/Huminator/index.htm

[karbomusic]

like R1 and C1 here: http://beavisaudio.com/projects/Huminator/index.htm

Newb question.... Considering polarity reversal protection, would there be any advantage of placing the 100r before the diode in that diagram?

[LightSoundGeometry]

A power filter cap often works much better with a little resistance to work against - try a 47R or 100R in series wth your power supply - i.e. to V+ and then a large capacitor on the circuit side of this to ground - like R1 and C1 here: http://beavisaudio.com/projects/Huminator/index.htm

it was Beavis which I was reading but I hadnt tried a R1 with the C yet. will give it a try

and a bc108 will not work in this circuit lol

[samhay]

>Newb question.... Considering polarity reversal protection, would there be any advantage of placing the 100r before the diode in that diagram?

If you try to drop 9V across a 100R resistor (e.g. if you put the resistor on the DC jack-side of the diode and then reverse the voltage) then you will need to dissipate about 0.8W. We use 1/4W resistors mostly, so the resistor will die rather quickly. If you use a 1W+ resistor then it may keep the power supply from dying under a continuous polarity reversal fault.

[karbomusic]

>Newb question.... Considering polarity reversal protection, would there be any advantage of placing the 100r before the diode in that diagram?

If you try to drop 9V across a 100R resistor (e.g. if you put the resistor on the DC jack-side of the diode and then reverse the voltage) then you will need to dissipate about 0.8W. We use 1/4W resistors mostly, so the resistor will die rather quickly. If you use a 1W+ resistor then it may keep the power supply from dying under a continuous polarity reversal fault.

Ah, so looks like my idea ends up sacrificing the resistor in an attempt to protect the diode. Thanks.