first layout: fuzz

Started by Jmsteele187, May 26, 2015, 03:00:47 PM

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Jmsteele187

I've made my first layout, for my take on a fuzz face.  I was hoping some of you would take a look and see if you can spot any issues.  I know the wiring in the layout is pretty terrible.  I'm more concerned about the vero layout it's self.  I was also curious if I have the bass control wired correctly.  Thanks in advance.
http://postimg.org/image/64zftxcf7/

mth5044


Jmsteele187

I didn't really have one to go off of.  I found a vero layout using axial caps.  I went off of that to breadboard the circuit, and make my modifications.  Then I tried to convert the layout to use standard radial caps (because that's what I have on hand), and add in my mods.

Cozybuilder

#3
This is what I'm seeing on the vero layout



I think you could simplify the switching:
for SW1, wire the 2 caps in series, use a SPDT (ignore the SPST on drawing), center to the cap junction, switch ends at cap ends, and add a pulldown resistor at the input- like this:



For the second toggle, same idea, resistors in series, short out the 1K for 330 ohm, short out the 330R for 1K, and center position will give you 1.3K for 3 settings.
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

Jmsteele187

For the switch with the 330R and 1k resistors, I was thinking of using a foot switch.

Cozybuilder

#5
You could do that- it will change the bias of Q2- that might be fine.

Another possibility is to run another resistor, say 1K, in series between the fixed from V+ and the bias pot, and take an output off of each end of it. Those 2 locations will give you a normal volume out, and a boosted one, using a footswitch. The bias will not change, nor will the tone etc. I used this concept in my "Free Boost Fuzz", taking it one step further using a pot with the wiper out as the "Boost".

Choose your fixed resistor ( I like 1K2), add a 1K or 2K pot in series to your bias pot, set your bias at about 4.5 V with the bias pot, measure the required R and stick a fixed resistor there. With the normal out, set up the sound how you want it, then select the boost (wiper) and you can add as much extra volume as the boost pot allows without changing any settings- great for solos.



To be perfectly clear, this is the circuit snippet for the "boost" setup

Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

duck_arse

Quote from: Jmsteele187 on May 26, 2015, 03:00:47 PM
Thanks in advance.
http://postimg.org/image/64zftxcf7/

jm - crop that sucker! you can edit the project size in diylc by right clicking, it's down the bottom of the pop-up.

so you found a hosting site ok?
You hold the small basket while I strain the gnat.

Jmsteele187


[/quote]

so you found a hosting site ok?
[/quote]
Yes, postimage.org worked great.  Thank you, guys, for looking over the layout.  Other than simplifying some of the switching, does anyone see any other issues?  I'd like to get this put together this week.

Cozybuilder

How does it sound to you? If you like it, then box it
(and post pix :icon_biggrin: )
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

Jmsteele187

On the breadboard it sounds like a silicon fuzz face with some cool mods.  Just like I was looking for.  I'm happy with the circuit the way it is.  I'm just worried that my first vero layout might have a mistake someplace.

Cozybuilder

Verify if the schematic I drew up is what is actually on the breadboard, and double check if the schematic matches up with your vero layout. If so, go for it. First builds can be traumatic, the good thing is you're almost there.
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

Jmsteele187

I know it's been a while for this post, but I've had some other ideas for this project.  Some of the mods on this circuit I found a bit lackluster.  I thought to myself, how can I make some of them better, like the boost mod.  Just changing the resistor did boost the signal, but not like I would want.  So I thought, what if I run a booster in front of it, or even after the fuzz.  Then I thought, would it be possible to make the placement in the chain switchable.  If its possible, I'd like to breadboard it, and check it out.  I'm not sure how to accomplish it, though. Also, if I add in a boost, how do I make it foot switchable?  Thanks.

GibsonGM

You could build a simple transistor boost, if you like.  Try the LPB2-1, for something to tinker with.  I'd place it AFTER the fuzz, unless you want to pound the fuzz's front end and make it insanely dirty, LOL.   Try it both ways.  Basically, it's another pedal, so it's a building block you can try with other things.   Totally mod-able.

I use the AMZ Mosfet boost for many such things, which is a 'more clean boost' than the LPB-1. 

If you like the sound after, you can wire it in on a switch!  You simply make 2 effects in one box.   Search for "2-in-1 wiring".

If you just want to tack something like that into an existing design, you still need a DPDT switch to put it in/remove it - easier , IMO, to just treat it like a 2nd effect in the box and use a slightly larger enclosure.   
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mth5044

Check this out for an effects switcher if you decide that you can't decide on the order. You can replace the jacks by hardwiring them to the connections of the two circuits. LED's aren't necessary to make the order switcher work, but it might be hard to tell the different between the order of the two.

Don't forget that you'll need three switches now. Order, fuzz and boost. Having the boost on a toggle could be a real space saver. Personally, I'd stick a RangeMaster in there in a heartbeat.