I thought I had the no popping thing down.. but..

[acehobojoe]

Here's my latest schematic for a boost with a little bit of a mod on it. That is what SW2 is for SW1 is going to the output so it basically acts like a buffered bypass pedal. The only difference in my actual pedal from this schematic is that I have tied the GND of the 1uF and 22n together to be switched off of GND when the pedal is clicked off. I've done this so you don't lose the guitar signal via the 1uF tied from the source to GND if the switch for the mod is engaged.

Whenever I switch it on to boost mode, it definitely has quite a POP! it's just kind of low at maybe 80-100Hz. I've tried out a few things. Tried a 1M across switch lugs from all of the switches.. nothing, Tried putting a 33k resistor to ground after that 22nF at the boost side, it kind of loses some of the high end of the pop, but there's still that low pop.

When I look at the DC voltage, both the boost and the buffer output show around .01v of DC when clicked. It is only noticeable when you have the volume higher, but i'd like to see if I can make it completely stop.

[Keppy]

Have you tried a 1M or so resistor specifically from lugs 1-2 of SW2? If those caps manage to collect any DC when the switch is off, then dumping it all of a sudden to ground could create an audible pop. 10mV is not small compared to a guitar signal.

Also, this will ALWAYS pop if you switch it while playing. There will be an instantaneous jump from the signal voltage of one output to the other (though that's not really different than any true bypass pedal).

Why not leave the 22n connected to ground full time?

[acehobojoe]

I can do that with the 22n, but not the 1 uF. Let me try that.

[Cozybuilder]

What if you put a high value resistor to ground at Sw2 lug 3, say 1M or so, rather than leave the cap ends floating when they are lifted from ground?

[acehobojoe]

That's gotta be it!

[acehobojoe]

I pretty much put the 1m resistors everywhere to no avail. I guess it just comes with any volume boost

[armdnrdy]

Boy..you give up too easily!

I'm sure glad you didn't invent the parachute! Well....only about 3/4 of them open up...I guess that's just the way it is with parachutes. 

Keep trying things...you'll get it!

[Cozybuilder]

Maybe connect the R and caps to pin1 (or 3), the other end of R to ground, and ground on pin 2 so you're shorting the resistor, in one position, open in the other. The cap is always referenced to ground though.

[acehobojoe]

Which cap?

[Cozybuilder]

C6 and C7 to Sw2-1, 1M ground to Sw2-1, Sw2-2 to ground.

[acehobojoe]

Ok, put c6 and c7 to the gnd with 1m, that's done. Lug one 1m to gnd? i guess I need to do that because of the 3pdt,

Is that right?

[Cozybuilder]

Sometimes a sketch is a lot clearer:

[acehobojoe]

Well, this is what I have:

Basically the same thing, but she still pops! I may have to do the clamp thing where it fades in when you turn it on.

[Cozybuilder]

If I'm reading this correctly, the 3PDT connects ground to pin 1 of Sw2 when the effect is on, and removes it when the effect is off. When on, Sw2 can either short the 1M or not, effectively lifting the two caps or leaving them in. I don't see where this is going to cause a pop since the 2 caps will each have a path to ground at all times. Maybe there is another source of capacitance that is contributing?

Another thing, I am assuming the LED (D2) is the status indicator. I don't see a load resistor for it, and why do you have it connected to the filtered side of the supply? It is needlessly adding to the voltage drop across R5, you could (should) connect it to the raw supply side of R5. Maybe the click is related to this?

[acehobojoe]

I'll try that! The LED has a built in load resistor. That makes sense.

[acehobojoe]

Got it. That was it. Thank you! I may make this circuit available to people if they want a cool boost that gets brighter as you turn the knob

[Cozybuilder]

Great news, always happy when a problem like that gets solved. I've been kind of on a distortion tear lately, heres another one to breadboard now.