Ibanez CP 830 not working

Started by Ghost Planet, August 04, 2015, 07:20:14 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Ghost Planet

A guy from my church gave a script logo Ibanez CP 830. He said it was laying around in his garage. When I opened it the battery was a brick of rust. I took it apart and cleaned all the jacks and battery snap, but it does not work. It will pass bypassed signal, the pots are good, and the circuit is receiving current. When I touch on the board on the tracks I do get buzzing. An ideas on what could be wrong? Thanks.

mth5044

Check out the debugging page stickies at the top of this forum.

Two things that are always good places to start is to check coltages on all active components (IC's, transistors, etc), and use a signal probe to find out where you signal is stopping.

Ghost Planet

All the transistors and IC are receiving voltage. Could it be the optocoupler?

mth5044

Receiving voltage is not the same as recieving the correct voltage. It could be the optocoupler, it could be anything! Check out the debugging page. Use a signal probe to find out where your signal is stopping. We could speculate all day, randomly, but with some data, tracking down the problem becomes easier.

Ghost Planet


Govmnt_Lacky

#5
Some good pics of a block logo unit here. Should be just about identical to what you have:

http://www.tonehome.de/ibanez-effects/narrow-box-series-w-round-switch/cp-830-compressor/

EDIT: Link also has a factory schematic. IF it is a bad optocoupler, the original specs were 150 ohm on/1M off
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Ghost Planet

Thank you so much for the pics and the schematic. Im going to probe the circuit soon, the schematic will be a great help.

Tony Forestiere

Thanks for the link, Greg. Looks like a very low parts count.
"Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together." Carl Zwanzig
"Whoso neglects learning in his youth, loses the past and is dead for the future." Euripides
"Friends don't let friends use Windows." Me

Rob Strand

It should be easy to get working.

The schematic is good.  Some units have the detector circuit TR1, TR2, TR3 connected to the Vcc/2 point (ie. C16 + terminal).  I've seen VR1 = 560R *resistor* not 22k.

To me, the problem is around the opamp/amplifier not the detector.

The first thing to check is the DC voltages at the Vcc/2 point and at the output of the opamp.
You might have faulty electrolytic caps in one of the positions C16, C2, C1 or elsewhere

Even if the LDR was short for some reason it should at least pass a clean signal; all be it a little low in level.  If you lift the resistor R14  the unit should function as a booster and the sustain pot will control the gain.






Send:     . .- .-. - .... / - --- / --. --- .-. -
According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.