couple beiginner questions about veroboard layouts

[plexi12000]

i'd like to try a veroboard build.  couple simple ?'s.............

the "dot inside the square" symbol means you cut the conductor at that spot?

the circuit i'm looking at has a few "links"......one link is across five rows of conductor.  so, do i link ALL five.....or just the two rows at the END of the link? -hope that

makes sense! lol

What's the best way to cut the conductor? utility knife?   Thanks!!

[Digger1770]

the "dot inside the square" symbol means you cut the conductor at that spot?

Yes

just the two rows at the END of the link

Yes
I used a drill bit to drill out and cut the conductor and test with a multimeter to make sure there is no connection.
Good luck with it, take your time, clean the iron tip often,  test cuts and links, clean with circuit board cleaner when done to remove flux residue, and have fun.
Cheers Dave

[mcknib]

Everything Dave said + clean the vero copper side before you start with a light sanding and some nail varnish remover (acetone) and get it nice and shiny and free of any oxidisation, grime etc.

Also remember solder spreads pretty easily on vero so I run my solder up the component leg when melting it to try to stop getting blobs of solder dabbing it quickly on the joint in an upwards direction.

It's a wee bit different from PCB soldering because you don't have the masking etc so as soon as you heat the copper it flows pretty rapid. So don't worry if you get a bigger than expected flow everything on each track should be connected and the grooves between each track should stop any solder bridges if not run an exacto blade through the track to break it.

and maybe have a little practice soldering on it.

[smallbearelec]

What's the best way to cut the conductor?

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/scoring-tool-for-vero-and-stripboard/

[mth5044]

I can't believe there's a tool for that! Interesting.

A few twists from a drill bit a little larger than the track works.

[Tightpants]

I agree with all the comments above. Also I find that it is quite easy to unwittingly bridge tracks with excess solder and I have made good use of a solder pump/solder sucker over the years.
These are cheap and work pretty well:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003YT2F4I/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002MJMXD4&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1X8F9BPN0SSJTA48Z6CF

[duck_arse]

the "circle in a square" is not a universal cut symbol, it's just the one that diylc uses. also make sure to watch for those naughty no-rules layouts that have two link-ends in the one hole, instead of two seperate links.

the original vero-made spot face cutter tool was called a .... well, you know what it was called by now. a knife is a bad tool here, you'll slip, swear, cry, bleed. a ~3.5mm twist-drill in a wooden handle will serve you well.

good luck with the vero.

[plexi12000]

thank you all---very much for the input!    anyone have a favorite place to buy vero from?  or one place as good as another?

fantastic tool, smallbear elec!!!   thanks for the heads up.

[smallbearelec]

The material in the store on this Forum

http://www.diystompboxes.com/cart/

is excellent. I know, because I get it made and sell it to Aron at a good wholesale so that he can see some return for his time managing the site.

[plexi12000]

thank you smallbear-  thats a good looking board.  even has holes for standoffs.  -i'm assuming thats what they're for?

[smallbearelec]

holes for standoffs.  -i'm assuming thats what they're for?

Correct!

[plexi12000]

great!  thanks smallbear!