Joyo PXL Live switches

[Televolt]

Hellow guys.

Im having some "pop" noises when i change the presets of my PXL Live and i think this is because of the type of footswitch they use, those "click" push button. Im thinking about changing them for those soft touch switcher some pedals like line6 use.
Does anyone one now what switcher the PXL Live uses and which soft switch i have to buy to make what i want?

Thank you.

[mth5044]

Never heard of the pedal. Opening it up and seeing if they are momentary or not will be your first quest!

[Hatredman]

I don't think it's the footswitches because no audio signal passes through them, if the sitching is made the way I think it is. The problem must be in the loop circuit (I guess the PXL uses digital switches instead of electromecanical relays, but they can pop too if not properly decoupled).

[Televolt]

I see... Is there anything i can make to try to stop the pops?

[Mark Hammer]

If you are using it to bypass/switch any pedals that normally use FET-switching for their own bypass, then you will likely experience popping.  This is true whether you are using relays or true-bypass stomp switches.

The problem is that, in order to reduce loading down of the inputs, pedals that use FET-switching will generally omit a terminating resistor on the input.  You get a "thunk" when you first plug into them, but after that, since the electronic switching happens within the effect circuit and not around it, you can turn it on and off after that without getting any popping from an unterminated input resistor.

HOWEVER...

If you surround that same pedal with true-bypass switching - whether relay-based or stomp-switch - then every time you go to bypass it with the relay, it's just like plugging into the pedal for the first time.  The input cap finds a path to discharge when connected to a preceding effect, and the sudden drainoff of current is heard as a pop.

The cure: Open up your e-switched pedal, find the hot and ground lugs on the input jack, and solder a 1M-2M2 resistor from hot to ground.  That way, your input cap will always have a path to drain off.  If all your pedals used good old-fashioned SPDT stompswitches, that always left circuit inputs connected, then it would only take a few pedals to seriously load down your signal.  BUt in this case, you have none of that to worry about.

[Televolt]

If you are using it to bypass/switch any pedals that normally use FET-switching for their own bypass, then you will likely experience popping.  This is true whether you are using relays or true-bypass stomp switches.

The problem is that, in order to reduce loading down of the inputs, pedals that use FET-switching will generally omit a terminating resistor on the input.  You get a "thunk" when you first plug into them, but after that, since the electronic switching happens within the effect circuit and not around it, you can turn it on and off after that without getting any popping from an unterminated input resistor.

HOWEVER...

If you surround that same pedal with true-bypass switching - whether relay-based or stomp-switch - then every time you go to bypass it with the relay, it's just like plugging into the pedal for the first time.  The input cap finds a path to discharge when connected to a preceding effect, and the sudden drainoff of current is heard as a pop.

The cure: Open up your e-switched pedal, find the hot and ground lugs on the input jack, and solder a 1M-2M2 resistor from hot to ground.  That way, your input cap will always have a path to drain off.  If all your pedals used good old-fashioned SPDT stompswitches, that always left circuit inputs connected, then it would only take a few pedals to seriously load down your signal.  BUt in this case, you have none of that to worry about.

WOW! Loved the explanation!

So you're saying i have to solder the resistor on of my stomp boxes or on the PXL Live?

[Mark Hammer]

I'd say just put it on the individual pedals.  You don't know if you'll be using any of them forever, and chances are pretty good they will end up being used in conjunction with some sort of true-bypass switching, so this renders them pretty much pop-proof.

Keep in mind that all those Boss, DOD, and Yamaha "classics" came about when a) there were considerably fewer pedal-makers on the scene, b) there were very few pedals out there using true bypass, and c) folks were not using big loop selectors with DPDT relays and such.  So the way they were designed was a very reasonable way to do things, and not at all stupid.

But, the landscape has changed a bit, and what used to be a perfect fit to the landscape now needs a bit of tweaking.  Thankfully, a soldering iron, a small handful of resistors, and generally easy-to-reach locations, remedy things. 

[Televolt]

I'd say just put it on the individual pedals.  You don't know if you'll be using any of them forever, and chances are pretty good they will end up being used in conjunction with some sort of true-bypass switching, so this renders them pretty much pop-proof.

Keep in mind that all those Boss, DOD, and Yamaha "classics" came about when a) there were considerably fewer pedal-makers on the scene, b) there were very few pedals out there using true bypass, and c) folks were not using big loop selectors with DPDT relays and such.  So the way they were designed was a very reasonable way to do things, and not at all stupid.

But, the landscape has changed a bit, and what used to be a perfect fit to the landscape now needs a bit of tweaking.  Thankfully, a soldering iron, a small handful of resistors, and generally easy-to-reach locations, remedy things. 

Thank you Mark!
I will do that.

Here is my pedalboard:

Signal path: digitech drop, fulltone wah, boss tuner (on tuner out of PXL)
In the loops: sp compressor, tube screamer, boss DS-2, BigMuff, Phase90, MXR Chorus, MXR MicroAmp, Line6 DL4.
The 4 last pedals are in the effects loop of the amp.
Oh, by the way, the Phase90 is the pedal that pops the most, when i change to a preset that has it.
On which pedals do you think i should solder the resistor?

[malonerocks.com]

Hi - did you ever have any joy swapping these over?

I have a similar Joyo PXL8 (not the live version) and often play barefoot and the original switches are so firm. I also sometimes get a bit excited changing sounds and don't press hard enough - both reasons to consider swapping them out!

Did you note whether they were momentary, as the one guy suggested checking?

Many thanks, Matt