The "Woody": a cheap acoustic simulator

[Aharon]

Hey,thanks Munky,muito obrigado !!!
I tried but couldn't do it.
Aharon

[Marcos - Munky]

Cool, do you speak portuguese  :lol: . In some minutes, I will post a good news for all of you.

[Aharon]

I can say a few words,mostly bad.
Thanks again for the layout,it's an artform.
How do I print it to make a board tho'?
Thanks
Aharon

[Marcos - Munky]

No problem, you know something. You could try to erase the components in a image software, or ask to someone who knows how to work in Eagle to remove the components for you. Talk with Tomboy, I think he can help you.

[Bill Bergman]

I'm re-drawing it in powerpoint. I'm re-spacing some of the componet pads and a slight re-route of a small section of the circuit.

I was looking thru my chip box and found a RC4136

[Aharon]

I'm re-drawing it in powerpoint. I'm re-spacing some of the componet pads and a slight re-route of a small section of the circuit.

I was looking thru my chip box and found a RC4136

Alright !!!
I bet that chip box is more like a trunk....(lol)


Aharon

[Bill Bergman]

nope, it's actually smaller than a shoe box.

[Gil]

Hey guys,

any layout avaliable ?

[Marcos - Munky]

The layout are available in my site.

[Gil]

Thanks

[Ansil]

In simulating a 12-string, you need to remember that the 3 bass strings have an octave tacked onto them, where the 3 treble strings merely have the same pitch in unison (or is it 4+2, I forget). :oops:

This means that adding an octave shifted version of the same instrument to the basic sound would produce something which does not sound like a 12-string.  Its a lot harder to emulate acoustic instruments than you think!  I have to say that the Woody+chorus surprised me with respect to faking a 12 string.

Of course, if you had a split pickup that could deliver the lower strings to one processor and the higher strings to another, then maybe it could be done,but again, that's trickier and more technology intensive than what you suggested.

Good try, though.

gonig through some of the older posts..  was wondering mark  what if you rolled off the freq response say after the "a" note on the g string.  and then processed the octave up. what do you think about that.

[smoguzbenjamin]

Mmm I was thinking of doing the woody on perf.   I know I know many opf you like PCB's better, but I'm scared of pcb's. Could anyone give me a hand on how to put the ckt on perf?

[Ansil]

i think there was a perflayout.. if i am not mistaken. mark woudl know.

[Ansil]

also use three single coil pickups on at the same time with this.. or atleast the neck pickup and the bridge.. as it will give a great sounding fake acoustic.

[smoguzbenjamin]

Time to open up & rewire my strat copy  :twisted:

[Ansil]

did i ever show you my strat wiring schematic..   it is godlike well if you have hum/single/hum.. you can get like 12-14 different positions without routing or cutting holes in the pickguard.

http://www.geocities.com/cemaynard1134/help.htm

its about halfway down. or you can open a new window and paste this into it.

http://www.geocities.com/cemaynard1134/12guitar.jpg

ti is an evil schematic.

[jimbob]

Mark- did you say you made a pick guard from a material you bought from a model train store? Im rebuilding a junked guitar and needed some ideas where i can get some material cheap--Any other places to check? I dont thing there are model train stores in my area..And you sd it machined up well too? Thats what Im looking for.

[Mark Hammer]

Jimbob,

It's an altogether different thread, but yeah I did.  If you live in or near a locale with a population of at least 40-50,000 people, there HAS to be a "hobby" store nearby.  They may not call it a model train store, but there probably isn't a town or city anywhere *without* people interested in models, RC aircraft,  or model trains, and all those require construction materials, which can usually be had at the hobby store.  If it's an urban centre big enough then you may find a store specializing in model trains specifically, but "hobby store" in the Yellow Pages should find you what you want.

Alternatively, I have also glued a couple of sheets of formica together as well for a pickguard.  It certainly doesn't machine as easily or nicely as the thick plastic I buy at hobby stores or the real stuff used by luthiers, but you can make a decent pickguard from the stuff.  I might alo point out that formica comes in some really interesting patterns, including pearly or marble-looking patterns.  Best of all, the stuff is cheap like borscht.  A sheet that costs me $2.50 at Home Depot is probably good for 6-8 pickguards.  

Ideally, just order a sheet of the real thing from Stewart-McDonald.  They have the multi-layered stuff that provides a nice alternating colour bevelled edge, and also have tortoise shell pattern and creme, which you won't be able to get at any hardware or hobby store.

Count on both the formica and the genuine pickguard material to stink, whether you scrape it, drill it, or sand it.  Use in an easily ventilated area or be prepared to face headaches and social rejection.

You can see an example of a pickguard I made from the hobby store stuff at my site (http://hammer.ampage.org).  Scroll down a bit and there is a link to a picture of a cheap Turser Tele I converted to a "Nashville" Tele.  The pickguard shown was easily and quickly cut from a sheet I bought for $4 or something like that.  The one thing I would caution you about is planning out the pickguard well.  Not all sheets of material (save for the formica option) are able to accommodate any and every sort of pickguard design (e.g., an upper horn to output jack thing that straddles most of the length of the body).

[smoguzbenjamin]

Mark,

Have you got a perfboard layout of the woody somewhere? I saw you made the woody on your site with perf. Mind posting the layout?  

[Mark Hammer]

If I can find the time, sure.  I've been kind of sick the past week and expect to be down for another month (nuthin' serious, just a stupid viral bronchitis of some sort that historically comes every winter and leaves me with about 6 weeks of exhausting hacking).  I wouldn't recommend my layouts to anyone, though.  There is nothing terribly planful about them and they tend to be based around the parts I could buy cheap or cannibalize (including how much lead is left on cap/resistor X) rather than more standard-sized parts that most folks would get.  There is a pcb layout at Munky's page though.