Basic (seriously basic) question - UPDATED WITH DEBUG

Started by jatkin16, February 09, 2016, 06:56:34 AM

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jatkin16

So I've been following the Premier Guitar build your own distortion pedal guide (http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/21291-build-your-own-stompbox?page=1)... Everything worked fine on the breadboard and I have soldered everything up on the perf board (meticulously following instructions), put everything onto the breadboard again (including a LED to indicate power) and it does not seem to work... I'm a complete novice when it comes to things like this; what should I be testing with the multimeter continuity function on the perf board? Thanks in advance.

~arph

Are you using new parts on the breadboard again?
You can fry a transistor when you heat it for too long.

jatkin16

No, I have attached the perfboard to the breadboard.

bluebunny

Welcome!  Read the sticky "DEBUGGING" thread at the top of this forum and report back here.  And take pictures.
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antonis

If I get it wright, you made a perfboard which doesn't work.. :icon_wink:

If yes, you have to be more specific about "what does what & and what doesn't.."
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

jatkin16


jatkin16

So here's my walk-through from the debugging, as I said, complete novice here so I have no real idea; I'm just following a guide...

1.   It does not work!
2.   PG Distortion build
3.   http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/21291-build-your-own-stompbox?page=1
4.   Y
5.   Y -swapping out of transistor (2N5088 or 89 – can't remember – for 2N3904); changed C1 to 683 and chose own diodes
6.   Negative ground (black to ground)
7.   9.39

Voltages – battery connected to breadboard so I don't know how to measure this?

Q1
C - 0.05
B - 0.02
E - 0

D1
A 0
K 0

D2
A 0
K 0

I've put some photos plus the build guide in this Google Drive folder - https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B83-kEo90gB9V2MxS2RxZGl2dHc&usp=sharing

Many thanks all!

bluebunny

You need to put the black lead on a ground point (use a clip preferably, rather than a probe).  The use the red probe to read voltages from around your circuit.  If this is what you did, then there's not much in the way of electricity getting to anything.  You might want to see what voltage sits between those black and red power leads going to your board (or between the busses underneath).

For future builds (which are bound to happen - it's the law), use solid wire for perf.  Trying to cope with stranded wire which you've denuded is like juggling jelly / herding cats / insert your own analogy here!   ;D   Also, solder your component to the pad where it pokes through the board, not just where it connects to the next one.  It'll make for a more solid build, stop things rattling, and give you more chances of getting a good joint.   ;)

Keep at it.  We'll get there.
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Dito

I did the same project as my first build. Are you able to swear on a stack of Marshall amps that you've got everything wired back to the breadboard correctly?

There are parts of that tutorial that ARE confusing. Mine succeeded, but I had plenty of wiring issues too.

I agree with Mr. Bunny and suggest checking all your power and ground connections. They're ridiculously easy to mix up. I've only built two pedals - including this one - and I've done it on both.

As for wire, my personal preference is the pre-bonded wire from a Small Bear Electronics. It's like a cross between stranded and solid. Stranded is a PITA with all those little hairs. Solid is almost too solid. This stuff is still flexible, but a thousand times easier to get into solder holes.
"All that's left of me is slight insanity / What's on the right, I don't know." - Sugar (Bob Mould), Hoover Dam

peterg

Welcome!

Looks like you have some cold solder joints:

-power buss column L
-ground buss columns H, K and L
-half way down columns P/O

The joint at column F on the power buss looks good so you can use it as a bench mark. Give the bad ones a quick hit with the iron to make sure the parts are connected.

jatkin16

Thanks all - I'll probably not be able to get to a soldering iron now until next week but I'll bear all of your comments in mind and come back!

Thanks!

jatkin16

It works! (Well, the LED has illuminated)

Thanks for all your help, now to take it home and noise test it!

bluebunny

Good news, Joel.  The next one will be easier.  And the one after that, easier still.  And . . .   ;)
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jatkin16

Hi again guys, I've boxed the thing up and nothing. I have continuity between every connection that should have a connection... so what gives and what should I be looking for?

Thanks again!

Cozybuilder

Post some photos (and a schematic and wiring diagram) and someone here should be able to help you.
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

jatkin16

Link to pedal photos in box here - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B83-kEo90gB9V2MxS2RxZGl2dHc

On that link is also the full guide. It worked up until I put it in the box (so the full perf worked on a breadboard)

bluebunny

You don't appear to have anything connected to the output jack except for the screen.  And you may want to reflow the screen lug on the input jack.  Finally, throw a piece of gaffer or electrical tape over the underside of the board to avoid shorts where you can't see them.  Those R/A pots are asking to short out against something!
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Cozybuilder

Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

jatkin16

So I followed the guide exactly, which has worked for other people (poster above in point). If you go to the Google Drive link and look at the Wiring Diagram doc, that's how it is wired up. If this is as wrong as the link above says then how has this worked for others?

Bunny what else should go to the output jack? Currently that's wired to middle right of the foots with.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B83-kEo90gB9V2MxS2RxZGl2dHc

bluebunny

I may be mistaken, but you only have one connection going to your output jack.  I suspect it's the switched output from your board.  And it's going to the screen lug.  So there's no signal going down the lead to your amp.  Humour me and check for continuity from what looks like the right-hand middle lug of the foot switch to the tip of a lead plugged into the output jack.  I may be mistaken...
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