My enclosure finishing experience

[bendeane]

This may or may not end up being beneficial but I'm chronicling my journey of finishing an enclosure. First time for me really trying to achieve a pro look at a hobby level.

Started by messing up my enclosure and way too late at night I drilled my final hole (my DC jack) on the opposite end I was supposed to.

I used Bondo to fill the hole and so far so good.

Applying 4 thin coats of Self Etching Primer waiting 2-3 minutes between coats per can recommendations.

Gonna leave that overnight and color coat tomorrow.

[vigilante397]

I guess I never read the can That's the same stuff I always used though, it's the good stuff. I would usually do 2 coats of primer baking 10 minutes at 300 F between each coat, then after it cools down go to the actual paint coats.

But that's just me, there's more than one way to skin an enclosure

[bluebunny]

Four coats of primer sounds like almost three too many.  But that's just me too...   

[bendeane]

Well, it's kind of like really thin thin coats as to make certain there are absolutely no runs. I would say, technically, it ends up being one coat.

[bendeane]

About 14 hours later and the primered enclosure is gonna get its first coat of color. Same thing, 4 really thin coats separated by 2-3 minutes each for the "first coat" and gonna repeat that process after an hour, probably 3 more times.

[Kevin Mitchell]

Ha I have the same cans on the shelf. About to do some labeling with the blue 

Always thin coats - enough to get the job done and it could take up to a month before the gloss coat feels hard and more scratch resistant. Well... In New England weather... 

I haven't baked one but I may retire a toaster oven in the name of science.

[vigilante397]

I haven't baked one but I may retire a toaster oven in the name of science.

I highly recommend it. It speeds up the hardening process by several months.

[bendeane]

I plan on baking this one. After final color coat and then again after final clear coat.

[vigilante397]

I plan on baking this one. After final color coat and then again after final clear coat.

I suppose if your coats are thin enough that should be sufficient, but personally I'm not patient enough to do a lot of thin coats so I usually do 2-3 full covering coats and bake between every coat

[bendeane]

Yeah, for this one it works out to wait an hour between costs 'cause I have all these crazy random appointments and errands to during each hour and I'm not just sitting around waiting.

[karbomusic]

It's really best to do extremely thin coats with a minute or so of dry time between (usually similar is on the can/instructions). The secret is that each coat is so thin, it literally dries to the touch before the next coat but the acetone etc. in next coat reactivates it enough to bond properly. By doing so you could do 10 coats in 10 minutes (or less), then bake that. There is no need use thicker coats and bake as it doesn't take much before it is too thick (even though it doesn't seem like it) and baking can't fix it because the skin that forms on top acts like a paint can lid causing the non-dry paint under that skin to stay not dry/cured for months no matter what you do - Even if it eventually does IMHO it isn't the same kind of cured/dry as using super-thin coats even if you do bake it.

[plexi12000]

wow--- that's funny, i just tried that rustoleum 2x paint and the clear.  on sale for 2.99 at Ace! lol  what the heck, tried it yesterday.

surprised the heck out of me. REALLY good coating.  (really...i could have let it "as is".  but decided to wet sand, etc)

i sprayed....maybe 5 mins. between coats....then let it dry for an hour or so.....when ok to handle....roasted it at about 250F  for two hours.  Hard as a rock.

It can totally take the heat- no yellowing, etc.  or discoloration.   AND it really smooths out even more.  decent stuff.  i'll use it again.

[davent]

It's really best to do extremely thin coats with a minute or so of dry time between (usually similar is on the can/instructions). The secret is that each coat is so thin, it literally dries to the touch before the next coat but the acetone etc. in next coat reactivates it enough to bond properly. By doing so you could do 10 coats in 10 minutes (or less), then bake that. There is no need use thicker coats and bake as it doesn't take much before it is too thick (even though it doesn't seem like it) and baking can't fix it because the skin that forms on top acts like a paint can lid causing the non-dry paint under that skin to stay not dry/cured for months no matter what you do - Even if it eventually does IMHO it isn't the same kind of cured/dry as using super-thin coats even if you do bake it.

And mist coating you'll never have to deal with runs. My can of Automotive Self-Etching Primer instructs "2 or 3 thin coats" and 'you've applied enough  when you can no longer see the surface you're priming.'

I apply BIN sealer/primer over the etching primer as it's  heavy bodied, fills any surface imperfections and sands beautifully.

dave

[karbomusic]

^Yep, my 10 coat reference was to show how fast one could do 10. I use the same etching primer as pictured and 3-4 misty coats is enough to cover. I have done 10 or more on some gloss enamel clear coats but different subject really.

[bendeane]

In the oven. I went with 3 thin coats with minutes separating them and then an hour between repeating that one time.

I've read 150F or 200F for 30 minutes but someone here just referenced 300F. I'm starting out at 150F.

Leave it in the oven as it cools down? Or use gloves to take the tray out immediately after 30 minutes being in the oven??

[davent]

Did anyone mention to use an oven dedicated for use with noxious substances?
dave

[bendeane]

Yes. Most definitely. Doing right outside my garage door and absolutely no other purpose for the oven (unless I decide to switch to a small powder coating operations, but I digress). The food residue is from the previous owner. Thrift shop. Poppin' tabs!

[bendeane]

Lost track of time. They've been in for about 90 minutes I think. Turned off the oven and gonna let them cool inside but with the door open.

Picture doesn't tell you much but nothing appears to have gone wrong (bubbling, black smoke, etc). I can smell the fumes gassing off but I've got the oven essentially outside (just inside the fully open garage door). The smell isn't obnoxious and on a cold day, an open window and a fan would suffice to ventilate (unless anyone warns me otherwise). This is the most fun I've had since I got into this hobby. I dreaded finishing until now. That may revert back to dread when I attempt the label.

Has anyone ever tried using a vinyl cutter that will cut out fine small details in adhesive backed colored vinyl? I used to wrap cars and many of the vinyls were heated with a torch pretty significantly to "reset" their "memory" to the new shape of the car. They would definitely hold up under a clear coat in a 150F degree oven.

[vigilante397]

I've read 150F or 200F for 30 minutes but someone here just referenced 300F. I'm starting out at 150F.

Leave it in the oven as it cools down? Or use gloves to take the tray out immediately after 30 minutes being in the oven??

That was me at 300F I've heard a lot of people do lower temperatures for a long time (2 hours or so) but I do 300F for 15 minutes, then usually let it cool inside the oven (door open and rack pulled out) for 15 minutes before handling. On the other hand if it's an etch (or engraving) that I've just filled in and am going to sand off the excess paint I'll pull it out with pliers and take it straight to the sink, run cool water over it then go straight to wetsanding.

[bendeane]

Cool. I've got a couple of small 1590Aish sized boxes I might try at 300F. One is a complete scrap piece. I drilled the jack holes too close to the top and no jack will fit except those enclosures rectangular ones if I sand down one of the plastic sides. I was (and in many cases, still am) a rookie when I did that.