When building a 18v circuit in a breadboard how do I supply power to the buses

Started by Belanger, March 28, 2016, 06:34:03 PM

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Belanger

I know this is probably a really stupid question but I was wondering I have to use a charge pump circuit as well or if I can actually just build the 18v circuit in the breadboard another way.  I'm really new to all of this so please try to take it easy on me haha
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Mark Hammer

Absolutely nothing wrong with running two 9v batteries in series.

The thing with charge pumps is they are limited in their current capability, although some can handle more than others.  If one is breadboarding a circuit of unknown current draw, it may be simplest to use batteries, just to be certain that you don't run out of current.

Transmogrifox

+1 Mark Hammer about 2 batteries.  Also you can use 2 9V adapters in the same way.

Connect
Battery#1 "+" to +9V
Battery#1 "-" to GND
Battery#2 "+" to GND (to battery#1 "-")
Battery#2 "-" to -9V

Substitute "9V adapter" for "Battery" above if using 2 9V adapters.

If you intend to use a charge pump in the final pedal, then you may add that in after you have the basic circuit working correctly.  That is a good way to reduce the number of systems that can go wrong.  If the circuit worked before the charge pump but didn't work after, then you know what to look at.
trans·mog·ri·fy
tr.v. trans·mog·ri·fied, trans·mog·ri·fy·ing, trans·mog·ri·fies To change into a different shape or form, especially one that is fantastic or bizarre.

Cozybuilder

Quote from: Transmogrifox on March 28, 2016, 07:59:03 PM
+1 Mark Hammer about 2 batteries.  Also you can use 2 9V adapters in the same way.

Connect
Battery#1 "+" to +18V
Battery#1 "-" to GND
Battery#2 "+" to GND (to battery#1 "-")
Battery#2 "-" to -18V

Substitute "9V adapter" for "Battery" above if using 2 9V adapters.

If you intend to use a charge pump in the final pedal, then you may add that in after you have the basic circuit working correctly.  That is a good way to reduce the number of systems that can go wrong.  If the circuit worked before the charge pump but didn't work after, then you know what to look at.

giggle
Love the math: 9 + 9 = +18 & -18 = 36 without a charge pump
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

karbomusic

Quote from: Belanger on March 28, 2016, 06:34:03 PM
I know this is probably a really stupid question but I was wondering I have to use a charge pump circuit as well or if I can actually just build the 18v circuit in the breadboard another way.  I'm really new to all of this so please try to take it easy on me haha

Unless there is a compelling reason such as 'customer confusion',  the fun of the 'DIY challenge' or 'must run on batteries', just get an 18V supply and call it a day. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-ECB004-Adapter-18V-Barrel/dp/B0002E3FBK

Belanger

Ok I have a 18v wall wart il could solder leads on to the end after cutting off the barrel part correct?  Then just shrink wrap it. I also have tons of 9v batteries and that sounds a little more appealing just for the fact I'm not cutting up a wall wart if I don't have to

Also I bought one of those power adapter parts off eBay that has the barrel and led to show power is on. It says 3.3-5v.  If I wanted to used that with my wall wart what do you think the best way of going about it would be.  Or should I just scrap it and stick up batteries. I only like the regulated wall wart idea because you know your getting and consistent voltage supply
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

I think the point about the current draw is a really valid one and I may just stick to the 9v's in series. Always nice to know your options though
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

Thank you so much guys. I can usually find what I'm lol
Looking for on google but the more I looked for answers on this the more confused I became.
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

mcknib

Quote from: Belanger on March 28, 2016, 08:53:46 PM
Ok I have a 18v wall wart il could solder leads on to the end after cutting off the barrel part correct?  Then just shrink wrap it. I also have tons of 9v batteries and that sounds a little more appealing just for the fact I'm not cutting up a wall wart if I don't have to


Belanger

You wouldn't have to do all that just use a suitable DC jack socket with a coupla wires soldered to it stick them in your power buses the correct way round of course! plug your adapter into that and off you go obviously make sure your adapter's the correct type AC to DC or whatever it is you require (http://www.maker.ie/blog/wtf-is-up-with-dc-power-supplies) and of course using a filtered, regulated adapter would be better than a cheapo one. Ignore the breadboard it's half done it's just to show you what I mean explaining things isn't my forte!



You can check to see what voltage you're getting out of your adapter with your multi meter if it's a centre negative stick your black probe into the middle and touch the outside with your red probe


duck_arse

I have two questions for you, belanger - what is the voltage marked on the nameplate of that 18V wart - and - what is the output voltage you measure on the end of that 18V wart?
don't make me draw another line.

Transmogrifox

trans·mog·ri·fy
tr.v. trans·mog·ri·fied, trans·mog·ri·fy·ing, trans·mog·ri·fies To change into a different shape or form, especially one that is fantastic or bizarre.

Jdansti

Quote from: duck_arse on March 29, 2016, 08:43:02 AM
I have two questions for you, belanger - what is the voltage marked on the nameplate of that 18V wart - and - what is the output voltage you measure on the end of that 18V wart?

Absolutely!  Is your 18v adapter regulated?  If not, it could put out several volts above 18v. Check it with a meter before using it.
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Belanger

If I don't want to splice the 18 V adaptor can I use an old daisy chain cord and splice the end of that and solder the old leads of a component to the ends and use that to power the bread board
Quote from: Belanger on March 28, 2016, 09:04:22 PM
Thank you so much guys. I can usually find what I'm lol
Looking for on google but the more I looked for answers on this the more confused I became.




THANK YOU. That is exactly what I was looking for haha seems so obvious now that you've pointed it out to me as well  :icon_redface:






Ignore my previous questions its redundant
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Belanger

Quote from: duck_arse on March 29, 2016, 08:43:02 AM
I have two questions for you, belanger - what is the voltage marked on the nameplate of that 18V wart - and - what is the output voltage you measure on the end of that 18V wart?




It's a Dunlop ecb004 I believe it's called. I have a couple of them as I was previously using them to power a few amptweaker pedals    I'll have to check what the output voltage is when I get home tonight
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

karbomusic

Quote from: Belanger on March 29, 2016, 04:54:32 PM
Quote from: duck_arse on March 29, 2016, 08:43:02 AM
I have two questions for you, belanger - what is the voltage marked on the nameplate of that 18V wart - and - what is the output voltage you measure on the end of that 18V wart?

It's a Dunlop ecb004 I believe it's called. I have a couple of them as I was previously using them to power a few amptweaker pedals    I'll have to check what the output voltage is when I get home tonight

That's a regulated (within 5%) PSU if I remember. That's why I linked to it earlier as it should potentially work just fine as is. I already use it on a few pedals where need the voltage swing for dynamic range aka clean boost et al.

mcknib

You're bang on Kary pardon the pun

Dunlop ECB-004 18V Power Supply Features:

    Input Voltage Range    100-240V/50-60Hz
    18V Power Supply
    18VDC @ 1000mA (1A) 5% regulated
    2.1 mm x 5.5 mm + Barrel negative centre

You can check it's output per the pic Belanger the one in the pic's a 9v Boss regulated adapter and as you can see pretty accurate output


Quote
and of course using a filtered, regulated adapter would be better than a cheapo one.

I should have said 'never' use a cheapo one not 'would be better etc' I've had 9v cheapos putting out 14v -  always get good filtered regulated adapters never scrimp on them not only do they give you accurate output being filtered they help cut down any unwanted noise.

induction

Quote from: mcknib on March 29, 2016, 07:37:38 PM
I should have said 'never' use a cheapo one not 'would be better etc' I've had 9v cheapos putting out 14v -  always get good filtered regulated adapters never scrimp on them not only do they give you accurate output being filtered they help cut down any unwanted noise.

I say never use expensive regulated adapters. Much cheaper to buy (or find) a cheap, crappy 12V DC adapter and build a 9V regulator and filter circuit yourself. DIY, etc.