Finished the madbean Andy Timmons pedal and I'm getting signal in bypass

Started by Belanger, May 16, 2016, 12:32:03 PM

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Belanger

Hey so I built the mad bean turnabout and I have a signal while the effects is in true bypass but as soon as its engaged I lose the signal

I've been reading my ass off from all the troubleshooting pages, but this is the first pedal I've wiried up( built a few circuits while waiting for all my parts to show up so I could wire them up). Anyways there's tons of room for error in this one.  I didn't have a 1uf NP cap so I used a 1uf BP( probably not the best idea I've ever had) also the gain and volume put are supposed to be 100k and currently I have the gain set up with a 47k resistor in series. I'm testing it out of the enclosure With everything wired up and it's pretty ugly but I could really use some help   Oh sorry the last stupid thing I probably did was use a 10uf bipolar electrocylic as well because I currently had no regular ones here in stock. Also I know the resistor lead to the LED broke   Just now as I was taking pics so I'm going fix that up as well

EDITED PICS ( didn't want the page drowning in images)
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

bloxstompboxes

I would reflow your solder and clip any stray wires like in the bottom left and right of the last image. Looks like there might be some solder bridging like on the 7th and 8th strips from the right near the top, for example. I'm at work or I'd offer some more help.

Floor-mat at the front entrance to my former place of employment. Oh... the irony.

robthequiet

Following bcs I am interested in outcome. I would be checking the wiring, solder bridges, etc., things you have already done 10 times but sometimes it's the 11th. GL!

helloesposito

Can you post a picture of the poles of the 3pdt? Something looks weird, but it might just be the angle. Also, when you post a picture of the poles, can you make a quick note that says what each wire is going to and from? And did you use a specific diagram for the 3pdt that you can reference or post also?

Also is the 1n4001 (or similar diode) there for power filtering? If so, that looks like it's backwards since the 9v is coming in there and should be hitting the cathode (gray stripe) and not the anode.  8)

Edit: Forget the bit about the diode, I just saw the schematic after I posted. Heh.

Can someone explain the point of that diode? I haven't seen that before
I just started making da pedals!
I'm on da Instagrams as Madgekin

Belanger

Yes I will.  Thanks a billion as well for your help guys.  Also I've gone over the solder and any suspicious looks places. I've also replaced the 10uf BP cap I had in there with a regular electrocylic , still have that stupid 1 if BP in there for now though :icon_eek:  I've trimmed all the ends and also re melted solder anywhere that could possibly be a cold joint.  Also used a X-Acto knife for any possible bridges.  I'll take that pic now of the 3pdt and again thank you so much for helping

The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

Also when I have it plugged into the amp and I touch the output I get that sound you would expect but I'm not getting it at the input jack
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger


I just went over the schematic/layout and the diode is correct according to what it shows






Quote from: helloesposito on May 16, 2016, 02:48:48 PM
Can you post a picture of the poles of the 3pdt? Something looks weird, but it might just be the angle. Also, when you post a picture of the poles, can you make a quick note that says what each wire is going to and from? And did you use a specific diagram for the 3pdt that you can reference or post also?

Also is the 1n4001 (or similar diode) there for power filtering? If so, that looks like it's backwards since the 9v is coming in there and should be hitting the cathode (gray stripe) and not the anode.  8)

Edit: Forget the bit about the diode, I just saw the schematic after I posted. Heh.

Can someone explain the point of that diode? I haven't seen that before
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

Ok so it's the wiring it has to be I went over the entire board from the schematic last night component component into the continuity test and it seemed fine.   What the F am I doing wrong guys.  Does anyone have a trusted wiring diagram.  Possibly the one I'm using is garbage.   

Also



Also it says lug number 2 and 9 (if I'm saying it right) both attach to the input jack.  Could I not just link them like I did with 3,6 and then run it to the output.   


I've been reading a ton but I'm very clearly missing something
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Groovenut

In the pic of the bottom of the board in the first post, it looks to me like there might be a wire hair touching from 5th row bottom right to 6th row bottom right, also same type of thing at 13th bottom from the right to 14th from the right.

Maybe just the pic, but worth checking out
You've got to love obsolete technology.....

antonis

"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

antonis

After a short investigation they came up 13 suspects.. :icon_wink:
(some spots left intentionally blank - please vote for them..) :icon_lol:



"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Cozybuilder

Quote from: antonis on May 17, 2016, 10:54:25 AM
After a short investigation they came up 13 suspects.. :icon_wink:
(some spots left intentionally blank - please vote for them..) :icon_lol:



This really underscores why we want to see photos of the build when trying to help debug it!
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

duck_arse



can someone else please stare intently at this pic and tell me if the red wire to the jack centre-left of pic looks to be connected to the sleeve lug, while belangor Belanger applies his meter to same to dis/prove.

[edit :] spelling, oops.
don't make me draw another line.

antonis

Yes it's connected as you think, Duckie..

Probably he uses switched Sleeve's ground for the LED (yellow wire) but it should be allways lit because in by-pass mode it's also grounded via Ring's wire..  :icon_eek:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Belanger

I went over the board last night and cleaned everything up and re melted solder where it needed to be done. Also checked for continuity throughout the whole circuit following the schematic (swing and a miss?. This is the first pedal I've ever wired so I expected to make mistakes lol. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of it

This is what it looks like now   
i went through everything with the X-Acto knife to make sure there was no bridges.


So I'll start taking orders now HA! (Just kidding)
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

How can I test just the circuit to make sure it's not the problem   I tried finding it online but I think I've just been overwhelmed with information lol  :icon_redface:  :icon_rolleyes:
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

I seriously hope I get better at this with time or else it's going to be a really expensive hobby lol.  Luckily I made a second board that's ready to be  populated    I just wanted to be sure that it's the problem first
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

Ok so o just completely rebuilt it instead of wasting my time when any 1 of 1000000 things could have been wrong with that circuit. It was almost as F***ED up as Donald Trump. I have high hopes for this next circuit so fingers crossed when I wire it up from the madbean standard wiring diagram it works


If anyone cares to tell me if I messed up here are some pics of it
I know it appears to have a bridge at the boot right but it's not I can see a clear track between the soldered components



The best substitute for intelligence is silence

feddozz

Have you checked continuity between rows with a meter? Once I had a cut which wasn't complete. Only a meter could tell me because I could not see it with my naked eyes, even after knowing there was continuity. So test for continuity all your rows with the adjacent rows and also test them across the cuts.

Your second board is a big improvement from the previous one. However, it looks to me that there is a bridge; look at the bottom row 5th hole starting from the right and the hole above, it might just be the pic.  There might be others. Your meter will tell you.

Quote from: Belanger on May 17, 2016, 03:06:29 PM
How can I test just the circuit to make sure it's not the problem

Test the circuits BEFORE adding the bypass machinery, jacks and any other off board components. In the pic below I can see the finished board. Add all the necessary cables: 9V, ground, in, out, pots, etc. connect to the guitar and battery etc and play. See if the board works. Once that is a given we'll move on to the next steps.

In general, I find very helpful breaking down your building process in various steps and find a way of testing each step. The smaller the step, the fewer the things you need to check. It helped me with my debugging and my building technique improved from one build to the next.
And "dog balls on your face"...

helloesposito

Hey I think I got it! Whatever Jack is on the left side of the picture of all your offboard, those lugs are definitely switched. The grounds (black wires) should be sleeve, and the tip should go to the northwest lug on the 3pdt. And rather than having a second long wire (green) going from the tip, just add a small wire from the northwest lug of the 3pdt, to the southeast lug. I think.
I just started making da pedals!
I'm on da Instagrams as Madgekin