Diy modded DS -1 distortion effect problem

[bbsen]

Hi all,

I have built a modded DS-1 based on this comprehensive document.

Build Your Own DS-1 Distortion - DIYstompboxes.com

https://www.google.com.hk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.diystompboxes.com/DIYFiles/up/Build_Your_Own_DS-1_Distortion.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiBzLzQo_DOAhVCkZQKHU_-Cz0QFggbMAE&usg=AFQjCNEPc5m4u2pyAzJ0zAbUt7nEAuWwDQ&sig2=9Tzto9lTeTmX26RwnNbCyQ

It Only has small amount of distortion even when the B100K pot is turned to max, it sounds more like a low gain overdrive.

The ultra and seeing eye  LEDs do lit up while playing. I checked the value of the capacitors nd resistors  before soldering.  Change port's values but nothing seem to solve the issue.

Attached are photos of my poorly made board. Any advise from you guys is much appreciated , cheers.

And sorry for my poor English. [emoji22]



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[balkanizeyou]

The thing is - using LEDs as clipping diodes results in a bigger headroom (because the signal has to be at ~2V in order to start clipping, instead of 0.6-0.7 for silicon diodes) and higher output level, but also considerably less distortion.
I looked at the schematic and there should be two SPDT switches to choose between clipping diodes - try flipping those SPDTs to the silicon diodes setting, not LEDs, and see how it goes. If the distortion is still low, it means that the problem lies somewhere else (bad component/bad value/bad solder joint/miswiring/PCB open or short/something else).

And your english is better than mine, and I'm not apologizing so you shouldn't either!

[antonis]

If your problem is Gain (not Volume) you can modify R8 and/or R13 resistor values..

I would avoid to upset Q2 bias so I would replace R13 (4k7) with 2k2 (minimum) and if it was OK I would also replace C8 (470nF) with 1μF (to keep the same HP freq up..)

Anyway, DS-1 is a "mild" distortion pedal (U1B gain is around 28db) so you can tweak R13 to your taste as long as you maintain the same R13xC8 product..

[bbsen]

Thanks to both of you, really appreciated. Since it is a popular layout and the Keeley mods are recommended by any people, I assumed it is my mistakes that made it sounds wrong.

I will make.some tweaks to the circuit as suggested by you guys and see how things go.

Thanks again!

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[anotherjim]

On the pcb back picture, top edge, it looks like a broken track to the 4th (black?) wire from the left. There could be more. Test continuity with a meter. Note: solder flux on joints can insulate the meter probe contact and make you think there's no continuity when there really could be. A test meter with a continuity test "beep" sounder is a very good thing to have - it's often combined with the diode test on the selector switch.

With a suspect pcb etch, it's a good idea to "tin" the tracks first with solder. Don't take too long over it. Prolonged heating will cause the copper to unstick.

Another thing to watch out for is the copper bursting off the board near component pads if there has been some force used to bed a component down to the board - when this happens it usually breaks the copper. Again, prove continuity from the component legs along the copper track.

Track breaks might fix by drawing solder across  the gap, but sometimes a bit of wire is needed.

[bbsen]

If your problem is Gain (not Volume) you can modify R8 and/or R13 resistor values..

I would avoid to upset Q2 bias so I would replace R13 (4k7) with 2k2 (minimum) and if it was OK I would also replace C8 (470nF) with 1μF (to keep the same HP freq up..)

Anyway, DS-1 is a "mild" distortion pedal (U1B gain is around 28db) so you can tweak R13 to your taste as long as you maintain the same R13xC8 product..

Apparently the Keeley mod already changed the C 8 to 1uf and r13 to 2.4k ohm.

Seems the problem is somewhere else.

Also, maybe the photo taken by my phone is not so good quality, in fact I did continuity check and the solders seems OK despite they don't look very nicely done.



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[bbsen]

On the pcb back picture, top edge, it looks like a broken track to the 4th (black?) wire from the left. There could be more. Test continuity with a meter. Note: solder flux on joints can insulate the meter probe contact and make you think there's no continuity when there really could be. A test meter with a continuity test "beep" sounder is a very good thing to have - it's often combined with the diode test on the selector switch.

With a suspect pcb etch, it's a good idea to "tin" the tracks first with solder. Don't take too long over it. Prolonged heating will cause the copper to unstick.

Another thing to watch out for is the copper bursting off the board near component pads if there has been some force used to bed a component down to the board - when this happens it usually breaks the copper. Again, prove continuity from the component legs along the copper track.

Track breaks might fix by drawing solder across  the gap, but sometimes a bit of wire is needed.

Checked the connection you suggested. No beep ...


Usually when I like the build I made , I clear coat the copper traces side to protect against oxidation.

So far I made 10 satisfactory pedals and seems the boards are OK

THanks for your suggestion anyway

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[pappasmurfsharem]

Checked the connection you suggested. No beep ...


Usually when I like the build I made , I clear coat the copper traces side to protect against oxidation.

So far I made 10 satisfactory pedals and seems the boards are OK

THanks for your suggestion anyway

Sent from my XT1033 using Tapatalk

No beep? Thats a bad thing depending


That spot really looks broken.



Put the red lead of multimeter on the red spot, and the black lead on the black.

Does it beep when in continuity/diode mode?

[ElectricDruid]

+1 agree, that looks like a broken track to me too.

Definitely get that checked out before you start on anything else.

Tom

[bbsen]

Checked the connection you suggested. No beep ...


Usually when I like the build I made , I clear coat the copper traces side to protect against oxidation.

So far I made 10 satisfactory pedals and seems the boards are OK

THanks for your suggestion anyway

Sent from my XT1033 using Tapatalk

No beep? Thats a bad thing depending


That spot really looks broken.



Put the red lead of multimeter on the red spot, and the black lead on the black.

Does it beep when in continuity/diode mode?

Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately it's beeps .... Not broken....



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