Help with understanding this schematic

Started by KF5TJC, October 02, 2016, 01:36:49 PM

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KF5TJC

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=52784&g2_serialNumber=1

I don't understand this picture. What are the lines and red squares on the backside of the board? I don't understand how everything is connected. Could someone please help me?

Kipper4

Welcome aboard.

That's not a schematic mate.
This is a schematic

http://livedoor.blogimg.jp/eff_effects/imgs/5/5/5595bf70.png

The link you posted is to a vero layout.
For you to effectively build effects and debug your time would be better spent learning from scratch about schematics and what does what.
It takes a while to get the hang of stuff. Well it is for me.
If I can do it you can too.

I'm not a big fan of vero because I'm not good with it.

Just for info though the lines are wire jumpers.
And the red squares are cuts.

I wish you luck
Rich



Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/

armdnrdy

I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

a2music

A schematic is pretty different from the picture in the link. Schematics are very important to understand and there are many online resources to help you through the basics. The picture you were looking at is strip board and it comes from the following excellent resource http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/?m=1

Strip board is a simple way to build smaller circuits. I started with strip board and graduated to many other ways of building effect circuits. Everything you want to know about connecting switches, jacks, pots is contained in the diagram in the link. You just need to understand the basics first. Take a look at the link I gave you and you will find answers to almost every newbie DIY pedal question. I learned everything I know from websites. If I can learn how to build and even design guitar effects then most people (and perhaps chimps and other great apes) can learn as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KF5TJC

Yeah, I know what a schematic is, I just didn't know what to call that picture. I've never done anything with those types of boards, only pcb boards. But, I do have a breadboard that I'd like to try some of these things out on. I just didn't understand that picture. Thanks.

Kipper4

My mistake I apologise for jumping to conclusions.
It's a vero board layout.
Have fun.
Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/

KF5TJC

I'd rather you assume I know nothing than to assume I know a lot and bury me with technical jargon.

bamslam69

Quote from: KF5TJC on October 03, 2016, 08:06:26 PM
I'd rather you assume I know nothing than to assume I know a lot and bury me with technical jargon.
Still a bit of a noob here with the guitar effect world, so someone feel free to correct me.

Re: That vero board layout you linked...

You put all the components on top, with the copper strips underneath, and where you do all the soldering.
The Bottom pic should be a mirror of the top board,  but with all the components removed, and only showing the cuts, (and maybe the jumpers).

Not having gone through the schematic, I could see a board being ruined by cutting the strips in the wrong spots, because the cuts were shown from the top.
Basically, if you've got the schematic, and that vero layout, it's good to go through them together with a fluoro pen tracing the circuit out. That way you can pick up on any errors that might've been missed.

Hope this makes sense.
Yeah Nah - Nah Yeah

roseblood11

Quote from: bamslam69 on October 03, 2016, 09:19:42 PM

The Bottom pic should be a mirror of the top board,  but with all the components removed, and only showing the cuts, (and maybe the jumpers).


It should be mirrored, but in this case it isn't. It's like looking on top of a see-through board.
I always add a mirrored view of the trace side, because it's much easier to make the cuts this way:


KF5TJC

Ok, now that I've been told there's copper strips on the bottom, I get it. I didn't realize that it had something on the bottom; I just kind of assumed it was only plastic and you had to make "traces" using wires as jumpers. Thanks for all the help, everyone. This opens up a ton of possibilities now that I understand what's going on.
Jared

Tony Forestiere

Quote from: KF5TJC on October 03, 2016, 08:06:26 PM
I'd rather you assume I know nothing than to assume I know a lot and bury me with technical jargon.

Brilliant attitude. Welcome.

Quote from: bamslam69 on October 03, 2016, 09:19:42 PM

You put all the components on top, with the copper strips underneath, and where you do all the soldering.
The Bottom pic should be a mirror of the top board,  but with all the components removed, and only showing the cuts, (and maybe the jumpers).

Hope this makes sense.

Perfect sense.

Gentlemen of this fine forum: I believe a couple of light bulbs have illuminated for these new members. (I do miss that bulb emoticon.)

Welcome to you, and keep the mental gears sharp.



"Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together." Carl Zwanzig
"Whoso neglects learning in his youth, loses the past and is dead for the future." Euripides
"Friends don't let friends use Windows." Me

bamslam69

Thanks Tony,
Reading the schematic & populating the perfboard is all good and well here. But as for a good lookin' stomp box and neat wiring, that where everything goes a bit pear-shaped.
Hopefully time and experience will fix this...
Yeah Nah - Nah Yeah

PRR

> told there's copper strips

Ah.

Yes, nobody knows this until they see it.

First there was blank board. You put in all the holes and wires. Then board with holes in it. You put in all the wires. Neither style gave you anything to solder parts TO, though with parts one side and wires the other, they couldn't get away. "Flea clips" (SmallBear has em) in perf board give something to solder to. Another form is "pad per hole" with small copper around each hole.

Some devious designer realized that if the holy board had "wires" (copper strips) going one way, you could sometimes get more than half your "wires" done by using the copper strips as much as possible, laying your components at right angles, and maybe putting a few "cuts" in the copper strips where two part-strips were useful.

Personally I prefer brass tacks in a pine board, but it is bulky, and true brass tacks are hard to find.
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