Old Overdrive kit - Need help for a repair

[pranx]

Hey guys!

Un-dusted an Old kit I never got to finish and I Need help for some repairs.

I tried de-soldering the wires 3 times because I'm bad a de-soldering and wires was shorting.

Ended up removing the eyelet. I think I even burnt the trace.

https://imgur.com/gallery/9BZGH

What would be the best way to repair that?! Thanks!

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[stallik]

The pad you've removed looks like it is connected by a trace to the terminal on the left. If this is the case, you could simply solder the wire to the left hand pad. A better way would be to run the wire through the hole and bend it over the left hand pad then solder. This would give some strain relief.

BUT before you do anything, the whole area needs a good clean up. The yellow tarnish is likely to be discoloured flux which may in itself be giving some issues. I'd suggest a small wire brush to clean the area. Wire wool would also work but it leaves a whole load of fine wires behind which will short anything they touch unless you thoroughly remove every last bit.

I've used switch cleaner in conjunction with the wire brush in the past to good effect. Others may suggest different reagents.

Finally, there is a reason that the board has ended up in this state. If your soldering iron is too big, too hot or left in contact with the board too long, damage like this can occur. Remember, it doesn't take long to correctly solder clean wire onto a clean pad but if either is tarnished or dirty, you'll never make a good connection no matter how hot or long you apply the iron.

As you admit to inexperience with soldering, I'd really recommend that you practice on some waste material before trying it out on this board.

Good luck

[pranx]

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[pranx]

The pad you've removed looks like it is connected by a trace to the terminal on the left. If this is the case, you could simply solder the wire to the left hand pad. A better way would be to run the wire through the hole and bend it over the left hand pad then solder. This would give some strain relief.

BUT before you do anything, the whole area needs a good clean up. The yellow tarnish is likely to be discoloured flux which may in itself be giving some issues. I'd suggest a small wire brush to clean the area. Wire wool would also work but it leaves a whole load of fine wires behind which will short anything they touch unless you thoroughly remove every last bit.

I've used switch cleaner in conjunction with the wire brush in the past to good effect. Others may suggest different reagents.

Finally, there is a reason that the board has ended up in this state. If your soldering iron is too big, too hot or left in contact with the board too long, damage like this can occur. Remember, it doesn't take long to correctly solder clean wire onto a clean pad but if either is tarnished or dirty, you'll never make a good connection no matter how hot or long you apply the iron.

As you admit to inexperience with soldering, I'd really recommend that you practice on some waste material before trying it out on this board.

Good luck

First thanks for your input!

A brush and 99% isopropanol would work? I don't have a brush but I'll figure it out.

For the experience part, soldering on the board went pretty slick. But wires man, I am very clumsy with them and winded up soldering cold joint and solder wick wasn't sucking everything, the pump either, wire was stuck in there, got frustrated and voila :-)

The pad that is removed is the negative   part of the DC connector. So clean and solder wire directly to the left pad would act like a *jumper* ?

Thanks again!

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[potul]

you can use an old toothbrush, that's what I usually do to clean flux using some cleaning agent. Alcohol should be good, AFAIK

[pranx]

Sweet. Thanks potul.

If anyone can confirm the procedure, I'll get to work this evening

I'm a total noob trying to make sense of all this haha. Figured I'd repair this while waiting for some parts to come from Tayda to try and practice some Vero builds!

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[duck_arse]

I can confirm - jumper, yes, we like to call them that. alcohol - yes, methylated spirits and a toothbrush is what I've used to remove/clean flux from boards. it might leave a white powder residue behind, just give another once over w/ the metho.

in your photos I can see two transistors which are oriented opposite of their board markings - is this the correct state of affairs? an approved modification/substitution?

[pranx]

I can confirm - jumper, yes, we like to call them that. alcohol - yes, methylated spirits and a toothbrush is what I've used to remove/clean flux from boards. it might leave a white powder residue behind, just give another once over w/ the metho.

in your photos I can see two transistors which are oriented opposite of their board markings - is this the correct state of affairs? an approved modification/substitution?

Nice. I Will dig into this project tonight!

I might need help later checking if things work. I have a manual multimeter and it didn't beep when there's continuity, nothing to help me

As for the piece, pretty sure it was part of the MOSFET conversion kit and had to be reversed I think. I will double check.

Thanks!

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[PRR]

> it didn't beep when there's continuity, nothing to help me

Real Electronics Technicians don't use a "continuity beep". (Well, sometimes.) That's only good for checking trailer lights; even then it leads to confusion. Is "beep" a wire or a light bulb? Most "continuity beepers" can't tell the difference.

Set the meter to Ohms. Watch the display as you separate and then touch the probes together. Apart should be "infinity" (often "---") and together should be "zero" (sometimes 0.4 or so).

Yes, this does need three eyes: one on each probe and the third on the display.

[pranx]

Ok so theres cointinuity between pin 4 and 8 of the IC socket.

Something weird is happening. guitar cable in input jack, I plug the AC adaptor and then both leds light up and then dim down to zero light after 1-3 seconds?

No clue what's happening.