Open frame vs closed frame jacks - Opinions?

[pprovost]

Hi all,

    First post in here. Looking forward to the discussions and great info!

    Quick opinion poll. I've built a few pedals and junction boxes and have always used open frame jacks (mostly Switchcraft and Lumberg). In some projects (both on the Aion Electronics site and on some BYOC stuff), I see that people are using closed frame jacks (the ones encased in plastic).

Personally, I like the open frame ones better, as they are not as long and they don't have the solder lugs protruding from the end. I've had issues when assembling the BYOC loop switcher where the LED legs would actually rub against the jack solder lugs and wreak havoc.

So, any reason you guys prefer one over the other? Opinions?

Thanks!

Paul

[anotherjim]

Horses for courses.

For appearance, I like Rean plastic enclosed with the bright plated bezel nut. Funny how open frame don't have anything better than a plated nut & washer, which are often the worst feature of the cheapo ones.

Sometimes you need pcb mounting.
Sometimes you need chassis isolation.
Plastic enclosed then.

Sometimes you deliberately want chassis connection.
Sometimes you have little space to fit things in.
Open chassis then.
Of course, the last 2 points are often the case in stompbox land.

[stallik]

I like open frame because if the jack connections ever get loose it's easy to bend the lugs to  tighten things up. Something I've never had to do

[rutabaga bob]

Welcome to the forum!  Hope you enjoy yourself!
I have used both, as most others here have...usually use the open-frame ones, mainly because I get a good deal of the jacks from scavenging old audio equipment.  Don't use the cheapies - if you're buying, get Neutriks... check out B*****s Love My Switches.

[GibsonGM]

Welcome!  I like open for pedals, but closed, fully isolated jacks for amps...easier to do a star ground elsewhere in them, as there is more room than a pedal.   

I ground both input AND output jacks in my pedals, as I cannot stand the output jack coming loose and making a BRRRRRRRR on stage...

[digi2t]

In tight builds, I tend to go with open since I can orientate it for clearance. In builds with room, I'll use whatever I have on hand.

[chuckd666]

I really like these ones http://www.altronics.com.au/p/p0099-6.35mm-low-profile-pcb-mount-stereo-jack-socket/

They incredibly cheap on eBay, quite compact, and feel good when plugging things in.

Their connectors are a bit iffy if not using a PCB, but can be stacked on TOP of each other in a 1590A if you're after simple space saving.

[GiovannyS10]

Be welcome pprovost! 

I ever do my buildings using a normal open frame jack... But now i am thinking in start to use more the plastic frame because is much easier to manager your free space inside pedals when you use it. And minimize the risk of a short with the pedal enclosure I think.

[karbomusic]

I tried enclosed instead of open because an amp builder I knew used them and I was curious why. I like that they are less exposed and I can't give statistics but it feels like I've had less trouble out of enclosed overall, over time. So for the time being I prefer the enclosed.

[duck_arse]

I like box jax, cause they (often) come with two spdt switches as well. good for battery switching, and you can pull the unsued pins out to allow fancy fittin's. they also sit side by side, and don't short if they turn, AND often have anti-rotate pips. I'd use those ones of chuck666 too, if I had them cheap.

the re-ann nut has me flummoxed, I don't much like them. the cheap plastic ones are OK, IF they have a nut that goes on and comes off without thread jambing.

open frame? I'll take em if you've got'em. welcome to the forum.

[anotherjim]

You should have some fibre washers with the rean to adjust for panel thickness. Some times they're missing, sometime you get too many.

[blackieNYC]

I really like these ones http://www.altronics.com.au/p/p0099-6.35mm-low-profile-pcb-mount-stereo-jack-socket/

They incredibly cheap on eBay, quite compact, and feel good when plugging things in.

Their connectors are a bit iffy if not using a PCB, but can be stacked on TOP of each other in a 1590A if you're after simple space saving.

I have to say these are the cause of many repairs. I'll qualify that though - if you can retouch the solder connections to the pc board AFTER the nut is tightened to the chassis, they'll last longer. Otherwise there is a lot of pressure on the solder connection.  But their connection to the pcb is not as strong as the Rean type, particularly as the 1/4 plug and cable get kicked around.  I'm not a fan of pc mount jacks in terms of withstanding normal abuse.