Yet another tinning question...flux?

Started by armdnrdy, December 11, 2016, 10:37:19 PM

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armdnrdy

I have tried the chemical tinning solutions with less than stellar results. I have etched, drilled, and tinned spare boards for future use...came back to them at a later date to find the "tinning" discolored, blotchy, and oxidized.

I decided to try out a variation of "roller tinning" that R.G. has described in several threads over the years.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50074.msg373907#msg373907

My question is...what type of flux should I use.

I looked into the type of flux that is suggested for commercially available roller tinning machines.
I didn't find much but...found this:

Roller Tinning Flux is high activity, organic water-soluble flux for flow soldering of printed circuits boards and it has been specially developed for solder coating of printed circuits boards by roller coating equipment. The process is known as roll tinning. Roller Tinning Flux provides excellent ionic cleanliness after water cleaning. No offensive odors and excessive fumes or smoke are evolved during soldering. It is completely biodegradable for environmentally safe disposal of waste wash water.
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

davent

Quote from: armdnrdy on December 11, 2016, 10:37:19 PM
I have tried the chemical tinning solutions with less than stellar results. I have etched, drilled, and tinned spare boards for future use...came back to them at a later date to find the "tinning" discolored, blotchy, and oxidized.



My experience with it as well, useless for me.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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vigilante397

Never bothered much with tinning. To avoid oxidization, if I wasn't planning on soldering up a board right away I would shoot it with a thin layer of clear coat (though obviously with CNC'd boards I just don't sand off the protective layer).
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peterc

If you are looking for an alternative, try this

http://www.kontaktchemie.com/koc/KOCproductdetail.csp?division=&product=FLUX%20SK%2010&ilang=all&plang=all

I have used it for a couple of years now with excellent results

Peter

armdnrdy

Thanks for the replies.

I'm sort of set on going with solder tinning. I have old boards from the late 70s, early 80s that were pulled from radio/intercom systems that were roller tinned.
The trace side looks bright and shiny after all of this time.
I have an original pre Dunlop, MXR Phase 100 board (unpopulated) that I purchase from an ebay seller (for the factory documentation) that is in pristine condition.



My thought is...for aesthetics, and for re-work purposes, a roller tinning type trace coating is the way to go.

I'm working on an actual hand roller based on R.G.s 1" brass pipe suggestion.
On the subject of flux...after searching extensively...I have found that there are not a whole lot of suppliers to purchase the type of flux that is suggested for use with roller tinning machines. (as outlined in my first post)
I have found a few with 1 U.S. gallon being the smallest size available...and with a shipping cost at more than the price of the flux. $45!
I decided to go with a fairly common Kester flux 951. I'll try it out to see if it's suitable for one off DIY boards.
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)