I want board mounted jack to be enclosure mounted.

Started by decibolic, December 23, 2016, 11:20:07 AM

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decibolic



I've discovered an inherent flaw with this design. It doesn't take much when I plug in the power supply to twist the AC input jack and cause it to break. The barrel end of any power supply cable I have fits snug and easily twists this connection if the pedal is moved. I've also had problems with the output jacs that is board mounted. If a plug is fully inserted the pedal is functionally intermittent.

As you also might be able to tell, the way this pedal is build the jacks and power inlet share an extremely cramped space. Here is a picture with the power jack in the enclosure without the supposed internal retaining nut in between the jacks



But I want to do is put this in pedal into a new enclosure, and relocate where the 1/4-inch jacks are, along with a new location for plugging in the power supply. My hope is to have better stability and less stress on the board. It seems that something, without much effort (while taking apart and rebuilding my pedal board) continually causes this pedal to fail. I am wanting to make it sturdier and more robust to handle such a simple operations, and especially when I take it on tour. 

I would show you the other side of the board, but at this point I have to get the pedal into somebody who can dismount the potentiometers to allow its removal.


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EBK

You may have to chop off the top of the board to make room for new jacks, but it's very doable.  For the power jack, a lock washer might help, or a dab of glue (preferably an easily-removable type for future maintenance) could help immobilize the nut.
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decibolic

If I drill a larger enclosure how hard would it be to add in some kind of wiring (and possibly new jacks) to float the input and output off the board?


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EBK

Wouldn't be hard, but do you want a larger enclosure?  You can make it work with the same size, possibly the existing enclosure, if you are willing to put in some extra effort.
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ElectricDruid

How important is it to you to maintain the top-mounted jacks?

If it was me, I'd drill new holes for the jacks on the left and right of where they are now, and wire those to the PCB. That'd give you loads of space on the top panel to get a proper backing nut on the power socket and stop that spinning around. Otherwise, that top panel is always going to be cramped, it seems to me.

But I also second the comment about glue - a bit of superglue can go a long way to fixing awkward problems like this.

HTH,
Tom

decibolic

#5


I'm concerned with the circuit topology and the space remaining in the current enclosure having enough depth to relocate at least the power jack. And I plan on putting a different one on.


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amptramp

In the top picture, it looks like the power jack is inserted from the outside and the nut goes on the inside, meaning you would have to unsolder the jack either at the jack or on the opposite side from the visible part of the board, which would be impossible.  I would use a jack with the nut on the outside so you can install it from the inside.  Then use a long twisted pair cable to the board so the jack can remain in place when the board is removed or the jack can be removed without disturbing the board.

decibolic


It appears the holes where the input and output jack are placed were not quite at the proper locations when the PCB board was finally soldered in place. This seems to cause undue stress on the output jack and also with the small wire leads to the AC plug.

I will run wires to each control and Jack, then to the PCB, to alleviate these stress induced issues. In the process I will be finding a bigger, or at least deeper, enclosure to remount everything in.


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snarblinge

Hammond 1590bb will give you a little more width, so jacks and dc could easily be top Mounted, 1590s will give you more height, and loose you less real estate on your board, I like them, but few builders use them, you end up about as tall as a boss pedal. But with your stomp hanging out the top. If you are feeling enthusiastic though, a slope conversion would give you the best of all worlds, I have never attempted it, but some on here have.
b.

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davent

If you chopped off most of the pcb that was under the jacks, everything north of the reverse protection diode, you gain a lot of space and it should easily fit it all back into the enclosure you have using open frame jacks.

Run the power from the power jack to either end of the diode. Use Lundburg jacks if standard open frames won't fit. The boards mounted to the pots so it's held firmly in place.

dave
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decibolic

Quote from: davent on December 30, 2016, 06:20:22 PM
If you chopped off most of the pcb that was under the jacks, everything north of the reverse protection diode, you gain a lot of space and it should easily fit it all back into the enclosure you have using open frame jacks.

Run the power from the power jack to either end of the diode. Use Lundburg jacks if standard open frames won't fit. The boards mounted to the pots so it's held firmly in place.

dave

Could you crop, cut or color a picture I've posted so I can see what you are saying? My Solder skill: great, my electronic  knowledge: beginner


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decibolic

Quote from: snarblinge on December 30, 2016, 05:15:07 PM
Hammond 1590bb will give you a little more width, so jacks and dc could easily be top Mounted, 1590s will give you more height, and loose you less real estate on your board, I like them, but few builders use them, you end up about as tall as a boss pedal. But with your stomp hanging out the top. If you are feeling enthusiastic though, a slope conversion would give you the best of all worlds, I have never attempted it, but some on here have.

I will look into these also. Thank you!


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ElectricDruid

Quote from: decibolic on December 31, 2016, 09:43:50 AM
Quote from: davent on December 30, 2016, 06:20:22 PM
If you chopped off most of the pcb that was under the jacks, everything north of the reverse protection diode, you gain a lot of space and it should easily fit it all back into the enclosure you have using open frame jacks.

Run the power from the power jack to either end of the diode. Use Lundburg jacks if standard open frames won't fit. The boards mounted to the pots so it's held firmly in place.

dave

Could you crop, cut or color a picture I've posted so I can see what you are saying? My Solder skill: great, my electronic  knowledge: beginner

I think Dave's talking about something like this:



Cut the board above the diode (along yellow line), and also above the holes where the jacks connect. The new jacks connect to the old holes (in green) the power connects to the diode (in blue).

HTH,
Tom

davent

Thanks Tom! You're right.

I can't see any traces through the solder mask, (outside of the jack ground), occupying the space under the jacks so you can chop it off to give you space for top mount jacks. You need to be certain there are no traces in that area besides that jack  ground.

You could make the cut above the the two power pads as that would make the power connection a bit easier then tying into the diode.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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decibolic

Yes and Thank you both!
It wasn't until looking at your repost did I notice some damage to a part



Maybe I should look to replace it as well
?!?


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decibolic



Again, being a pcb noob, should I be concerned with these traces? Or should I just replace them with wires?


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Belanger

#16
is its really worth all the effort, in the time it takes you to do all of this you could probably whip together a far superior pedal that doesn't have chong and melted capacitors

there's quite a few od's like the timmy that can be built in next to no time     it looks like even the black piece in the center is melted   im pretty new still but im going to guess it's some sort of voltage regular? lol no idea but it's damaged as well
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decibolic

Yeah. You are probably right. But it will be a good learning experience for me and possibly even fun. I just hate to throw $100 away. It was an expensive rent for the 7 hours of time I used it.
As Mickey Rooney once said "I've spent thousands of dollars trying to get back the first one I lost gambling".

But seriously. It's going to be a task to find a replacement. Cheap as it may have been to build I really like what this pedal does. I A/B'd a Timmy against it and liked this better. Greer makes a Lightspeed OD that holds my interest but I have yet to play one personally.


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decibolic

https://youtu.be/cf7J3_zozpY
If you can recommend a pedal that gets this sound please let me know


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Belanger

The best substitute for intelligence is silence