I want board mounted jack to be enclosure mounted.

Started by decibolic, December 23, 2016, 11:20:07 AM

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Belanger

if you want something easier to build I would look into ordering "the goat" from grind customs its a blues breaker PCB with some added goodies and no volume drop. it'll get you in the exact same territory   or there's the cerulean by AION electronics(amazing)  which is simple and gets a nice bluesy OD tone  I only recommend grind customs first because they don't charge shipping so if you're only ordering one  PCB or two it makes more sense (and there from Canada as am I)
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davent

I've always paid shipping with Grind Customs, calculated at checkout.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Belanger

#22
I've never paid shipping    are you outside of north America or did you order the ribbon cables   that's the only way you pay shipping I've heard of

it does say shipping to be calculated but when you check out the shipping it calculates is $0.00  I can post some receipts to prove it as well. odd why you have to pay shipping :o   are you buying a huge amount of boards maybe that's it. I just ordered two tight metals and two goats 5 mins ago and paid zero in shipping

Jesse
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davent

I take your word for it, last placed order i think was eight Lumen boards including chips which looks to negate free shipping.

If you don't already know there's a Grind Custom sub forum at Madbean forum.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?board=73.0

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Belanger

Thanks for that! I had no idea!   its hard to choose who to order from between grind and aion, there both such amazing companies and have really great owners. I try to do an even amount of orders from each so I don't feel guilty lol   
The best substitute for intelligence is silence

ElectricDruid

Quote from: decibolic on January 02, 2017, 08:47:04 PM
It wasn't until looking at your repost did I notice some damage to a part



Maybe I should look to replace it as well?!?

Easily done, catching something with a hot iron whilst you're poking around. Mostly it doesn't matter.

In this case, this seems fairly serious. I'd still go with "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" first though - get the jacks and power sorted and see how it sounds. If it's ok, fine. If not, then replace it - it's a box film cap and "105", so 1uF.

HTH,
Tom

ElectricDruid

Quote from: decibolic on January 02, 2017, 08:51:56 PM


Again, being a pcb noob, should I be concerned with these traces? Or should I just replace them with wires?

Neither of these look serious to me. Just the typical "board rash" you'd get from desoldering something.

Incidentally, on the shot of the bottom of the PCB, there's a bare link wire bottom left. Is that original or an addition?

HTH,
Tom

decibolic

Quote from: ElectricDruid on January 03, 2017, 02:56:17 AM
Quote from: decibolic on January 02, 2017, 08:51:56 PM


Again, being a pcb noob, should I be concerned with these traces? Or should I just replace them with wires?

Neither of these look serious to me. Just the typical "board rash" you'd get from desoldering something.

Incidentally, on the shot of the bottom of the PCB, there's a bare link wire bottom left. Is that original or an addition?

HTH,
Tom
I was more concerned with the traces than I was the desoldering rash in the 2 pictures.
The bare wire is an addition as one of the silver rings on the pcb came off with a trim pot.


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Belanger

#28
I'm amazed at their component selection in this pedal :o    probably because I despise people who use chong capacitors lol

looks like they used some 1SS133 diodes like the blues driver, really high forward voltage if I'm not mistaken so if you do end up building another pedal you should try them out itll probably help to achieve some of the tones you're looking for. it sounds pretty generic bluesy od so there's a ton of circuits you could use to get this sound   the diodes should help tho because they'll clip much less then the 1n4148

The best substitute for intelligence is silence

Belanger

#29
just be careful you check both sides of the PCB as well. obviously, this is only a concern with double sided PCB's such as this, a lot of the time there are multiple components you may need to run the link to.  do you have a schematic for it?  I noticed the pads are lifted around the pots as well. volume pot lug two appears to have lost the pads on both sides so it would need to be connected by link as well. I'm sure you already planned on doing that tho  :P

if you dont mind me asking, why did you remove the potentiometers? and did you use solder wick or a desoldering pump/iron


Quote from: decibolic on January 03, 2017, 03:52:26 AM
Quote from: ElectricDruid on January 03, 2017, 02:56:17 AM
Quote from: decibolic on January 02, 2017, 08:51:56 PM


Again, being a pcb noob, should I be concerned with these traces? Or should I just replace them with wires?

Neither of these look serious to me. Just the typical "board rash" you'd get from desoldering something.

Incidentally, on the shot of the bottom of the PCB, there's a bare link wire bottom left. Is that original or an addition?

HTH,
Tom
I was more concerned with the traces than I was the desoldering rash in the 2 pictures.
The bare wire is an addition as one of the silver rings on the pcb came off with a trim pot.


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The best substitute for intelligence is silence

decibolic

I removed them because at the end of the day I do t know that I want the new pots or the power jack or the I/o 1/4s to be attached to the board.

My dad, who was an electrical engineer for 25 years, used a wick.


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blackieNYC

Would another style of 1/4" jack fit? If it has a lower profile, width wise, it could be hand wired to the points on the board. A panel mount jack. You might not need to cut up your board.

Or maybe the very same jack. Sometimes a board-mounted jack takes up the same space when flipped upside down. After you cut the legs off, or as short as you can of course - leaving enough contact to solder a wire to.
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decibolic

#32
Should I keep going forward with this project I am going to make it more robust. While changing the electronics may alter the sound I can at least make the plug ports a better quality.

Some moments I feel like It's time to find a comparable pedal and be done with it but I love what this thing does and haven't found what it was based on or something that is the same.

Though at NAMM this year I finally played a Fryette Memphis 30/18. It is THE sound I've wanted. If I find one this project might be scrapped.

snarblinge

Don't give up,

just go with a larger enclosure, and upgrade the bits you want too.

It will be a most rewarding adventure, plus once it is all done, people will ask you all the time what it is, which is important wankfactor for any pedal board.

you can do it.

also, this in know way stops you buying more stuff..cant have too much gear
b.

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decibolic

So I resolve this issue the easier way. And by easier I mean buying another addition of this pedal. I found one where the input and output jacks are sidemounted, as is the power plug. I even have a return guarantee should there be any issues. So...


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