Best 1/4" jacks?

Started by xorophone, December 26, 2016, 07:22:18 PM

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Rob Strand

QuoteDo you want a configurable box that you can gig with, or a bench setup? Either way::
Those Wishboard brand breadboards are great.
I've had one of those for many years.  They have two conductive strips in each row of holes that splay out when you push the component.  Quite reliable connections.

I've also got a Faystar brand one, this on the other hand is a pile of junk (sold by Jaycar in Au).  It has a single conductive strip in each hole.  It's not even offset.  When you poke something in it just blocks the hole - extremely frustrating when you can even poke a new resistor in there (at all).  In fact you often end up with mangled legs.  One full moon I might go out the back yard, set it on fire and dance around it.  I'm not going to howl but there may be evil laughter.

Send:     . .- .-. - .... / - --- / --. --- .-. -
According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.

alanp

Quote from: EBK on December 28, 2016, 06:47:41 AM
QuoteOne other brand that may be noteworthy is Rean, which is Neutrik's "budget" brand - like Fender's Squire or Gibson's Epiphone. They are still of quite good quality, but at a reduced price thanks to being manufactured in the far-east. They may be worth considering if you're pinching-pennies.
I own a Squier Strat and a Squier J Bass.  I've installed Switchcraft jacks in both.  :icon_biggrin:

I've got a Squier VM strat for which I replaced the stock jack with a Switchcraft. The stock one was the cheapiest, shittiest jack I have EVER seen in my life -- el cheapo tayda 1/4" jacks included. I couldn't play the guitar out live with the stock jack -- if my hand went within a few centimeters of the cable, *CRACK* through the amp.

EBK

#22
Quote from: alanp on December 29, 2016, 02:13:23 AM
Quote from: EBK on December 28, 2016, 06:47:41 AM
QuoteOne other brand that may be noteworthy is Rean, which is Neutrik's "budget" brand - like Fender's Squire or Gibson's Epiphone. They are still of quite good quality, but at a reduced price thanks to being manufactured in the far-east. They may be worth considering if you're pinching-pennies.
I own a Squier Strat and a Squier J Bass.  I've installed Switchcraft jacks in both.  :icon_biggrin:

I've got a Squier VM strat for which I replaced the stock jack with a Switchcraft. The stock one was the cheapiest, shittiest jack I have EVER seen in my life -- el cheapo tayda 1/4" jacks included. I couldn't play the guitar out live with the stock jack -- if my hand went within a few centimeters of the cable, *CRACK* through the amp.
I recently resoldered a jack in a friend's Squier.  I feel bad in hindsight for not offering to replace it.  It was kind of like reattaching a severed gangrenous limb.   :icon_eek:
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Technical difficulties.  Please stand by.

banjerpickin

Has anyone tried the cheapo jacks from Mammoth?
https://www.mammothelectronics.com/collections/jacks/products/4sjk100m#

I just ordered 10 for the hell of it because I had a hefty discount code and was ordering a boatload of pre-drilled enclosures.  I will report back if they are any good.
Almost always testing Cunningham's law.

davepedals

#24
...
dave

davepedals

Thanks, gonna built a custom testing "jig" after vacation!
dave

xorophone

#26
Thanks everyone! Switchcraft seems to be the way to go if you want something reliable. I'll have to order some.

Tell me if I should start a new thread for this, but which 3pdt footswitches do you recommend? I've got some cheap chinese 3pdt switches too and they work fine, but they feel horrible to press so I'd never want to use one in a pedal I sell or give away.

From my experience, components like resistors and capacitors from china seem to work fine, but you should generally stay away from the "mechanical" components and chips. I have never had any personal bad experience with chips from China, but I still stay away from them just in case.

thermionix

#27
Quote from: xorophone on December 30, 2016, 09:58:37 AM
Thanks everyone! Switchcraft seems to be the way to go if you want something reliable. I'll have to order some.

Tell me if I should start a new thread for this, but which 3pdt footswitches do you recommend? I've got some cheap chinese 3pdt switches too and they work fine, but they feel horrible to press so I'd never want to use one in a pedal I sell or give away.

From my experience, components like resistors and capacitors from china seem to work fine, but you should generally stay away from the "mechanical" components and chips. I have never had any personal bad experience with chips from China, but I still stay away from them just in case.

Sounds like you're on the right track.  I'm still in the "trial and error" phase when it comes to 3PDT.  My first one (the common blue type) came with a kit from BYOC back in 2009 or so.  Within months of gentle indoor use, it started going funky.  I found some at Mammoth that they described as "industrial grade" and I bought a couple of those.  A bit smaller than the blue ones, and black.  Still going strong, one with about 6 years of use and the other about 3.

Last time I checked, Mammoth wasn't carrying those anymore.  Bummer.  Then I found these at Small Bear:

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/low-profile-3pdt-switch/

They don't describe them as "industrial grade" but as "low profile."  I ordered one and put it in a build a couple months ago.  It looks just a little different from the ones I got from Mammoth, but definitely came from the same manufacturer.  Still too new to know if it will last as long.  My philosophy for the time being is to just expect failure, and build with easy access to the switch to make replacement less of a pain.

smallbearelec

Quote from: thermionix on December 30, 2016, 12:16:20 PM
I found these at Small Bear:

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/low-profile-3pdt-switch/

Still too new to know if it will last as long.

For the "standard" size stompers, you can't go wrong with either CIC or Taiwan Alpha.

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/cic-blue-3pdt/
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-sf17020f-0302-3pdt/

I charge a little more than some competitors. However, you get the assurance of a recognized brand with a long record of reliability.

I bought a smaller lot of these low-profile parts, and they seem to be holding up so far.

xorophone

Quote from: thermionix on December 30, 2016, 12:16:20 PM
Quote from: xorophone on December 30, 2016, 09:58:37 AM
Thanks everyone! Switchcraft seems to be the way to go if you want something reliable. I'll have to order some.

Tell me if I should start a new thread for this, but which 3pdt footswitches do you recommend? I've got some cheap chinese 3pdt switches too and they work fine, but they feel horrible to press so I'd never want to use one in a pedal I sell or give away.

From my experience, components like resistors and capacitors from china seem to work fine, but you should generally stay away from the "mechanical" components and chips. I have never had any personal bad experience with chips from China, but I still stay away from them just in case.

Sounds like you're on the right track.  I'm still in the "trial and error" phase when it comes to 3PDT.  My first one (the common blue type) came with a kit from BYOC back in 2009 or so.  Within months of gentle indoor use, it started going funky.  I found some at Mammoth that they described as "industrial grade" and I bought a couple of those.  A bit smaller than the blue ones, and black.  Still going strong, one with about 6 years of use and the other about 3.

Last time I checked, Mammoth wasn't carrying those anymore.  Bummer.  Then I found these at Small Bear:

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/low-profile-3pdt-switch/

They don't describe them as "industrial grade" but as "low profile."  I ordered one and put it in a build a couple months ago.  It looks just a little different from the ones I got from Mammoth, but definitely came from the same manufacturer.  Still too new to know if it will last as long.  My philosophy for the time being is to just expect failure, and build with easy access to the switch to make replacement less of a pain.
Quote from: smallbearelec on December 30, 2016, 03:26:37 PM

For the "standard" size stompers, you can't go wrong with either CIC or Taiwan Alpha.

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/cic-blue-3pdt/
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-sf17020f-0302-3pdt/

I charge a little more than some competitors. However, you get the assurance of a recognized brand with a long record of reliability.

I bought a smaller lot of these low-profile parts, and they seem to be holding up so far.

Great! I might order some different types sometime and try them out. I'll probably still use the cheap ones for smaller projects for myself (my economy is very limited).

Rob Strand

QuoteFor the "standard" size stompers, you can't go wrong with either CIC or Taiwan Alpha.
I recommended you to one of my colleagues because the local suppliers sell junk.
Send:     . .- .-. - .... / - --- / --. --- .-. -
According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.