Getting that glossy finish from rattle can clear coat?

Started by runmikeyrun, August 04, 2017, 12:48:34 PM

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runmikeyrun

How can I tell what type of spray paint I have in a can if it doesn't specify?  Can I go by the types of solvents listed on the can?  My clear coat has acetone and xylene. 


Ham fisting my way through one build to the next since 2003. 
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davent

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EBK

Quote from: R.G. on August 04, 2017, 06:49:03 PM
Really glossy, glass-flat finishes require either (very) special paint and techniques, or rubbing out and polishing the paint after many layers.
I've successfully achieved what I'd call a micro-textured gloss by polishing the enclosure with a set of 3M polishing paper.  As I was smoothing things out with the coarsest texture paper, a miniature Dirty Harry was sitting on my shoulder saying, "Do you feel lucky, punk?"  At some point, I lost my nerve to sand deeper and progressed through the various grits.  I figured "mirror gloss" was for envirotex, not spray acrylic.  Anyway, I'm satisfied.  I should probably post a pic....
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navin

Lovely work gents.

I am in the process of making a pedal too. My first. It is a fuzz and to make it simple I ordered (Gherkin and Foxxtave)  kits from fuzzdog pedals. This is the build.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=117904.msg1101806#msg1101806

I cannot find water slide decals in India so I am thinking of using self adhesive sticker paper (inkjet) and then clear coat on top of it. Is this advisable. See link below for the paper I intend to use.
http://www.amazon.in/Colorite-Adhesive-180gsm-sheets-Inkjet/dp/B01LSSJA0I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502878057&sr=8-5&keywords=self+adhesive+inkjet+paper

I have send the box to a vendor for sanding and powder coating (black - glossy) and am expecting it back early next week. On top of this black box I intend to stick the sticker paper and then clear coat the box to protect the image (see below - I am still debating between a white and a yellow font for the lettering). One the sticker is set I will cut the holes out with an exacto knife.



EBK

Sticker paper will probably work, but do a test on something other than your enclosure first.  Apply a few mist coats of the clear first as a fixative to prevent your colors from bleeding and to prevent your sticker from soaking through and possibly wrinkling later.  A large sticker will be harder to lay down correctly than a decal, of course (you only get one shot at it).  Sticker paper is also much thicker than decals, so don't expect the edges to disappear (make sure you cut them very cleanly).

Maybe consider decoupage....
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GGBB

No actual experience with the sticker paper, but I would worry that it won't hold up to abuse very well being paper based (even with a top coat), and about how it responds to being top coated. Consider vinyl decal paper as an alternative.
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navin

Quote from: GGBB on August 16, 2017, 07:18:16 AM
No actual experience with the sticker paper, but I would worry that it won't hold up to abuse very well being paper based (even with a top coat), and about how it responds to being top coated. Consider vinyl decal paper as an alternative.

Yes EBK, I have 20 sheets so I do intend to test print on some other sheets of powder coated metal first. So I should apply a mist of clear coat BEFORE I apply the paper? I will keep that in mind.

GGBB.
Will this work better?
http://www.amazon.in/Grafix-Inkjet-Matte-11-Inch-6-Pack/dp/B0084Z4P0Y/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=office&ie=UTF8&qid=1502891954&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=transpaent%2Bsticker%2Bpaper&th=1

OR this
http://www.amazon.in/Silhouette-Printable-Clear-Sticker-Paper/dp/B00B9Q9QY0?_encoding=UTF8&portal-device-attributes=desktop&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1JBMJTTJQ09FC

I could not find vinyl decal paper.

EBK

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Hatredman



Quote from: navin on August 16, 2017, 06:16:04 AM

I cannot find water slide decals in India ...

Online?




--
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Kirk Hammet invented the Burst Box.

karbomusic

#29
I think 5 minutes is too long for "dusting coats" that should be more like a minute or less so that it reactivates the previous coat and prevents the orange peel look. That's how I do it anyway and I've never gotten that texture pictured above.

Thick coats run the risk of never fully curing (though it seems like it did), even if baking in an oven because there is no where for the underlying chemicals that need to evaporate to go.

EBK

Quote from: karbomusic on August 16, 2017, 12:26:20 PM
I think 5 minutes is too long for "dusting coats" that should be more like a minute or less so that it reactivates the previous coat and prevents the orange peel look. That's how I do it anyway and I've never gotten that texture pictured above.

Thick coats run the risk of never fully curing (though it seems like it did), even if baking in an oven because there is no where for the underlying chemicals that need to evaporate to go.
I think I chose 5 minutes to overcompensate for my partially uncured result from the past.  I have very very few days where the weather cooperates, and I wanted to avoid having to redo this.  For my next attempt, I'll probably go with dust coats spaced 1 minute (or less) apart, as suggested, and see how it looks.
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karbomusic

I'd be curious how it works out for you Eric. I was just looking at old pics of pedals and you guessed it, I can't remember which ones I used which process on. :( To be fair, when I switched to dusting lots of coats quickly, it wasn't about the resulting look of the finish at the time (it was more about curing), so I can't be sure that prevents orange peel other than I know my pedals aren't near as much as pictured above.

vigilante397

Quote from: EBK on August 16, 2017, 12:47:39 PM
I have very very few days where the weather cooperates, and I wanted to avoid having to redo this.

There's a lot to he said for that as well. Where I'm at it's usually around 110 degrees (Fahrenheit of course) and 5-10% humidity. Everything I've painted here has turned out brilliant. 8)
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deadastronaut

get a toaster oven,

forget dust coats, they can cause orange peel...(smooth going onto rough)

give it a healthy coat, then whip it straight into the hot oven....let cool,

coat again...in oven...if you still get peel, wet soapy sand with 1200 grade wet n dry

and buff with t-cut.(slighty abrasive car polish).(but you shouldn't have to if you get a good even coat or 2.)

when baked the can clear goes very hard. and shiney. don't  over do the oven timing..

do a test with the base plate.. :icon_idea:



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BetterOffShred

Yeah man, the toaster oven is boss, and testing with a base plate is also a pro tip!  I usually block sand my raw boxes a little bit just to make sure they aren't grossly wavy on the top, you'll know if they are, and I always prime with flat white 2x to give me some visual indication of high/low spots. 
-Brett

Kipper4

I use vinyl inkjet sticker paper. Self adhesive.
I print then clear coat the print out to fix the colour immediately.
A mist coat will do. I'm using rustloium clear coat, not affiliated with and brands.
At the same time I print of a low ink std a4 copier paper drilling template.
Guillotine the template. Fix with cellotape to the enclosure.
Drill then prep for finishing.
Ensure to remove tape residue.
Alcohol wipe ,allow to dry.
Squeegees the sticker on. Easy for me to say I've been working with paper for the last 23yrs.
Start mist then go a bit more and so on allowing to dry between clear coats.
This may be climatic dependant.

Do not be tempted to clear coat the box before applying the sticker.
It will just sit on top of the coat until it peels off ,clear coat and all.

Using this method I've had some pedals a couple of years old with bedroom use in great shape.

Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
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Tony Forestiere

#36
Not spray can, but I ran across this thing. Appears to be a process composite DIY sticker with an adhesive backing and a "clear" protective cover. I can't tell how cloudy the final image looks under the top laminate from the YT vids.  Has anyone a crafty person that uses this product?
https://www.staples.com/Grafix-Rub-Onz-Transfer-Film-pack-of-25-sheets/product_1722408
Candid How-To. Different Media application, but really doesn't look more labor intensive than any other "sticker" application.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ap3OiC8BCA0

edit ***Gord exposed the "white flaw" for this product. Paint your box tops white?
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GGBB

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EBK

Here's a pic of where I am at currently with the finish on my enclosure.  I will probably give it another round with the polishing papers. 

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navin

Quote from: GGBB on August 16, 2017, 07:11:37 PM

http://www.amazon.in/Silhouette-Printable-Clear-Sticker-Paper/dp/B00B9Q9QY0?_encoding=UTF8&portal-device-attributes=desktop&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1JBMJTTJQ09FC


Plus it is clear not white so your pedal colour will show through meaning white parts of the image don't look white.

This looks like it will work: http://www.amazon.in/NEW-Cricut-Printable-Vinyl-Pkg-White/dp/B00NMCU9ZO

Thanks.

My pedal is powder coated black and the decal was going to go on top of the black box. Also since most of my decal is printed (there are no parts that are not coloured) it really should not make a difference if the paper is transparent or white should it?

I did find this as well. It is cheaper than the "LaserTran" sheets that EBK linked to below.
http://www.amazon.in/Testor-Corp-9201-Decal-Paper/dp/B000BLI6QS/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=04ZGHW52W1ESW49YMECF

Kipper4, could you post a picture of the "Self adhesive vinyl inkjet sticker paper" that you use. Thanks.