tagboardeffects Triple Wreck boost question

Started by m37a, September 03, 2017, 04:42:34 PM

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m37a

Hi, I am just about done with my 2nd build (a triple wreck clone) following this layout http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/10/wampler-triple-wreck.html. The main board works but the boost doesn't seem to increase the volume any, or even change the tone much. I am double checking all my wiring but

Does anyone know what the correct voltages for the 2N5089 should be?

I am getting:
C = .29v
B = .76v
E =  .19v

These values seem really low? I have checked the power to the board (9v), and checked over the vero for any shorts but havent found any.

Any help would be appriciated!

Cozybuilder

Did you make the cut under the 2k2 current limiting resistor?
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

m37a

Yes, the voltage is 9.4v on the near side of the resister (Source) and 2.7v on the far side (LED).

Cozybuilder

It would be helpful if you posted clear photos of your build, both sides of the board. There is obviously a problem with the wiring or components around the Collector- maybe the collector resistor is 470K or 4M7 rather than 47K? The emitter and base voltages look about right.

Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

m37a

Here are some pictures. https://imgur.com/a/svYCt

I assum that the transister would need a bias voltage about half of the supply.

When I use an audio probe the audio leaving the transister is distorted and quieter than the source.

Cozybuilder

The resistor values look right, go to the right holes, same with the caps, electro is right orientation. I don't see any obvious shorts, the solder joints look OK. I suspect the transistor is the problem.
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

antonis

Unsolder 2N5089, solder a 3-pin socket and try a NEW 2N5089...

(that BJT seems to be BLR..)  :icon_wink:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

m37a

I did try another transister. Could I have a bad batch? These are from Tayda. 

What does BLR mean?

duck_arse

.... and welcome to the forum.

I think your track cuts might need some attention, there seems to be some copper threads around those cut-holes, which might be shorting. get an exacto knife and a big magnifier, and clean the little copper crescents out. then measure your resistances across the cuts.

the transistor in yr 1st and 3rd pics looks like a moulding half-shot, like a manufacturer would/should reject. but then it appears okey-dokey in the other pics, so maybe a lighting trick. does your meter have a transistor tester socket on? you can throw the rest of your batch on and test for not/good.
You hold the small basket while I strain the gnat.

Cozybuilder

Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

m37a

lol fair enough :)

I was also concerned about the tracks and the drilled holes. I traced over all of them to check for any shorts but did not find any (I had this problem on the main board so lesson learned the hard way :)). I have also gone down the tracks with a sharp knife to clean up.

My DMM has a transister testing adapter, but apparently this model doesn't actually support testing transisters that way (UNI-T UT61E).


antonis

"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Kipper4

LPB with tonestack.

Probably could benefit from some power supply smoothing.

I'd stick a 20k pot wired as a variable resistor in the place of the 10k.

Just my 2pence.

Rich
Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/

m37a

#13
okay, I tried recreating this boost circuit from scratch on a breadboard and am still having the same problem. There is an effect when I rotate the potentiometer, it acts almost like a presence knob, but there is a drop in volume from the original source signal. Also, the output signal sounds more distorted than the source.

I also tried swapping the 2N5089 for 2N3904 which are the only other NPN transisters I have on hand. I know these work because I used them in a tube screamer clone.

Breadboard:


The voltage on the collector has gone up from my original test. It seems to fluctuate between 2.4v and 4.5v.

Voltages:
C = 2.4v
B = .8v
E = .15v

m37a

okay now I am confused (not that I wasn't to begin with)...
I spent some time on the breadboard messing with this. I found that if I replaced the 47k with a 100ohm resister, and connected the circuit to the emitter instead of the collector the audio is clear and there seems to be a volume boost.

Here is an updated schematic:


New transister voltages:
C 4.9v
B 2.2v
E 1.5v

The problem is I am pretty sure I am exceeding the current rating for the 1/4w 100ohm resister.

Hopefully someone much smarter than me can shed some light on here :)


Cozybuilder

I mis-marked the polarity on the electro, the positive side should go to the collector  :icon_redface:
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

m37a

Quote from: Cozybuilder on September 04, 2017, 08:45:53 PM
I mis-marked the polarity on the electro, the positive side should go to the collector  :icon_redface:

Good catch. I wired it with + towards the collector though, so that wasn't the problem.

Cozybuilder

Quote from: m37a on September 04, 2017, 03:08:36 PM
okay, I tried recreating this boost circuit from scratch on a breadboard and am still having the same problem. There is an effect when I rotate the potentiometer, it acts almost like a presence knob, but there is a drop in volume from the original source signal. Also, the output signal sounds more distorted than the source.

I also tried swapping the 2N5089 for 2N3904 which are the only other NPN transisters I have on hand. I know these work because I used them in a tube screamer clone.

Breadboard:


The voltage on the collector has gone up from my original test. It seems to fluctuate between 2.4v and 4.5v.

Voltages:
C = 2.4v
B = .8v
E = .15v

Is the 1M on the base connected to +9? Its hard to tell on the BB. I would also measure the potential at each end of the power strip, some of them are split in the middle, causing all kinds of grief.
Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

m37a

Apparently when I took the picture it wasn't  :icon_redface:. But I just double checked and it is connected to 9v. I also confirmed with my voltmeter.

antonis

#19
Quote from: m37a on September 04, 2017, 07:04:43 PM
I found that if I replaced the 47k with a 100ohm resister, and connected the circuit to the emitter instead of the collector the audio is clear and there seems to be a volume boost.
Ahaaaaa...  :icon_twisted:

(you're the only person I know who managed to get boost from an Emitter follower...) :icon_biggrin:

I'm pretty sure that you mismatched some items..

According to your revised scheme (Emitter follower), you should take:
about 800mV on Base
about 150mV on Emitter (resulting in 150μΑ Collector current)
about 9V on Collector (actually, about 15mV lower than your actual PS voltage)

P.S.
1/4W 100R resistor shouldn't bother you..
(with 150μΑ current it should be rated in the micro-watts area (μW)..
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..