true bypassing a Phase 90

[jdps150]

Going to get a new MXR phase 90.
Will do the 'script' mods, and want to true bypass it.

Any documentation on how to TB it?

TIA

[bwanasonic]

If it's built like the other Dunlop reissue pedals I've seen, it's going to be a major PITA if you want to keep it in the original enclosure. Not DIY friendly at all. The jacks and switch are mounted directly to the board, making just getting the thing out of the box a headache. Once you have it apart, check the wiring diagrams for TB at generalguitargadgets:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/v2/index.php?option=html&file=instructions/switching_all.htm&Itemid=51&op=page&SubMenu=

Compare your pedal with the two examples of *non-true bypass* (probably NTB with input unbypassed) and figure which leads are which (input, output, grnd, etc). Then use the diagram for the bypass scheme you want.

Good luck fitting a 3PDT in there. I'm pretty sure it can be done, but not easily.

Kerry M

[Davefx]

I'm really sure that Dunlop are making them TB already. Not 100% tho.

[Davefx]

Oh!!  What are these "script mods" you speak of, TIA? Sounds interesting..

[jdps150]

Here is a post from the LPF
I plan on getting one to mod & for True Bypass
***
I've now finished A/Bing with all three possible changes and have some useful conclusions.

R28 - Cutting this cuts the amount of regeneration to a sensible level and reduces the distortion a bit. You still have to be gentle on your pick attack with a clean sound. However, this mod gets you straight to the 70s Little Feat sound on clean(ish) sounds.

C11 and C12 - As these are pre-emphasis and de-emphasis in part of the noise reduction circuitry, they should both be removed. Tone becomes more even and much less sensitive to pick attack related distortion. The Phase 90 sounds warmer smoother and classier. There is a slight downside. There is a noticeable increase in hiss if used before a heavily overdriven amp but I can't believe it would be any problem at all at any setting you wouild actually want to use. I just used high gain to make the hiss show up.

For those who wondered removing just C11 (de-emphasis) leaves the effect sounding more muffled as if a tone control had been eased back. It also produces less hiss than standard. Some of you may find a use for this sound.

Removing just C12 gives spiky, extra hissy, easily pick attack distorted yuk!

BTW none of the mods affected the slight pulsing thump. It is there all the time, no real problem.

For me it has to be do all 3. Hope this helps.

Yelly
****

[jdps150]

Thanks for the link.
Was looking for which components are the buffer, & where the best spot to wire the 'in & outs'.

I'll get the 3DPT in there, prolly have to cut the board.
Just up my alley.  

[Basstyra]

Hello,

I am sure, absolutely sure, that I allready saw here a drawing or a schematic showing how to exactly connect a 3pdt to true bypass the Phase 90. If someone could help me find this again, or make a photo of the inside of his own true bypassed phase 90... I know I can do it myself, but it's a double sided board, it's hard to figure out what to do whitout desoldering lot of stuff... Which I'll do if there isn't other solution.

I got the new Phase 90, it is about 2 years old.

Thanks !

[Basstyra]

Yup !

Nobody can help ? I know I can make it myself but I don't want to do something that can arm my pedal, and I don't know exactly how things are connected inside (damn double sided board..).

[TheBigMan]

There was a picture floating around that showed all of the connections.  You'll have to cut the board to fit in a 3PDT, and cut a trace that hardwires the effect input to the input jack.  If you do a search on Phase 90 true bypass I'm sure you'll find it.

[R.G.]

This keeps coming up over and over.

(a) The simplest way to true bypass any pedal is to use an external bypass box. This does not harm your pedal in any way, and preserves its originality - if that is important at all.
(b) True bypass is only an issue with non-buffered input pedals or otherwise poorly designed pedals. Pedals with good input buffers do not suck tone in any detectable way.
(c) Non-TB commercial pedals are in general quite difficult to convert to TB internally because the physical design is not often amenable to the changes to the switch.

[Basstyra]

There was a picture floating around that showed all of the connections.  You'll have to cut the board to fit in a 3PDT, and cut a trace that hardwires the effect input to the input jack.  If you do a search on Phase 90 true bypass I'm sure you'll find it.

I know that picture, searched the forum hundreds of time and couldn't find it again. But well, I'll try to do otherwise.

RG : the Phase 90 bypass sucks, really.

[TheBigMan]

PM me your email addy, I've got the pic on my hard drive.

[Joe Hart]

TheBigMan, could I get the picture, too?
-Joe Hart

[Mark Hammer]

This keeps coming up over and over.

(a) The simplest way to true bypass any pedal is to use an external bypass box. This does not harm your pedal in any way, and preserves its originality - if that is important at all.
(b) True bypass is only an issue with non-buffered input pedals or otherwise poorly designed pedals. Pedals with good input buffers do not suck tone in any detectable way.
(c) Non-TB commercial pedals are in general quite difficult to convert to TB internally because the physical design is not often amenable to the changes to the switch.

When he's right, folks, he's right.  And in this case, he is 110% right.
In some respects, I understand the zeal that some people feel about instantly "improving" a pedal they have acquired.  And if all they know how to do is swap switches, fine, it's a starting point.  I give them full marks for enthusiasm and DIY gusto.

At the same time, folks should all keep in mind that "true bypass" emerged as a solution to a problem from the 60's and 70's.  Since that time, manufacturers and designers, bless their pointed little heads, have learned a great deal about designing pedals "properly".  If all your gear comes from that era, there may well be something to grapple with, but in general, all other issues aside (e.g., personal preference for tactile feedback when switching, desire to have nonlatching switches or remote switching, prophylaxis for worst-case scenarios like battery death, etc.), if a pedal is of recent issue, it probably has just the right sort of switching it needs.  If you reach a point where you have 12 pedals on a pedalboard, well maybe it IS time to rethink your switching arrangements, but if you're a fuzz/wah/chorus kinda person, I wouldn't sweat the switching stuff.

[TheBigMan]

Found the thread where the pic is:-
http://www.diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=33169&highlight=

[Joe Hart]

Very cool. Thanks!! It looks like a bit of work, but I think I'll give it a go. Thanks again!!!!!
-Joe Hart

[vanhansen]

This keeps coming up over and over.

(a) The simplest way to true bypass any pedal is to use an external bypass box. This does not harm your pedal in any way, and preserves its originality - if that is important at all.
(b) True bypass is only an issue with non-buffered input pedals or otherwise poorly designed pedals. Pedals with good input buffers do not suck tone in any detectable way.
(c) Non-TB commercial pedals are in general quite difficult to convert to TB internally because the physical design is not often amenable to the changes to the switch.

When he's right, folks, he's right.  And in this case, he is 110% right.
In some respects, I understand the zeal that some people feel about instantly "improving" a pedal they have acquired.  And if all they know how to do is swap switches, fine, it's a starting point.  I give them full marks for enthusiasm and DIY gusto.

At the same time, folks should all keep in mind that "true bypass" emerged as a solution to a problem from the 60's and 70's.  Since that time, manufacturers and designers, bless their pointed little heads, have learned a great deal about designing pedals "properly".  If all your gear comes from that era, there may well be something to grapple with, but in general, all other issues aside (e.g., personal preference for tactile feedback when switching, desire to have nonlatching switches or remote switching, prophylaxis for worst-case scenarios like battery death, etc.), if a pedal is of recent issue, it probably has just the right sort of switching it needs.  If you reach a point where you have 12 pedals on a pedalboard, well maybe it IS time to rethink your switching arrangements, but if you're a fuzz/wah/chorus kinda person, I wouldn't sweat the switching stuff.

I agree 150%.   A crybaby without the buffers is a good idea to make TB, such is the case with mine which is now TB.  I would never butcher my Phase 90 when it doesn't need to be.  Building the TB box is the easiest, least risky, least expensive, and most proven method to work.  Sure, it's another box on the board but it's worth it considering the cost of replacing a butchered pedal.

When building circuits, TB all that is necessary, plus it's simple to do when making your own.

[Basstyra]

Yep, I agree with this, I must say. I AB-test the bypass of all my pedal before thinking of a true bypass mod (with a Boss LS-2, a buffered unit...). I'll never true bypass my Jacques Tubeblower or Trinity, or my TC Chorus, they all have good input buffer. But this Phase 90 really sucked to my ears.

I did the mod today, all was fine except a broken track I cut to make room for the switch, I add to add a wire to fix it.

After having done that, I must say I am quite satisfied, but I would not do this any time, it's boring. And I don't have "poc" problems at the switching, but I'm not sure such a problem will not emerge some day.

[Joe Hart]

I have to agree with Basstyra, I do hear some tone sucking with the Phase 90 and some of my other pedals. But then I read what Mark Hammer, R.G., and vanhansen have to say and I just don't know. I mean, I hear one thing, then these three leading lights of the DIY Stompbox community say (essentially) that I'm wrong. And I'm not being sarcastic. If any of these three said a Fuzz Face was a type of delay pedal, I would play my FF and really wonder about everything that I thought was right! I just don't know.

And don't give me that "trust your ears" thing. I do, but these guys know WAY more that I do.

Hmmm...

-Joe Hart

[Fret Wire]

It's pretty simple. The reissue Phase 90 does tone suck badly, no doubt. It also has low quality jacks and pot which do not stand up to constant use very long before they start going intermitant. TB'ing a Phase 90 reissue is enough work as it is to waste on a pedal that may not last too long. Not to mention that you can't easily script mod a reissue...it's more than R28 everybody. The work to reward ratio just doesnt cut it on that pedal.

With a reissue 90, I'd stick with the R28 mod, C11 & C12 mods (if you want mellow), volume mod, and Led change, and re-calibrating. Beyond those simple mods, it's easier to build your own Phase 90 that's true bypass and script logo from the beginning.