More stupid questions from me. Sorry

[cobainlives_05]

I'm planning on making my first pedal and this is what I have in mind, but i have a few questions.

http://www.tonepad.com/getFileInfo.asp?id=36
(Download the file, PDF)

-Is the Red (Ra) a LED?
-How do I wire the inputs?
-How and where do i put the switch for true bypass?
-Can I use that blue stuff to etch the board, is there an easier way?

Thanks, Sorry for so many questions.

[Samuel]

No questions are stupid when it comes to this stuff. It can be a bit opaque when you're getting started.

Ra is not an LED, it is a resistor. It is marked in red because it does not have a set value. Check the parts list below the layout - it lists Ra as being between 100 and 300 ohms, and is designed to lower the gain of one of the transistors. 220 ohm might be a nice compromise to start with. You can swap out later if you're not happy with it.

I found the easiest way to figure out the bypass switching and jack wiring was to look at a bunch of layouts on JD Sleep's site: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com . Just open up any of his parts layouts for any of the projects and it'll have a true bypass wiring scheme. Take a little while to study it, and it'll suddenly make sense. The import part is understanding how the DPDT stomp switch works. There are two rows of three poles each. At each of the two positions of the switch, two seperate groups of two poles each will be connected. Take a look at JD's layouts and you'll get a good idea. His layouts also show the jack wiring, so they should help with that too.

The one weird thing about how he shows jacks wired has to do with the stereo jack used for input. You'll see a ground wire running from the battery through the ring connector of the jack, and another coming out of the sleeve connector and going to the ground trace of the circuit board. Basically, when you plug in a mono guitar cable, it connects the ring and sleeve connectors together, completing the ground wire and turning the battery on. This way you don't have to take the battery out everytime you finish with the pedal, just unplug it.

The *easiest* way to etch a circuit board is actually just to draw the layout with a sharpie permanent marker. I say easiest cause this requires the fewest steps, and the least amount of equipment. However, it's hard to use a felt tip marker to draw this accurately, and some components require you to be accurate about distances between pads, like transistors, and definitely integrated circuits. Sharpie is also tricky because you have to make sure you lay the ink very thick to completely block the etchant. Let each pass dry and then put down a second or even third coat.

The press n peel is pretty easy, only requires a copier and a clothes iron, but is liable to take a little practice. The main trouble I've found is finding the right temperature for the iron, so that it heats the board enough to make the toner stick, but doesn't melt the plastic backing! Also, it is *very* important to let the board cool before peeling the PnP off of it, or the toner won't completely transfer.

I would say use Press n Peel. I've tried the photo process, and its great, but its more equipment, you have to work in semi-darkness, and there's more chemicals involved.

A tip: Once you've made your PnP transfer, very very carefully inspect the board before you etch it. If there are any incomplete traces, you can go over them with a Sharpie to touch up. Remember to put down two coats!

Good luck, and welcome to the hobby!

[cobainlives_05]

Thankyou so much for your time.  This is starting to make sense, and when i actually get into doing it, it will make more sense.  One question that still stands is, can I put an LED in to show that the effect is on?  And if so, where would it go and what value would be used?

[cobainlives_05]

Also, are the DPTP (is that right) switches with the 6 prongs work upside down, like if i wired it opposite of what it shows?

[Samuel]

Yeah the DPDT (that's short for "Double Pole Double Throw") will work upside down. There's no "up" really. OK imagine the each "." is a pole. The bottom of the switch looks like this:

. .
. .
. .

Now imagine that an "x" marks the first two connections, and "o" marks the second two. In the first position, the switch is connected like this:

xo
xo
. .

Where x is connected to x and o is connected to o.
So the top left is connected the one below it, and the same on the right. When you hit the switch, it looks like this:

. .
xo
xo

So as you see, top to bottom really doesn't matter, the switch is just changing connections up and down.

As to the LED thing, that's a little tricky. Look around for the Millenium 2 Bypass circuit, it will allow you to place an LED using a DPDT switch, otherwise you need to get a 3PDT switch, and use the extra set of poles to connect and disconnect the LED. If this is your first circuit you might want to leave this out for the time being, because you can always add it later.

[petemoore]

that are simultaneously activated
 working with SPDT is like: TOT  spelled backwards...

[bwanasonic]

-Can I use that blue stuff to etch the board, is there an easier way?

I would say the easier way is to use pad-per-hole perfboard. I have had good luck with it in my limited effects building experience. I would look at etching/drilling as something to work towards with more complex projects. Check the forum index for the NPN boost project for a good overview on building with perf.

Kerry M

[petemoore]

I just did some [first] PCB projects.
 One thinh I notice is that when you work with perf you can get 'inside' the ckt and get a much better idea of what goes where, how it's coneected.
 Using PCB's is all color by number, without looking at the schematic, it's hard to tell what's going on ckt wise.
 I developed perf layouts as soon as I started using it from schematics and I think this really helped me get better aquanted with ckt connections, and backround knowledge for comparing ckts in the future.

[gtrmac]

Thje easiest way to make the pedal is to buy a Ready To Solder PCB from Tonepad. I find it worthwhile myself. Then I don't have to think about messing around with corrosive chemicals in my house.

It's bad enough trying to paint the damn boxes with my wife and kids complaining about the smell!

[Mark Hammer]

Normally, I'd recommend using perfboard and simple projects for first-time builds, but if it is too complicated for a perf-board build then buying a finished PCB is the smart move to pursue - there are just too many ways to go wrong making a PCB oneself for the first time.  

A number of us here who have been pursuing the DIY route for more years than you've probably been alive started out with mail-order kits that included finished PCBs.  I will give my full endorsement to any of the pedal kits that PAiA (http://www.paia.com/guitarfx.htm) produces.  You can buy PCBs from a number of folks here, but PAiA has put in the extra work with respect to assembly guide development and that makes a big difference when starting out.  They also provide decent phone support and have almost 30 years practice in doing so.

[Samuel]

I started with PCB, and it worked out really well for me, but I also had a very serious photography background, so I was comfortable with liquid chemistry, etc.

[smoguzbenjamin]

I'm still a beginner, but the theory behind it has come to me and I mostly understand it. Because of my lack of funds (yes I am poor and young!)I haven't built much

I've built two or three things on perf, one being the NPN boost from the beginner forum. I also built a silly LED flip-flopper and a device that could switch between something like 7 outputs using a momentary SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switch. I also think that when you begin, you've got to think of what you want.

Do you want to know a circuit inside-out and get a very firm grip on how electronics work, try some perf projects like the ones from www.runoffgroove.com which gives perf layouts as well as schematics to make things easy:)

If you want a quick DIY effect get a premade PCB To be honest I don't like PCB's. Too much of a factory-made feeling to it, perf feels more DIY to me

good luck with building!

[cobainlives_05]

Thanks, i have the parts and will be starting construction soon, I'll keep you posted and probly have some more questions along the way.