first experience with presensitized boards

[Brian Marshall]

I ordereda few boards from circuit specialist, and etchant tank, and 2 liters of etchant, and some developer.

I had been having Mike Romera make my boards for the stupid box, but it was getting costly.  $100 for 20 boards.  Reasonable, but not really cost effective for me.  I really want to have some cash in my hand some day for all the work i am doing.

Total cost for all itmes was under $100, and there are enough supplies to make about 70 or 80 boards.

Anyways, my first board i made was fouled up, because i actually forgot to buy the developer, and didnt realize it until after i exposed it.

My 2nd board was too cramped, and poorly planned, but the image came out perfect with an inkjet tranparency. even the super fine traces i used.

3rd time was a charm, and much better plan all arround.

i fit 5 of my new design on a 4x6 board.  I cant belive the detal you can do with this stuff. way way better than toner transfer.  

I highly rec omend

[Fret Wire]

It worked with an inkjet?

[Brian Marshall]

It worked with an inkjet?

yes, it isnt press and peel, or iron on.  the transparency is used just like in silkscreening.

[gez]

It worked with an inkjet?

You can use normal transparencies with an inkjet if you cover the transpareny with a sheet of tracing/baking paper when developing.  This makes it opaque enough to give good, consistent results.

Nice one Brian!  I'm one of those few who enjoy making PCBs too.  

[Brian Marshall]

It worked with an inkjet?

You can use normal transparencies with an inkjet if you cover the transpareny with a sheet of tracing/baking paper when developing.  This makes it opaque enough to give good, consistent results.

Nice one Brian!  I'm one of those few who enjoy making PCBs too.  

i really like it when they come out all pretty and stuff.  i hate perf board. although i always keeps some arround just incase.  my first pcb was made with a sharpy, and had 3 broken traces.... this is way better, and not that expensive.


In general, i would rather use a PCB, especially if making something more than once.  it also helps when you are working from a layout.  working on perf usually means you have to have a pretty good idea of what is going on, and you cant make a mistake.  I am in the middle of building a PT 80.  i would kill my self before attempting to make one of thse on perf.

[seventeenth harmonic]

from your first post (forgot to order developer), I'd just like to add that you can leave the board for quite a long time in between exposing and developing without any damage as long as you keep it in the dark. I usually just slide them back in the original package that they came in after I expose them, and have left them this way for days before developing with no ill effect.

and in addition, in place of developer, go buy a bottle of Gillet's Lye (pure sodium hydroxide) and mix it with water at something around 8 grams per litre (check that number, haven't mixed any up for quite a while) and it make a really cheap developing solution (one bottle of lye for about $4 will last you the rest of your life).


gary

[puretube]

It worked with an inkjet?

You can use normal transparencies with an inkjet if you cover the transpareny with a sheet of tracing/baking paper when developing.  This makes it opaque enough to give good, consistent results.

Nice one Brian!  I'm one of those few who enjoy making PCBs too.  

"when developing" ? , or rather "when exposing" ?


b.t.w.: 8g/l is OK...

[Brian Marshall]

EXPOSING.... sorry my bad

[gez]

Er...exposing.  Do I have to stay behind and write lines again?!  :oops:

[Brian Marshall]

oops that wasnt me.... i see mistakes i just assume they are mine. :roll:

[gez]

Brian, it's ok have this one on me!  

[puretube]

err, just to prevent first-timers from throwing papers into the sauce and getting shaded etches...

[puretube]

Er...exposing.  Do I have to stay behind and write lines again?!  :oops:

...no: I caughtcha, so I owe You a beer...  

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

I don't suppose anyone would let that developer get on their skin... but, just in case: it is corrosive :shock:  :!:
And if you DO get it on you, don't bother looking for acid to neutarlise it, use LOTS of water STRAIGHT AWAY. I've had caustic soda on me more than twice (not from making boards, though).

[smoguzbenjamin]

I hate to open up old discussions but I like perf & dislike PCBs for the very reason that I only make stuff once :mrgreen:

[jsleep]

My experiences with Ever-Muse Photo Positive have been very good.  Much better than PNP in many ways.  It's much more expensive and takes longer to do, but sometimes  worth it.

Need Bright lights and don't let them sit around and be careful with them after exposure/before etching, the etch-resist scratches off pretty easily (much more easily than toner).

JD