blender pens for PCBs?

[PB Wilson]

I picked up an Eberhard Faber 311 colorless blender marker to transfer lazer copies of circuits to copper boards.

I cleaned the board, taped the paper to the board and "colored" the marker over the back of the circuit. I wasn't sure what would happen next, but the traces and pads didn't fully transfer to the copper. A hazy outline of the circuit was transfered, but most of the circuit was still on the paper. When I went over the paper again with the blender marker it only made the traces and pads bleed and run into each other.

I did a web search for blender pens and markers and a few told of burnishing the paper to transfer the image. I guess I'll try this next, but has anyone had any luck with this technique?

[gez]

I haven't tried the method you outline, but I should imagine how well an image is transfered depends upon the paper used.

Did you use coated paper? (glossy stuff).  This usually works better with laser transfer from paper.

[PB Wilson]

I'm not certain that glossy coated paper would work. The idea is to use the marker to soak through the paper and release the toner onto the copper. A coated paper wouldn't seem to allow the marker to soak through very well. I may be wrong though.

[gez]

I recon glossy paper will work because it works with acetone/nail polish remover.  The paper is placed on the board, image-side down, and acetone dabbed on with cotton wool or a brush until the paper is soaked.  Leave to dry then soak in warm water for 5-10 minutes to remove.

Using normal paper results in only partial transfer of the image or bits of paper stick to the board (usually both), but coated paper has a clay coating and the image transfers more easily.  If your pen doesn't work try acetone (with coated paper)  

I don't own a laser printer, but I've done this with photocopies.  Unfortunately it's hit or miss as to whether the local printer uses the right paper in their copier, so I stick with photoboard.

[Tony Forestiere]

Just finished etching Tonepad's "El Griton", a TS clone, using the toner transfer/label backing sheet method. Once I got the pre-heat/ironing timing down (four tries!), it worked beautifully.
BTW, most copier and laser printer toner is a mix of polyester resin (finely pulverized plastic) and salicyclic acid (a wetting agent). The polymer is the pigment and the acid allows the toner to melt to the  transfer media in a smooth, uniform method. Because toner is a melted plastic, acetone will not easily remove mistakes from PCBs. Call around some copier repair shops and see if they use "Sel-Solve" or "D-Ink", and would be willing to sell or let you test a small bottle of the "Pink Stuff". (Take your own container!) With this stuff, mess ups will wipe off of your PCB with no elbow grease needed. It will leave a slight oily residue that comes off with alcohol or acetone.

[Tony Forestiere]

Just finished etching Tonepad's "El Griton", a TS clone, using the toner transfer/label backing sheet method. Once I got the pre-heat/ironing timing down (four tries!), it worked beautifully.
BTW, most copier and laser printer toner is a mix of polyester resin (finely pulverized plastic) and salicyclic acid (a wetting agent). The polymer is the pigment and the acid allows the toner to melt to the transfer media in a smooth, uniform method. Because toner is a melted plastic, acetone will not easily remove mistakes from PCBs. Call around some copier repair shops and see if they use "Sel-Solve" or "D-Ink", and would be willing to sell or let you test a small bottle of the "Pink Stuff". (Take your own container!)  With this stuff, mess ups will wipe off of your PCB with no elbow grease needed. It will leave a slight oily residue that comes off with alcohol or acetone.
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[PB Wilson]

Thanks guys. I'll give it a another shot soon.