Fender PBASS String Height?

[Arn C.]

Anyone know where I can get some info to set the string height on a Pbass or at least a starting point, then I can go from there.  

I shielded the cavity to help with the noise, it definately helped a bit but still some noise(static), no pickguard.

Thanks!
Arn C.

[D Wagner]

Anyone know where I can get some info to set the string height on a Pbass or at least a starting point, then I can go from there.  

I shielded the cavity to help with the noise, it definately helped a bit but still some noise(static), no pickguard.

Thanks!
Arn C.

Arn,

I've had a few Fender basses (P bass and Tele basses), and when I got them set up professionally, the string height was about 1/8" at the 20th fret.  While they were not stock by any means, I had no noticeable buzz or hum from either pickup combination.

Try looking for a loose wire in the pickups themselves.

Derek

[Fret Wire]

Here's Fender' bass setup tips:
http://www.mrgearhead.com/faq/basssetup.html

Do you mean that the bass doesn't have a pickguard? Or it's still off. If so, it will quiet down when in place. For a shielding job to be effective, the pickguard has to be shielded too. Go to a craft store like Michael's, where they sell copper foil sheets. Disassemble the pickguard completely, clean and spray with 3M adhesive. Press the sheet on, and when it dries, use an exacto to cut out the control and screw holes. Easy and fast. Paint for the cavities, and copper foil for the pickguard. Make sure that the paint or foil in the cavity comes up to the pickguard screw holes, so it will make contact with the foil on the pickguard when you install it. It also helps with static noise from hands on the guard.

[bwanasonic]

Go to a craft store like Michael's, where they sell copper foil sheets.

Heavy-Duty Aluminum foil and Rubber Cement also work quite well. There is a good pictorial on the topic here:

http://www.guitarnuts.com/wiring/index.php

Kerry M

[Fret Wire]

As long as you use one continuous sheet for the pickguard. Otherwise, you have to tack-solder each piece together. For cavities, tape has less resistance than paint, but if you don't use copper tape with the conductive adhesive, you have to tack solder the pieces together. The copper sheets I use are thicker than aluminum foil, which is not too solder friendly.

After doing so many, I settled on paint for the cavities, and sheet copper for pickguards and control plates. A little more money, but far less effort, far better results. Either way you do it, don't forget to tie the cavity to the guard, so you get max shield and grounding effect.

[Arn C.]

Thanks for the tips and info guys!

I think I got the string height all worked out.  I did have to shim the neck where it attaches to the body.  There seems to be a problem with the adjuster in the neck.  I can only go one way and not the other.  So, that is why I used a shim in the neck.  It works fine!

As far as the shielding goes.  I did shield the control cavity with one sided sticky aluminum and put my controls and jack through the aluminum when I reattached them, I have same continuity no matter where I do a resistance checks:  bridge to cavity foil, jack to pots, everywhere is good.
This particular bass does not have a pickguard, the pots come through the wood.   I also changed the jack and cleaned the pots.  I didn't shield the cavity cover but I will !!!!
  There is still a tiny bit of static crackle when touching the strings or bridge.
I do believe it must be the pickups themselves.   How can I check them to find out if they are the culprits?  
Thanks!
Arn C.

[Lonestarjohnny]

Stew/Mac sells Shielding paint, water based also, and it does a great job shielding the instrument.
JD