pedalboard patchbay wiring (pic)

[chokeyou]

Hey I think I labelled this right and everything, just thought id run it by you guys before i bought my parts...I'm hoping this will work correctly.

Basically what I want to do is have a little patch bay enabling me to wire up a kill switch that takes all my effects out of the loop in an instant if ever needed (feedback or whatever) and as an added plus it'll provide me with a good go-to place for hooking up my cables in the event I'm in a hurry to set up my gear. The kill switch should turn off the straight through bit of the patch bay and connect the bottom 2 jacks to each other and the top 2 jacks to each other...cutting all pedals out of my before amp line and my fx loop line. The LED is intended to be an indicator saying when the effects are accesible, not killed...so the LED will be on most of the time.

I was also wondering what a good value for my LED resistor (i think its a resistor...im a huge noob so bear with me) would be to get a nice bright but not blinding LED...also what indicators on the resistor (?) tell which side is positive.

I'm thinking of taking on the beginner's boost project that this forum offers and use it as an educational platform to continue building off of...I'm basically looking to do a few distortions and random bits here and there to set my tone and effects apart from everyone elses.

thanks

[MartyMart]

Hi Chokeyou,
looks about right to me, positive side of the LED is the smaller chunk of metal that you can see inside the LED connected to one leg, bigger side of metal is negative.
For a standard 3mm LED 1.2k will be very bright and 2k upwards will give less bright results.
For a beginner project the `'tube reamer'  at www.runoffgroove.com is great, sounds fantastic.
Cheers,
Marty.

[Mike Burgundy]

it's a working solution, although you do get a few possible problems. If in bypass, the effects' inputs are open (not grounded) and succeptible to all kind of noise pickup - which then gets superimposed on your signal since the effect outs are still connected.
You might want to consider using TWO 3PDT's, and switch the pre-effects and effects loop separately. That way you can make em TrueBypass (both ins and outs are completely taken out of the loop) for negligible signal loss and interference. You also get a more versatile device. Put both switches close enough and you can also control the both at once if so desired.

[chokeyou]

so you propose i do this: